Guest rameses32 Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) I thought I would start this thread to document the restoration of my 1924 Dodge Tourer. I'm just doing one piece at a time for the moment because there are just so many pieces, lol.The first bit I am refurbishing is the steering wheel. The wood has some minor cracks , stains and swelling but I think with a bit of TLC it will tidy up perfectly. The spokes on the other hand are heavily corroded, I wire brushed the white powder off the spokes and started to sand the extremely hard black oxidation off, and man was it hard. Here are a couple photos, before and after, the first pic is after wire brushing the white corrosion off three spokes, and the second shows the spokes after about 5 hours sanding. I'm still not convinced the center is aluminium, I think it might be pot metal (die cast), does anyone know for sure? Edited October 21, 2012 by rameses32 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) Thanks for starting this thread I have read about the material used in that center portion but maybe someone here knows off the top of their headWheel looks great BTW Edited October 21, 2012 by 1930 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsfarms Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I am thinking what you have is a typical Aluminum Alloy. We all get to deal with that issue from time to time.Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I think you've done a great job on that old steering wheel. Believe it or not, they were originally completely covered with a baked on black enamel, even the aluminum spokes. I don't think the center hub portion is of a different material. It is all one casting but what you're seeing is the wear mark when it was on the steering column. One spoke should have a part number, C-18866, on the back side. The cleaned up wheel on my '25 looks exactly like yours! That aluminum alloy is really tough!!--As you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I thought it had all been painted, if I did that it would be so much easier, but I think it will look much better this way. I wanted to polish the spokes, but the corrosion goes too deep to get a perfect finish, so I will finish with a smooth finish, much like it looks now, not polished, but no sanding marks or scratches, Then I will start on the wood, I'm going to lightly sand it, run epoxy into the larger cracks for strength and put wood filler in the smaller cracks, sand the whole thing smooth and coat it with a thinned coat of Marine grade spar varnish as a sealer, sand that back, then apply 3 more coats, sand and rub on one last coat for a smooth finish. It will still have streakes and show it's age, but it should look cool and be well protected. Does anyone have any photos of there steering wheel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I think the metal that the steering wheel centres is Durilium. Its an aluminium alloy. The same metal was used to make radiator surrounds on 1927 Chev Passenger cars. This was in sheet form which was pressed to shape . Some pots and pans were also made of it as well Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Interesting... Mine also has some pitting and so won't be perfect but I still like the look of aluminum better than paint (I might put some clear coat after it's polished though). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Well I finished the spokes, really happy with the way they came out. Started on the wood, I dont know what they coated it in but it is rock hard. Here are a couple more photos, the first is the spokes done, and the second is after several hours of stripping and scraping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 For what it is worth, here is my approach to the problem. My wheel was badly cracked and requred extensive filling. Noting that the rims of all the wheels I have seen appear to have been painted black I decided to hide the repairs. Several coats of Primebond (heavy enamel undercoat no longer available) were rubbed back. Flat black over provided the colour. The final sprayed coats were clear gloss polyurethane.I have never seen the die cast aluminium allow spokes painted. They buff up fairly easily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Looks really good. Worth the effort for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 I like the Fleur de Lys pattern on the door panel Tony. Did the original have that or was it a personal touch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 This is the original pattern which was embossed into the leather. The new pattern is stitched in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 That's what I was thinking about doing, filling and smoothing the wood and painting it. Now I have to decide which way to go, perfect and painted, or give it a bit of a sand and give it a good spar varnish to show off the age and pantina, You can see the scarf joints and clamping marks etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Getting Closer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Very nice looking steering wheel! Someday I hope I get the time to re-do my wheel and hope it comes out as nice. The "clamp marks" you speak of, look to me to be tell-tale marks from a "spinner" or "suicide knob" as some refer to them by. They were a small clamp-on device with an integral rotating knob, to use as an easier, faster way to turn the steering wheel. Outlawed in most states when the knobs were found to be at fault in some accidents when the sleeve of the driver got caught on the knob when negotiating a turn and jammed the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeC5 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Interesting... I have one of those on the lawn tractor.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Actually the two clamp marks are at the two scarf joints in the wheel, the wheel is made from two pieces of wood, steam bent, and scarfed, they probably used a casein glue, because of it's strength and waterproof properties, but it requires a high clamping pressure, it was used in aircraft of the era, but again , I'm just guessing:)CharleyVery nice looking steering wheel! Someday I hope I get the time to re-do my wheel and hope it comes out as nice. The "clamp marks" you speak of, look to me to be tell-tale marks from a "spinner" or "suicide knob" as some refer to them by. They were a small clamp-on device with an integral rotating knob, to use as an easier, faster way to turn the steering wheel. Outlawed in most states when the knobs were found to be at fault in some accidents when the sleeve of the driver got caught on the knob when negotiating a turn and jammed the wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1930 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Beautiful job Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 That is what I call inspirational. You have made a really professional job of that wheel, Charley. I will be following your restoration with interest. If you do the rest of the car to this standard we are in for a treat. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 WooHoo, I finally finished the first part of the car, after 25 hours of work I am pleased to say that the steering wheel is finished and ready for installation. It's far from perfect but it would take another 25 hours of work to make a noticeable difference, and besides I am not building this car as a museum piece, I am building it to drive. Thank you every one for your comments and help, and I am really looking forward to the next piece:)Charley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete K. Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 WOW! That's a beautiful job you've done with that Dodge wheel. I never really took note that the wheels were two-piece with a scarf joint on either side. I must be blind. I wish someday I can get my '25 wheel to look as nice! Thanks for posting it Charley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 Ok, well this week I chose to work on the tail light, nothing exciting, I lightly sand blasted and etch primed it. It's not perfectly smooth because I figured if I spray puttied it I would loose some definition in the Dodge Brothers logo, so I simply etch primed it, lightly sanded it, painted the inside gloss white, because that's what it was before I sand blasted it. I then sprayed gloss black enamel on the outside, and polished the brass rim. It was originally nickle plated, but I will not chrome anything until the whole car is finished, otherwise all the chrome might pit, it may take ten years to finish the entire vehicle. I have a bike in the shed I am building for a guy, he spent 30K on chrome 10 years ago, before he brought it to me, and now it is all pitted and peeling, lesson learned. Anyway, I painted the STOP bit flat black and other than polishing the brass screws and assembling it with some new bulbs it is finished, I cant wait to see what it looks like all lit up:)Charley Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willy Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I am about to refinish my steering wheel, but after sanding forevvvvvvvver......., it had some kind of oil in the wood, and I can't get that out. It looks bad, but I'm not sure what I can use to rid it of the oil, or whatever it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 I wonder if some time in it's life somebody hasn't sanded it back and the treated it with boiled Linseed oil? There are a few methods to try, mineral spirits is one, if it was me I would get a stiff nail brush and some washing powder, and give a good scrub and rinse thoroughly then dry it as you don't want it to soak up too much water and warp. This usually removes all traces of Boiled Linseed Oil from wood and when it has thoroughly dried you should be good to go. Let me know how it goes. If the oil has penitrated too deep you may have to finish it with Boiled Linseed Oil again, but thats not all bad, if done right it will still look beautiful.CharleyI am about to refinish my steering wheel, but after sanding forevvvvvvvver......., it had some kind of oil in the wood, and I can't get that out. It looks bad, but I'm not sure what I can use to rid it of the oil, or whatever it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted November 9, 2012 Share Posted November 9, 2012 CharleySorry to be pedantic, but the "stop" cutout should be nickle plated. I think the purpose was to reflect the light of the bulb backwards, which the flat black will not do. You might consider this when the rim vists your plater. Also make sure you use a 50 watt single contact headlight bulb for the stop light - every lumen counts when you are being tailgated by a mindless P-plater texting on a mobile phone.Keep up the good work.Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 A second thought. An important part of the tail light is the reflector behind the stop bulb which, like the headlight relectors, should be SILVER plated. Siver is used as iot has the highest reflective index of any polished metal - some 97 per cent if I recollect correctly. I cannot see the reflector in your photos nor the indented hole behind to take the single #5-44 fixing screw (strange). Do you have the reflector and screw? If not, send me a PM and I can help you.Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 Tony, I have colected several tail lights and I have come accross both, some with reflectors and some without. Is this another DB mystery? Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted November 10, 2012 Share Posted November 10, 2012 I have seen both kinds as well, this tail light had a black stop with white interrior, I just wonder if dodge brothers had several different manufacturers making there tail lights, I mean I have no way of knowing if this tail light had been redone in the last 88 years, but it didn't look like it had ever been touched when I stripped it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyAus Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 My tail light, the type with the reflector, was made by E&J (Edmund and Jones) and is as illustrated in the Book of Information for the 1925 series. The E&J name may be found on the lower (clear) glass. I have seen Type B Tail lights on later Dodges, including the six cylinder variety. Perhaps they were cheapened later by deleting the reflector and painting the interior white?? Mine was originally painted black inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Finished the tail light tonight, time to pick another part out of the pile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted November 12, 2012 Share Posted November 12, 2012 Well that works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 My Grand-dad nicknamed me tail light when I was a nipper.Recons I wasn't bright enough to be a stop light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted November 13, 2012 Share Posted November 13, 2012 My Grand-dad nicknamed me tail light when I was a nipper.Recons I wasn't bright enough to be a stop lightVery funny, Ron....and most illuminating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Finally getting some work done on the Dodge. This is the engine and transmission as I pulled it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Stripped the engine to replace all of the gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Stripped the chassis to get it sand blasted and etch primed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Chassis sand blasted, etch primed, repaired, and primed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 I bead blasted and etch primed every single part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rameses32 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 This is where I am up to today. New paint, shackle pins, king pins, wheel bearings, and all new bushings in the suspension. The engine has new white metal bearings, valves and rings. The transmission has new bearings and some new gears and is in like new condition. The guy I baught this project from did everything right, he just stopped working on it 30 years ago. In the last four weeks I have stripped, blasted, cleaned, painted and reassembled everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machinist_Bill Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 I see it's been a year and a half. Sometimes life gets in the way. Very nice job you are doing! I wish I had your "Stick To It" ability. Did you run your engine yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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