1985 Trans Am!

[Guest Xeon]

It's here! It's finally here!!

 

As most of you know, my neighbor gave me a 1985 trans am a couple of weeks ago. Problem was, between him being busy, rain, and other problems, it took until today to actually get it here. But it's here!

 

 

It actually looks better than I thought! Through the VIN# I have found out it has the LG4 305 4bbl. I was guessing it was FI but I guess I was wrong(and got the lowest HP option).

 

Not sure what else to say right now, so here are the pics!

 

 

 

 

Oh and the VIN# is 1G21W87H1FL631905

 

I can guarantee that it's exactly right, but I'm pretty sure enough of it is to decode it. The panel on the dash that you can see through the windshield is all rusted so it's hard to read.

 

All I can tell right now, it needs money, work, and love.

[padgett]

Some of the best cars I know have started out just that way. LG-4 should have a Quadrajet with vestigial computer controls. Very nice basis to start from. Sounds like what you were going to spend just became a budget for restfication.

[Rusty_OToole]

Welcome to the old car club! You did ok, I have paid good money for worse cars and lately too ha ha. Suggest you start by giving it a good cleaning, when you go thru the trunk and interior save any screws, bolts, and odd looking bits of rubber and metal. Even if you are sure they are not a car part they will probably be something you need later. You can throw out the McD wrappers and dried up ballpoint pens lol.

 

If you find any new parts they will be a clue to why they stopped driving a car. A new water pump, or brake shoes in the trunk will probably come in handy.

 

Make a list of what it needs and map out a plan. The first thing you should buy is a repair manual. If you run into any snags we are here.

[Guest Xeon]

Some of the best cars I know have started out just that way. LG-4 should have a Quadrajet with vestigial computer controls. Very nice basis to start from. Sounds like what you were going to spend just became a budget for restfication.

 

According to my father, it has a Quadrajet. My our neighbor says that with that back "wing" we could fill the hole with epoxy, press it together, and coat it with fiberglass. Not sure if that'll work or not.. I do know I want the wing, and I don't want to spend $600+ for a new one made of fiberglass. The original is rubber incase anyone was wondering.

 

 

Would you happen to know what wheels they are? I've seen multiple T/As with them, but I can't find anything out about them!!!

 

Welcome to the old car club! You did ok, I have paid good money for worse cars and lately too ha ha. Suggest you start by giving it a good cleaning, when you go thru the trunk and interior save any screws, bolts, and odd looking bits of rubber and metal. Even if you are sure they are not a car part they will probably be something you need later. You can throw out the McD wrappers and dried up ballpoint pens lol.

 

If you find any new parts they will be a clue to why they stopped driving a car. A new water pump, or brake shoes in the trunk will probably come in handy.

 

Make a list of what it needs and map out a plan. The first thing you should buy is a repair manual. If you run into any snags we are here.

 

Already cleaned some, but I started late so I only was able to wash down the exterior quick. Will get to interior tomorrow hopefully.

 

Right now it's cleaned out of anything big. Mostly needs a look for important small pieces and then a good vacuum.

 

I know now that the brakes need work. My neighbor said that, that's why we got it towed. That and it doesn't start because someone pulled a fuel line(Again, according to my neighbor, but there's definitely a fuel leak somewhere.)

 

Should be going to get a manual tomorrow.

[28 Chrysler]

The wheels are aftermarket wheels that would fit most cars with 4 3/4 or 4 1/2 bolt pattern.

[Guest Xeon]

The wheels are aftermarket wheels that would fit most cars with 4 3/4 or 4 1/2 bolt pattern.

 

I guess they were just common in the 80s or something? I think they look nice enough, either re-chromed or painted gold/silver.

 

It has 70s on them now, but my neighbor said that the wheels are really for 50s or 60s.

[Guest]

The wheels appear to be Centerline wheels;

Edited December 7, 2015 by helfen (see edit history)

[padgett]

I usually see those wheels on trucks and RVs. Personally, I like snowflakes. The ones on my Judge are 15x8 but lately tires are getting hard to find. 15x7s are more common.

 

[Guest Backyard Buddy]

Great find. Can't wait to see the progress.

[Guest Xeon]

snip

 

Love the snowflakes, but unless I was going to buy new re-manufactured wheels, most of them I find for sale are beat up pretty bad. And still not cheap. I also like the "GTA style mesh" or something wheels. But again, same problem.

[Guest DadsReatta]

It will look like a different car after a good cleanup

[TerryB]

I bought its cousin, a 1983 Z-28 new in 1983. Had a real love / hate relationship with that car! It too had the 305 w quadrajet carb setup. A great looking car for sure but was plagued with many bugs that made driving it frustrating at times. You can start with a clean slate here and have fun learning a lot about these cars. You sure got it for a good price!

Terry

[Guest Xeon]

I'm at my first problem. Albeit very small.

 

 

Alright, so I was told by my neighbor that it could use a new radiator, supposedly this one is quite old and slowly leaks, new spark plugs, obviously, and a rebuild of the carb. Spark plugs should be easy, radiator will be as he can get me one new for $70 but the carb kit is a problem.

 

So I found this, which looks like it'll definitely work, http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARBURETOR-REBUILD-KIT-ROCHESTER-QUADRAJET-80-CHEVY-85-89-CHEVY-TRUCK-/321429897385?hash=item4ad6b700a9:g:OUQAAOSwewJTlzvj&vxp=mtrbut I don't want to wait 5 days..(Like I said, not a huge problem.. )

 

So I went looking on Autozone and found this. http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/carburetor-kit/gp-sorensen-carburetor-kit/56608_665049_0_5128_6532/?checkfit=truewhich says it's an exact fit on a 1985 Trans am with the same engine/carb supposedly. Problem is, the numbers don't match. What looks like the part# on the carb in the car is 17084220, that kit says " Notes: Rochester Carburetor #17085202-17085204, 17085207, 17110898, 17110901-17110903, E4ME"

 

 

I know I'll probably end up getting the one off ebay, but I thought I'd try..

[Rusty_OToole]

Have you inspected the rad? Have you tried to start the car? You can't go by what anyone says, not even me. I don't know how many times I thought I had a problem figured out, tested the car and found I was wrong.

 

If the fins in the rad are rotten and falling out, or if the rad is leaking, ya it's bad. By the way $70 seems very cheap for a new rad.

 

I would clean under the hood (get rid of leaves and trash, vacuum or blow out with an air hose) then try to get it started and go from there.

 

Would also say, if the carb is bad, you might better buy a rebuilt. You could try to rebuild it yourself but the Quadrajet is not a simple or easy carb to rebuild. It may be better and cheaper to buy an Edelbrock carb.

 

There is a good chance it needs spark plugs, and if it does, it probably needs new plug wires, especially if they have never been replaced.

[Guest Xeon]

Have you inspected the rad? Have you tried to start the car? You can't go by what anyone says, not even me. I don't know how many times I thought I had a problem figured out, tested the car and found I was wrong.

 

If the fins in the rad are rotten and falling out, or if the rad is leaking, ya it's bad. By the way $70 seems very cheap for a new rad.

 

I would clean under the hood (get rid of leaves and trash, vacuum or blow out with an air hose) then try to get it started and go from there.

 

Would also say, if the carb is bad, you might better buy a rebuilt. You could try to rebuild it yourself but the Quadrajet is not a simple or easy carb to rebuild. It may be better and cheaper to buy an Edelbrock carb.

 

There is a good chance it needs spark plugs, and if it does, it probably needs new plug wires, especially if they have never been replaced.

 

Tried to start the car, yes. Doesn't start. Haven't tried too hard yet.

 

Inspected the rad. no. I don't plan on getting him to get a new rad until I can actually tell if this one is bad.

 

He owns a body shop, and can get almost any part cheap. A new windshield for $130, installed. Although a new rad is only $90 at autozone and they're not known to be the cheapest.

 

First thing I'm doing tomorrow is cleaning up the engine and engine compartment. According to my father, the valve covers are leaking oil and need a gasket.

 

 

True, I have to look into this, I just heard it's best to rebuild it as this engine and carb combo is perfect. Not sure though. My father did say he can probably rebuild it, and with the help of some youtube vids it shouldn't be impossible.

 

They've probably never been replaced, so I'll look.

 

 

Thanks for info, I appreciate it!!

[Guest GT52]

Not to be "Debbie downer", but have you considered that it may be cheaper to buy a nice driver than to turn the car you got for free into a nice driver?  Gen 3 F-bodies are incredibly plentiful and relatively cheap.  Just sold on Ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pontiac-Firebird-Trans-Am-Coupe-2-Door-/291585501559?forcerrptr=true&hash=item43e3d9a977:g:UfcAAOSwNgxWDIPr&item=291585501559

I don't think you can fix the car that you have to that level for that price.

 

If you want the car for the experience of working on it and restoring it, go for it, because you can't get one cheaper than free.  If you want a daily driver, which you seemed to be looking for originally, then your free car may end up being considerably more expensive than one you can buy that someone else has put the work/money into.

 

Either way, I'd recommend you find a forum for Gen 3 GM F-bodies and seek out their help with parts and technical details and such.  You can't do better than someone who has one sitting in their garage.

[Guest Xeon]

Not to be "Debbie downer", but have you considered that it may be cheaper to buy a nice driver than to turn the car you got for free into a nice driver?  Gen 3 F-bodies are incredibly plentiful and relatively cheap.  Just sold on Ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pontiac-Firebird-Trans-Am-Coupe-2-Door-/291585501559?forcerrptr=true&hash=item43e3d9a977:g:UfcAAOSwNgxWDIPr&item=291585501559

I don't think you can fix the car that you have to that level for that price.

 

If you want the car for the experience of working on it and restoring it, go for it, because you can't get one cheaper than free.  If you want a daily driver, which you seemed to be looking for originally, then your free car may end up being considerably more expensive than one you can buy that someone else has put the work/money into.

 

Either way, I'd recommend you find a forum for Gen 3 GM F-bodies and seek out their help with parts and technical details and such.  You can't do better than someone who has one sitting in their garage.

 

 

Because I have 3 yrs+ before I actually need a car. Really. In between school and work, before college, I don't have much better to do. So when I need a car to drive back and forth to college I will(Hopefully) have a reliable car that I know everything that went into it.

 

 

True, I think ThirdGen is pretty active.

 

 

 

 

I picked up and air filter as the old one is caked up, a "breather filter" as it doesn't currently have one, oil and a Bosch filter(combo deal), thermostat as my father said they sometimes get sticky and the previous owner mentioned it needing one, a temperature sensor of somekind? My father knew what it was, it currently has one that looks like someone ripped it apart! Some antifreeze as even if it doesn't need it now, although my father said even if the rad is fine it's time for a flush, there was a deal and we'll use it eventually. And then a set of gaskets for the valves I believe? I think that's it. I meant to get Spark plugs, but forgot..

Edited December 8, 2015 by Xeon (see edit history)

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

Hooray !!
Congratulations !!

[padgett]

For a computer car I'd go with a Stant "Superstat" 180F - is enough for closed loop. I always set up cars to run cooler than stock & everything under the hood lasts longer.

Can also open it up to about 373cid and an 800 cfm QJ (many people do not like QJs, mostly people who believed lowering the air valve spring tension would go fast. These would bog twice: once off the line and again at the top of third as the bitty bowl ran out of gas. Properly set it would get through the 1/4 in best Colin Chapman style. (I had a 750 CFM QJ on a 164 cid Corvair 140 hp with trombones and it won a lot of autocrosses. Air valve was tight and response was instant).

Must admit I never met a Holley that I could not make leak.

My only advice: anything you replace, go heavy duty (e.g. if a two core rad, replace with a three core).

BTW difference between buying a nice car and building one is that you will know exactly what the one you build will do.

ps for more than you ever wanted to know about Rochester part numbers (to 1975)

[Guest Xeon]

For a computer car I'd go with a Stant "Superstat" 180F - is enough for closed loop. I always set up cars to run cooler than stock & everything under the hood lasts longer.

Can also open it up to about 373cid and an 800 cfm QJ (many people do not like QJs, mostly people who believed lowering the air valve spring tension would go fast. These would bog twice: once off the line and again at the top of third as the bitty bowl ran out of gas. Properly set it would get through the 1/4 in best Colin Chapman style. (I had a 750 CFM QJ on a 164 cid Corvair 140 hp with trombones and it won a lot of autocrosses. Air valve was tight and response was instant).

Must admit I never met a Holley that I could not make leak.

My only advice: anything you replace, go heavy duty (e.g. if a two core rad, replace with a three core).

BTW difference between buying a nice car and building one is that you will know exactly what the one you build will do.

ps for more than you ever wanted to know about Rochester part numbers (to 1975)

 

I'm headed to bed so I can get up early and install the parts, or atleast clean the engine, before my father goes to work so just quick.

 

 

For right this very second, I got the autozone brand cheapo thermostat cause it's all they had. Advanced carries the "Stant Superstat 180F" so before I call it road worthy I'll probably end up picking one up. Even my father said he'd get a better one before calling it done.

[Guest Xeon]

Well, it still doesn't start, even with starting fluid. I guess we'll be checking for a spark when we're back from work.(Quickly tried to start it early this morning before work)

 

It tries to start, and even gets really close sometimes, but never fully does.

[padgett]

First thought: Distributer 180 out (does that 305 still have an HEI ?). Been a long time but also remember something about 305 HEIs drilling holes in the rotor and depositing carbon inside the cap causing a no-start.

[Guest Xeon]

First thought: Distributer 180 out (does that 305 still have an HEI ?). Been a long time but also remember something about 305 HEIs drilling holes in the rotor and depositing carbon inside the cap causing a no-start.

 

I know I should have checked but..

 

They hooked that battery up wrong when they we're going to tow! One of the terminals was bent and a wire wasn't coming in contact with the terminal. We fixed it, and jump started it for good measure and it started right up! No real smoke and it sounded totally awesome!!!

 

Again, we we're headed to work but my father did say it idled better than he thought it would. Can't move it as it's on jackstands with both the front wheels off, waiting for some cheap tires my neighbor is going to give me.

 

Tomorrow my neighbor is actually going to try and teach me how to pull dents out, and watch me as I try to pull them out of the Trans am!! There are only a few, and small ones at that but they're there.

 

 

 

 

 

Now one thing I've been looking at is the front bumper. It's warped pretty bad, my father says it's just what the rubbery material they used does. Makes sense to me. Only problem is they're discontinued everywhere. Jegs has one, my father called and they said it's discontinued but they may have one in stock, but it's $450! The back wing is expensive too.. You can find them, made in fiberglass and not rubber, but they're like $400 for one. I was expecting expensive, but I mean $400 for a not huge piece of hollow fiberglass...

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

For a computer car I'd go with a Stant "Superstat" 180F - is enough for closed loop. I always set up cars to run cooler than stock & everything under the hood lasts longer.

Can also open it up to about 373cid and an 800 cfm QJ (many people do not like QJs, mostly people who believed lowering the air valve spring tension would go fast. These would bog twice: once off the line and again at the top of third as the bitty bowl ran out of gas. Properly set it would get through the 1/4 in best Colin Chapman style. (I had a 750 CFM QJ on a 164 cid Corvair 140 hp with trombones and it won a lot of autocrosses. Air valve was tight and response was instant).

Must admit I never met a Holley that I could not make leak.

My only advice: anything you replace, go heavy duty (e.g. if a two core rad, replace with a three core).

BTW difference between buying a nice car and building one is that you will know exactly what the one you build will do.

ps for more than you ever wanted to know about Rochester part numbers (to 1975)

I agree on all points. 

I go with the coolest thermostat that is recommended 180degF sounds right (165degF for mine, that's too cool for a computer engine .)

And the QJ when set up right is the best carburetor for a GM engine.

(no QJ on mine, QJ wasn't available for '55 but it is a Rochester) 

The best thing about QJ is GM put them on everything.

The worst thing about a QJ is GM put them  on everything.

A QJ has to be set up differently  for each application

 

I recommend both these guys for any and all info on QJ

 

Ken at

 http://www.everyday-performance.com/

 

 

Mark at

http://www.quadrajetpower.com/ 

 

I'm headed to bed so I can get up early and install the parts, or atleast clean the engine, before my father goes to work so just quick.

 

 

For right this very second, I got the autozone brand cheapo thermostat cause it's all they had. Advanced carries the "Stant Superstat 180F" so before I call it road worthy I'll probably end up picking one up. Even my father said he'd get a better one before calling it done.

Long dormant engines are prone to have thermostat failure along with water pump failure.

For water pumps I recommend

Tony Coenradi- the Flying Dutchman

 http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/

[Guest Xeon]

I agree on all points. 

I go with the coolest thermostat that is recommended 180degF sounds right (165degF for mine, that's too cool for a computer engine .)

And the QJ when set up right is the best carburetor for a GM engine.

(no QJ on mine, QJ wasn't available for '55 but it is a Rochester) 

The best thing about QJ is GM put them on everything.

The worst thing about a QJ is GM put them  on everything.

A QJ has to be set up differently  for each application

 

I recommend both these guys for any and all info on QJ

 

Ken at

 http://www.everyday-performance.com/

 

 

Mark at

http://www.quadrajetpower.com/ 

 

Long dormant engines are prone to have thermostat failure along with water pump failure.

For water pumps I recommend

Tony Coenradi- the Flying Dutchman

 http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/

 

Thanks, I'll look into it!

 

 

Now, I know I shouldn't even be thinking about this, but are there any disadvantages to having an "Open element air cleaner" rather than the stock?

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

Thanks, I'll look into it!

 

 

Now, I know I shouldn't even be thinking about this, but are there any disadvantages to having an "Open element air cleaner" rather than the stock?

Usually the factory air filter assembly has provision to provide heated air for warming up a cold started engine..(a thermostatic valve causes  the air flow past the exhaust manifold during warm up)

 

Open element air cleaner will by pass that feature, 

 

I had a '73 Olds 88 455cid for 28 years. 

I used an open element on it for a couple of years. 

After a time, I put it back the way the factory had it.

I liked the help it gave warming up the engine.

Unless you're racing, go with the factory set up> is my advice

 

edit; my Olds had the factory QJ carb. I loved it !!

Edited December 10, 2015 by JamesBulldogMiller55Buick (see edit history)

[padgett]

Two things:

1) noise (particularly at WOT

2) IAT (sucking hot under hood and behind radiator air rather than cool dense slightly speed pressurized air from in front of the radiator. Now what you do with the THERMAC/TAC hose from the exhaust manifold is up to you but is most needed in a cold climate.

[Guest Xeon]

Well, Alabama is really a cold climate, but we do have our mornings of 25-30F every once in a while. I just love the look of an Open element, and if I get my engine looking all nice and shiny I don't really like that big black tube coming from the stock cleaner. That, chrome valve covers and a nice cleaning would really make it look awesome. But that's later anyway. Right now I'm waiting on my neighbor to get me 2 front tires, even mostly bald, just to be able to move it. He said he can get me a free set of 2 if I give him until tomorrow/day after.

[padgett]

You need one of these.

[Guest Xeon]

You need one of these.

 

That probably would be insanely helpful! Problem is I don't have a paypal/card to order anything off of ebay and the only people here that can are out of town!

 

 

 

 

Another thing we found is that now we know it used to have dual exhaust.   The right side exhaust is rusted off so it ends a foot or so behind the bumper, this whole time we thought it was single exhaust..

 

 

It seems to drain the battery right out dead. That's the reason it wouldn't start. This morning, it wouldn't start again until we put it on jumper cables. We actually got it in out driveway so I can actually clean it out/off. My father drove it down, he said power steering is dead, and the front brakes are locked up. Also he looked underneath and said one of the tie rods is all bent up?

[ScarredKnightfan]

Nice to see you finally have a car & aren't bouncing around between deciding which type of car & which model to get.

 

Congrats!  The 1st pics of it remind me of a scene in Knight Rider when KITT was "buried".  LOL

 

 

Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic  (awaiting new owner)

"It's a pudding made of figs ... and bacon" __ Gonzo to Miss Piggy/John Denver and Muppets __ 'We Wish You A Merry Christmas'

[padgett]

OK is a good time to be making a list of what it needs to be driven safely. Brakes may be dragging but if really locked up it would not move. Seem to remember something about GM cars of the era using phenolic pistons that never worked right, suspect some loaded calipers are in your future. Bent tie rod same-same. No big. Have set alignment with a tape measure before.

 

I suspect what you have are manifolds that feed to a single catalyst (usu under the passenger seat) and then split into duals "cat back". Cosmetic only.

 

Cannot say strongly enough Get The Factory Manual (aka GTFM). It will tell you all the little things than must be done to accompish a task and has decision trees for troubleshooting. Once you get past "remove battery" as the first step for everything it is invaluable. To me being on CD is even better.

[Guest Xeon]

OK is a good time to be making a list of what it needs to be driven safely. Brakes may be dragging but if really locked up it would not move. Seem to remember something about GM cars of the era using phenolic pistons that never worked right, suspect some loaded calipers are in your future. Bent tie rod same-same. No big. Have set alignment with a tape measure before.

 

I suspect what you have are manifolds that feed to a single catalyst (usu under the passenger seat) and then split into duals "cat back". Cosmetic only.

 

Cannot say strongly enough Get The Factory Manual (aka GTFM). It will tell you all the little things than must be done to accompish a task and has decision trees for troubleshooting. Once you get past "remove battery" as the first step for everything it is invaluable. To me being on CD is even better.

 

 

Sorry, he did say they were dragging. All I know is it needs brake fluid and possibly a master cylinder?

 

It looks like a lot of the exhaust is rusted, and parts look like they are getting ready to fall. I think that after we get the major issues taken care of it may not be a bad idea to get a new exhaust and possible headers if already have it up. I know just those wont help performance, but that's not what I'm looking to do yet.

 

I'm looking, but could you link one that's a book? I'd rather a CD in most cases, but I'd rather a book so I can look at it and the car at the same time. We were just going to get a Haynes, but now I think it'd be better just to go with the real one for some more money..

 

 

EDIT: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-Pontiac-Firebird-Trans-Am-Shop-Manual-OEM-Service-Book-/231776464914?hash=item35f6f43012:g:YJ0AAOSwNphWZQCm&vxp=mtr ???

Edited December 12, 2015 by Xeon (see edit history)

[Bleach]

CD manuals are a pain to use and the details sometimes suck. $25 shipped sounds like a good deal to me for a book like this in good condition. To just say it's way better than a Haynes is an understatement.

[Rusty_OToole]

Do yourself a big favor and make sure all the factory gee gaws on the air filter and carb are present and working correctly. I did this on an old car once and was totally amazed what a difference it made. All of a sudden it started and ran like a fuel injection car even on the coldest days. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it. Of course I live in Canada so our cold days may be colder than yours.

 

I mean things like hot air stove if there is one, the hot air hose, choke pulloff, vacuum control for hot/cold air plus automatic choke and carb adjustments. Don't go getting ideas of your own, set everything up by the factory manual and be amazed.

 

I understand you are planning a tuneup, replace spark plugs, replace valve cover gaskets etc. If you do this work, carb adjustment should be the last step in a tuneup.

 

Incidentally you should know how to test spark plug wires. You can do this with a multimeter or ohm meter. They should have around 5000 ohms resistance per foot of length. Gently tug and twist when you test to check for intermittent faults. Also you can spray with water at night with the engine running, if you see sparks jumping around they are leaky.

 

Also if they are soft and mushy, or real hard and stiff they have had their life. If they are the originals they are probably due to be replaced but most likely new ones were put on at some time.

[Rusty_OToole]

About the rubber bumpers and spoiler. There are ways to fix them, special fillers etc. There is a knack to fixing them. For the bumper sometimes you have to get in behind and stuff in pieces of styrofoam to push them back into shape. For the spoiler you may have to dig out some of the filler, glue it together and smooth it over with filler. Your bodyman friend should be able to help with this.

 

In the meantime get it cleaned up and running decent and start fixing what needs to be fixed.

 

O by the way if you are not going to be driving it for some time you should add stabilizer to the fuel. You may even want to drain the tank from time to time and put in fresh fuel.

[padgett]

Go  for it that is a good price particularly with free shipping. If you get into manuals GM usually had several, a "preliminary" which is usually slimmer and only has differences from the prior year and the "final" which has everything. Then there are parts manuals, body service manuals, special equipment manuals (Rochester fuel injections have their own manual), assembly manuals, etc, etc. I have about 50 linear feet or several hundred pounds of manuals - and that is just ones since 1957.

 

OTOH if steam comes back, I'm ready.

 

And on the gripping hand when travelling it is handy to have something I can read on my phone so I generally have both. Ones that are one or a group of .pdfs are fine, searchable is a plus. The one for my Grand Cherokee is a pain - over 1100 files including scaled vector graphics. But still usable as long as you have Windows.

 

But then am strange and often had a service manual before I bought a car, was part of the decision process.

 

You'll find that there are others that a smaller and cover most things but when really in a bind there is nothing like a Factory Shop Manual

 

ps just a word of caution, do not use normal paint on a flexible panel like the nose. It will crack. Badly.

[Guest Xeon]

Do yourself a big favor and make sure all the factory gee gaws on the air filter and carb are present and working correctly. I did this on an old car once and was totally amazed what a difference it made. All of a sudden it started and ran like a fuel injection car even on the coldest days. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it. Of course I live in Canada so our cold days may be colder than yours.

 

I mean things like hot air stove if there is one, the hot air hose, choke pulloff, vacuum control for hot/cold air plus automatic choke and carb adjustments. Don't go getting ideas of your own, set everything up by the factory manual and be amazed.

 

I understand you are planning a tuneup, replace spark plugs, replace valve cover gaskets etc. If you do this work, carb adjustment should be the last step in a tuneup.

 

Incidentally you should know how to test spark plug wires. You can do this with a multimeter or ohm meter. They should have around 5000 ohms resistance per foot of length. Gently tug and twist when you test to check for intermittent faults. Also you can spray with water at night with the engine running, if you see sparks jumping around they are leaky.

 

Also if they are soft and mushy, or real hard and stiff they have had their life. If they are the originals they are probably due to be replaced but most likely new ones were put on at some time.

 

Thanks! We'll probably end up replacing the wires either way.

 

About the rubber bumpers and spoiler. There are ways to fix them, special fillers etc. There is a knack to fixing them. For the bumper sometimes you have to get in behind and stuff in pieces of styrofoam to push them back into shape. For the spoiler you may have to dig out some of the filler, glue it together and smooth it over with filler. Your bodyman friend should be able to help with this.

 

In the meantime get it cleaned up and running decent and start fixing what needs to be fixed.

 

O by the way if you are not going to be driving it for some time you should add stabilizer to the fuel. You may even want to drain the tank from time to time and put in fresh fuel.

  

Yeah, but even my neighbor who hates to spend money on anything said it wouldn't barely be worth fixing the bumper, as for the spoiler we may be filling the hole and coating it with fiberglass.

Would starting it and revving it daily not do the same?

Go  for it that is a good price particularly with free shipping. If you get into manuals GM usually had several, a "preliminary" which is usually slimmer and only has differences from the prior year and the "final" which has everything. Then there are parts manuals, body service manuals, special equipment manuals (Rochester fuel injections have their own manual), assembly manuals, etc, etc. I have about 50 linear feet or several hundred pounds of manuals - and that is just ones since 1957.

 

OTOH if steam comes back, I'm ready.

 

And on the gripping hand when travelling it is handy to have something I can read on my phone so I generally have both. Ones that are one or a group of .pdfs are fine, searchable is a plus. The one for my Grand Cherokee is a pain - over 1100 files including scaled vector graphics. But still usable as long as you have Windows.

 

But then am strange and often had a service manual before I bought a car, was part of the decision process.

 

You'll find that there are others that a smaller and cover most things but when really in a bind there is nothing like a Factory Shop Manual

 

ps just a word of caution, do not use normal paint on a flexible panel like the nose. It will crack. Badly.

Thanks!!

[Guest GT52]

Xeon, I would really encourage you to spend some serious time with a calculator and catalogs and Craigslist, making a serious assessment of what you have, what you need, and what the finished product is likely to be worth...before spending a bunch of your money.  What I'm seeing and hearing leads me to believe you might shock yourself if you honestly assess the costs of everything.  Remember, nice examples of Gen 3 F-bodies can routinely be bought in the $3-5K range.  Depending upon your standards for a "daily driver" you could easily get more than that into your car that you got for free.

 

I've spent a lot of time around 60s muscle cars.  The most common mistake I see made is someone wants a car that typically sells for $50k...they then buy a rolling shell for $10K, thinking they can build their own for less...they then spend 5 years, 1000 hours of labor, and $50K in parts on a restoration...then a year later, disillusioned, they sell it for $45K, and someone else enjoys the fruits of their labor and money.

 

Do what you really want to do, for sure, but do some paper work first and go in knowing what you're getting in to.  JMO.

[padgett]

OTOH some of the neatest show cars have resulted from something just sitting in the garage. Bird in the hand and all that.

 

In counterpoint what GT52 says has a lot of truth, are a lot of neat cars out there that just have something obscure wrong and the owner is tired of it. Most I've paid for any of my cars other than the Jeep (bought that when new) is $6500 ('07 Crossfire couple of years ago) and most of what I do is just routine maintenance, tires, and the occasional battery. But then I usually know exactly what I am looking at.

 

What you have now is a #5 and with a little work you can have a #4 (reliable driver). Few k$ and a lot of work more and it could be a #3 (presentable at local shows). Don't expect any more from it but you can really learn a lot. Meanwhile a really nice one with a bad engine or trans may turn up. Seek and ye shall find.