gregleck

Nope, you read that right. When I pulled over, checked the dipstick - it read full. Called the tow truck. Mechanic says it was down 4-1/2 quarts. Where did the oil go? That is the mystery. But the knock is loud and the engine now needs repair and rebuild.

While returning from a 120 mile round trip (through the Poconos - lots of hill climbs) the engine in my 37 Buick coupe began to knock loudly. I pulled over and checked the oil - it was full on the dipstick. Not wanting further damage, I had the car brought home on a flatbed for the last 20 miles. Local mechanic took a look and told me the engine was down 4-1/2 quarts (!), and a rod is likely the source of the noise. I keep a log in the glove compartment. I check air pressure in tires, gasoline level, oil level, and radiator fluid level every time before taking the car out, and note these along with the mileage. There were no oil leaks on the garage floor, and now blow out visible. I don't see any oil burning, either. Where the oil went is a mystery. But that is now irrelevant. Looks like it is time to swallow hard and get the engine rebuilt. I was told by the previous owner it was rebuild only 1500 miles before I purchased it. I've put on another 1500 miles. But the mechanic told me, there are rebuilds, and then there are rebuilds. We don't know the extent, or quality of the previous rebuild. So, I need advice. Can anyone recommend a good machine shop/mechanic who can rebuild a 1937 Buick 248 straight 8? I am in eastern Pennsylvania. Thanks, Greg

Something is knocking. It ain't opportunity. While returning from a 120 mile round trip (through the Poconos - lots of hill climbs) the engine in my 37 Buick coupe began to knock loudly. I pulled over and checked the oil - it was full on the dipstick. Not wanting further damage, I had the car brought home on a flatbed for the last 20 miles. Local mechanic took a look and told me the engine was down 4-1/2 quarts (!), and a rod is likely the source of the noise. I keep a log in the glove compartment. I check air pressure in tires, gasoline level, oil level, and radiator fluid level every time before taking the car out, and note these along with the mileage. There were no oil leaks on the garage floor, and now blow out visible. I don't see any oil burning, either. Where the oil went is a mystery. But that is now irrelevant. Looks like it is time to swallow hard and get the engine rebuilt. I was told by the previous owner it was rebuild only 1500 miles before I purchased it. I've put on another 1500 miles. But the mechanic told me, there are rebuilds, and then there are rebuilds. We don't know the extent, or quality of the previous rebuild. So, I need advice. Can anyone recommend a good machine shop/mechanic who can rebuild a 1937 Buick 248 straight 8? I am in eastern Pennsylvania. Also, since I drive the car with modern (non-detergent) oil and lead free gasoline (with Startron added to combat any ethanol) is there anything else I should consider, such as hardened valve seats? Thanks, Greg

Well, I am going to drive up there - 200 miles - and enjoy it. I will bring a cloth and a few cleaning utensils to get the road dust off. But after a quick wipe down, I'll get down to talking with other owners, and enjoying the show. One quick question - are the cars grouped by make and era, or are they all mixed in with every other car, regardless of year, make, or type?

When I was a kid working on my '62 Olds, my father told me to always change the condenser, along with the rotor, points and plugs, during a tune up. It was a cheap item. Now, I am running a 37 Buick Special (6 volt system, 248 cid straight 8) and am about to tune it up. I got a new set of points, rotor, and cap from Bob's Automobilia. However, I have heard, from several sources now, that about 50% of the condensers out there are bad, right off the shelf, and often fail in a few hundred miles. Can anyone suggest a good source which might supply me with a condenser likely to last longer than that?

I am looking for a grille guard for my 1937 Buick, in the "A" bar style

I added turn signals to my 1937 Buick. It is a 6 volt system, but I installed a 12 volt SLA battery behind the kick panel to power the turn signals, hazard lights, and remote battery disconnect switch. Lights in front are in the fender lights - flashback 12 volt LEDs which are white when turned on as running lights, but turn amber when activated by the turn signal lever. Lights in back are 12 volt amber LEDs mounted in fog lamps, to which I attached glare hoods. Only problem - I continuously forget to turn cancel the signal after making the turn. (The Signal Stat 900 is not self canceling) That means going for miles with the blinker still on. I'd like to add an audible buzzer or beeper to the system. I am using an LED flasher, so no load equalizer. How would I hook up an audible buzzer? I heard somewhere to just connect it to the "pilot" terminal of the flasher.

Thanks for all advice. I have already mapped out a route using secondary roads - no interstates. I realize a Concours is by invitation - I am not at that level. It is the Saturday show I am interested in.

Just joined the Buick Club yesterday. And looking forward to next year's meet in Allentown. Greg

I am planning to drive my 1937 Buick about 200 miles to the Hemmings Concours in Saratoga Springs, NY. The concours is on Sunday, which I will view as a spectator, but on Saturday there is a cruise in, all makes car show. This is my first collector car (I drove a '62 Olds as a daily driver back in the 1980s) and I thought it might be fun to enter the Buick in the show. Having no experience with shows, what can I expect? What advice would you give a newcomer to the hobby? Any tips on driving a prewar auto on a long trip? thanks, Greg

Greg from Pennsylvania - since the age of 10 I wanted to own a prewar American car. Bought a 1937 Buick Coupe 46S last November and have been working on it for nine months. Just got it on the road this weekend for a 60 mile shakedown run. Everything working now except the Trippe lights and the radio.

I've just gotten my '37 Buick Special on the road. I plan to drive it during good weather, with an occasional drive at night. It has the original 6 volt system and headlights. I added two Trippe driving lights. Power comes off of the ignition switch lead via a 14 g wire, with a 15 amp in-line fuse, to a switch mounted on the lip of the dashboard. Two 14 g wires run from the switch to each headlight. Each light is grounded to the bumper bracket. In the garage, the lights worked fine without the engine running. On a short, around the block run at night, I noticed the charging meter indicator dropped below "charging" when the Trippes were turned on, so I turned them off after 20 seconds. Yesterday, I went for a 60 mile shake down cruise yesterday. Everything worked, but while driving about 45 mph I decided to turn on the Trippes to watch the charging meter. It remained above the charging (horizontal) line. After getting home, I tried the lights again. Neither one will turn on when the switch is turned on. The voltmeter tells me there is over 6 volts on the light side of the switch. (the fuse has not blown) From there, the wire runs to the light with the last few feet inside a stainless steel cable, so I cannot check voltage without disassembling and cutting the wiring (all connections were soldered and covered with shrink wrap. Before I do that, I thought I would check the light bulbs themselves. 1. How do I remove the glass lenses to get at the light bulbs? 2. Presuming I find the problem and get the lights to work, is a relay indicated to eliminate the problem with the amount of draw on the battery? 3. Could the bulbs have blown from too much current? 4. Any other suggestions?

I am looking for an A-Bar grille guard for my 1937 Coupe. They are shaped like a horse collar or a capital letter "A." Any leads on where to find one?

When I bought my 37 Buick Coupe, the previous owner had installed side view mirrors which I think were from a Ford Model A. Driver's side is OK. Passenger side is useless. When you are in the driver's seat and look at the passenger side view mirror, it is completely hidden behind the "A" pillar between the windshield and the passenger side window. (See photo) The mirror will not mount above the side window because it prevents the front door from closing due to the narrow clearance. (It is a clamp on mirror.) Even if it did, the arm is not bent enough to enable the mirror to hang down. I have seen some photos where the mirror is mounted above the side mirror, on both the driver and passenger side. What kind or style of mirror is this? Can anyone supply a brand or model number they know will work in this type of application? I recently bought two M-4 "King Bee" style mirrors from Bob's Automobilia but after playing with them I do not think they will work - I cannot rotate the mirror enough to be able to see the area behind the passenger side if I am in the driver's seat. They also require you drilling holes into the door frame to mount.

I am trying to get my '37 Coupe on the road. (Fuel tank sending unit now on it's third stay at the repair shop - has been back and forth since March). I am hoping to drive 200 miles to Saratoga for a show in late September. Then, in early October, another 200 miles to Wildwood, NJ, to see the Race of Gentlemen there. That will be over 800 miles in a week.

I just had this same problem - car cranked several times, but did not start, then starter would not turn at all. Took the starter out to test it. Negative (ground) lead from battery goes to case. Positive lead from battery goes to the motor terminal on the starter. (This terminal is connected to the solenoid by a short, thick, wire) Be sure to use heavy duty, thick, jumper cables. On a replacement starter, I tried to test it by using 8 gauge wire jumper leads. It sparked but did not turn. When I put the starter into the car, it did work.

Yes, called them. Was told they have not been available for a long time and that the supplier has been dancing around the question of future availability for a long time as well. Dave said these are getting hard to find.

Hello Matt,E Exactly, but you will note that Bob's is out of stock. Broke one of mine, replaced it with an early 1937, bulbous shaped lens. The other lens is either a later 1937 lens or a repro and is more pointed. Either is fine, I just want to have a matched set.

Need lens only.

Does anyone know where the Pennsylvania vehicle inspection stickers were placed on the windshield in 1937? Currently, Pennsylvania inspection stickers on the driver's side, but I have heard during some periods in the past, they were applied to the passenger side.

I purchased 6 volt red LED dual contact "bulb" for the tail and brake lights - just plugged them in and they work. Tried 6 volt white LED light replacement for the size 55 bulb in the map light - the incandescent bulb gave better light. Have tried, and was told, that there are NO 6 volt Amber LEDs out there. That is what convinced me to use a 12 volt stand alone system. Also there are no switchback 6 volt LEDs either. The main reason for LEDs is visibility and safety. Too many people texting or talking on cell phones out there. I don't want to alter the originality of the car permanently, either. Will be using small, rear facing amber lights mounted to the bumber for rear turn signals.

Great idea. However, using a pair of wire strippers, it looks like the wire leads on the flasher, bulb sockets, and turn signal are actually 16 or 18 gauge. Is there a more accurate way of measuring stranded wire? The wire can be stripped using 14, 16, or 18 gauge holes on the stripper, although the 18 gauge hole does end up cutting off one copper strand.

I am adding turn signals to my 1937 Buick Coupe. It is a 6 volt system, which I am keeping. The turn signals will be a stand alone, 12 volt system, powered by a small, 12 volt SLA battery with 2.9 AH. The lights themselves will be 12 volt LED - two amber lights for rear turn signals, and two switchback lights in the fender light housings for front white running lights and when the turn signal is activated, amber directional signals. I would like to install an inline fuse between the battery, and the LED three prong flasher. How do I determine what size fuse to use? I have basic knowledge of electricity and can use a multimeter.

There are 6 volt LED lights available, but in limited selection. No 6 volt amber LED bulbs, for example, but there are amber colored bulb sleeves you can use. You can also use a small, SLA 12 volt battery to run 12 volt LED running lights and turn signals on a separate, stand alone system. An advantage of this is you can use a 6 volt bulb which is white to use as a running light, but when the turn signal switch is activated it turns color to amber and blinks. Brake lights are more problematic. There are red and white 6 volt, dual filament LEDs. Adding a 12 volt LED brake light to the 6 volt system is more complicated. Some 12 volt LEDs will work in 6 volt bases, but will not be as bright. Others won't work at all. Many LED bulbs are also polarized so will not work if put in backwards, but incandescent bulbs work either way.

Roger, do you have a 6 volt system? Are the third brake lights LED bulbs?