countrytravler Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Getting it to run and brakes. Someone (probably Al Smith put a 7 1/4 3.21 rear end. Looks factory. This should go down the road at 70 with no problem. This car is for sale. Edited September 19, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Doesn't matter what angle the 34 photos are taken at still look good.What happened to the blue........41 is it ? Looks like someone clipped the rear of the car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 Doesn't matter what angle the 34 photos are taken at still look good.What happened to the blue........41 is it ? Looks like someone clipped the rear of the car.Good eye! We just picked it up to go to Copart. Grundy? totalled it. 107 mile since completion. It was hit 2 weeks ago at our local car gathering. An older gentlemen got into his 70s? El Camino and thought he was hitting the brake and it was the gas and it stuck wide open flying across the parking lot and hit this car and shoved it into a 50s Ford pickup. Thank god that nobody was hurt except the pride. Nobody upset or mad. That is the kind of people to have around us. In my opinion, I think it wasn't that badly hit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 17, 2015 Author Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) First thing done to the 34 was to pull the l.r. tire off for repair. Bad tube. Pull the plugs and inspected the cylinders with my periscope with light. All looks clean with little carbon and shot some oil in the cylinders. Plugs and points look good. Have the batt charger on for the night. Blew all the cobwebs and Black Widows to a new home. (OUTSIDE). Cable on the drivers side of transmission for freewheeling? All the shields are intact and the front end is tight. Frame looks grat with no signs of being hit. Just a little play in the gear box. Will take pictures of the underside and post later. Till next time.Dave Edited September 17, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Lincoln Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Great looking car ... I am with Ian ... 34`s look good from any angle .. Keep on posting pics 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpcdfan Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 Getting it to run and brakes. Someone (probally Al Smith put a 7 1/4 3.21 rear end. Looks factory. This should go down the road at 70 with no problem.Dave… Yes Al Smith used to put late model MOPAR A body rear ends under his cars to make them more driveable. My understanding is they bolt right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Spent a couple of hours on the car today. the tube was bad, replaced with new. 15.00 for the tube and 5.00 labor. I got that much or close to it in the 80s when I had my gas stations in Detroit. Pulled all the drums. Brakes shoes and wheel cylinders are like new. No crud behind the wheel cylinder boots. Add brake fluid and let it gravity bleed and we have a nice firm pedal. Put the charger on the batt (10 years old) and it held a charge. I pushed the starter pedal and nothing. Has power to the starter but no engagement. Pulled the cable and cleaned and walla! Turns over but no spark. Oil gauge shows 35 pounds. Until nest time. Edited September 19, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Dave, thankyou for posting the pics.......now I can visualise how the freewheeling cable is mounted........I just have to find the little bracket ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Dave, thankyou for posting the pics.......now I can visualise how the freewheeling cable is mounted........I just have to find the little bracket !I can do more-better pictures if needed. Do you need any other pictures? This would be a nice car in your part of the world. Edited September 19, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Lincoln Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Ian .. I made my bracket in brass ... Be nice and I will see what I can do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Always nice ....ha 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Dave,would be nice but space, time and bank balance are in a little short supply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Wouldn't I love to have both sides of the bonnet open at once like that! DC is one side at a time. It is a proper ##$$%^^%# pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) Wouldn't I love to have both sides of the bonnet open at once like that! DC is one side at a time. It is a proper ##$$%^^%# pain.A good friend of mine used to make hood support rod (aka, "hood holder") for the cars like ours so as to be able to open both sides of the hood at the same time. They look like this....and they clamp to the radiator support rods....I will be making a pair for my '31 DH6s. Edited September 20, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) Arrr. Light bulb moment. I hadn't thought of that - slow, eh? Here are a couple... http://www.hotrodproducts.com/Hood-Prop-Kits.htm http://www.est1946.com/stainlesssteelhoodsupport.aspx Edited September 20, 2015 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken_Lincoln Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Ian ... My bracket now has a brother ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Ken........your bloods worth bottling !!!!!John, those bonnet supports are available from Macs Auto Supplies, that's where I got mine from Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) I'm not posting this as criticism but as more of a desire for folks opinions. From all I can determine, Dodges of this era used bolts that were stamped with a DB logo on the head. My DL had most of its original bolts, and wherever possible, I cleaned them up and reused them. This begs the question - are eighty year old bolts safe to use in areas like motor mounts and other high stress situations? Grade eight bolts would probably be better, although most of them are undoubtedly made in China, so who knows what you're really getting? Also, the rest of the steel on the car is eighty years old, so should I replace that, too? Those brackets look great, but the Phillip head screws and the modern marks on the bolt heads bother me. Call me compulsive, but I ground off the modern markings on my replacement bolts and found the correct slotted screws used during my cars era. A stupid waste of time? Edited September 20, 2015 by Taylormade (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Taylormade....there is nothing wrong at all with trying to get the correct, factory bolt look. I will reuse as many as the original bolts that I can on my cars. After all....this club is about restorations which includes the factory bolt look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 Cleaned the frame to find the frame #s. No luck so far. Repacking wheel bearings and a little polish on the chrome. Also the vin, firewall and engine #s shown. Going to get the build card. What it the current web for that? Also told this black widow to find a new home.ThanksDave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 I'm not posting this as criticism but as more of a desire for folks opinions. From all I can determine, Dodges of this era used bolts that were stamped with a DB logo on the head. My DL had most of its original bolts, and wherever possible, I cleaned them up and reused them. . . .The original bolts on my '33 Plymouth are also marked with DB inside a circle. I too reused as many as I could. There are custom bolt manufacturers and from time to time I have wondered how much it would cost to have a batch of bolts made up with that old logo. Even though there are a huge number of sizes of bolts listed in the parts book it seemed like the vast majority on my car were either 5/16 course or 3/8 fine and even in there seems like 3/4" or 1" long threads. Being the lazy type, not wanting to grind off the hardness markings and then refinish the raw metal, I bought a couple of boxes of "hex cap screws" (to use the parts book terminology) with no markings in what appeared to be the most common sizes used on my car. Basically ungraded bolts with a low strength rating. But I figured that was pretty much what was used originally anyway outside of a few critical areas in the drivetrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 Cleaned the frame to find the frame #s. No luck so far. Repacking wheel bearings and a little polish on the chrome. Also the vin, firewall and engine #s shown. Going to get the build card. What it the current web for that? Also told this black widow to find a new home.ThanksDaveOn my '33 Plymouth the engine number is stamped between the running board supports on the driver side. Might be there on your '34 Dodge too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) On my '33 Plymouth the engine number is stamped between the running board supports on the driver side. Might be there on your '34 Dodge too.Same as the location on my friend's 1933 DeSoto frame....and more than one set of the same numbers. Edited September 20, 2015 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countrytravler Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 (edited) The 1st picture is from the 33 Dodge DP 4 dr sedan. Numbers are near the gear box.2nd pictured is a 34 Dodge that somebody on here is restoring. Edited September 20, 2015 by countrytravler (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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