gregleck

A brand new radiator was put in during the rebuild. After that, it never sat with the cap off. Absolutely possible. During the initial rebuild, a new radiator was put in. It could have sat around. BUT I then put 2000 miles on the car, including a three day, 1400 mile trip, with no problems with overheating whatsoever. The initial overheating problem was minor and apparently due to a faulty fan controller. During that time in the shop, the upper radiator hose was cut to allow installation of a filler neck. Radiator could have been open then. After that problem was fixed, overheating problem was much worse. I paid $2400 to fix this problem, with most of that cost coming after the fan controller was replaced. A brand new radiator was put in. If this was due to someone shoving a rag into the radiator, I think the bill should be adjusted. If a mouse got in there, it happened at the garage, not while the car was in my possession.

have google searched it without luck. but "GM part number 383050" comes up as "switch"

If cap was left off, it was left off at the shop. Another theory - rag used to plug port or hose, forgotten and then got pushed into radiator. During first visit, when fan controller was replaced, upper radiator hose was cut to install a filler neck and cap since original filler neck on top of radiator is under grill shell with about 2 inches of clearance, making inspection/filling very difficult. I don't see how a mouse would have crawled into a radiator which was filled with coolant. I have the radiator and can cut it open. Finding a mouse skeleton would certainly prove the mouse nest theory.

Have a 1936 Auburn kit, circa 1976, which was poorly put together by original owner. After purchase, had entire car taken apart down to the frame. 1. Complete, ground up restoration finished August, 2019. In the fall, noted occasional sweet smell of burning antifreeze. Car not driven over winter. In June 2020, after 1400 mile trip without overheating, coolant level was down one pint. Added water. 2. During a continuous, 225 mile long high speed (75 mph) run, noted temperature above 210 F. Coolant level down about 3 pints. Filled with Prestone antifreeze. 3. Took car in to shop. Fan controller has two contacts, one found not to work, second one working and would turn fan on occasionally. Controller was replaced. Radiator was new installation when restoration done. Filled with new coolant. 4. Drove car on secondary roads, 40 – 50 mph, for 35 miles. Car overheated, coolant boiling in overflow tank. Towed car to garage. 5. Thermostat replaced, fan controller checked and working. Replaced temperature gauge and sending unit. Replaced water pump. Still overheating. Scope used to inspect radiator; large amount of hair-like fibers and clumps noted. Radiator removed. Engine block flushed but no material recovered. 6. Replaced radiator. Now car running cool, 160F and up to 165F when sitting in traffic. 7. Old radiator contains large amount of hair like fibers. Burns when lit with a match. (See photo) What the hell is this stuff that was clogging up the radiator? I can see it when a light is shone down the radiator fill neck. Note - I never added stop leak or other additives.

Sound advice, especially coupled with the observation about safety. Forty years ago, I picked up this same model car from a tire shop. Unbeknownst to me, someone pulled the brake hose out and the wheel rubbed against it. Two miles down the road traffic stopped and the pedal when to the floor. Pumping the brakes brought the car to a stop. Brake reservoir was full. No leaks in system but when pressurized, fluid sprayed out of the worn spot in the brake hose. Looks like after the rebuilds, cylinders, drums and shoes will get a good going over.

part number 383050 is listed as a "switch." Is that correct?

Looking for a Bendix power brake booster for 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 to use as core for rebuild.

How would I find the original GM part number for the Bendix brake booster? I see NOS boosters for sale but the sellers usually don't know the year and model the part is for. There is a part number on the box, though. In this case, the 1962 booster was also used in the prior year models.

Forgot to mention that there is a loud hissing sound whenever pressure is applied to the brake pedal. No leaks from master cylinder. I spoke to Brake Boosters last week - they said to expect 6 to 12 weeks turnaround now with COVID

Brake booster on my 1962 Olds Dynamic 88 is leaking - on long, steep hills the vacuum is lost and pedal goes to the floor. Since the car can still be driven, I decided to find a used replacement, have it rebuilt, then install it. (No NOS or rebuilt available) When the part arrived, I saw it did not match the one in my car. Booster in my car - black colored vacuum cylinder = Bendix booster Used booster part - bronze colored vacuum cylinder = Moraine booster Are these interchangeable? Master cylinders for each are different too. Thanks, Greg

Thanks, Joe - a big help to know the format number Regarding the socket and bulb which is connected to a wire (not the printed circuit) for the automatic gear shift indicator - is that a generic bulb and socket?

I pulled the speedometer out from my 62' Olds to have it repaired. While it was out, I was wondering about replacing the light bulbs. 1. The socket and bulb which illuminate the Hydramatic gear selector position are missing. Someone previously cut the wire and taped it. Does anyone know if the bulb and socket are the generic bulb and socket for most 1960s GM cars? 2. The dashboard indicator lights are run off a printed circuit. The sockets simply plug into the back of the instrument cluster, and the bulb has what I believe is called a wedge base. Is it possible to replace these bulbs with a compatible LED wedge base bulb for brighter light?

I am a new owner of a speedster and just completed a 450 mile trip - top down, no windows or tonneau cover. Had it up to 80 mph at times and was often above 60 mph. The wind buffeting not only bothered my ears, but often reached the point where my scalp hurt from the constant, violent movement of my hair. I had a flat newsboy cap but was in constant fear that it was going to be blown off my head and into traffic behind me. What do others wear when driving at higher speeds in open roadsters or speedsters?

Had the same problem in my 37 Buick. You can get your starter motor rebuilt with a high torque field coil. Made a huge difference in my case. Could not start when heat soaked and always had to wait to restart - got to the point I didn't dare turn the engine off.

Speedometer stopped working on my '62 Olds Dynamic 88. Found the pin in the transmission had broken off. Removed pin with a pair a needle nose pliers, and covered the port with a plastic cap. Unscrewed the speedometer cable from the speedometer, and pulled the cable out from under the car. The big mistake I made was not attaching a line to the end of the speedometer cable when I pulled it out, to allow me to pull the new one in. I just spent two hours fruitless trying to thread the new cable into place. According to the shop manual it goes through a rubber grommet in the floor, then through another hole and hooks 180 degrees to the right and then out under the car. Cannot see, let alone feel, this route, from either inside the cabin or under the car. The cable has a 90 degree guard on the section which attaches to the speedometer, and a spring on the end which attaches to the transmission. Any hints on how to replace the cable? Which direction is easier? I am going to try and thread a flexible piece of plastic first to use as a tow line for some small diameter metal cable, and then use that to pull the speedometer cable through, but I am not optimistic.

I pulled a wheel from my 62 Olds Dynamic 88 yesterday. Master cylinder (original, single chamber design) has remained full since purchase three years ago and brakes work fine. Brake cylinder appears to be in good shape and shoes (bonded) and drums look good but springs are rusted. Brake adjusting ports were all missing the rubber plugs when I purchased the car so I replaced them at that time. I am thinking about rebuilding the system. 1. Have not found a good source for kits for this model - springs, brake cylinders, brake hoses. Can reuse shoes. Any suggestions on suppliers? 2. Would be interested in replacing master cylinder with newer, two chamber design. Sources? 3. Power booster seems to be working just fine, but again, might as well go the whole nine yards and have it rebuild. Any suggestions? 4. Don't know what type of brake fluid is in the system now, but will likely change to DOT 5 Thanks Greg

Actually, I checked with them first, and was told, no, they do not have either of these items

Big help! The actuator assembly (everything in diagram but the rod and the lever) arrived today. Thanks!

I have now found a NOS part which I am told was for a 1962 Starfire. Will this interchange with the turn signal actuator for the 1962 Dynamic 88? No returns and it is pricey, so I'd like to be certain.

Does anyone know of a source for the following? 1. A square head fastener which holds the hard rubber inside wheel well to the bottom of the front bumper. 2. The round grommet used in the bottom of the battery compartment, in the hole used for the parking light and turn signal light wires to reach the parking light assembly. And finally, any suggestions for material to use to repair small tears in the rubber wheel well wall?

I need the turn signal actuator assembly for my 1962 Olds Dynamic 88. This is located inside the steering column and connects to the turn signal switch mounted below on the top of the steering column. Did other divisions (e.g. Chevrolet) use the same assembly and can they be interchanged?

I am looking for the turn signal assembly (the part which is inside the steering column, not the part under the dash on top of the column) for my 62 Olds Dynamic 88. I also need the front parking light/signal light housing which sits inside the bumper Greg

Great suggestion - I'll check the grounding on the parking light to start.

I was planning to drive my 1962 Oldsmobile 88 250 miles to the Hemmings Cruise In and Concours this weekend. Front seat was out to have tunnels put in for seat belts, so I could not take it in for inspection when it was due back in July. Seat went in Sundday. Car failed inspection on Monday due to inoperable turn signal on passenger side. This turn signal works intermittently - I have gotten out of vehicle to look at front and rear signals when turn signal indicator is working and the signals are working at that time. Other times passenger side indicator light is not lighting up and signals on passenger side are not working. Driver's side turn signals working consistently. Passenger brake light and parking light are operable. Flasher was hot to the tough when turn signal lever was being activated. Replaced flasher - still not working. That leaves either the turn signal switch, which is located on the steering column under the dash, or the turn signal actuator assembly inside the steering column as the likely sources of the problem. What would you suggest as the next step? Going to Hemmings now looks like a forlorn hope.

I think this is an after market speedometer unit. This car, although claimed to be "original" at some point had the transmission tailpiece replaced with a unit from a 1963 transmission. In that year, the speedometer cable ran off the driver's side front wheel and there was no attachment for it on the tailpiece. Since my '62 had no attachment at the front wheel, someone rigged this up to get the speedometer to work. A sensor picks up magnets mounted on the driveshaft. I replaced the transmission with a 1962 transmission so the speedometer got hooked back up the way it was designed. thanks all!