1940TORPEDO Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) I am wanting to strip the paint off my taillight stand/bracket. It is pot metal so I'm guessing I don't want to sand blast it. What is the best was to strip the paint without hurting the metal? I'm a fair mechanic but when it comes to body and paint work I'm afraid I am lacking. Thanks, Allen Edited April 27, 2016 by 1940TORPEDO ggg gg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 We would do it in our glass bead cabinet. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940TORPEDO Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 4 minutes ago, Restorer32 said: We would do it in our glass bead cabinet. Thanks, that's kinda what I figured. I've been looking at them on harbor freights website this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 You can buy glass beads from McMaster-Carr in 50 pound buckets in various grits. We couldn't live without our bead cabinet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
46 woodie Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Why not use good old paint remover. I can understand not wanting to sandblast it, but if you can find a shop that does bead blasting, I agree that would be the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940TORPEDO Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 3 minutes ago, 46 woodie said: Why not use good old paint remover. I can understand not wanting to sandblast it, but if you can find a shop that does bead blasting, I agree that would be the way. I could do that as I have a few cans. Reading the cautions on the back made me wonder. It gave many cautions concerning objects that it could be applied to. If it was steel or some other ferrous metal I'd have no objections and dive right in but with being pot metal I'm guess I'm being overly cautious. I've always wanted a blast cabinet, now I have one more reason to get one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 We have certainly gotten our money's worth from our Harbor Freight cabinet. We just hook up a shop vac for the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I wouldn't use paint stripper (caustic) on pot metal. It is too risky. I think it might be hard to get it all out of the pores in the "metal". Remember it has zinc in it, which corrodes easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walt G Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Rather then glass beads I use aluminum oxide in my blast cabinet, gives a very fine clean surface to the metal . Just make sure you get all traces of the fine powder left in crevices out - take outside and blow off with an air hose. Make sure you don't get any in your eyes blowing it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940TORPEDO Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 thanks everyone, excellent advice as always. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I like the orange citrus paint remover from places like Lowes. It won't burn you and works well. It is about 20 bucks a quart and I always have some on the shelf. They make a neutralizer but soap and water works fine. Bernie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I don't think you would have a problem even sandblasting it if your media wasn't too coarse. Worn sand would work great. You want a somewhat rough surface for the primer to adhere to. I would wash with water from a garden hose with some pressure rather than just blow the dust off as it cleans much better. You don't get the fine dust residue out with just air pressure. Just what I would do. I'm sure there are many methods that will garner similar results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 I'm dealing with some pot metal parts now, I'd be scared to sandblast, and even media (black diamond etc.) is very aggressive. Pot metal was a cheap mixture of metals, low melting point (700 degrees or so) thus easy to work and cast...with no thought to those of us, 50 or 80 years later, wanting to restore. I've recently been working on a mid-30's car, some pot metal parts, and if you don't hold your mouth right or your tongue in your cheek at the correct angle, it'll fracture. The most gentle tap can lead to numerous exclamations regarding Hades, family trees, and other cursed items. Beadblast gently. Sandblast no. Paint remover, scotch brite, patience, yes..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auburnseeker Posted April 28, 2016 Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) This looks like a 40's piece to me. I know the stuff from the 60's fender extensions in particular are very tough. This piece doesn't look real fragile like the 30's parts you are referring to. Especially those door handles and hood ornaments from that time period that literally disintegrated new in the box. I guess it's all in technique and care. 2 guys can use the same materials and method. One will destroy the piece the other will make it look like new. Edited April 28, 2016 by auburnseeker (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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