27donb Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 What finish should the aluminum trim pieces on the floor boards have? Mine appear to be....green? Also the shift lever / emergency brake lever trim plate...green? As mine appears to be? Or black? I seem to remember seeing pictures somewhere of a restored 24-45, and the floor trim was silver aluminum finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 The shift tower surround plate was Black baked enamel. The floorboard trim moulding was just plain (as in not finished) extruded aluminum. When my Dad did some replacing of this moulding on the '16 D-45 that I have now back in 1963, he found out some of the floorboard and running board trim was identical to kitchen countertop moulding. He was able to replace all of the trim with new materialthat he got from a local flooring and tile shop. That was 1963 and that material was not available for decades. I think Restoration Supply is stocking some of this style of moulding now. Hope this has been of some help for you. Terry WiegandSouth Hutchinson, Kansas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 (edited) I would think the aluminum T molding trim would clean up pretty easily with a scotch brite pad. You could clear it with a satin or just leave it. It would not be mirror polished. These are non anodized. You could keep them clean with Eagle 1 Never Dull or some chrome cleaning wadding cotton and that would keep the shine down. Hugh Edited March 3, 2016 by gr8success (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Here yo can see that one of them are aluminum,and probebly not painted.Leif in Sweden. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 The shift tower surround plate was Black baked enamel. The floorboard trim moulding was just plain (as in not finished) extruded aluminum. When my Dad did some replacing of this moulding on the '16 D-45 that I have now back in 1963, he found out some of the floorboard and running board trim was identical to kitchen countertop moulding. He was able to replace all of the trim with new materialthat he got from a local flooring and tile shop. That was 1963 and that material was not available for decades. I think Restoration Supply is stocking some of this style of moulding now. Hope this has been of some help for you. Terry WiegandSouth Hutchinson, Kansas That is the information I needed, thanks Terry. I would think the aluminum T molding trim would clean up pretty easily with a scotch brite pad. You could clear it with a satin or just leave it. It would not be mirror polished. These are non anodized. You could keep them clean with Eagle 1 Never Dull or some chrome cleaning wadding cotton and that would keep the shine down. Hugh I tried some acetone with a scotchbrite pad tonight and it took the paint off, and gave the trim a decent look and finish. Good idea with the scotch brite pad, it made quick work of it! I use some never dull to finish it off. Thanks Hugh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 How is the aluminum trim fastened to the floorboards ? My 1925-45 is missing all of the floorboards & trim pictured above, so eventually I will need to fabricate these parts. KevinBCA # 47712 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 How is the aluminum trim fastened to the floorboards ? My 1925-45 is missing all of the floorboards & trim pictured above, so eventually I will need to fabricate these parts. KevinBCA # 47712 The trim cross section looks like a "T" channel, and is fastened to the edges with screws. I will take some pictures to show and post them over the weekend, unless someone else beats me to it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Kevin, This is a work in progress, but perhaps this will save you some time. I am trying to put together how to do floorboards. I am still several months away from finishing this due to work on the car in other areas. Many thanks to Leif Holmberg and Larry DiBarry for a lot of this information. Buick used linoleum on floor and toe board for 1922-1927Original boards were scrap wood (Oak, Pine, etc,). Nothing hard to find. They screwed 3 tongue and groove (T&G) boards together with 2 scrap boards underneath for the main section of floor. Would have glued all this together too. (I am working on drawings that I can post for the floor boards for a 25-25) Search for “ ¾” T shaped aluminum hatch trim molding. (¾” x ¾”) or (¾” wide by 5/8 tall). Restoration supply also has a nice trim. (anodized is good especially if you can get satin finish) – You will need 13 feet for a 25-25. It will need to be shipped as 3 pieces of 6’ length to save on shipping. T shaped is nice because it covers the edge of the floor board linoleum and the narrow side linoleum pieces.Original aluminum was non anodized. You can keep it looking nice with a scotch brite pad, and later never dull wadding. You can also spray with a clear satin finish, or use a paste wax on it to keep oxidation away. The trim was nailed on originally, but you can screw these on as well. The T shape will hide the screw head, but use a pan head screw or countersink. Here are some options for T mold. http://www.tapeease.com/aluminum%20t-moldings.htmhttp://www.teardroptrailers.net/8_foot_T_shaped_aluminum_p/al-t.htm non anodized $38 / 16foot http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15063 $50 ea, http://tacomarine.com/product/A50-0375/5-8-x-3-4-Aluminum-T-Hatch-Trim Can’t locate a person to shiphttp://www.piersupply.com/Item/A50-0375VEL12 $36/12’ +ship http://www.bargainboatparts.com/p-98443-aluminum-tee-trim.aspx $51/12’ + shipSeveral have used “restoration supply” or www.restorationstuff.com. Linoleum was attached to the floor on either side of the floor boards using a few rounded head brass tacks and copper split rivets on the metal toe blocks. Depending on the year, the linoleum came in several colors. Less detail for the floor board description, but for running boards it states:1923 parts book scans show they used brown linoleum on the 4 cyl running board mat, and grey, gray, and maroon on the 6 cylinder model.1924 4 cyl parts book calls out gray for the running board mats, and grey, gray, and maroon on the 6 cylinder model.1925 Standard was gray.WWW.Battleshiplinoleum.com carries 4 colors – Gray, brown, green, black. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbbuick22 Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 The maroon linoleum was only used on the 22-24 models 54 and 55, and possibly 39. 25 models 54 and 55 body color was Brewster green, running board color ?? JB 22-6-55 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Model 54 and 55 for 1925 was Sagebrush Green The second photo is of a 1924-45 that shows up at Hershey every year decked out like a Sport Touring painted in 1925 Sagebrush Green Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 (edited) The aluminium T-trim are nailed on the floor board.Leif in Sweden Edited March 5, 2016 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 As previously determined, the screws shown on mine are incorrect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 When I did my floorboards I used screws as it was much more predictable for placement. Just my preference. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 When I did my floorboards I used screws as it was much more predictable for placement. Just my preference. And I think I will leave mine as well, they are secure and are not easily seen without removal of the floors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 This is the floor trim that I have for my 1925-45. The shift tower surround looks the same as pictured above except it has an additional 3 rivets that fastened a felt dust seal to the bottom side. Unfortunately it will not fit over the shift tower with the hand brake lever installed. The aluminum trim piece with larger hole was still attached to the steering column tube and in good condition. The 3 door sill trim plates, or scuff plates, might have actually been original to this car - i can't always be sure since the car was a real basket case. Part numbers 167564 & 167567 match the Buick Parts book for scuff plates. These aluminum plates have blisters from exposure to moisture for an extended period of time. Has anyone else had to replace these scuff plates ? Bob's carries these scuff plates for later models, but unfortunately they are not the same. KevinBCA # 47712 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Kevin: Your sill scuff plates look to be in as good a shape as my friends 1924-45 which was not out in the weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Kevin, about 35 years ago I had new sill plates made using a photo etching/engraving process on zinc plates. At that time I had to draw out on white art paper using black ink the pattern of the sill plates. The zinc plates are thicker than the original aluminium. I am sure that with todays computer technology that the process could be much easier. Look for a shop that does that type of work in your area and see what they can do. I am certainly happy with mine. You could probably include the part number as well. I never did with mine, they were in much the same condition as yours. Leon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 Kevin, The handbrake lever or the B shaped plate may not be the correct one for the car. Something does not seem to line up. I know your B plate has 3 extra rivets than the parts book drawing and Dons photo of the B plate on the running board. Can you provide a few dimensions from your B plate. Maybe Don can compare to his. Can you provide a photo of the side view of the hand brake? Does it match the profile of the parts book hand brake? Last possibility is that the transmission itself is different. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Leonthose zink scuff plates look real nice, and appear to be holding up well too. The original process probably involved silk screening a mask / resist on the aluminum, then etching using acid. I should research this a little more. You are right, today's technology makes it easier to copy/ paste the Buick logo and surround it with a diamond pattern using a computer. Larrythose are great photos of your friend's 1924-45. In the second photo, at the left end of the scuff plate, is that a black rubber bumper/ wear pad to cushion the lower corner of the rear door ? How many original miles does that -45 have ? I know why you are holding out for a complete original car like this one. My car is a 30+ year project and still not complete. HughI finally figured out the hand brake lever. My rechromed lever looks like a 1927. below are additional photos of mine plus a 1927 Master engine-transmission photo from craigslist to compare. The 1927 lever pawl engages correctly to the ratchet for the full range of motion, so should be functional, but not with the shift tower surround. I will try to get dimensions for that surround plate. anyone have a photo of a 1927 tower surround plate ? Untill I get my hands on a 1925 master parts car, this car will remain a mixture of 1924-1925-1926-1927-1928 parts. It is still rolling on 1926 standard wheels & axles. And thanks for the links above for T alum molding. I save all this information until I can finish areas in work and move on to others. Kevin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Kevin, You sent me this eBay link since I am looking for a 1925 standard handbrake. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/266336-wtb-1925-buick-hand-brake-lever/page-2?hl=handbrakeLeif identified this handbrake as a 1924 6 cylinder handbrake. I did not buy it because it is not correct for my car. But this could be correct for your car. 1925 Master had 2 levers. Maybe this one will work for you. This is his relisted posting. Hughhttp://www.ebay.com/itm/1920s-era-Emergency-Brake-Handle-Old-Skool-Hot-Rod-SCTA-Trog-Speedster-/121903908535?vxp=mtr Edited March 9, 2016 by gr8success (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 I am not trying to be a wise-guy on here, but, there is something that needs to be corrected in the interest of all concerned. There are no such models in the Buick lineup for 1924 as a Standard or Master. The Standard and Master models were introduced for the 1925 cars. As I said this needs to be clarified so that someone not really familiar with Buicks of this era will not start looking for something in the way of parts that simply do not exist. The 1924 6-Cylinder Buicks were out there all by their lonesome. 1924 was a watershed year for Buick Sixes with the removable cylinder head, four wheel brakes, nickeled radiator shell, and all. To have two separate lines would have been more than the factory could have gotten ready for in the time allotted for new model introduction. Terry WiegandSouth Hutchinson, Kansas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 I am not trying to be a wise-guy on here, but, there is something that needs to be corrected in the interest of all concerned. There are no such models in the Buick lineup for 1924 as a Standard or Master. The Standard and Master models were introduced for the 1925 cars. As I said this needs to be clarified so that someone not really familiar with Buicks of this era will not start looking for something in the way of parts that simply do not exist. The 1924 6-Cylinder Buicks were out there all by their lonesome. 1924 was a watershed year for Buick Sixes with the removable cylinder head, four wheel brakes, nickeled radiator shell, and all. To have two separate lines would have been more than the factory could have gotten ready for in the time allotted for new model introduction. Terry WiegandSouth Hutchinson, Kansas Terry, Thank you! I have heard, seen advertised, and in print, "1924 Buick Master Six" and after a period of time, I just gave up trying to right the inaccuracy of those claiming that's what they had in car or part form. I have also tried contacting people about mis-representing their 1926 Standard car for sale as "Master Six". There was even a yellow and black 27-54CC Convertible Coupe for sale like the car I have, advertised as "1927 Buick Roadster". Oh boy...! You are a wise man, not a "wise guy" by bringing this point up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Terry, Good call. I made a few corrections on my end. Sorry. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 anyone have a photo of a 1927 tower surround plate ? Kevin Here is the plate from my 1927 Master on the left, and the installed 1924 on the right. The second picture is the 27 on top of the 24. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 For the record. This is what a 25-45 looks like. Leon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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