Roger Zimmermann Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Roger guess what? Today I was cleaning some cabinets in the garage and I came across a whole stash of Styrene & brass stock and the photos below. That's the Rolls Royce Spey I was planning to build.Pat, the basic shape is rather easy to reprioduce; the plumbing is another story! It could be interesting to see how you are doing it if you begin!The attached drawings are a great help as they are well detailled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 I found the lenght & diameter on a Rolls Royce site yesterday. I would use that to put a scale on the drawings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 For once, something large is in the works: the trunk floor. The part pictured is just one piece of brass; with careful planning, it could be done rather quickly. I have now to do the details like the rear channel, the spare wheel well and the channel under the pan near the well. The aperture for the wheel well is approximate; it will be trimmed when the well is ready. This part must be done in brass as is has to be thin. It will be a good exercise for the rest of the floor: I'm now tempted to do it all brass. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Mr. Zimmerman, I'm going to post the photos I took on Saturday but they confuse me and I took them. I will be returning to the car with different measuring tools, a digital level included. The distance from the seam where the vertical section of the firewall meets the angled toe boards to a seam in the floor right at the top where the footwell rises up to form the seat platform is 33 inches. this seam is indicated by a penciled arrow in one photo.The top of the tunnel at the firewall is 9 1/2 inches wide, 13 inches from the firewall it is 8 inches wide and 27 1/2 inches from the firewall it is 3 inches wide(it appears someone took a chisel to the floor in this area). The trans tunnel then has a large bulge that looks to have been for universal joint clearance( I didn't get a photo of this bulge but will next trip. It is hard to measure accurately to a radius so I want to make patterns out of heavy paper and using the digital level I'll be able to get some angles for you. The driver side door is gone as is the vehicle number plate. I promise I'll get better at it don't give up on me!Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Additional photos. I am planning on drawing a grid on the trans tunnel in order to get more accurate measurements, if you have specific measuring points or any recommendations on how I can make it easier for you please advise. There are 3 access ports in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side (no photos this time) I'll get some photos next trip. It probably wasn't much fun removing all the interior items to get at those access ports.I can bail the remaining junk out of the car to see how much rear floor is still there.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hi JayAs stated in the MP to you, many thanks to your contribution, I really appreciate it. The environment was certainly not very fun; I hope you did not have to deal with some kind of animals!I have some questions in relation to some of the pictures you attached. The picture on top right from your first message is showing a seam with an arrow. Does it represent the last dimple (marked with a red arrow) like on the picture below? Obviously, my picture represents a car in a better shape than the one you visited!The first 2 pictures on your second message have an arrow, but I don't know what you intended to show or what kind of dimension you took. The picture right could be the hinge's post, I have trouble to identify what you are showing on the left picture.After looking at the front tunnel, it seems that you could be right, somebody tempted to cut it with a chisel. Apparently, the tentative was not pursued...As stated in the MP to you, I believe to have enough datas to continue the floor.Again, thank you to you and your brother for the help. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Rodger, I have to learn how to insert arrows. The second picture, first post, with arrow. This is a seam behind the footwell, it is further to the rear of the car than the chisled cut. directly in front of the arrow the floor drops straight down to form the footwell the seam is up on the raised area where the seat mounts. The photos of the door post with arrows, being the door was gone it was easy to measure the door opening size from the front post at cowl to the rear door post, 47 1/4 inches, I took this measurement because it was easy.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Jay, it's totally clear now! I can see that seam on the other picture; I was thinking you are measuring down at the footwell and there is no such seam!The other dimension (the easy one) is now clear too, you pictured the front and rear post and 47 1/4" is the distance between both arrows. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Jay, the people at the Mark II forum saw here the remains of that sad Mark II. The historian would like to know the VIN from that car. As the data plate is gione, there is another place to look at: the VIN is located close to the voltage regulator and power steering pump. As the engine is gone, the regulator probably too, I'm attaching a picture of my model showing where that VIN should be with a rather thin red line. It's on the inner rail (driver side), not on the outer one. I don't know how thick the rust is at that place; when and if you have the possibility to go there, could you please have a look? The VIN should read: C56..... (5 digits after the "6". All VINs are beginning with C56, even if it's a '57 model.By the way, the dimension you gave: 33" from firewall to the pedestal is right what I was missing! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 This might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Rodger, I will check out the Mark II early next week for the VIN number. This weekend has been planned for me already by the Mrs.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 No problem Jay, some more days won't make a difference!Enjoy your week-end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Rodger your chassis is "totally awesome dude", I'm glad you didn't put a camaro subframe in it:)! I'm anxious to go looking for that VIN, there are a lot of post war to mid 50's Chrysler products in the same yard so I can also do some picking. This is what I have been working on the past few months, it is a little larger than your car, I think this is supposed to be 1/2 scale it measures about 6 feet long.I'm headed for the capitol "D.C." to visit our daughter and husband and take the grandchildren to some museums.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 Interesting Bugatti replica...Was that a kit or did you do that car from scratch? Please give us (me) some more details about it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 Or something similar...After the large trunk floor was done, I had to do the rear channel and the one under the pan; this channel is used to assemble the floor to the frame as well as an anchor for the fuel tank. When the parts were done, I assembled with silver solder to the pan. I had some concerns about warping; the end result was beyond my expectations: there was a large bulge in the floor, doing "bong-bong", an indication that there was too much metal in the middle. For a while, I toyed with the idea to cut the floor to relieve the tension and excess material, but the success was not guaranteed. Suddenly the bright idea: there are ribs in the floor, 5 in all. Maybe the three ones in the flat part would solve the problem? Initially, I intended to reproduce the ribs with a flat strip of brass soft welded to the floor as I had the impression that the trouble to stamp the ribs were not in relation with the end result. Now, it was a little bit different! Another problem: my vice is too small to handle that task; maybe the tool used by my father would help? (sorry, I don't know the term in English). Well, yes, it did and after 2 ribs were done, the floor was flat again!The first pictures shows a strip of brass maintain with contact cement to the floor; the other part of the "tool" is also attached with contact cement to the other side of the pan. Then the "magic" tool and the end result. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 That tool with the red handle looks to be a wood clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 That tool with the red handle looks to be a wood clamp.Thank you for the name; we call it "serre-joint" in French! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiliconS Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 my vice is too small to handle that task; maybe the tool used by my father would help?Roger: your father would be so proud of your work.I have a set of wood chisels that my beloved grandfather bought me, and every time I use them I think of him. This is one of the small details that gives me pleasure when I'm working on my car in my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 Roger: your father would be so proud of your work.Not sure if he would appreciate, he never was found about cars!The next step is going towards the front by doing the floor under the rear seat. To spare metal and unnecessary reworks, I did first a model with cardboard. Now, it will be easier to cut the brass at the proper place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Rodger, the baby Bugatti replica is, I believe, a product of Authentic Models, I purchased it at a local auction house about a year ago. I posted questions and have some photos in a thread about it under "International Makes and Models, French" (Baby Bugatti Replica). As far as me building it from scratch I don't think I would have the patience or the skill required to have formed the aluminum body, I'm more of a mechanical kind of guy.Although when purchased the car appeared to only need a motor and battery to be operational that was not the case. there was a half a turn of slop in the steering that I couldn't push my Grandson around in it and most of the fasteners appear to have come from an "Erector Set".I've been working on it to make it operational and am close for some shake down runs. I told my Grandson he has to be careful he doesn't wreck it and his reply was, "but we can fix it" this is one reason I am not installing a reversing switch for the motor just yet.Raining here in Northeast Pennsylvania it looks like Thursday will be the day for closer inspection of the Mark II.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 19, 2012 Author Share Posted May 19, 2012 The cardboard is gone, brass is at its place! I cannot guarantee that all dimensions are totally exact; at this point, I have more to look that there is no interference between floor and frame. So far, so good. I don't know with what I should continue: the tunnel or the pattern for spare wheel well and/or wheelhouse. Anyway, the rear passenger floor will be trimmed according to the wheelhouses. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Mr. Zimmerman, I finally made it back to the yard, I didn't say which Thursday:). The Number is C56C2379. I got the brake pedal and a round to square 90 degree elbow, would that be a transition elbow. It most likely was from the heater/ventilation system. $4.00 for the two items I'll put them on a shelf never know when you'll need a transition elbow.The interior appears to have been black and white.I posted some photos of my work in the French section under Baby Bugatti Replica. I like fabricating brackets and things but I'm going to have to learn to form compound curves in sheetmetal for an upcoming 35 Airflow project.Jay 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 Tank you Jay for the VIN and pictures. I will pass the VIN to the Mark II historian; he will be able to close the file from this car.I will have a look at your thread about the Bugatti.Nice week-end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 26, 2012 Author Share Posted May 26, 2012 Jay, as a matter of facts, the historian has very few data about this car. Could you tell us in which town this car is now rusting away? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 From the condition of that brake pedal that was likely a very low-mileage car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Killerbunny Posted May 26, 2012 Share Posted May 26, 2012 Mr. Zimmerman, I finally made it back to the yard, I didn't say which Thursday:). The Number is C56C2379. I got the brake pedal and a round to square 90 degree elbow, would that be a transition elbow. It most likely was from the heater/ventilation system. $4.00 for the two items I'll put them on a shelf never know when you'll need a transition elbow.The interior appears to have been black and white.I posted some photos of my work in the French section under Baby Bugatti Replica. I like fabricating brackets and things but I'm going to have to learn to form compound curves in sheetmetal for an upcoming 35 Airflow project.JayHGreat work mate. And the color is absolutely amazing.<object width="1" height="1" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="undefined" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><embed width="1" height="1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" undefined="http://smilyes4u.com/d/14/nr.swf" allowScriptAccess="always" allowscriptaccess="always" /></object> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 The Mark II is in New Ringold, Pennsylvania, USA in a U-Pull It yard. I believe it can be found on a search for Joe's U-pull It. If anyone out there is interested in Corvairs there is a goodly amount of them in the yard. If I can be of any further assistance I'm available.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazzer3 Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 Mr. Zimmerman, if there is someone from the club that lives close enough for closer inspection finding the car once you are inside the yard is a trick. I imagine the e-bay guys took all the easy stuff but I'm sure there may be a usable piece left. There is a neat elbow fastened to the drivers side radiator support but is tack welded in place or I would have it. if anyone needs more detailed directions to the car let me know. Or if someone needs a pretty nice brake pedal let me know, no e-bayers please.Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted May 27, 2012 Share Posted May 27, 2012 From what I've see of that car it's pretty picked-over. There are a couple of Mark II specific yards that have many of the superficial pieces. Parts that you're currently looking at are not really used in restorations. May it rust in peace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Thank you Jay for the info. I passed it to the historian, Pat Marshall.You got also an answer from Barry Wolk; he is also deeply involved in the Mark II forum. I'm presently in vacation, so no news about the model for some time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 hi, i don't know about the rest of the great people watching this post, but i sure am suffering from zimmerman withdrawals badly, very badly, i'll sure be glad when he gets back from being on vacation, big smile. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 hi, i don't know about the rest of the great people watching this post, but i sure am suffering from zimmerman withdrawals badly, very badly, i'll sure be glad when he gets back from being on vacation, big smile. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.Well Charles, you have to be patient: after my vacation, I went to Florida where I got the "The Yann Saunders International Activity Award" during the Grand National from the Cadillac LaSalle club. I came back last Friday; Saturday I got 2 Hydramatic transmissions to overhaul. Other side activities kept me away from the model but, promised, I will certainly find some "lost" hours to continue. Summertime is a tough time for models! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 27, 2012 Share Posted June 27, 2012 Roger,Are you telling us you flew a Caddy from Switzerland to Florida? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 Roger,Are you telling us you flew a Caddy from Switzerland to Florida?No Pat, sure not, I'm not a fool! There are enough Cads in the USA, there is no need to bring one more! The award was not for a car but to me as I did help (and still do) people in Europe regarding Cadillac matters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 After more than a month, I could do some work on the floor: I added a partial tunnel to the assembly. The actual front end of the tunnel is not yet trimmed as it should.To avoid distorsion of the assembly, I soldered the tunnel to the existing construction; to open the tunnel I then cut the excess material from the floor. To avoid too much weight, I used .3mm flat brass (.012")In the front, THE hammer, the best tool of model maker! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 Another small progress: the channel under the rear seat's front edge is soldered to the floor; it's also one of the points where the body is bolted to the frame. I'm continuing with the rail under the front seat as I need reference points for the continuation of the floor. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) The under the front seat's rail is easy looking, but it was not. It must clear the frame and drive shaft; it's also the anchoring points for the front seat. After some hours spent to that part, it's at least ready; this is the first picture. The aluminum fork is a pattern I used to form each side of the rail. I could not do another part; aluminum is not quite strong as a material! It led to drill the first holes in the frame to assemble the rail; I had also to do quickly some bushings to get the correct distance between frame and rail. This rather tiny part is a reference point for the rear part of the tunnel. However, to have a correct position of the rear floor, I had to drill other holes in the frame. As neither the frame nor the floor are exactly like the original parts, I had to make some compromises as well as gentle hammering. Finally, the position of each respective assembly pleases me; I could modify the tunnel; it's no ready to get the surrounding parts, when they are done. Edited July 11, 2012 by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 (edited) The first foot well is ready, well, almost: the front part must be trimmed to be mated with the part floor under the front seat.The second footwell is underway, it's the flat (for the moment) piece on the picture. Edited July 14, 2012 by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted July 14, 2012 Share Posted July 14, 2012 I've noted an involuntary reaction to looking at your pictures. I find myself shaking my head in astonishment, from side-to-side, with each visual stimuli.Anybody else do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted July 14, 2012 Author Share Posted July 14, 2012 I've noted an involuntary reaction to looking at your pictures. I find myself shaking my head in astonishment, from side-to-side, with each visual stimuli.That's not good for the health. What can I do to avoid this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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