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Everything posted by wws944

  1. "The Great Race" with Tony Curtis, Natalie Wood, Jack Lemmon and a host of others was a fun movie. As far as chase scenes go, W.C. Fields did a pretty good one in "Never Give a Sucker an Even Break":
  2. A late uncle of mine bought the last Oldsmobile sold in the Omaha Nebraska area. Just a few days after Olds ceased to become a brand. It is a loaded 2004 Alero - though not one of the "final 500" edition cars. I bought it from his estate, and my daughter drives it now. Not sure if that makes it worth any more or less than any other used Alero. But it makes for fun conversation.
  3. Like fluorescents, LED bulbs come in a variety of color temperatures. Commonly either 2700°K (roughly the same as traditional incandescent), 3000°K (roughly the same as halogen incandescent), 4100°K (close to daylight), or 5000°K (daylight). For task oriented spaces such as garages, workshops, kitchens, offices, and reading lamps, choose daylight temps. For living spaces such as bedrooms and family rooms, warmer temps are more comfortable. I used to buy 2700°K for such spaces because 3000°K wasn't as available as it is now. But for me, 2700°K is too warm. So now I use 3000°K when possible. As far as substituting LED bulbs in auto lighting, it depends on the situation. There is a fundamental difference between how a LED emits light (e.g., in a planar fashion) and how an incandescent filament does (e.g., much more omni-directionally - though it does depend on things like orientation of the filament). With separate bulb and reflector, the LED(s) may not be at the correct focal point of the reflector, and can emit light in unexpected directions. So it is really hit or miss as to how a given LED replacement will work in any given fixture. If one has traditional sealed beam headlights (e.g., 6024, 6054, etc) - which incorporate the entire optical assembly in one unit, it is easy to find effective LED replacements.
  4. Nice. When we bought my '61, someone had previously painted it red. But it was originally white, so we had it repainted back to the original color. Dads '60, and the '59 parts car were also white. The '59 also had the optional removable hard top - which was one of the reasons we bought it. Unfortunately it was sitting outside by the workshop where I was working on it, and got ruined by some neighborhood vandals. Lesson learned.
  5. Back in the mid-1970s, between my dad and myself we had three 190SLs. Being busy with college in a distant state, I ended up selling my '61 to a guy who "really really" wanted it and would treasure it forever. Then the SOB flipped it to a classic car dealer about a month later. Dad sold his '60 in the late '80s to a collector somewhere in Michigan. (Dad regretted selling too, and a couple years later he bought the Reatta Convertible that I still own today.) The third was a very rusty '59 parts car that we stripped and disposed of. The 190SL was neither "Super" nor "Light". Maybe SLow was a better description. It was a pretty looking car though, and convertibles are always a treat. But no way in my mind would I ever pay six figures for one in todays market. Just so many other cars I'd rather own for much less money.
  6. I know your post was in jest. But you might be surprised. A couple of relatively small panels combined with a modest Lithium battery would handle your perking and toasting sessions. Something like a Jackery 1000 Solar Generator (https://www.jackery.com/products/jackery-explorer-1000-2-x-solarsaga-100w-solar-generator) would probably do the job. On a recent camping trip, one of the guys brought along two Jackery 1000s and solar panels. They powered all our needs over the weekend. This included powering an amateur radio station and computers. (ARRL Field Day.)
  7. History San Jose at Kelley Park. You might also be thinking of the Western Railway Museum on CA highway 12 near Fairfield. A couple of the guys in San Jose volunteer there as well. I've driven past the WRM a number of times, but have yet to stop in. Need to.
  8. Now that I've retired from a Real Job and the pandemic is somewhat behind us, I've recently started volunteering at a local history museum that includes a trolley barn and several antique trolleys. I've almost completed my 'motorman' training! We give free rides on weekends. The trolleys run off a 600V DC overhead power line. It has been interesting to learn how the antique trolley controllers work. Handle on top for the motorman which is connected to a vertical cam with electrical contacts. As one moves the handle from 'point' to 'point', the motor windings and resistor banks are selected in various series and parallel configurations. A 'no-no' is to keep power on any of the intermediate points that involve the resistor banks - as they can heat up in just a few seconds to the point where they can become a fire danger to the wooden car body. (This isn't a problem at higher speed points when only the motor windings are in the circuit.) So the game is to step through the points until the desired speed is achieved, then shut the power off and coast until you need to add some power again. The controllers in antique electric cars seems to be a miniaturized version of those used in the trolleys of the day. Though I've not heard if there is a similar problem with staying on one of the intermediate 'points' like there is with the trolleys. The trolley barn also has a fully operational 1916 Detroit Electric on display. I'm hoping that one day I'll get a chance to drive it around the park. There is also a same era Metz on display next to the Detroit Electric, and a few other antiques behind the scenes.
  9. I replaced almost all the incandescents in my house about 10 years ago and have not looked back. Back then, the early LED bulbs were in the $20-$30/each range, compared to a $0.50 incandescent. But once I calculated the 10x reduction in electric costs, especially in places like the kids bedrooms (lights on at 3 pm when they get home from school, not turned off until 10 pm to midnight) and the kitchen, I realized that the payback was two years or less. Today costs have dropped so much, there is no reason to ever go back. (Special purpose places like inside the oven excepted.) Fluorescents not as clear cut. Only maybe a 2x reduction in power going to LED. But properly done, high CRI (>90) LED light quality is way better than typical fluorescents, and no 'warm up' or flickering. So I've converted many of them as well. Sad to say I'm not in the garage enough to swap my 4' garage fluorescents yet. If/when I do, I will de-ballast the fixtures, and wire direct to the tombstones as suggested a couple posts ago.
  10. Hopefully my '96 Suburban being only 25 years old isn't too new to be discussed here... We discovered my front axle housing is cracked. Explains why the 4WD system hasn't been been as reliably engaging and disengaging as it should be. It seems to be GM part number 26033235, and not available new. It there a cross reference or other source of this part? Or should I just start scouring PickNPulls or other wrecking yards for a used unit? Anyone have a good used one laying around? https://www.gmpartsonline.net/oem-parts/gm-axle-housing-26033235
  11. Thanks for the photo! Yes - that brown 1977 is the one I remember. The V-12 was so cleanly integrated "it looked like it came from the factory that way".
  12. Funny - I was thinking the same thing. I lived in Reno in the early 1980s, and used to go over to see the collection on occasion. But it has been so many years that I figured I was not remembering it right.
  13. It was prominently displayed at the Harrahs Auto Collection in the early 1980s. Shame that the HAC got broken up - but Holiday Inns, who bought the hotels/casinos, had no interest in keeping it intact.
  14. Going through some photos, I found this one. I took the photo at the annual Drive Electric event in Cupertino, Californa a few years ago. It appears to be the same car that @TerryB posted photos of upthread. I didn't have any details on it until I saw the ones above. The 1916 Detroit Electric behind the Studebaker belongs to History San Jose.
  15. The recent thread in the General forum on the 21-year old fellow who is planning to drive his Model A coast to coast inspired a number of fun postings about different cross country drives on various historic roads in vintage cars. With that in mind, I was thinking that a nice addition to the AACA web site would be a subforum dedicated to both driving on historic highways and also driving vintage cars on them. My definition of "historic highways" is basically pre-Interstate, and especially including the pre-1926 auto trails. (I realize this is a U.S.-centric view point, so more general rules would apply for other countries.)
  16. After many years of total neglect, yahoogroups finally died last year. Several of the yahoo groups I was in moved to groups.io. Perhaps your Chrysler group moved there as well?
  17. Awesome! I wonder how much he knows of the historic Lincoln Highway? It runs through Lancaster. Todays U.S. 30 more or less follows the route of the original Lincoln Highway across most of the U.S. until about Wyoming.
  18. I've read that there are more horses in the U.S. now than there were in 1900.
  19. Mixed feelings on this. Interestingly J. B. Straubel, who later became V.P. at Tesla, first did an EV conversion of a Porsche 944 in the 1990s. I've often wondered if his 944 had a bad engine due to the cam or balance shaft belt snapping. (The 944 has an interference engine. So proper belt maintenance is critical.) I recently met a fellow who has been working on his 914 EV conversion for the past 10 years. While it is quite driveable, I'm not sure he'll ever be finished with it. Amusingly, the heater for the cabin and windshield defrosting is a pair of electric hair dryers wired in series. No air conditioning - unless you remove the roof. No PS or (I think) PB either. When he originally built it, he used Pb deep cycle batteries. But later converted to Lithium iron-phosphate (LiFePO).
  20. I guess here in California there is an attraction to buying a pre-1975 car - just because it doesn't need bi-annual smog checks. It seems like lot of post-1975 cars end up in the local Pick-N-Pulls simply because they won't pass smog. One time I bought a Delco ignition module/coil setup at a PNP to try out in my Reatta. It came out of a really nice late '90s Olds. Reatta ran like c**p with it, and it turned out the module was bad. One can buy a new module for like $75-100 bucks. But someone decided to sell the car to the PNP and collect $500, rather than fix it. I've had a few smog test related problems over the years - but not counting my recent MB experience, the worst has just been to replace an O2 sensor (four in the Suburban). I would never want to daily drive a 45+ y/o car in the best of circumstances. They were designed for a 10-20 years lifespan, so repair parts often difficult to get. If it is anything collectible, one accident and it is history. Plus all the safety and convenience features of newer cars. I'm really appreciating things like backup cameras, front/rear parking assists, blind spot alerts and lane keeping assist. LKA is one that has really surprised me. Normally I'm pretty good about staying in my lane. But every once in a while, it'll 'catch' me getting too close to a lane edge (without signalling) and gently nudge me back towards the center. Adaptive cruise control is wonderful on congested freeways.
  21. Jay Leno on 3D scanning and printing:
  22. Yes - they are called 3-D printers. They range in price from a few hundred dollars to... a lot - depending on size, speed, quality, and so on. A lot of folks share their designs on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/).
  23. The car at the bottom left says "Fisher Auto Co" on it. Wonder if Carl is standing there?
  24. @GregLaR - the math is pretty easy. Figure between 3 and 4 miles per kWh. Maybe even 5 if you only drive around town and not on the freeway. Divide the number of miles you drive per month by, say, 4, and that gives the amount of energy you are drawing from the grid for the month. So if one were to drive 1000 miles/month, you'd draw an additional 250 kWh. Ignoring the fact that I have a solar system on my roof, so generate a lot of my own power, PG&E charges me just under $0.15/kWh for off peak power. Dividing by 4 works out to around $0.0375/mile. The car I daily drove before, a 2006 MB, got around 25 mpg. Gas here in CA is about $4.25 for premium. So it cost about $0.17 per mile for gas. EV is therefore 4.5x cheaper than gas. And as Matt said, that doesn't even include all the periodic maintenance that a ICE requires, but EV doesn't. In winter time, the car might use additional power for battery heating. Batteries like to be warm during charging. Not really a factor for my area though. And even with an ICE car, folks in northern climes often use engine block heaters to keep their engines warm. So six of one, half dozen of the other...
  25. Tesla and GM hit the 200K U.S. sales limit a couple years ago. So their customers don't qualify for the up to $7500 Federal income tax credit. Ford and Nissan have both been manufacturing plug-in cars for a long time as well, but have yet to hit 200K in U.S. sales. Until recently, Ford offered both the Energi twins (Fusion and C-Max plug-in hybrids) and the Focus Electric. All three were basically "compliance" cars, and not terribly compelling. Between the new Mach-E and the Lightning truck, I suspect Ford will hit 200K within the next year. Thing is - when the ITC was passed by Congress, back in the Bush Administration, Li-ion battery costs were north of $1K/kWh. Over the years a lot of folks have surmised that the "barrier" to achieving parity with ICE cars is at $100/kWh. And these days the costs have dropped to almost that. Sandy Munro thinks Tesla is already below $100/kWh. So I would just as soon see the credits sunset anyway - as they really aren't needed anymore. But the political winds seem to be blowing a different direction.
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