Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models

[Randiego]

MIND BOGGLING ! ! !

 

Roger,

 

It is May in SO CAL.  AND STILL COLD !  The weather patterns are changing.  I hope that Spring time in the Confoederatio Helvetia will be a welcome change to the cold winter.  With warmer air comes the  time to drive the 1:1 cars to the meets.  🙂 

 

This year, there was a 1931 Cadillac V 16 Roadster at the La Jolla Motorcar  Concourse show here in San Diego.  It was silver bodied with black fenders and a black interior.  And the chrome was dazzling.  Stunning.  My pictures are on a card and I have misplaced it otherwise, I would post them here for all to see.  😞   When I find it, I will post them.  This stunning car (other than the year)  has the chassis that  may be the same that you are working on.  

 

With all the other beautiful marks at the show, I spent more time with that Cadillac and the owners taking pictures of the engine bay, suspension and some undercarriage shots.  It was restored 6 years ago and the owner has put on 400 miles only since the car was finished, only driving it on occasion.  Stunning.  

 

The early 30's cars were not only automobiles but works of art.  The detail that you are capturing in your model boggles the mind.  Every nuance and item is carefully thought out and then you make it !   

 

This latest item, the radiator hoses, is testament to your ingenuity.  Not just rubber tubes, but  RIBBED rubber tubes !  Another detail that you amaze us with.

[keiser31]

2 hours ago, Randiego said:

MIND BOGGLING ! ! !

 

Roger,

 

It is May in SO CAL.  AND STILL COLD !  The weather patterns are changing.  I hope that Spring time in the Confoederatio Helvetia will be a welcome change to the cold winter.  With warmer air comes the  time to drive the 1:1 cars to the meets.  🙂 

 

This year, there was a 1931 Cadillac V 16 Roadster at the La Jolla Motorcar  Concourse show here in San Diego.  It was silver bodied with black fenders and a black interior.  And the chrome was dazzling.  Stunning.  My pictures are on a card and I have misplaced it otherwise, I would post them here for all to see.  😞   When I find it, I will post them.  This stunning car (other than the year)  has the chassis that  may be the same that you are working on.  

 

With all the other beautiful marks at the show, I spent more time with that Cadillac and the owners taking pictures of the engine bay, suspension and some undercarriage shots.  It was restored 6 years ago and the owner has put on 400 miles only since the car was finished, only driving it on occasion.  Stunning.  

 

The early 30's cars were not only automobiles but works of art.  The detail that you are capturing in your model boggles the mind.  Every nuance and item is carefully thought out and then you make it !   

 

This latest item, the radiator hoses, is testament to your ingenuity.  Not just rubber tubes, but  RIBBED rubber tubes !  Another detail that you amaze us with.

I think this is that car before the silver paint was applied. I spotted it in a garage in La Jolla years ago.

[Roger Zimmermann]

For the moment, the rubber boots for the front brakes are a flop. As I wanted to cut corners, that's the result! I did the negative molds with silicone rubber and attempted to make the boots by using directly the rubber molds. Next to the alignment issue with two soft parts, the wax was probably used too sparingly and one boot's half stayed into the mold. Now, I'm taking another short cut by casting one half mold with hard resin. I hope I can remove the positive brass part from the hardened resin...
Another detail had to be added: the lower water tube going from the radiator to the water pump. From the myriad number of pictures I have, there is just one photo partly showing the tube. From the water pump, the tube is going between  the crankcase and the generator's air outlet, then by doing a large curve, the tube is going between the draft tube and the frame and finally up to the radiator. The first curve is making sense: the generator can be removed without disturbing the water circuit.
I had to rework the RH draft tube as it was on the way to the tube...
Like the draft tubes, I hope that the water tube is more or less approaching the reality!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The brass part representing the outer surface from the boot was easily removed from the epoxy resin. Unfortunately, there were bubbles at the edge of the separation surface, rendering the part non usable. I did a new one; this time, I used my electric vacuum pump to avoid the issue. This time, I had no problem. After letting the resin for some days until it's hard, I was ready to do the second halve. I did the walls with plastiline as cardboard was not practical. The first half was less than the exact half from the brass part; as a consequence, the second part was over the middle of the embedded part. Will I be able to remove the brass part? 
The very slow setting of the resin allowed me to remove the brass part easily: after two days, the resin is still flexible. On the picture four holes can be seen; they will used to insert pins to have both parts in the proper position.
While the resin was slowly getting set, I began with the hub caps. This is a simple part with one difficulty: the octagon at the center. This will make the mold more complicated to do. Till I'm finding a solution, I did the retaining rings which will be soldered on the hub caps; one (the seventh) is on the wheel. 

[Buicknutty]

 Awesome work Roger. This is a fabulous thread (if I haven't said so before!) and I enjoy reading your progress, and sometimes even the lack thereof due to the various technical problems you encounter. The best part is how overcome all those obstacles to create to next piece of the puzzle!

Keith

[Roger Zimmermann]

The molds for the brake’s rubber boots went well. However, the first try to make one piece is so so: I had to cut it to remove it from the internal core. I’m wondering if the black product I have to ad at the transparent resin is not the reason why those parts are lacking some strength. I will try with the white material I have.

In between, I finished the ignition coils and I glued them to the radiator. The tiny screws are fake and therefore are just for the show.

Another detail: the caps for the oil filling at the heads are now done. Easy parts, except the 80 grooves at the outside diameter… The process was similar to the ribs for the water hoses.

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Those filler caps are really cool, Roger. But, then didn't we know they were gonna be? Nice work always. 

I am curious about the little hole in the radiator, between the coils. What is it going to be for? If you already mentioned it, I've let it slip away. Happens more nowadays than it did sixty years back. haha

[Roger Zimmermann]

Ah, ah! Small hole...For what? It's my understanding that the coolant temperature unit should go there. There is nothing on the wiring diagram from the shop manual, but there is a temp gauge on the dash.

Unfortunately, I don't understand the second part from the first line...

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Thanks for the answer, Roger. Makes some sense, doesn't it?

I meant that we knew that these, or whatever you would fabricate next was going to be worth seeing- that they always are. 

Edited May 22, 2023 by Pat Hollingsworth (see edit history)

[Roger Zimmermann]

Bad explanation from me: this is the sentence I don't understand: Those filler caps are really cool, Roger. But, then didn't we know they were gonna be? 

When I did the radiator, I never gave an indication about the small hole, so your memory is not at fault!

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Roger, sometimes I don't understand my own use of the English language. But, those filler caps still look darn nice. 

[JamesR]

8 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Those filler caps are really cool, Roger. But, then didn't we know they were gonna be? 

I take that to mean that Pat was expecting stellar work from Roger, and his expectations were met, and not surprisingly. Roger's work truly is stellar. When I was looking at the bottom of the engine mounted in the frame, I thought I was looking at an actual car. Only the brass color indicated it was a model, at least to my eyes.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Some time ago, I began the hub caps. Small, just an octagon décor on the center...will be quickly done. For the dies, I recycled old wheel cover ones, therefore I had not too much brass waste. The issue with the octagon became such a difficulty I had to change my plan.
As you can see from the picture, the LH lower hub cap has two problems: the octagon is not centered and the brass is teared. The centering could be solved; with more play between the male and female dies I could avoid the tearing, but the lines would not be sharp. The new plan: the octagon will be full brass, silver soldered on the dish. Then, the excess material at the back will be milled away as the hub caps are a tight fit with the central nut at each wheel. This method will allow to have sharp lines compensating the extra work.
 

[Pat Hollingsworth]

I can see that the press-forming at home would be quite a task. Your second, more straight-forward plan is a sure winner.

 

Are the many pieces that will need plating going to be a problem in Switzerland? It is becoming more difficult to find a plater here in the US with all the health and environmental restrictions. They are vanishing from the scene, where they were once pretty common. I once funded the plating for a project by working as a helper (no skill- involved tasks). That at a time when the shops were so busy that extra help was useful. Now, about two or three guys at most employed at our shops that remain. 

[Roger Zimmermann]

It's funny: the other wheel covers I did were larger and more complicated, but just circular. Once both dies were done, it was "easy"! And now, that small hub cap is creating more problems than anticipated! 

Since years, I'm going to a large company which is mostly working for the watch industry. The boss (Owner, may be) is younger than me, I hope that I will have no problem!

[Randiego]

Roger,

In Switzerland, the plating industry probably has been through all the environmental changes that have plagued the US recently.  Switzerland is a lot more concious regarding pollutants, water quality and such.  It is such Pristine Country and beautiful.  The mountain air  is changed out often by the breezes.  The beautiful lakes are replentished from the snowmelt. 

As a non native looking in, Switzerland is probably the cleanest of all the European countries.  The people are meticulous with neatness and cleanliness.   But this is me talking.....an outsider looking in.  I am sure that you know of some discrepancies that we are not aware of.  But for the most part, I am sure that the strict government of your country would never let air pollution or poor water quality ever get a "toe hold" before the officials came down on the culprit, eh? 

Back to the Cadillac.  Who would have thought that the hubcap(s) would present such a problem?  As usual, you have come up with a solution to another problem.  Why am I not surprised?  Great work, Roger.

[Pat Hollingsworth]

My granddaughter just yesterday returned from a school tour to France and Switzerland, where she rode a cog train up the mountain. She is in a state of amazement over the beauty of those two days near Bern in your country. And, that's from a girl raised here in the beautiful area near Lake Tahoe and our beautiful Sierra Nevada mountains. So, I agree with Randiego that you live in a grand place Roger. This girl knows good scenery when she sees it.

But, I still hope you have smooth sailing when time comes to plate your amazing pieces of work. 

[Roger Zimmermann]

After the summer break, it was time to resume the hub caps story. As the center part was unpractical to stamp, I did separate octagons and silver soldered them to the cap. Thanks to the possibility to use a small quantity of paste, no rework was needed and the joints were perfect without voids. To achieve that, the backs of the octagons had to be hollow, following that way the shape of the caps. Once soldered, the shaft was milled away.
Now, I have to soft solder the attaching flanges to the caps.

[Paulie9fingers]

They look very nice Roger

[Roger Zimmermann]

Finally, all hubcaps are more or less ready for plating. Some decals will be added later: the one in the middle and the black lines near the outside diameter. Maybe I will have to paint the lines because a flat decal will not go well on a curved surface...
 

 

[keiser31]

BEAUTIFUL!

[Paulie9fingers]

That looks incredible, I have to keep reminding myself that it's not real full size stuff.

[drhach]

Roger, you mentioned concerns about a decal wrapping around the hubcap. When I was building a scale model I used a product called "Micro Sol". I don't know if you're familiar with this product or those like it. It actually softens decals and allows them to conform to odd shapes. Scale modelers often use this to allow decals to take the shape of rivets and seams on models airplanes and cars. 

 

[Pat Hollingsworth]

Roger, that is terrific looking work. And, the mounted one makes an assemblage that is a wonderful model in its own right- yet, is but a small portion of the incredible total. I once thought myself a patient (or was that persistent?) fellow. You have it all over me, sir. Thanks again for the posts of your work.  

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks to Keiser31, drhach and Pat for your comments.

@drhach: thanks for the tip regarding the decals. I was not aware about that product. I hope it will still exist when I'm will be ready to apply the decals!

[Buicknutty]

 Once again I feel so blown away with your workmanship, thank you for sharing.

Keith

[Roger Zimmermann]

But, Keith, it was jut a simple hub cap!

Anyway, thanks for the comment.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Since I did the wheels for the model, I wondered how I could do the "beauty rings" which are installed on the rims. Turning from stock was not an option as the section is so small it cannot be held on jaws. Soldering on a support could be done, but for that  some turning would be anyway difficult. On day, I got the idea to do them with flat brass pressed between two dies. However, this system would produce a lot of waste. I came with the idea to use band shaped like a donut. To validate my idea, I did two tentative: one with a brass band 0.2mm thick and the other one with 0.3mm thick brass. Both were not easy to shape at the right diameter, but the thinner one was too delicate. The first prototype shown is with the thicker brass.

 

The second picture is showing the bands ready to be shaped; one is half way finished. 

[Paulie9fingers]

The prototype looks very nice, Roger will they be held in place by friction on an adhesive ?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Right now, its the friction which help it to stay in place. Once the wheel are painted and the trim ring plated, maybe the friction will be hich enough to keep it in place. But maybe not if the model is driving at 100 MPH!

[Donotlift]

I am a retired a Movie/Television model maker and specialist effects consultant. Your work is in a league by itself. Amazing, incredible, astounding doesn’t even begin to describe your talent. Thank you for sharing, spent hours reading this thread and I don’t feel I wasted a second. 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks for your comments! I suppose that the movie or television does not need such a detailed model(s). As the action is usually rather quick, the eyes are not retaining all aspects, therefore only the the ground shape must be right. No need for electric widow lifts (for a car) or other futile detail!

You had certainly an interesting job...

[Roger Zimmermann]

The other five rings are now finished. The main issue was to bring the outside diameter as the rings are not at all stable. Polishing them for plating will not be easy either! 
The two other rings missing on the picture are temporarily on the spare wheels. On the right of the picture: the tools to shape the rings; they were first used for the Mark II's wheel covers, then modified for the hub caps and finally for the rings.

[Pat Hollingsworth]

What a revalation! I never thought of the prep for plating when it was discussed earlier. That is mostly what I did (along with grunt/gopher work) in my part-time job at the plater.. To do it on parts as delicate as tho ones you have would truly scare me.

As an aside, the shop did some restoration work and the fellow who did it was a real craftsman. I remember him doing the hood ornaments for several classic cars and the delicate work he did on them. I got to help with a couple of 'easy' ones. A mid-thrties Plymouth ship and like that. He did the Cadillac and Pierce-Arrows, etc.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Interesting that you are aware about the process of plating! As you probably saw with my other models, the parts which have to be plated are attached like a tree, so the plater has only one pice to handle. Otherwise, I don't know how many would be lost or out of shape!

It was certainly a better shop than average: usually hood ornaments are polished with no care for the details...

[Paulie9fingers]

Roger, in reference to polishing the rings, would using a temporary adhesive and gluing them back into the "mold" help in holding them and preserving the shape while polishing ?

[Roger Zimmermann]

This is also what I will probably do!

[Roger Zimmermann]

With some details still missing, the project of the frame and engine is coming to its end. I'm searching what I still could do before trying to do some body parts like grille or fenders. 
One thing is need to complete the engine: the air cleaners. Fortunately, Alex D. gave me the vital dimensions and I could begin the parts which are looking like that:

 

One detail is the main difficulty: the apertures for the air. On a flat part, I could try to do that, but on a cylinder? I found a solution which should create a good illusion. For the moment, I'm showing what I have, the explanation will come later, if all is going as planed!
 

[Paulie9fingers]

Roger I'm pretty sure I know what your plan is, that's a pretty creative solution and should look perfect.

[Roger Zimmermann]

We continue with the air cleaners: I soft soldered each ring separately because for the next operation, the rings must not move. 
If I had the proper cutting tool I could have done the upper part very quickly; unfortunately for me, I'm not equipped to shape cutting tools. Either you have the needed machines or time!