NEW ICM, Coil Pack, EGR, Fuel Filter, and MAF STILL STALLING PLEASE I NEED YOUR HELP

[2seater]

Could try disconnecting O2 sensor, or almost any single sensor for that matter, but it should be inactive when engine is cold? Bad information from a sensor is worse than no signal at all. The preprogrammed ECM info takes over when a sensor fails. Might try cycling through the various sensors and record the information they are reporting. I think Daniel is suggesting the O2 is telling the ECM to run leaner than it should, and that is possible. Same for water temp. sensor and intake air temp. sensor. All have an effect on the program in the ECM. EGR malfunction can cause operational problems but if one or more pintles is stuck open, it will usually do serious harm to the idle and low speed operation and get better as the rpms overide the leak (similar to vacuum leak). Cheapest fuel pressure gauge I have made is a $6, 60 or 100psi gauge from the local farm store, a length of fuel injection hose, a -4 female 45 deg AN or hydraulic fitting and two hose barbs to connect them together. You do have to pull the valve stem from the test port on the engine (same as used in a tire valve stem), since the AN fitting lacks the insert to open the test port. A dial type tire pressure gauge will work too but still must convert to the threads on the test port.

[wht89reatta]

Good thinking 2seater. I have resorted to this method plenty of times without really thinking of it, with this I got my problems figured out in no time flat.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Alright, sounds like something that I will give a try out next. Will hopefully be able to get to that between classes today. Phil (f14) will be sending me his fuel tester this weekend so I can hopefully get that to you guys asap.

[padgett]

OK, take a snapshot of everything (see diagnostics) while it is stuttering and we'll take a look. Sure sound like secondary ignition to me.

BTW it will idle fine on 20 psi fuel pressure but needs 40 psi to run properly under load.

Too bad you can't just visit the mouse.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

What is it that you want me to take a pic of padgett?, and Daniel, you can bet that the o2 sensor will be the first thing I unplug when I head out there in a few minutes lol

[Ronnie]

CL I think he means to take an ECM snapshot in diagnostics mode while the engine is malfunctioning. It sorta freezes all the readings at that point in time.

Diagnostics Instructions Page 7*-*ReattaOwner.com

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Oh gotcha...well I just tried the sensor removing idea and have some findings. removed every senor except cps and coolant temp, engine ran worse, but still did the same thing, slowly added each sensor while running, and no change...I did find this though...the intake is sucking in LARGE amounts of air, like almost as much as my hoover vacuum sucks. I removed the air filter end of the intake hose, and covered it with a rag, it sucked it right in, and stalled. I then clamped a rag over the intake hose, and pretty much almost blocked any air getting to the engine, and it appeared to run fine...however it would then just randomly stall, but I did not notice any more stuttering...any ideas?

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Just took it for a drive around the block with the intake clogged, and that definitely fixed the problem...now...any ideas for what could be wrong with it sense I can't exactly drive it around with a rag in the intake

[Ronnie]

Below is what I posted to you in post #18 after I viewed your video. I think you just proved that I was right or you have some other problem causing the engine to run extremely lean.

The video sounds like you have a huge vacuum leak. IF that is the way it really sounds you need to find out where that sucking/hissing sound is coming from. Check hoses and PCV valve closely

[Guest CL_Reatta]

I checked all the hoses, and sprayed ether around the maf and throttle body, no apparent leaking. The hissing sound was actually coming from the the air filter box from the sound of the air moving through it. If there was such a bad vacuum leak, I don't see how that would cause the massive sucking coming from the engine

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Maybe it's just been a while since I have messed with the intake (made my own CAI back in the day, hasnt been on there in years) but having it sucking in so much air that it can heard thru the airbox and it instantly sucks in a rag seems like to much

[Ronnie]

What about around the PVC valve? Have you checked it for proper operation?

[Ronnie]

Your problem is not too much air going into the intake. That is regulated by the butterfly. Could it be spitting back through the intake causing the sound you are hearing?

[Ronnie]

Try plugging the hose going to the PVC and see if it helps.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Well the sound is/was coming from the air box...as I put my ear to it and could hear it from there. I currently stuffed a rag on the outside of the filter and it is running fine now, atleast for now it can be driven if that doesnt seek to much disapproval from everyone here lol. From what ive read, if I start touching the hose back there, the pcv plastic will break then I will be needing to replace that also. If the cat was / is failed (which now it is for sure since the holes are in it) could that be causing the engine to breath TO good, therefore causing the large amounts of intake air?

[Ronnie]

I'm glad to hear you got your problem fixed and the car is drivable again.

Happy Motoring!

[padgett]

Almost sounds like the IAC is jammed wide open. What does the TPS read at idle (key just needs to be on, engine not running to read).

[Guest CL_Reatta]

HAHA Ronnie...I dunno if i'd go THAT far...but I work in a few hours so can't go digging into the PCV today. But is that what your thinking now? Do you want the TPS reading with or without the rag padgett? lol

[Ronnie]

HAHA Ronnie...I dunno if i'd go THAT far...but I work in a few hours so can't go digging into the PCV today. But is that what your thinking now?

Well I was just thinking of places that could be causing a large amount of raw air to be entering the engine. Other places that come to mind are bad intake manifold gaskets, bad EGR gaskets (or EGR control/solenoid problem), bad throttle body gaskets etc as well as the IAC recommended by Padgett. I don't see how any of those items could make it sound like too much air is going through the air filter but I guess it is possible.

Fuel pressure testing is still in order as well as testing the EGR solenoid for proper operation via diagnostics as I recommended before.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Well, Intake manifold gaskets are new, along with the egr valve, and gasket. With the ether sprayed around the throttle body gasket and tps gasket, rpms didnt increase. If it sounds like I'm arguing, please know that i'm not and i'm fully appreciating everyones help here, and I am listening to EVERYONE'S input , i'm just saying that there are a lot of new parts on this thing, and it seems unlikely that they are bad. I should have the fuel tester next week. hopefully can get the tps readings tonight when I get off work, or tomorrow before

[2seater]

Interesting, artificially limiting the air intake seems to have improved the operation? I do have a CAI of my own and there is a fair amount of intake sound, even at idle. It would still be interesting to see what the sensors say, particularly the MAF, TPS, O2 and the fuel Integrator and Block Learn, only after warmed up. When I connect or disconnect the MAF while running it usually causes a bad stumble or even a stall? You indicated no change, correct? The PCV should survive a visual examination or it should be replaced anyway. If you remove the rag, does the bad behavior return?

[padgett]

Cold Air Intake ? Where is the IAT sensor that was in the air filter ? You didn't remove the honeycomb from the throttle body did you ?

Edited May 13, 2011 by padgett (see edit history)

[D-a-n-i-e-l]

I am sorry I did not watch your video earlier. You definatly have a air leak. Most likely in the intake area, but I would start at the butterfly gate and work your way back. As stated erlier I would check to see if the IAC is stuck open, but I would be willing to bet on a bad intake gasket.

[Guest jwin]

What about the TPS? It seemed to struggle the most (and then stall) when you held the throttle at that particular RPM range. Maybe the potentiometer is worn out in that spot. Just brainstorming here.

[Guest mongeonman]

I d ont think it is the IAC cause it looks to idle fine.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

When unplugging the MAF it does get worse, and yes, if I were to take the rag out, then the problem would come back. the mass amount of air was coming in at idle also, I don't have the car right now (need my mark viii for work this weekend so I couldn't let the girl friend take that to work today, so she has the reatta) I won't be able to get to this until sunday night (I work the whole weekend and get the week off) I will be getting the readings to this thread sunday, I am thinking and when I first start it up when it runs fine, I need to test and see if its still pulling in the mass amount of air.

[2seater]

Just by chance, I am working on a new project for my Reatta and today was the first day I fired it up, so it was a good opportunity to hear the intake sound. I turned the a/c on to check the operation and there is indeed a fairly dramatic difference in the sound of the intake as the IAC cycles to pick up the load of the a/c compressor. It sounds like what was described as "too much air" when the engine is loaded. Since the idle speed is approximately normal, it would seem the engine is under some sort of load, or, it is struggling to stay running and the IAC opens to compensate. Even without a fuel pressure gauge, checking the fuel integrator and block learn in diagnostics will give some idea if the ECM is trying to add or subtract fuel. If fuel supply is low, one or both should read way high, well above the target of 128.

[Don B.]

Let me tell you a story. Years ago on my 1977 Regal I did a tune up. Got in the car for a test ride. It idle fine but when I went to accelerate it run terribly.

I mis-landed 2 of the spark wires.

Recheck your wires, the coil pack has numbers by the post. Follow them with your eyes and hands, its easy to make a mistake with just eyes.

The bank on the fire wall side is even numbers.

[wht89reatta]

This is just me being random again. I just remembered i had a similar problem and found that the 90 degree hose that connects the intake to the PCV vlave had a massive hole it in. Be sure you get that checked out as well.

[Ronnie]

I hate threads that end this way. Everyone jumps in to help solve a problem that seems to be an emergency to get a car back on the road and then the tread just ends abruptly. Oh well...

[Guest CL_Reatta]

I have been at work and I an't easily work on the car since I don't drive it, and it's been doing okay with the intake clogged, tps is reading .36, the pcv valve appears fine, is there any real way of testing it? And ones again YES The wires are fine

[padgett]

Relief is just an L67 away.

[wht89reatta]

did you ever get a fuel pressure tester on top of it?

[Guest CL_Reatta]

LOL!...If anything this will be the candidate car for a 4.9 swap. Phil's fuel pressure tester is MIA

[wws944]

Twenty bucks for this: Fuel Injection Pump Tester. (Disclaimer: I don't own this particular model, so have no idea if it is any good.)

[padgett]

Looks like this year's version of last year's $9.95 one.

[rjfranken]

An O2 sensor can sut you down too.

[rjfranken]

I remeber trying to climb a hill. kept slowing down. Damn O2 seeing rich shut it down more till it stopped (toyota)

[Guest jwin]

The TPS would read fine like that at idle. If it were causing a problem, it would have "dead" spots along the potentiometer which could cause it the cut off fuel delivery, and possibly stall the engine. To check it, you have to monitor the TPS voltage (key on, engine off) while manually opening and closing the throttle blade in a slow steady motion. As you open it the voltage should increase steadily towards 4.5V at WOT, then back down. If you hit a "dead spot", the voltage would drop erratically in that spot. (could drop to 0V) When this happens while you're accelerating with the engine running, it cuts off fuel delivery abruptly, Could definitely make sounds like that. Ideally, you'd want to monitor the voltage with an o-scope, but most people don't have one hanging around, so you could check it with a multimeter, or on the CRT. You may get lucky and catch something. Considering it only takes like 2-3 mins, it couldn't hurt to be able to rule another thing out.

[Guest CL_Reatta]

Alright, well it lasted a week, and back to the same thing, so I will check the tps again when I head over to where it now stays parked. Will have a fuel pressure reading very shortly.