SeanR

send your wheel to Dallas Custom Steering Wheel and have him recover it. Pricey but worth every penny! Had one done before.

Not to hijack this thread but I just had a very similar debate with a Reatta seller on Craigslist. Had somewhere around 68k miles, coupe, no pics. Asking price $17,500! I nearly choked in laughter. I emailed and confirmed it was a coupe but with sunroof. Politely said low mileage example coupes go for 4-8k. Gave statistics on build numbers and she was adamant about the price. WOW. her final response? "Thank you for your feedback but I don't need to sell it and would not consider the prices you mentioned. Blue Book really means nothing, it's just a guide." Okay, good luck with that.

I don't think a Reatta necessarily has to be a visual rust bucket in order to be considered a throw away car when factoring overall value. When I was competing with another buyer at the dealer to buy my Reatta, the other prospective couple eventually backed off just because of the age of the car despite getting a clean bill of health from their mechanic's inspection. After buying my Reatta, I've had to replace speakers, the 16way power seat trim piece, repair a rear defog line, replace harmonic balancer, and replace headlight bushings. Each time I found myself cursing at the work, I had to remind myself that if I had let this car go to that couple, the Reatta would have probably met a junkyard fate. It takes an enthusiast to maintain them and let's face it, the general population has no desire or clue on maintenance. We have become a throw-away society and the resale values reflect that. You have to buy these specialty cars for your personal hobbies and nothing more, perhaps maybe for the occasional "that's a cool car" compliment. The market is just too saturated with auto brands that never existed 24 years ago. Unfortunately, many general public Reatta owners on Craigslist have caught on to that urban legend of premium Reatta mentality and want to price it like a rare gem without putting in any restoration but expect at or above resale value for ROI (return on investment). Hence, look at majority of ads and you find many of them rolling junkyard cars and that's why many of us here find this topic so controversial and insulting.

Looks like your missing the cruise control servo unit.

I hear ya on the CL ads that are out of their minds. This person has been trying to sell a severely damaged bondo Reatta for the past year. The interior is all dingy and it has high mileage. Not a realistic seller. 1990 buick reatta coupe--166k miles 3.8liter--26mpg

I noticed that your fog lights are flush with the bumper along with Kevin's. On my 88, they stick out a bit beyond the opening. Was it a running change for 89+?

On long road trips, how do you protect the front and windshield from bugs and rocks?

Had this same problem with a partally functioning bulb. The element had burned off and reattached to the secondary filament. At least try a different bulb.

Not sure how to explain this. It was the one with the Craft centre tour and the TV reporter was building his own car. There was like two videos about the craft centre on youtube and they are both gone.

Videos associated to this account are gone. 1988 Buick Reatta Commercial - ReattaOwner.com

Well if you have the 411 on brighter LED's with same or greater # of SMD's, please share it. Have to be careful when comparing prices considering not all retailers are giving the same # of SMD output.

I would have to disagree that it can't be done and done effectively. You can continue using the stock flasher, would just need to splice in 2 resistors for the rear and it should work no differently than the fiero. Check out Top Line Group Automotive - Fiero 350z MR2 Supra C4 and More as they sell great looking LED bulb kits. I bought switch back front turn signals for my Fiero and they look great. Here's a video on the notchback install which is similar to the Reatta. Top Line Group Automotive - Fiero 350z MR2 Supra C4 and More

I mentioned this about a month ago but the Reatta Craft Centre videos disappeared when the account that uploaded them got terminated for copyright infringement. I remember one had a guy building his own car. Does anyone else have them to put back online?

Thank you for the suggestion! Next on my to-do list!

I don't know what my Reatta's problem is lately. Yesterday drove it over 25 miles to get oil changed, grocery store, etc and not once did it give me any problems. This morning I tried to start it and it sputtered and died. Finally got it running steady around 475-500rpm! I remembered you guys said it had a power steering switch. I flicked the steering ever so slightly and the RPM's jumped to 875 or so. Made it about two blocks away and the car died while coasting to a stop sign. It restarted again and I kept driving. It was shuddering ever so slightly while coming to a stop but it wasn't anything like a TCC issue. I drove it another 23 miles and it's fine now. I pulled into the parking lot and restarted it multiple times with no issue. I hope I make it home today!

I thought it was the tonneau boot cover in the trunk. Guess Reatta didnt have those!

Good eyes but it looks OEM to me?

Thank you EVERYONE for the input! It was the CPS!! I can't stress this enough that it should be replaced when replacing the HB. Nothing like getting pissy after having to basically perform the same job TWICE! I sure do hope I got that balancer on tight enough. I admit, I did not use a torque wrench for the job. I just pushed and pushed on that breaker bar as best I could. I also broke off the plastic flywheel cover. I found one bolt on the outside and couldn't figure out how to get it removed and just snapped it off because I was mostly frustrated. It's okay, got the cover on good with just that one center bolt. I double measured when putting the HB back and the clearance with the CPS. I then took the HB back off and tightened up the CPS retainer bolt. I tried to spin the HB and guesstimate the clearance. When I got it all put back together and fired it up, absolutely no noise like I had yesterday! So I'm assuming the blades aren't touching the CPS fins. Drove it all afternoon close to home and it ran great. Maybe even had more pep?

Think this is a good deal? Bugs me no mileage is listed. 1990 Buick Reatta Very RARE . this is a must see . 2 seater drop top

I just got done running a wire from the coil pack to a metal ground on the cowel while turning it over and didnt see not one spark. I also took some time to read old posts and this seems to be a too common problem where we all should have replaced the CPS while the balancer was already off! Dammit! So if I read historical posts correctly, the CPS is what makes the coil packs use to determine fire order? It appears the CPS is completely dead. Most outcomes from the other posts indicate the car was fixed after replacing the CPS. I doubt the coil packs are bad because they are aftermarket replaced by the dealer about 8 months ago. I see that Autozone and Oreillys has CPS units for 27.99 and 25.99 respectively. The Autozone has a lifetime warranty and Oreillys only 1 year warranty. Which one would you pick?

Hmm no I have not. If the cam sensor was disturbed I was more focused in that direction. If the sensor is somewhat out of order, will the engine fire at all or do nothing just like a failed ignition module?

I successfully replaced the harmonic balancer in my 88. Slid the new balancer on and made sure to align and lock the balancer on the factory keyway slot. Ran the car after putting the belt back on for over 20 minutes. There seemed to still be some rubbing noises but I couldnt distinguish if it was coming from the HB or the alternator. So I took the belt off and started it up again to see if the noise would stop from what appeared to be the alternator. HB still had some noise to it and didn't really sound that much different than before. The 48k original HB didnt look shredded or bad compared to the new one. Didn't appear anything was rubbing against the cam sensor. I put the belt back on, started it up, and it was running fine for over 5 minutes and then it just shut off as if I turned the key off. Now it just turns over and doesnt hit at all when turning over the crank. There are no ECM codes present or in history. I checked all the fuses on the passenger panel and none are failed. I looked at the sensor plug and everything is still aligned up, nothing is broken off with no interference. The sensor could be wiggled some but nothing out of the ordinary prior to the no-crank problem. What should I look at next? :confused:

Would you happen to have a pic of the 88 vs. all other emblems? I've yet to see what the difference is since I've not seen another Reatta in person before.

One is pink and the other is black -so is the voltage output different? Can't we just buy a group of these inverters? Thought I read in a post somewhere that the OEM still makes these but that a bulk order was required.

It has been my experience to not use ANY synthetic in ANY older GM model car unless you don't mind oil leaks.