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1924 Model 45 Touring Floorboards


27donb

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What finish should the aluminum trim pieces on the floor boards have?

 

Mine appear to be....green?

 

Also the shift lever / emergency brake lever trim plate...green?  As mine appears to be?  Or black?

 

I seem to remember seeing pictures somewhere of a restored 24-45, and the floor trim was silver aluminum finish.

 

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The shift tower surround plate was Black baked enamel.  The floorboard trim moulding was just plain (as in not finished) extruded aluminum.  When my Dad did some replacing of this moulding on the '16 D-45 that I have now back in 1963, he found out some of the floorboard and running board trim was identical to kitchen countertop moulding.  He was able to replace all of the trim with new material

that he got from a local flooring and tile shop.  That was 1963 and that material was not available for decades.  I think Restoration Supply is stocking some of this style of moulding now.  Hope this has been of some help for you.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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I would think the aluminum T molding trim would clean up pretty easily with a scotch brite pad.   You could clear it with a satin or just  leave it.  It would not be mirror polished.   These are non anodized.  You could keep them clean with Eagle 1 Never Dull or some chrome cleaning wadding cotton and that would keep the shine down. 

 

Hugh

Edited by gr8success (see edit history)
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The shift tower surround plate was Black baked enamel.  The floorboard trim moulding was just plain (as in not finished) extruded aluminum.  When my Dad did some replacing of this moulding on the '16 D-45 that I have now back in 1963, he found out some of the floorboard and running board trim was identical to kitchen countertop moulding.  He was able to replace all of the trim with new material

that he got from a local flooring and tile shop.  That was 1963 and that material was not available for decades.  I think Restoration Supply is stocking some of this style of moulding now.  Hope this has been of some help for you.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

 

That is the information I needed, thanks Terry.

 

 

I would think the aluminum T molding trim would clean up pretty easily with a scotch brite pad.   You could clear it with a satin or just  leave it.  It would not be mirror polished.   These are non anodized.  You could keep them clean with Eagle 1 Never Dull or some chrome cleaning wadding cotton and that would keep the shine down. 

 

Hugh

 

I tried some acetone with a scotchbrite pad tonight and it took the paint off, and gave the trim a decent look and finish.  Good idea with the scotch brite pad, it made quick work of it!  I use some never dull to finish it off.

 

Thanks Hugh!

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How is the aluminum trim fastened to the floorboards ?  My 1925-45 is missing all of the floorboards & trim pictured above, so eventually I will need to fabricate these parts.

 

Kevin

BCA # 47712

 

The trim cross section looks like a "T" channel, and is fastened to the edges with screws.

 

I will take some pictures to show and post them over the weekend, unless someone else beats me to it!

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Kevin,

 

This is a work in progress, but perhaps this will save you some time.  I am trying to put together how to do floorboards.  I am still several months away from finishing this due to work on the car in other areas.  Many thanks to Leif Holmberg and Larry DiBarry for a lot of this information.

 

Buick used linoleum on floor and toe board for 1922-1927

Original boards were scrap wood (Oak, Pine, etc,).  Nothing hard to find.  They screwed 3 tongue and groove (T&G) boards together with 2 scrap boards underneath for the main section of floor.  Would have glued all this together too.   (I am working on drawings that I can post for the floor boards for a 25-25)

 

Search for “ ¾” T shaped aluminum hatch trim molding. (¾” x ¾”) or (¾” wide by 5/8 tall).  Restoration supply also has a nice trim. (anodized is good especially if you can get satin finish) – You will need 13 feet for a 25-25.  It will need to be shipped as 3 pieces of 6’ length to save on shipping.  T shaped is nice because it covers the edge of the floor board linoleum and the narrow side linoleum pieces.

Original aluminum was non anodized.  You can keep it looking nice with a scotch brite pad, and later never dull wadding.  You can also spray with a clear satin finish, or use a paste wax on it to keep oxidation away.  The trim was nailed on originally, but you can screw these on as well.  The T shape will hide the screw head, but use a pan head screw or countersink.    

Here are some options for T mold.

http://www.tapeease.com/aluminum%20t-moldings.htm

http://www.teardroptrailers.net/8_foot_T_shaped_aluminum_p/al-t.htm                    non anodized $38 / 16foot

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=15063                         $50 ea,  

http://tacomarine.com/product/A50-0375/5-8-x-3-4-Aluminum-T-Hatch-Trim    Can’t locate a person to ship

http://www.piersupply.com/Item/A50-0375VEL12          $36/12’ +ship 

http://www.bargainboatparts.com/p-98443-aluminum-tee-trim.aspx   $51/12’ + ship

Several have used “restoration supply” or www.restorationstuff.com.

 

Linoleum was attached to the floor on either side of the floor boards using a few rounded head brass tacks and copper split rivets on the metal toe blocks.   

Depending on the year, the linoleum came in several colors.  Less detail for the floor board description, but for running boards it states:

1923 parts book scans show they used brown linoleum on the 4 cyl running board mat, and grey, gray, and maroon on the 6 cylinder model.

1924 4 cyl parts book calls out gray for the running board mats, and grey, gray, and maroon on the 6 cylinder model.

1925 Standard was gray.

WWW.Battleshiplinoleum.com carries 4 colors – Gray, brown, green, black.

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When I did my floorboards I used screws as it was much more predictable for placement. Just my preference.

 

And I think I will leave mine as well, they are secure and are not easily seen without removal of the floors.

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This is the floor trim that I have for my 1925-45.  The shift tower surround looks the same as pictured above except it has an additional 3 rivets that fastened a felt dust seal to the bottom side. Unfortunately it will not fit over the shift tower with the hand brake lever installed.  The aluminum trim piece with larger hole was still attached to the steering column tube and in good condition. The 3 door sill trim plates, or scuff plates, might have actually been original to this car - i can't always be sure since the car was a real basket case. Part numbers 167564 & 167567 match the Buick Parts book for scuff plates. These aluminum plates have blisters from exposure to moisture for an extended period of time.  Has anyone else had to replace these scuff plates ?    Bob's carries these scuff plates for later models, but unfortunately they are not the same. 

 

Kevin
BCA # 47712

 

 

 

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Kevin,  about 35 years ago I had new sill plates made using a photo etching/engraving process on zinc plates.  At that time I had to draw out on white art paper using black ink the pattern of the sill plates.  The zinc plates are thicker than  the original aluminium.  I am sure that with todays computer technology  that the process could be much easier.  Look for a shop that does that type of work in your area and see what they can do.  I am certainly happy with mine.  You could probably include the part number as well.  I never did with mine,  they were in much the same condition as  yours.  Leon

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Kevin,

The handbrake lever or the B shaped plate may not be the correct one for the car. Something does not seem to line up. I know your B plate has 3 extra rivets than the parts book drawing and Dons photo of the B plate on the running board. Can you provide a few dimensions from your B plate. Maybe Don can compare to his. Can you provide a photo of the side view of the hand brake? Does it match the profile of the parts book hand brake? Last possibility is that the transmission itself is different. Hugh

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Leon
those zink scuff plates look real nice, and appear to be holding up well too. The original process probably involved silk screening a mask / resist on the aluminum, then etching using acid. I should research this a little more.  You are right, today's technology makes it easier to copy/ paste the Buick logo and surround it with a  diamond pattern using a computer. 

 

Larry
those are great photos of your friend's 1924-45.  In the second photo, at the left end of the scuff plate, is that a black rubber bumper/ wear pad to cushion the lower corner of the rear door ?  How many original miles does that -45 have ?  I know why you are holding out for a complete original car like this one. My car is a 30+ year project and still not complete.

 

Hugh
I finally figured out the hand brake lever. My rechromed lever looks like a 1927. below are additional photos of mine plus a 1927 Master engine-transmission photo from craigslist to compare.  The 1927 lever  pawl  engages correctly to the ratchet for the full range of motion, so should be functional, but not with the shift tower surround.  I will try to get dimensions for that surround plate.  anyone have a photo of a 1927 tower surround plate ?  Untill I get my hands on a 1925 master parts car, this car will remain a mixture of 1924-1925-1926-1927-1928 parts. It is still rolling on 1926 standard wheels & axles.

  And thanks for the links above for T alum molding.  I save all this information until I can finish areas in work and move on to others.

 

 

Kevin

 

 

 

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Kevin,

You sent me this eBay link since I am looking for a 1925 standard handbrake.

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/266336-wtb-1925-buick-hand-brake-lever/page-2?hl=handbrake

Leif identified this handbrake as a 1924 6 cylinder handbrake. I did not buy it because it is not correct for my car. But this could be correct for your car. 1925 Master had 2 levers. Maybe this one will work for you. This is his relisted posting. Hugh

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1920s-era-Emergency-Brake-Handle-Old-Skool-Hot-Rod-SCTA-Trog-Speedster-/121903908535?vxp=mtr

Edited by gr8success (see edit history)
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I am not trying to be a wise-guy on here, but, there is something that needs to be corrected in the interest of all concerned.  There are no such models in the Buick lineup for 1924 as a Standard or Master.  The Standard and Master models were introduced for the 1925 cars.  As I said this needs to be clarified so that someone not really familiar with Buicks of this era will not start looking for something in the way of parts that simply do not exist.  The 1924 6-Cylinder Buicks were out there all by their lonesome.  1924 was a watershed year for Buick Sixes with the removable cylinder head, four wheel brakes, nickeled radiator shell, and all.  To have two separate lines would have been more than the factory could have gotten ready for in the time allotted for new model introduction.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas 

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I am not trying to be a wise-guy on here, but, there is something that needs to be corrected in the interest of all concerned.  There are no such models in the Buick lineup for 1924 as a Standard or Master.  The Standard and Master models were introduced for the 1925 cars.  As I said this needs to be clarified so that someone not really familiar with Buicks of this era will not start looking for something in the way of parts that simply do not exist.  The 1924 6-Cylinder Buicks were out there all by their lonesome.  1924 was a watershed year for Buick Sixes with the removable cylinder head, four wheel brakes, nickeled radiator shell, and all.  To have two separate lines would have been more than the factory could have gotten ready for in the time allotted for new model introduction.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas 

 

Terry, Thank you!

 

I have heard, seen advertised, and in print, "1924 Buick Master Six" and after a period of time, I just gave up trying to right the inaccuracy of those claiming that's what they had in car or part form.

 

I have also tried contacting people about mis-representing their 1926 Standard car for sale as "Master Six". 

 

There was even a yellow and black 27-54CC Convertible Coupe for sale like the car I have, advertised as "1927 Buick Roadster".  

 

Oh boy...!

 

You are a wise man, not a "wise guy" by bringing this point up.

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