Engine Repair in Eastern Pennsylvania

[gregleck]

While returning from a 120 mile round trip (through the Poconos - lots of hill climbs) the engine in my 37 Buick coupe began to knock loudly.  I pulled over and checked the oil - it was full on the dipstick.

 

Not wanting further damage, I had the car brought home on a flatbed for the last 20 miles.

 

Local mechanic took a look and told me the engine was down 4-1/2 quarts (!), and a rod is likely the source of the noise.

 

I keep a log in the glove compartment.  I check air pressure in tires, gasoline level, oil level, and radiator fluid level every time before taking the car out, and note these along with the mileage.  There were no oil leaks on the garage floor, and now blow out visible.  I don't see any oil burning, either.  Where the oil went is a mystery.

 

But that is now irrelevant.  Looks like it is time to swallow hard and get the engine rebuilt.

 

I was told by the previous owner it was rebuild only 1500 miles before I purchased it.  I've put on another 1500 miles.  But the mechanic told me, there are rebuilds, and then there are rebuilds.  We don't know the extent, or quality of the previous rebuild.

 

So, I need advice.  Can anyone recommend a good machine shop/mechanic who can rebuild a 1937 Buick 248 straight 8?

 

I am in eastern Pennsylvania.

 

Thanks,

 

Greg

[Mark Gregory]

This company was highly recommended on the AACA a few years ago .http://www.jandm-machine.com/

[JV Puleo]

What a strange coincidence. I have just returned from their shop. They bored the jugs for my 1910 Mitchell. The "J" in J&M is John... I am genuinely impressed with their work. They have a number of early engines in the place, literally from all over the east coast. There was a straight 8 Continental from a '29 Peerless sitting next to my blocks. For, whatever it is worth, I do about 90% of my own machine work and only send the things out that can better be done with purpose-built equipment rather than in my general machine shop. I won't hesitate to use them again... in fact, I'm taking them the crank to grind and balance just as soon as I make new timing gears. I will say this though, they are protective of their reputation and will refuse a job rather than cut corners or be rushed, which isn't to say they are slow. I think I dropped off the Mitchell blocks on Monday.

Edited November 6, 2015 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[Mark Gregory]

Puleo I spoke to them a few years ago about doing a 1931 Reo Royale motor from the west coast . But the deal fell through I never got that car . They were informative and very knowledgeable .

[ILIKECARS53]

Give Automotive Restorations in Lebanon, New Jersey a call at 908 236 6400.   They are right off 78   a few miles before 287.

[Larry Schramm]

IMO,  If the engine only has 3000 miles, I would seriously look at just fixing the bad rod and see if the crankshaft is damaged.  This is true if the engine ran fine before the rod knock.

 

I had the same issue with my truck that one rod started knocking and I instantly turned the truck off.  Only needed to get the one rod re-babbited.  The crankshaft did not have any damage. 

 

If the crankshaft has any babbit material I would try to polish the material off the crankshaft. 

 

Be sure to plastigauge all of the bearings to be sure there is not other damage and the rest of the engine is at spec's. I did all of this and my engine turned out fine and I have been driving it all last summer.

Edited November 8, 2015 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

Something doesn't add up. If the oil was full when you put it on the truck how did it get to be empty by the time the  truck got it to the shop?

 

I would get the car back and check it over myself or have a trusted mechanic look at it.

Edited November 15, 2015 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[GLong]

Yep, where did that 4 1/2 quarts of oil go, while it was on the flatbed?  Was the car sitting level when YOU checked the oil level?  

I believe an inspection of the engine is in order, take it to someone who will drop the oil pan, and inspect each connecting rod for scores, excess oil clearance and obvious wear.  

 

While you have owned and driven the car, have you changed the oil?  Did you notice any change in indicated oil pressure while driving in the Pocono's ?   If the oil was that low, and the engine starved for oil enough that it burnt up a connecting rod bearing or two, then you should have seen significantly low oil pressure, and possibly even elevated engine coolant temperatures.  Did you note any low pressure indications ??

 

GLong

[gregleck]

I've spoken to a few engine rebuilders.  The quotes for a worst case scenario for a rebuild on this 248 CID straight 8 range from $4000 to $16,000.

 

I keep my eye on the temperature, oil, and fuel gauges continuously.  Oil pressure was consistently at 45 while driving.

 

Oil was checked on flat surface.  Pulled dipstick, wiped it clean, check oil as full.  Surprised, to checked it again.  Still read full.

 

Worked on the car (electrical, under dash, cosmetics, starter, turn signals, Trippe lights - nothing with the engine block) all winter after purchased last November and before putting it on the road this August, drained the oil and put in 6 quarts of non-detergent oil.  Put 1500 miles on the car and it ran great until this episode.  Checked oil and noted in log book before every trip.  At 1200 mile mark it was down 2 quarts.

 

I've contacted a few places about having the pan dropped and the engine looked at. 

 

 

The other day I started the engine up.  Quiet at first at low revs.  Loud knocking when revving.   Using a long, 1/2" by 1" piece of wood, I have determined the knock is loudest coming from the center of the bottom of the engine (straight 8 248 CID)  I did note a leak in the exhaust manifold where it joins the exhaust pipe and sure enough, it was burning oil.   However, I don't think it burned 4-1/2 quarts in 4 miles. (distance from where I checked the oil after knocking, to where I stopped to call for a tow.)

 

Engine continues to run very smoothly.

 

We will have an answer only when the engine is opened up.  The last engine rebuilder I spoke to echoed Larry Schramm's advice above:  Fix the bad rod, check the crankshaft, check plastigauge. 

[broker-len]

if you own a old car you should have basic knowledge about how a motor   works    find a picture !!    if you drain the oil and crawl underneath and take the pan bolts off and take and pan down        you may find the problem      eather one of the pistons is lose or one of the bearings----------- what des REBUILT really mean   !!!!!  maybe they did not clean out the oil passages in block and one or more bearings starved for oil    if it is banging that bad     you will see the problem

Edited December 7, 2015 by broker-len (see edit history)