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Need help with dynaflow transmission rebuild


Guest Anthony Soliz

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Guest Anthony Soliz

I need to know if there is any body or place in north Florida to have a dynaflow transmission rebuild. I have a 1960 Buick LeSabre it won't drive right. I would like to have it fixed but they said it would cost up to $2000 to $3000. I need to know if this is a good price or not. So any help would be great.

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I would suggest taking the car to the rebuilder and having them do the full R&R and testing. Then you take the car out and test it.

It is 5:40 here in New York. Many of the transmission rebuilders are done work for the day and are probably thinking up stupid excuses for why they couldn't fix a transmission right.

I have one sitting in the garage right now that whines loudly when I put it into drive or reverse. I was told BY THE TRANSMISSION REBUILDER, my engine vacuum is too high and I need to take it to an engine mechanic to lower the vacuum.

The sad part is that my nephew and I decided to take it to a professional because they would have day to day experience. We didn't know the guy spends his spare time hanging around corn fields and humming "If I Only Had a Brain".

Be very suspicious of anyone younger than your transmission.

Bernie

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Guest Anthony Soliz

Does anybody know a good shop to take it to. Also do you think I could rebuild it my self or know somebody in Florida or Indiana who can help me rebuild it. I'm in the Army right now in Hawaii and will be back states side in the end of the year. So any help would be great.

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Guest shadetree77

Well, it's not Florida or Indiana but I've heard good things about this fellow. I haven't spoken to him directly, just heard good things. Here's his contact info.

Jim Hughes

Jim's Dynaflow Service

Perrysburg, OH

419-874-2393

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Anthony, before taking the car anywhere, please try to explain what you mean by not driving right. Dynaflows have a different feeling to them than the transmissions that came after them. I hate to see people spending good money on something that may not be broken, but is just different.

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Guest Anthony Soliz

They tell me it rolls back when they put it in park and something about when they drive it. Its at my dads house so I don't know what it is doing for sure. They took it to a shop and they told them somebody tried to fix it and did a bad job. When I drove it, it drove ok but it rolled back when I would park so I don't know if it was just rigged up to drive ok for a few miles then brake down. Any help would be great.

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Could be simply a linkage adjustment or broken park pawl. Having successfully rebuilt several 55 and 57 trannys I can tell you they are fairly simple as far as automatics go. You will have to fabricate or jerry rig a few special tools but nothing too hard to do with basic tools and ingenuity. Pars are readily available should it come to that. The shop manual is absoluty essential but will walk you through every step in a logical manner.

Personally I think everyone should rebuid at least one automatic trans. After you are sucessfull you will feel you can do or fix anything..........Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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Rolling in park may be just a linkage adjustment. One nice thing about the Dynaflow is that there are a lot of different adjustments available without pulling the transmission. You said it drove ok for you. It sounds like it does not need a rebuild. If it goes in drive, low and reverse, I would recommend you do not take it to another trans shop just yet, but instead just make sure the parking brake works and use it each time.

It may be that who ever is driving it is just not used to the feeling of the dynaflow when it takes off. Todays car feel engaged while the dynaflow will make the engine sound like it's working hard and the trans is slipping. Yet, that was it's design. It is an erie feeling especially if the car is not driven very often. And if the car rolls after placing it in park the driver reporting these problems to you may just be lacking confidence. Try to hold tight till you can get home and really put some miles on it.

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Guest Anthony Soliz

Ok will wait tell i get back home. Does anybody have a shop manual or transmission manual they could send me. Would love to have both if they are two books. This is because I have two 1960 Buick's a Electra and a LeSaber. I love Buick's and will try my best to keep them on the road no matter what it takes. Thanks for the help.

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Rolling in park may be just a linkage adjustment. One nice thing about the Dynaflow is that there are a lot of different adjustments available without pulling the transmission. You said it drove ok for you. It sounds like it does not need a rebuild. If it goes in drive, low and reverse, I would recommend you do not take it to another trans shop just yet, but instead just make sure the parking brake works and use it each time.

It may be that who ever is driving it is just not used to the feeling of the dynaflow when it takes off. Todays car feel engaged while the dynaflow will make the engine sound like it's working hard and the trans is slipping. Yet, that was it's design. It is an erie feeling especially if the car is not driven very often. And if the car rolls after placing it in park the driver reporting these problems to you may just be lacking confidence. Try to hold tight till you can get home and really put some miles on it.

Cool John. However that slipping nature you refer to was true to only about 1952 and especially up to and including 1949 but by 55 they had the dynaflow fairly tweeked and by 57 , 60 and onward the transmission is very responsive and delivers movement instantly. A marriage of ultra torque with improved internal torque converter & vane dynamics.

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I have not driven anything newer than a 57. I am sure you are correct David. I am also sure that no matter where the car is brought someone will recommend a rebuild, regardless if it is needed or not. With prices coming in at over $1,000 for the work, and with Anthony in the service in Hawaii, my real recommendation is for Anthony to wait to judge the situation for himself. Since he has two cars which are pretty much identical, a drive in both ought to identify if a rebuild is really needed. Who knows, it may be slipping out of park because of motor or transmission mounts?

Short story, but true: I know someone who bought a 49 Super somewhere in the mid south. He flew there, and then drove the car to Georgia to show his father. Then he drove his car to Upstate NY. THEN he calls and says aomething is wrong with the transmission and takes it to a place ( I unfortunately recommended) where they jump on a $1,800 rebuild. Now, in my assessment of this I ask; if it made it from Georgia to here, what could have gone wrong that it needed all that work? Not saying it didn't need the work. I never assessed it personally. But I am highly suspect that the mechanic simply needed to make a mortgage payment and saw $$$ walking through the door. And I would hope to spare Anthony that situation.

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Guest btate

Jim Hughes is the only way to go. Freight is not that much to Perryville, Ohio. dynaflow is the only transmission Jim builds and his price is about 1/2 what you are quoting. Recently he rebuilt mine and it is great

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Guest Anthony Soliz
Jim Hughes is the only way to go. Freight is not that much to Perryville, Ohio. dynaflow is the only transmission Jim builds and his price is about 1/2 what you are quoting. Recently he rebuilt mine and it is great

How much did it cost for you to have your transmission rebuilt? I might just have to send it out to save money. I will see how it goes.

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Guest btate
How much did it cost for you to have your transmission rebuilt? I might just have to send it out to save money. I will see how it goes.

I believe it was approximate. $800.00

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$800 + shipping is a real good deal, especially for a job from someone with a good reputation. The basic kit goes for a couple hundred bucks. Leaving $600 for labor. Shops that fumble around, not knowing what they are doing, charge $80 to $120 per hour and brag about their warranty service. If it needs to be done that's where I'd send mine if I didn't do it myself.

Buicks generally live a pretty easy life. My '60 Dynaflow is doing fine at 53 years old. It never sat for a long time. Dry out a Dynaflow and you have potential for problems. Well, leaving a car sit for years is a killer anyway. Everything you would have worn out driving a car goes to hell from just sitting. Better to drive it and restore it multiple times than let it sit around being :saved".

Bernie

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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Guest Anthony Soliz

Just got off the phone with the shop. They told me that the transmission must have been dry on the inside for a long time and it had rust in it. So now I have to have a full rebuild also new gears and some bands reworked it needs the works. So all in is going to cost me all most $2800. He want half up front to start. So I need to know if there is any place to get all the parts to do the rebuild gears and all. Thanks for info.

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They tell me it rolls back when they put it in park and something about when they drive it. Its at my dads house so I don't know what it is doing for sure. They took it to a shop and they told them somebody tried to fix it and did a bad job. When I drove it, it drove ok but it rolled back when I would park so I don't know if it was just rigged up to drive ok for a few miles then brake down. Any help would be great.

Them there Dynaflows sure are one tough trannies. Your's is dry inside and full of rust but gall durn it it still can be driven, go figure.

If I were you Anthony I would take a real deep breath and wait until you are home and can approach the situation in a calm rational manner. In the mean time educate yourself vis-avis Dynaflows, parts availability, and local help that isn't out to skin you alive.............Bob

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I have been considering reopening a collector car service shop. The rate would probably be in the $250 per hour range. That is not bad when one considers the rate would be for a very high percentage of productive time. Many shops out there are charging to learn. Many are not capable of evaluating the condition of components. They think wholesale replacement or rebuilt replacements will make everything better again. It doesn't.

Some shops stay away from collector car work because they have to satisfy the owner PLUS all his picky friends, anyone who informally judges the car on the street, and, potentially, a bunch of forum readers, contributors, and critics. That is a scary list of critique-rs.

Then there is the assumed cradle to grave unlimited warranty of any of any component attached within 25 feet of the part serviced.

Throw that in with not really knowing what you are doing.

In this case there are rusty parts internal to the transmission that are in question. Risk management policy says "Don't reuse them." I understand that. I also know of a disassembled Bentley engine that spent way too many years stored in a chicken coop. There's a corrosive acid environment and you don't just toss Bentley parts an buy new. That engine performs flawlessly today. A lot of neglected Dynaflows have had their innards cleaned by a "driving" flush.

Old cars just ain't easy. They are not an end goal to be project managed. They are a work in progress, WIP (sometimes with an "H") Live it, learn it, and love it. I was going to write that starting with farm it out, but three terms starting with "F" got me laughing and I knew the Boss wouldn't like it.

On this car, back off and be patient. The right string of events will come along and there will be a net positive outcome as long as you don't push it.

Bernie

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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Guest btate
I believe it was approximate. $800.00

I looked it up. It was $850. Plus $40. for something ----don't remember right off

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Guest Anthony Soliz

I think I'm just going to try to get a list together of all the parts I need to do a full rebuild gears and all. Then I going to try to find someone welling to show me how to rebuild and do it with their help. Because when all the old times are gone nobody is going to know how to work on them. I love these cars and don't want to see them crusted. So if any of you got a parts list it would help me much also a place to get the gears or to have the gears fixed. So if any old timer is welling to show a young guy how to work on them let me know. Thanks for all the help.

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Guest btate

Jim included several new and updated parts, so that would something you would miss out on and that is the only type transmission he will work on

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Let me offer up this thread for your consideration:

http://forums.aaca.org/f162/dynaflow-rebuild-finally-338725.html

In my recent experience, the hard parts are just that - hard to find. And very expensive. Try FATSCO for things you might need. You'll also need access to a machine shop - it is possible some parts can be saved. Be wary of some of the soft part sellers - they use inferior clutch packs, seals, etc. From my research, $800 is a competitive price if the shop is doing a rebuild and replacing normally worn parts and not much else is wrong with the unit. I've heard good things about Jims Dynaflow and he was on my candidate list. Additionally, the prices for rebuilding these, even with issues, is all over the map and cheapest isn't always best. Find a shop, visit the shop, see the persons work, interview the person. Reputable owners and rebuilders will make the time and appreciate this. Know if your unit has been rebuilt before or not, because it might not have been put together right. Mine wasn't and while I got 40,000 miles out of it, and it was full of metal when it was opened up last year. I have had both bad and good experience having someone rebuilding a dynaflow. If you are mechanically inclined and willing to take time and properly measure parts or have access to a machine shop to clean up any "used" parts you may acquire (make sure they are useable "used" parts" and the unit is "correct", you could probably rebuild it yourself. If it were only bands, seals, clutch packs, I would give it a try and take lots of pictures, get a shop manual, a big bench to lay everything out inan orderly fashion uncluttered. However, it sounds like you have to replace all the parts, get help or find a good shop. It isn't cheap and you don't want to get stuck. Another thing - don't assume you can take the unit apart and then take the pieces to a rebuilder and have them accept putting it all back together right. Few are willing to do that. Also, if possible, get the whole car to them so they do the install, road test, and if something isn't right, they can tear back into it and fix it on the spot and you can road test it before you pay for it and avoid bantering over the phone of if it really has a problem or not. Another option might be keep your eyes open for a known good working unit someone is trying to sell. Not trying to scare you, just gather information, think it through and go into this eyes open. Take your time.

Edited by KAD36 (see edit history)
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