Dandy Dave Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I have a problem with the power windows in my 96 Buick Century. After an Ice storm that we had a week ago, both of the front windows failed at the same time. The back windows work, the door locks work, the seat belt switches work. Is there anything inside of the door, a switch, or something that could get stuck from ice and prevent the front windows from working? Also, If I open the door part way none of the windows will work. But after lookin I do not see a switch on a door jam any where? How do it know? I hate freezing rain. It has been so cold up here that nothing has had a chance to thaw very much. if anyone has a wiring diagram, that would help also. Thanks, Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Dave, I haven't heard of a lot of PW problems on older Centuries. I would check the usual; relays, fuses, and worse case, pull the door panel off and check the power to the door switch. I once had a car that had so much junk from trees in the tracks that the windows wouldn't work. Hope yours is just water in the tracks freezing the window glass to the rubber track. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 The door position in relation to the window operation is your clue. The wires for all four windows pass through the flexible conduit between the door and the body. After years of door movement, the wires work harden and break. Think of bending a paper clip until it breaks. You can pull the rubber conduit out of the door to examine the wires. Pull on them to see if the are broken. The problem can be intermittent because the copper is cracked, but the insulation is fine. If they are bad you can remove the trim panel, cut the wire at an accessible area and use the old wire to pull the new wire into the kick panel area. it is not practical to repair the wire where the actual break is located. Be sure to check all of the wires in the conduit. It is not a complicated repair. I would not like to do it outside at this time of year. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 You should be able to find a breaker for the window circuit. It may be broken into front and back doors, but it sounds like it drawed too many amps. Were you trying both @ the same time? Hope this helps. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Are the motors trying to run when you work the front window switches? Movement? Sounds?The only door jamb switch would be for the interior courtesy lights, NOT the power window switches. Might be one for the dome lights, possible factory alarm/keyless entry system, or seat belt something or other, but that's NOT part of the power window wiring circuit.Only ONE power feed and related relay in the power window circuits.IF door position makes a difference, that could well be where the issue is, as suggested, if there's a flaky wire or similar. Be sure to check the plug-ins on the motors, too, for good measure, plus the mounting points for the regulators inside of the door structure. Strange that both front doors would have the same problem at the same time yet the back door motors work. Just some thoughts,NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Dave, most likely you have a bad power window switch in the drivers door. I don't know how these things are wired but I recall my 80 Caddy having a system where both front window switches had to be operable for either window to work. I believe the switches are sold by NAPA and AutoZone, so that sort of tells you they are needed with some frequency. Then again in all GM forms there's probably a few million of those cars out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dan Cook Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Where is Red Green and his power window tool when you really need him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 My though was that I am getting power to the rear so the braker has to be good. The front motors do not seem to run at all. I did a continuity test on the window switches and they seem to work. You are right. It is too cold to screw with this thing outside. Maybe I will run it over to my brothers place were there is warm shop as every thing is full here. Should the windows work with the doors all the way open in Normal operation? The car only has 40,000 miles on it, but I could see where the wires would be hard from age and broken. Thanks for the thoughts. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 The quick way that I use to check the wires is to open the door, slide the convuluted rubber passthrough back and pull on the wires. The one that breaks the insulation is the culprit with the copper wire broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Door position has NO bearing on whether the windows work or not. Open, closed, partial . . . they are no position sensors in that situation.NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Door position has NO bearing on whether the windows work or not. Open, closed, partial . . . they are no position sensors in that situation.NTX5467Unless...It could be a grounding problem...I have that sometimes on my 55's. Not the problem if the light in the door panel is on.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Unless...It could be a grounding problem...I have that sometimes on my 55's. Not the problem if the light in the door panel is on.WillieOK, thanks fellows. I do belive there is a broken wire then. Or a problem with the motor plug-ins. Looks like I'll be tugging and pulling to find the culprit. First a warm garage. Then we play wire tug of war. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 Door position has NO bearing on whether the windows work or not. Open, closed, partial . . . they are no position sensors in that situation.NTX5467As said above, Thanks Fellows. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 I finnally got the car in a warm garage yesterday and sure enough it was a broken wire on the drivers side. A thick black one. Looks like it was dammaged when the car was assembled as it was broken inside the rubber boot between the door and the cowl, and looked like it was partly cut though. The front windows work in all door positions now. It was not as hard to find as I thought it was going to be. I had grand visions of the break being up under the dash somewhere and having a three day job to tear everything apart. That's why I procrastinated on doing it. But it sure was a pain at a ticket booth, and with warmer weather on its way it sure is nice to have them working. Thanks everyone for the good advice. Now to figgure out why the door locks jump when the headlights and wipers are on??? Does the harness run though the wiper compartment? The only thing I can figgure is that possibly the wires are rubbing the wiper motor, or wiper linkage from time to time. Although it is a low mile car, It sure does have some strange quirks. I guess that's why it is in my yard.... ... Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Dave,I would guess that wire just broke over time from opening and closing the door. As you know, it is a very common problem in the door to body pass through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Dang windows quit again. I took Mom to the hospitial for a test yesterday and put the window down and it would not go back up. Gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Checked it where it was broken and found it was pulled apart again. Seems the wire was getting caught when the window goes all the way down . I added a piece of wire and hopfully it will stay happy in the bottom of the door with more lenth. 15 year old Factory flub. The car turned 43,000 miles yesterday. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Dave, you said the door locks cycle when the headlight and wipers are on...... can we assume they do not do it when only the headlights or only the wipers are on?I have a 1998 Regal (it may include century) and will look Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jim_Edwards Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Dang windows quit again. I took Mom to the hospitial for a test yesterday and put the window down and it would not go back up. Gggrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Checked it where it was broken and found it was pulled apart again. Seems the wire was getting caught when the window goes all the way down . I added a piece of wire and hopfully it will stay happy in the bottom of the door with more lenth. 15 year old Factory flub. The car turned 43,000 miles yesterday. Dandy Dave!Dave, I went through the same issue with my daughter's '96 Mustang several years ago. Was into that flex conduit on the driver's side between the body and door three or four times before eliminating all the broken wires. Had I realized what was going on it would have been a lot easier and less time consuming to have just replaced the whole darn harness.Good luck, 'cause you're going to need it unless you can come up with a new harness from somewhere.Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Dave, you said the door locks cycle when the headlight and wipers are on...... can we assume they do not do it when only the headlights or only the wipers are on?I have a 1998 Regal (it may include century) and will lookHello Barney, it does not do it with just the lights on. Does not do it all the time, but seems to do it with the wipers when it does do it. I never tried it with the lights off because the law here is to have the lights on with the wipers. Is there a ground wire in the harness that is sometimes rubbing the wiper linkage and activating the door swiches? That's my educated guess. Or is the car just plain haunted?... Other than that, the car runs and drives great. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 6, 2011 Author Share Posted March 6, 2011 Dave, I went through the same issue with my daughter's '96 Mustang several years ago. Was into that flex conduit on the driver's side between the body and door three or four times before eliminating all the broken wires. Had I realized what was going on it would have been a lot easier and less time consuming to have just replaced the whole darn harness.Good luck, 'cause you're going to need it unless you can come up with a new harness from somewhere.JimJim, I think I have it now as it was only one wire that was too short. The rest of the wires feel quite flexible with no cracks in the insulation and look like new. The wire that was getting caught was being stretched to the breaking point and then just gave up. The rest seem happy riding where they are. We will see how it goes from here. Thanks, Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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