?? HOW DO I REPLACE HEADLIGHT SWITCH-1954 CADILLAC ??

[Marty Roth]

The headlights, taillights, and parking lights on the '54 Cadillac stay "ON" for just a few moments, and then will only "flicker" on for a moment - his continues for as long as the light switch is pulled "ON". The brake lights and turn signal work correctly, so I assume that the problem is in the switch - possibly the rheostat?

 

Is there another answer?

 

I'm not aware of any circuit breaker, but please correct me if I'm wrong, and no fuse appears blown. The Twilight Sentinel was bypassed years ago, so that has not been a consideration.

 

When the lights "cycle" on and off (a very quick blink on, and then longer off), it appears that something is building heat, causing a discontinuity. 

 

It appears that on the '54 Cadillac, the entire steering column, instrument cluster and speedometer, with all heater and defroster cables must be removed to get to the switch behind the dash, because it seems impossible to reach it from under the dash.

 

Is there an easier way??

 

2 photos - one larger for detail - Headlight switch is the knob to the left of the instrument pod.

 

Your suggestion?  --  and thanks in advance

 

Marty

Edited February 22, 2016 by Marty Roth (see edit history)

[Bleach]

Maybe the padded dash comes off to expose the inner workings of the dash itself?

[Marty Roth]

I just checked -

 

The leather dash top seems completely solid

[misterc9]

The flicking is the circuit breaker kicking in and out. The problem might not be the switch itself. A heavy draw anywhere in the lighting can cause this. If it happens with just the parking lights on then the problem is in the tail lights or the parking lights. If it's only with the head lights on then it's the head lights. Does it do it on high beam also? Look for bare or frayed wires any where from the light fixtures to the headlight switch and dimmer switch. Observe the lights while on and see if any look dimmer or don't come on at all. These would be the first places to look for trouble.

[Guest AlCapone]

The first thing I would look for is a faulty or a bad ground. Wayne

[MCHinson]

Marty,

 

I have no idea if the switch is the problem or if you have another electrical gremlin somewhere in the circuit but if you need to know how to remove the instrument cluster, here is the section of the factory service manual that explains how to do that. I assume you could remove the cluster and then access the switch.

 

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Cadillac/1954/ServiceManual/Chassis%20Electrical/15%201954%20CAD-Chassis%20Electrical.pdf

[Restorer32]

We had the same problem on a '58 Cad after we installed Halogen headlight bulbs. Too much current for the circuit breaker in the switch.

[Marty Roth]

All of these notes make sense, and tie-in together. The lights were fine previously, but we recently got the car back after having a new convertible top installed, as well as new boot well and trunk lining. I had not driven it since

 

I'll get back with the trimmer, and will follow the wiring to the taillights, since the "flicker" is constant with park, low, and high beam lights, but not brake/turn lights.

 

The metallic clunk I hear in the dash each time the lights flicker is likely the circuit breaker in the switch, and I would certainly prefer to pull the trunk lining, as opposed to the dashboard, since the switch cannot be reached from below.

 

Thank you for your comments and thoughts.

 

You members of this FORUM are, and continue to be awesome with your accumulated knowledge, and willingness to share.

[Restorer32]

I believe the switch can be removed without pulling the dash. Look up under and you will find a small button on the main switch shaft that when pressed will allow the switch knob and associated shaft to pull out of the dash. It works much like an adjustable aluminum tent pole. The bezel can then be removed and the switch pulled out from behind the dash. At least that's how it is on a '58.

[Bleach]

The dash cover does come off. I found a section in the '54 shop manual that describes it. The molding at the front by the windshield and screws along the bottom of dash cover and corners need to be removed. Once you lift it up a little two wires need to be disconnected from the light sensor.

I found a website that has it:http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Cadillac/1954/ServiceManual/Body/index.html

See images 4 and 5.

You might find additional information you are curious about.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Cadillac/1954/ServiceManual/index.htm

Edited February 23, 2016 by Bleach (see edit history)

[Marty Roth]

Wow ! Thank you - that is a great resource.

 

I really appreciate your help

[D Yaros]

The dash cover does come off. I found a section in the '54 shop manual that describes it. The molding at the front by the windshield and screws along the bottom of dash cover and corners need to be removed. Once you lift it up a little two wires need to be disconnected from the light sensor.

I found a website that has it:http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Cadillac/1954/ServiceManual/Body/index.html

See images 4 and 5.

You might find additional information you are curious about.

http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/Cadillac/1954/ServiceManual/index.htm

Gee, I wonder who the guy was that uploaded the manual to that site?  

[Bleach]

Gee, I wonder who the guy was that uploaded the manual to that site?  

Well waddaya know bout dat.

I totally missed that.

Nice job and much appreciated even though I don't even own any Cadillacs right now.

[Dandy Dave]

Most likely a shorted wire somewhere. Check every inch. Sometimes they are easy to find, Sometimes not. Keep us posted Marty. Dandy Dave! 

[Marty Roth]

Thanks Dave, most likely in the tail light wiring since it affects park and head lights too, and since the trunk lining was recently replaced by the shop which did the new top and hydraulics.

 

Will get t it , hopefully this week.

[60FlatTop]

Thanks Dave, most likely in the tail light wiring since it affects park and head lights too, and since the trunk lining was recently replaced by the shop which did the new top and hydraulics.

 

Will get t it , hopefully this week.

Ahhhh! Always look in the last place someone worked. It's the most direct troubleshooting method out there.

 

My test would have been to remove the bulbs and test the voltage with no loads first.

Bernie

[Marty Roth]

Thanks Bernie - yes, I am planning to do that first, especially since the rear bulbs are LED - even though they have given no trouble over the past 3 years.

[Marty Roth]

We get voltage to the contacts within the bulb sockets - the bulbs have continuity, and light when current is applied.

 

The lights stay on steadily for a very short duration, and then begin to "FLICKER"

 

I can hear the circuit breaker in the dash opening and closing contact - 

 

So - is it the circuit breaker in the headlight switch which is defective?

---or  --  is there a short in the wiring to the tail lights which is drawing current and making the breaker open and close?

[Restorer32]

Did recent work add any lights? If so you are simply overloading the circuit breaker.

[Guest 46 New Yorker]

My only qualification is I owned a 54 in 64 wow! What a car!  Before you dig into the dash know that any faulty connection between the battery and the switch can cause the condition you describe.  I would start first by powering a headlamp with a jumper wire from the battery to a lamps 12 volt terminal while the switch is in the full on position.  This test will prove you don't have a short (grounded) or a bad breaker (don't know if there is one)  When headlamp is lit check if all other lights are on?  If a tail lamp lights while you are powering the headlamp then this says the dash switch is not at fault because it is the central intersection of all the lamps that it powers.  Anyhow maybe something else is bad other then the hardest part of all to replace.  Good luck, Bruce

[MCHinson]

Marty,

 

I would take the tail light bulbs out and, with the light switch off, check the tail light socket contacts for continuity to ground. I suspect you have a wire that got shorted to ground when they were working on the trunk lining or top. Either the circuit breaker is defective, or it is working correctly to protect the car from a short circuit somewhere.

 

If you have continuity to ground on a positive contact in one of the tail light sockets, you have a shorted wire. 

[Marty Roth]

Did recent work add any lights? If so you are simply overloading the circuit breaker.

No, nothing added in recent years - last work done last time this car was driven was installation by professional of new convertible top, new trunk lining, and cemented rear carpeting to floor

[Marty Roth]

Marty,

 

I would take the tail light bulbs out and, with the light switch off, check the tail light socket contacts for continuity to ground. I suspect you have a wire that got shorted to ground when they were working on the trunk lining or top. Either the circuit breaker is defective, or it is working correctly to protect the car from a short circuit somewhere.

 

If you have continuity to ground on a positive contact in one of the tail light sockets, you have a shorted wire. 

Thanks Matt,

 

Actually I just ran that test earlier this morning and found no continuity between the contacts and ground. Sincer there wasn't an apparent ground or short,  I just ordered a new headlight switch.

 

Hopefully Ill get a chance in the coming week(s) to pull the dash pad and change out the switch

Edited February 28, 2016 by Marty Roth (see edit history)

[Dandy Dave]

Say Marty, You staying High and Dry with all the rain down there? Dandy Dave!

[Marty Roth]

Thanks Dave,

 

We're doing fine here - intermittent rain, but not too bad -

 

Much worse across the lake, as well as in Northwest Louisiana - 16 inches in 11 hours

(Just imagine if that rain were snow? - 1 foot of snow for every inch of rain?))