ANOTHER OIL QUESTION ??

[414TATA]

Yes, here we go again.  I did try to do a search but i guess it's me.  can't bring up any oil subject by using the word  "OIL"

 

 I have been using Non-detergent 30 W (Auto Zone brand).  

Non-detergent motor oil is no longer sold in California.  (or so I am told)

My question is:  what's a good replacement?  

My engine is original with 31K miles.  I have not used detergent oil in the past.   Will the use of detergent oil create a problem?

 Also like to get some feed back on 15-40 W detergent as a replacement.

The climate here is hot in the summer and mild in the winter.

 

Last question:  Are we still able to preview post?   I can't find that either.  

 

Thanks for the help.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Can you get Shell Rotella? It is a non-detergent oil.

 

Cheers, Dave

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Dave, We use Shell Rotella oil in our Caterpillar powered Kenworth trucks and I believe it is a detergent oil. I don't think switching to detergent oil will hurt anything on a 31000 mile engine, especially if it has had oil changed regularly. We use 15/40 Classic Motor Oil that we buy from Hemmings in our 38 Buick, it has a high zinc content and is blended for our old cars.

[Vila]

You are going to hear as many oil recommendation on oil as there are people on the forum but the choice is ultimately your decision.

 

My personal opinion is most modern oil with the correct weight and a high zinc content is most likely better than any oil they sold back when your car was built.  I personally like multigrade detergent oil with high zinc since it has a lower viscosity at startup temperature then single grade oil and allows for better oil flow until the engine warms up and better wear characteristics .  For example:  Once the engine is warmed up 10W40 or 15W40 should have nearly the same viscosity as straight 40 weight oil depending on the specific brand you use, and the same with 30 weight oils.  Why didn't the oil companies make multigrade oil back in the 1940s, because they did not know how to manufacture it.  It they knew, they would have used it.

 

I have used detergent oil in my 1933 Chevrolet for over 40 years with no problems, but if you do decide to switch to a detergent oil I would recommend the following.

 

Remove the oil pan, valve cover and pushrod cover and totally clean out any gunk that has collected in those areas.  My 33 Chevrolet had 1/2 inch of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan when i took the oil pan off 40 + years ago.  It is my understanding the detergent oil will loosen the sludge, and you don't want that running through your engine.

 

Edited April 5, 2016 by Vila (see edit history)

[27donb]

Restoration Supply Company sells non detergent oil, page 21 of their free PDF catalog.

 

http://www.restorationstuff.com/catalog.html

 

No affiliation, but have purchased from them in the past.

[DonMicheletti]

I live near San Francisco. I just saw a non detergent 30 wt oil at an Ace hardware store - of all places.

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

On the 41 Buick I believe the oil pick up is the floating type which just gets the oil from the top of the oil level, the sludge etc sinks to the bottom. We took our oil pan off and cleaned out the sludge but I don't know if it was really necessary. I think if you change oil every 1000 miles it will always have acid free oil to the bearings. It takes most of us with an old Buick quite a while to get a thousand miles on them so it shouldn't a big deal. When I was a kid I used reclaimed oil from Pep Boys in these old cars with no problems. If the old car had real low oil pressure we just added STP and thought we darn near rebuilt it.

[Guest jg_105]

While I am very new to this forum, and owning an old car,  I did post very similar questions. 

I took the Pan off, and cleaned the sludge,  took the valve cover off cleaned that,  and blew out all the oil lines.

I put a new filter in as well.

 

I live in the Niagara Region of Ontario -  Even in the summer we get cooler early mornings and very warm days.... so after rechearching and calling my oil reps (castrol and Shell/Quaker state - I work at a shop)  I decided to go with Castrol 5w30 conventional oil with a ZINC replacement additive.  

 

I do have an oil pressure guage (assuming it works....)  and will monitor closely.  

 

I did find in the trunk the original owners manual -   which says in Cold weather 10w oil  and in the warmer weather 20w.

[Brian_Heil]

I'm no straight 8 expert but I do remember reading and seeing a post here about very small oil screens somewhere in the Buick 8 head and that these like to plug.  So agree with pulling pan, covers etc to inspect for sludge, but need check or remove these screens in the head too.  They were about as big as a pencil eraser if I remember correctly.

 

Somebody chime in here on these.  Thx.

[DonMicheletti]

The screen, if it is still there, is behind the oil line fitting in the head. You have to take the fitting out to gain access to the screen.

[Joseph P. Indusi]

For clarification, the oil line Don is referring to runs from the oil filter to the front of the cylinder head on the passenger side of the engine.

Joe

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

I just now see that oil line. My car has no filter so the line comes from the front of the block up to the head on the passenger side. We just got back home in our car about 20 minutes ago so its to hot to undo the fitting and see if there is a screen in it. Maybe tomorrow I will take a look.