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Everything posted by gregleck

  1. Two more points for anyone who finds themselves in this situation. 1. Although the boosters are not interchangeable, they can be made so by taking the plunger out of the Bendix master brake cylinder and installing it in the Moraine brake booster. 2. If you are replacing an aftermarket brake booster, or a post 1964 booster which was put in your older car, the newer boosters contain a vacuum suspended check valve inside the booster. The older boosters do not have these and rely on an inline vacuum check valve located in the vacuum line between the engine and the booste
  2. Wouldn't dream of it. Once it is out I will tear it down to see what happened, then have it rebuilt. I actually found a 1937 248 engine. It is running but I will still take it apart to replace the babbited pistons and use metal insert bearings. Thanks to all for the tips and tricks!
  3. Would anyone have a part number for the high pressure hose for the power steering pump used in the 1962 full sized Olds? Most likely the same as the 1961 models. Tried Fusick, currently out of stock. Computerized systems at auto parts stores state "part not used on this vehicle." Thanks, Greg
  4. Lots of loud noise. Exhaust manifold is also cracked. Someone who rebuilds prewar engines took a look at it - put a long piece of wood against the block to use as a listening aid and the knocking seemed to originate down in the crankcase. I purchased a lot of odds and ends from Dave back in 2014-2015. Is he still active?
  5. Engine is free already, or at least it did a year ago. As part of the divorce the car had to be valued and the evaluator said the car cranked but would not turn over. Not surprising considering it was last started over 4 years ago. But I do know there is a major problem and the engine needs to be taken at least partially apart to diagnose it. But I cannot do anything with the car until the divorce is over, and that is going to take at least another year and a half. That's why I thought I would move ahead with plans to build a new engine now.
  6. I've got a '37 Buick 46S Sport Coupe with a 248 straight 8, likely original to the car. There is some serious internal problem going on. Engine turned and started five years ago but there is problem deep in the engine - crankshaft, rods, piston - who knows? Car has been held hostage due to a long running divorce - now five years and no end in sight, though I have been told by lawyers and court official to expect another 18 months. However, I have been thinking of obtaining another straight 8 engine and having it rebuilt. I am at the age where time is now more valuabl
  7. And THIS is why the two systems are not interchangeable, not because the bolt patterns don't line up.
  8. Here is an update: Sent the Moraine out to Brake Boosters in Portland, Oregon. 12 week turnaround due to protesters, rioters, and Postal Service delays. When it came back, even though the bolt pattern fits, the new, reconditioned Moraine did not fit my master brake cylinder because the plunger would not work with the master brake cylinder, which is either a Bendix or an aftermarket replacement master brake cylinder. (No identifying marks) At this point, I looked at the Fusick Olds catalog and it looked like the master cylinder from the 1960-1961 full
  9. Hello Matt! I'm the original poster. I think I bought a stainless steel center hood molding from you for my '37 Buick Sports Coupe a few years ago. I believe the transmission connection for standard transmission changed sometime after 1938, and of course if the engine was originally mated to a Dynaflow then you would need an adaptive plate to make the swap. I want to put a Buick straight 8 into a very high quality replica of an Auburn speedster which is currently running a GM 305 crate V8 engine and what I think is a GM 700R4 automatic transmission (haven't crawled
  10. Have a Buick straight 8 engine block and am trying to determine year and displacement. Number is stamped on the right side of the distributor: 63271355 initial numeral looks like "b" and fifth numeral looks like "I". Can anyone confirm this is a 1951 model 263 engine? Will it mate with a 1937 Buick Special transmission, or will an adapter plate be needed?
  11. After a long wait, my power brake booster has arrived. I also obtained a reserve vacuum tank. The tank is fastened to the driver's side front fender, inside the engine compartment, under the hood hinge. There are three pre-drilled holes in the fender, which line up with three holes in brackets attached to the tank. What type of fasteners (and size and length, if known) were used to attach the tank's brackets to the fender? Based on other parts attached to the fender, I am guessing a hex head sheet metal screw, driven from the engine compartment
  12. No one mentioned the term "replica." I have a very well done replica of a 1936 Auburn Boattail Speedster. Occasionally someone will ask, "Is it real?" I tell them if it was real, I wouldn't be there in front of them - rather, I would be on my yacht in the south of France. I will never own a "real" one - not at $800,000 to $1 million dollars. And if I did, I would not be driving it. I've driven this "fake" about 3000 miles in the last year, with the longest trip 700 miles from home. The reliability and availability of parts allows me to do this
  13. Yes, what I found in description by other people: Moraine - brass colored, two studs for master cylinder, held together by locking tabs. Bendix - black colored, four studs for master cylinder, held together by eight bolts. Yes, that is the same conclusion I came to. There is no T piece. And when I looked, there was no vacuum reservoir tank. And though the booster is black, there are only two studs for the master cylinder. Nevertheless, I did drive the car on a 500 mile trip last month. My theory is the car did not come from the factory with power brak
  14. Have sent the Moraine brake booster back. They are going to send a Bendix, which I will have rebuilt. Have determined the current brake booster is aftermarket. It also appears the reserve vacuum tank is missing and the aftermarket booster does not have the fitting for the reserve tank. I see two bolts in the firewall under the driver's side fender. Is this likely where the reserve vacuum tank was attached? Illustration in the '61 shop manual is not very good as to location.
  15. A brand new radiator was put in during the rebuild. After that, it never sat with the cap off. Absolutely possible. During the initial rebuild, a new radiator was put in. It could have sat around. BUT I then put 2000 miles on the car, including a three day, 1400 mile trip, with no problems with overheating whatsoever. The initial overheating problem was minor and apparently due to a faulty fan controller. During that time in the shop, the upper radiator hose was cut to allow installation of a filler neck. Radiator could have been open then.
  16. have google searched it without luck. but "GM part number 383050" comes up as "switch"
  17. If cap was left off, it was left off at the shop. Another theory - rag used to plug port or hose, forgotten and then got pushed into radiator. During first visit, when fan controller was replaced, upper radiator hose was cut to install a filler neck and cap since original filler neck on top of radiator is under grill shell with about 2 inches of clearance, making inspection/filling very difficult. I don't see how a mouse would have crawled into a radiator which was filled with coolant. I have the radiator and can cut it open. Finding a mouse ske
  18. Have a 1936 Auburn kit, circa 1976, which was poorly put together by original owner. After purchase, had entire car taken apart down to the frame. 1. Complete, ground up restoration finished August, 2019. In the fall, noted occasional sweet smell of burning antifreeze. Car not driven over winter. In June 2020, after 1400 mile trip without overheating, coolant level was down one pint. Added water. 2. During a continuous, 225 mile long high speed (75 mph) run, noted temperature above 210 F. Coolant level down about 3 pints. Filled with Prestone antifree
  19. Sound advice, especially coupled with the observation about safety. Forty years ago, I picked up this same model car from a tire shop. Unbeknownst to me, someone pulled the brake hose out and the wheel rubbed against it. Two miles down the road traffic stopped and the pedal when to the floor. Pumping the brakes brought the car to a stop. Brake reservoir was full. No leaks in system but when pressurized, fluid sprayed out of the worn spot in the brake hose. Looks like after the rebuilds, cylinders, drums and shoes will get a good going over.
  20. part number 383050 is listed as a "switch." Is that correct?
  21. Looking for a Bendix power brake booster for 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 to use as core for rebuild.
  22. How would I find the original GM part number for the Bendix brake booster? I see NOS boosters for sale but the sellers usually don't know the year and model the part is for. There is a part number on the box, though. In this case, the 1962 booster was also used in the prior year models.
  23. Forgot to mention that there is a loud hissing sound whenever pressure is applied to the brake pedal. No leaks from master cylinder. I spoke to Brake Boosters last week - they said to expect 6 to 12 weeks turnaround now with COVID
  24. Brake booster on my 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 is leaking - on long, steep hills the vacuum is lost and pedal goes to the floor. Since the car can still be driven, I decided to find a used replacement, have it rebuilt, then install it. (No NOS or rebuilt available) When the part arrived, I saw it did not match the one in my car. Booster in my car - black colored vacuum cylinder = Bendix booster Used booster part - bronze colored vacuum cylinder = Moraine booster Are these interchangeable? Master cylinders for each are different too.
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