Help buying a 1969 Mustang Sportsroof

[Guest myh_302]

I'm looking into buying a 1969 Ford Mustang Sportsroof as a weekend car. However, i'm not really that experienced with these classic mustangs so I was hoping for some advice!

The car that I found is a 1969 Ford Mustang Sportsroof. It is not a Mach 1 although it does have the stripes.

Rebuilt 302 engine with new pistons and everything.

Rebuilt C6 automatic transmission (owner claims 120,000 on the frame and the engine and tranny is new).

New dual exhaust and mufflers

New shocks and springs

Original front disk brakes but with new pads

Last painted around 20 years ago

I was told that the only rust spot on the car is the rocker panel.

The owner says he bought it 7 years ago off a guy who rebuilt it, and since then he has installed the above parts.

Listed price is 13,500 CAD

The car is a 4 hour drive away, so do you guys think its worth the asking price? And how much would it cost to fix the rusted rocker panel?

Looking forward to learning a lot off this forum!

Thanks!

Edited December 15, 2013 by myh_302 (see edit history)

[28 Chrysler]

Look under the car at the rear frame rails and run your hands inside the 1/4 panels beween the trunk floor and the outside sheet metal.

These were the first places were rust would start. I have seen the rear springs sticking up above the trunk floor.

[Guest myh_302]

I'll make sure to properly inspect the car before making a purchase, I just wanted to see if you guys think its a good deal looking at the pictures, if its worth the 4 hour drive and the asking price.

Thanks

[Joe Cocuzza]

As stated above look at the underside of the car - floors especially - lift up those mats and see what's lurking.

Check the lower radiator support and the front frame sections. They were prone to rotting out.

Is it the original engine to the car? This can make a big difference in price. The engine codes for a 302 are "F" - standard 302 - and "G" for BOSS 302 (has a 4 barrel carb)

If it is the standard 302 the average value is around $12,000

If it is a BOSS 302 then the car is worth much more.

I would check it out thoroughly and then work on the price with condition in mind.

Bring a refrigerator (soft) magnet (like a magnetic calendar) with you and check the rear quarter panel and everywhere else on the car for bondo. If it don't stick then there is bondo under the paint. Not necessarily a bad thing but it would warrant further investigating.

Looks like the seats need redoing, too.

[Fleek]

There is no way to know the value until it is inspected. There are several fastback models listed in the NADA classic car guide, so you will need to determine exactly which model it is and and the overall condition to even start figuring a fair price. You might start by researching which fastback model first from the data plates on the car and then use a good guide to find a starting place for the price considering the condition.

[alsancle]

Price seems a bit high. Mustangs are everywhere so find one closer that is easier to inspect. Also, that engine is one rung up from a 6 banger.

[Bleach]

For 13.5K I would expect this car needing absolutely no work. The rust that's visible may only the tip of the ice berg.

Best to keep looking.

[Guest myh_302]

For 13.5K I would expect this car needing absolutely no work. The rust that's visible may only the tip of the ice berg.

Best to keep looking.

I have been looking for quite a while and I haven't seen a car that isn't a rust bucket for 13K or so, do you think the car has only been cosmetically repaired on the outside with the inner parts still being rusty?

[Guest my3buicks]

+ 1 What DJ said!!

[karguy12]

I disagree that the car seems wildly over priced. Nice sportsroof 69's rarely sell for under 10k these days. It's a fairly basic model without the deluxe interior, non fold down rear seat, basic engine and not a lot of options that would bump up the value, so the true value is going to be IS THE BODY SOLID. It may even have been a former six cylinder model with an added V-8 which is really no big deal but that would affect value about 5%. If the driver's door is original there will be a tag that matches the VIN with some codes that will tell you what engine, trans, color the car was originally.

It is unusual for a Mustang to START rusting in the rockers as they were heavily galvanized rockers from the factory so that raises a red flag. Mostly they will rust in the floors and what they call the torque boxes which is basically the body structure right behind the front wheels. A good gauge for rust will be the rear spring shackle mounts just behind the taillight panel. If these are rusted out, swollen with rust or weak you can expect rust in the torque boxes. Also check the front apron tops where the sheetmetal overlaps and inside all fender openings. Beware of heavy undercoating on vintage Mustangs. My opinion is that if the body passes the detailed rust inspection it is a fairly priced car. Engine should be painted Ford Blue though as soon as possible lol. It is not a bad thing that it has the Mach1 stripes and spoiler as that dresses it up a bit without really hurting the value. If you have been looking and have not found anything why not take the drive and make an offer. It's never a bad day to go look at an old car.

[Guest Henry White]

IMO, for that price rust should be the only deal maker or breaker. Rust is the biggest concern for most any car it seems. Granted car prices are way down, but 13K isnt much these days.

I once heard a tale of a Mustang which was sold at Carlisle which some unethical seller had bondo'ed the subframe. Anyone who would mask over structural rust out like that should go to jail. If such a car is licensed and driven it is a death trap.

Years ago my brother sold a guy a gold fastback Mustang, the guy hit a pole in the middle of Frederick MD, I think on his first night of owning the car, and it split the car clean in two just behind the drivers seat. IIRC he walked away.

[Guest myh_302]

I disagree that the car seems wildly over priced. Nice sportsroof 69's rarely sell for under 10k these days. It's a fairly basic model without the deluxe interior, non fold down rear seat, basic engine and not a lot of options that would bump up the value, so the true value is going to be IS THE BODY SOLID. It may even have been a former six cylinder model with an added V-8 which is really no big deal but that would affect value about 5%. If the driver's door is original there will be a tag that matches the VIN with some codes that will tell you what engine, trans, color the car was originally.

It is unusual for a Mustang to START rusting in the rockers as they were heavily galvanized rockers from the factory so that raises a red flag. Mostly they will rust in the floors and what they call the torque boxes which is basically the body structure right behind the front wheels. A good gauge for rust will be the rear spring shackle mounts just behind the taillight panel. If these are rusted out, swollen with rust or weak you can expect rust in the torque boxes. Also check the front apron tops where the sheetmetal overlaps and inside all fender openings. Beware of heavy undercoating on vintage Mustangs. My opinion is that if the body passes the detailed rust inspection it is a fairly priced car. Engine should be painted Ford Blue though as soon as possible lol. It is not a bad thing that it has the Mach1 stripes and spoiler as that dresses it up a bit without really hurting the value. If you have been looking and have not found anything why not take the drive and make an offer. It's never a bad day to go look at an old car.

Thanks for the info! I asked the owner to send me the VIN, but no response yet. I'd hate it to be a 6 cylinder because i've heard it would need a lot of upgrades to help it with the weight up front, not sure if thats completely true or necessary. I'll be taking a magnet with me to check for bondo. I just hope there isn't any rust, cause I don't want to drive 4 hours and then find out its a rust bucket and drive 4 hours back ....

IMO, for that price rust should be the only deal maker or breaker. Rust is the biggest concern for most any car it seems. Granted car prices are way down, but 13K isnt much these days.

I once heard a tale of a Mustang which was sold at Carlisle which some unethical seller had bondo'ed the subframe. Anyone who would mask over structural rust out like that should go to jail. If such a car is licensed and driven it is a death trap.

Years ago my brother sold a guy a gold fastback Mustang, the guy hit a pole in the middle of Frederick MD, I think on his first night of owning the car, and it split the car clean in two just behind the drivers seat. IIRC he walked away.

The car that split in two had its frame bondo'ed??!! ....

[JACK M]

In the earlier years the 6 cyl had much lighter suspension. Dont know if they went away from that by 69, but they were falcons first.

[Bleach]

I don't think a six was available on a sports roof. This car has five lug wheels so it may not have ever been a six as sixes had four lug wheels.

[Guest myh_302]

Yeah i'm pretty sure its a V8, because the owner told me that the engine has only been rebuilt, not replaced. And this car has stock front disc brakes, which as far as I know, were not offered on sixers.

[Guest Henry White]

The car that split in two had its frame bondo'ed??!! ....

No, different car. I dont know any more about either car. This was many years ago.