ScarredKnightfan Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Except for the engine issues, this is AWESOME you not only found it, but ended up buying it. So cool to have that piece of family history ... congrats! Cort > www.oldcarsstronghearts.com pigValve.paceMaker.cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (needs new owner) "This can't be the end" __ Bertie Higgins __ 'Key Largo' 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 (edited) The aluminum foil method is a good one. I've never tried it with Coke though; probably enough acid in the Coke to speed up the process. I know that this not Buick related but here's an example of what a pad of aluminum foil and some water will do to clean up surface rust. This is a Schwinn Typhoon that I restored. Repainted - yes; rechromed - no, just an aluminum foil pad and lots of elbow grease. The dents were removed from the fender with a small English wheel. Edited May 30, 2016 by RivNut (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Winistoerfer Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 That turned out really nice! With coke it takes almost no elbow grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 The bike looks so nice, a few weeks ago,YOU couldn't even spell RESTORER, now you are one. I have cleaned chrome too, but you will need to keep an eye on the work, it is prone to spot rust again, but it is controllable. IMO Keep up the tasks of bringing the Buick back to life. There is a ton of good info bits & pieces on this site. Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Might I add that a nice coating of wax on the freshly cleaned and dried chrome will help prevent oxidation from occuring so quickly 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Winistoerfer Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 First pass on the front seat with a carpet cleaner. Water only. I'm leary of using detergent on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 gonna clean up nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Winistoerfer Posted June 3, 2016 Share Posted June 3, 2016 Filled all cylinders up. All drained through the first hour but the bad one. Been soaking a week, no movement. Thinking about trying something called metal rescue. Anyone ever try it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted June 4, 2016 Share Posted June 4, 2016 Go by Harbor Freight and pick know up a quarter of Evap-O-Rust and give that a try. Sometimes the acid in a can of Coke with eat through rust as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Winistoerfer Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Many thanks to Ben for the intake manifold. Much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim Winistoerfer Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 After soaking for 24 hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Looks like good progress is being made! Does it turn over now? Going to your comment about the weight the head, when I brought mine into the machine shop, the machinist said that he gets engine blocks in that are much lighter than the head from my '41! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 Mine took 2 1/2 weeks to finally get broken free. Its better then the alternatives because beating a frozen piston out it not easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 You will get more leverage to turn the engine with a 12 inch tool between the block and ring gear teeth than a 12 foot tool on the front of the crankshaft. For stubborn engines I get some threaded rod the same size as the head bolts and a 1/4 inch plate and some nuts and use the plate and nuts to push some wood blocks down on the piston. If that does not work or there are multiple frozen pistons, I install the metal plate over a head gasket over the cylinder after filling the cylinder with transmission fluid. Next drill and tap for a grease fitting over the piston an pump grease in. (hand grease gun = 6,000 psi). That may not move the piston, but will often force some fluid past the piston. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 If the piston is at the BOTTOM or very TOP of the stroke, the method of pushing the piston down, won't work. Most likely that won't occur, but something to think about. Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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