NC-car-guy Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Can I ask why? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Can I ask why?Vapor lock. Hot temperatures and todays highly volatile ethanol laced fuel = vapor lock in a 55 Buick. Lots of discussion on the subject...here is just one: http://forums.aaca.org/f162/help-55-roadmaster-stalling-high-temps-330424.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 I've never messed with an electric fuel pump. Does it need to run all the time or just part time? Do you keep the mechanical pump as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Mine is part time by way of a toggle switch under the dash. I activate before starting to fill the carb and when vapor lock occurs or is anticipated. Just be sure that the electric fuel pump will allow fuel to be pulled through it by the mechanical pump, that the mechanical pump has recently been rebuilt with ethanol resistant materials. If you eliminate the mechanical pump or use the electric full time install this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-cr92/applications/?prefilter=1I use a 7-9# pump (Airtex) at the tank which will give the desired 5# at the carb. When traveling instead of carrying a replacement mechanical pump I have a hose to bypass the mechanical pump (It is a "beach" to replace the mechanical pump on a 55 with factory air).Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 21, 2014 Author Share Posted January 21, 2014 Well I don't have A/C but I appreciate all the advice. I will definitely heed your warning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 23, 2014 Author Share Posted January 23, 2014 Any tips for priming the old fuel pump? It was running before I took the tank off. now it won't start without pouring gas in the carb.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 25, 2014 Author Share Posted January 25, 2014 So I broke down and ordered the electric fuel pump yesterday. However, I got it running this morning. I noticed I have a fuel leak coming off the bottom of the tank. When I drained the tank a month or so ago, I pumped it up with air and it was not leaking..... Do you think my hard line to the frame could be leaking and running down? This could also explain the hard prime issue on the pump maybe? Here's some video of it running:Sorry my phone takes poor quality video/audio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 (edited) Wish I could open the file for viewing. My old PC would let me open an MP4. As for the leak, I would definitely think it was a line failure. Are you using the original sender? or a new one? If new, did you flare the end for a metal fitting or use a small bit of runbber line with clamps? Edited January 28, 2014 by JohnD1956 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 It is a new sending unit. I used rubber line. Got my electric fuel pump in today so this weekend I will drop the tank again, find the leak, install the electric pump and then on to the next thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 If the tank is full, I am going to say the leak is actually between the gasket and tank, or the screws. I coat the screws with sealant of some sort, and use a thin layer of sealer on both sides of the sending unit gasket. If the tank isn't full, then I bet it is the rubber line over a non flared sending tube.Just guessing. I have experienced all of these issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Turns out it was the tiniest pinhole in the tank!!! It must have clogged with stuff when I filled the tank with air...... Anyhow, I'm "patching" the tank for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 1, 2014 Author Share Posted February 1, 2014 Tank patched, car running.... Question.... I've noticed the car rolls in park. Today I played with it while up on jack stands.... I'm thinking its just linkage adjustment but want some feedback. While the selector says N the wheels move pretty fast, but I'm able to stop them with my foot and good pressure. When you switch to D the wheels move to a point you cannot stop with just your feet, you must press the brake. But when you go stop the wheels and go to P....then let off the brake it seems to go back to neutral and if you let off the brake while holding the gear selector firmly at P, it chatters like hell.... Opinions?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Check the engine mounts, tranny mount and thrust pad, then adjust the shift linkage as outlined in the service manual. A quick way to rule out the transmission is to detach the shift linkage at the shift arm at the transmission and compare to the current observations ( there are detents in the transmission ).Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 Yeah, what he said! My 56 had the same problem. The parking pawl can get out of adjustment or just plain break off. Not a hard adjustment if you follow the manual. MattSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 2, 2014 Author Share Posted February 2, 2014 Thanks guys! Lets hope it's just adjustment and not broken off. I have NO desire to have to pull a transmission this far along Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Put the gas tank back and took it for a ride today... She rides and runs great. Stopping is a little weird so I'm going to pull and check the other wheels. I have 235/75/15 on it and they seem to rub when I turn her really hard. Anyone know what the output on the generator should be? At the Gen I have 2 volts at idle....at the battery I see no difference. The gauge on the dash seems to stay right in the middle. Also, the oil pressure gauge pegs to "H".... any thoughts? Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The tires are too tall. Might have to move to a 215/75R15. My experience with my generator is the gauge is in the middle at speed and the battery has a good charge. If the battery is needing a charge and lights are on the gauge will run towards the +. If I'm at a stop and idle headlights on the gauge will go towards -. If you have a tester for charging use the terminal posts on the battery to check. Bring the idle up and voltage should be above 12 volts and towards 15 volts. Much higher and the battery will cook. At idle the charge reading my be even at 12 volts or sometimes less as the firing of spark plugs is creating a draw. Generators work differently than alternators in this respect. It sounds like you are running on pure battery and the generator is not charging or your gauge in the dash is not working. It is always best to test charging with a known good battery. I had a failing battery and the generator was working like mad to charge it. The battery was boiling. Installed a new battery and charging returned to normal. Best to check the charge manually at the battery. My oil gauge runs up towards the H when driving. At idle she reads middle towards the low. Sounds like you are ok on the oil pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 The tires are too tall. Might have to move to a 215/75R15. My experience with my generator is the gauge is in the middle at speed and the battery has a good charge. If the battery is needing a charge and lights are on the gauge will run towards the +. If I'm at a stop and idle headlights on the gauge will go towards -. If you have a tester for charging use the terminal posts on the battery to check. Bring the idle up and voltage should be above 12 volts and towards 15 volts. Much higher and the battery will cook. At idle the charge reading my be even at 12 volts or sometimes less as the firing of spark plugs is creating a draw. Generators work differently than alternators in this respect. It sounds like you are running on pure battery and the generator is not charging or your gauge in the dash is not working. It is always best to test charging with a known good battery. I had a failing battery and the generator was working like mad to charge it. The battery was boiling. Installed a new battery and charging returned to normal. Best to check the charge manually at the battery. My oil gauge runs up towards the H when driving. At idle she reads middle towards the low. Sounds like you are ok on the oil pressure.Thank you! I know the battery is good. I will do some more tests, I'm not sure of the voltage regulator honestly. Anyhow, She runs quiet and smooth so now I must tie up loose ends... and boy is it a long list!Here's a photo after our drive today..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Readjusted brakes today, and got a sweet deal on some "new to me" tires. 225/70/15. I know they're a little small but they'll work. Tomorrow is rust repair on fenders, install the third hood, and the electric fuel pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted March 2, 2014 Share Posted March 2, 2014 Matt,Maybe it's my iPhone, but it appears your paint doesn't quite match the fender color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 2, 2014 Author Share Posted March 2, 2014 Got the bumper bolted on today. Also installed new 2 gauge battery cables. Discovered the horn wire is broken off in the column, so added an external switch for now. Swapped the hood again. This one looks awful but is the best of the three. Also Swapped to the full wheel hub caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Looking much better Matt! Gonna have a nice driver for the spring/summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Thanks! That's what I'm hoping. Ordering a water pump as we speak, it's been dripping but blew all out today and soaked the engine bay! I'm just going to get a quick paint job. Next winter's project will be to rebuild the 4bbl carb but now I'm completely focused on summer cruising :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Getting my water pump through Centerville repair in California..... Anyone had dealings with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 That looks really good. Considering the damage at the start I'd say you did an excellent job straightening the car out. . Agreeing with Chris on the gauges. Worry about the oil pressure when it is headed to the low side above an idle. Anything above Low is good, and high is better. As for the battery gauge, remember you are reading amperage, not volts. When the battery is full there will be very little swing on the gauge. When the system needs a charge the needle moves to the positive side. When the generator can't provide enough charge the needle moves to the negative side. When your battery is discharged the needle will swing wide. Low RPM with high energy draw ( Headlights, radio, maybe stop lights and signal) the needle may move to complete negative but that does not mean anything is wrong. What you want to see is the needle move to the positive when above an idle and then settle back to the middle as the battery recharges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Thanks John! Yes when I look at the "before" photos, I think of what a journey the last year has been. This is my first major reconstruction..... I'll rebuild a motor on the kitchen floor in a weekend, but bodywork never was my forte, seemed more like an art than a science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 I'll agree with that! Especially block sanding.. Whoa! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Matt the car is looking great! Hopefully you get a lot of time to cruise this summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 SURVIVOR Posted March 5, 2014 Share Posted March 5, 2014 Wow looks good!! Following your thread,it has come A long way in A short time.It will feel good to get her back on the road again,I'm likin it!!!!!!!!! Mark M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric W Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Went back & found your "before" photos - awesome job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Minispdrcr Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 If you were closer you could have had a spare hood I had Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Lol thanks. I sanded and primed mine this weekend. Will need some bondo due to pitting. Also reinstalled the radio and shipped out the water pump to Centerville auto for rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Out of boredom I made a box to put a modern radio under the dash while I wait for the water pump to come back. Some would cry at the stainless sheet I glued this carpet to...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Great thread, Matt! Did anyone ever nickname you "bulldog"? You just crushed those problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Lol. Never heard that one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 13, 2014 Author Share Posted March 13, 2014 Just got a call, new water pump is on the way! Headlight buckets came today from a fellow forum member. I immediately prepped and painted them.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Water pump came back today..... Yah! Just need the freezing rain to stop...... Darn southern late winter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 20, 2014 Author Share Posted March 20, 2014 Took her for a ride to Walmart! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 AWESOME!!! Congrats on getting to take her out for a spin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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