SeanR

I found a great polish from Dura Coating. Watch their demo video. https://dura-coating.com/collections/machine-polishers-pads/products/headlight-clear-plastic-polish-4oz

Sorry for the much delayed response. I ended up replacing with a 91+ ICM/Coil unit from a later GM car and never had the problem since! Best upgrade an owner can do.

Don't throw it out, call a Dr. Vinyl franchise! They can do their magic and restore tears, punctures, and even spray match the texture. Quite pleased with the franchise I used.

Mine is doing this too in the past few weeks. Im trying to find a pattern, but I think it happens in wet road conditions and when I take it to car wash with under spray. It was driving fine till I took it to the car wash, then it would just randomly buck and die unexpectedly. It would restart, but had me concerned about trying to drive it back home on a busy highway, so I had it towed home and havent investigated it. Like yourself, I have also replaced the coil a few years ago and the crank sensor behind the HBalancer. I did clean up airflow sensor with electrical spray. Definitely trying to attack this from cheapest to most expensive.

HR6 stands for REVISED. Its has updated internals for R134 reverse compatibility.

www.rodneydickman.com sells all headlight repair items including the delrin bushings.

Wow after several years absence I am shocked to see my OP thread still active. I just got my Reatta back so I'll be active again on here. :)

So I had chimed in on this thread about my Reatta dying while driving. I thought I was running out of gas, and it had about an hour to cool down and managed to restart just long enough to get me stuck in heavy traffic. So I drove my trusty Honda down to Portland, OR for a fun weekend and had time to pick up ICM and coils from O'Reilly Auto. Worked out great for me since Oregon has no sales tax! When I arrived home, I took apart the coil assembly and quickly found the problem. The green GOO was inside the coil hidden by the foam insulation, so it would be hard to see on frequent inspection. The only way to frequently check, would be to take off the torx screws and check for stickiness sandwiched internally. After removing the coil packs, I finally noticed some green goo dripping on the coolant hose. Ronnie, Thanks for the Wells video on the coils, however I found the WELLS video a bit misleading. Per their directions, I replaced the coil by putting yellow, green, blue on one side from the connector back. and all blue on the other side. The video claims it "does not matter" which side the wires are connected as long as the blue are all on one side. I didn't pay attention to the 1/3/5/ and 2/4/6 on the front.I installed the Coils and then noticed the numbers were on the wrong side. But I figured that didn't matter as long as I put the plug wires on the right coil #. Well, that didnt work, it seemed to fire on the exhaust stroke and would be powerful enough to screech the accessory belt. Yikes! So I had to take it apart to swap the coils with ODD on left and EVEN on right. I also noticed the original ICM had the yellow/green/blue on the left side, so I swapped sides to match the original. In the video they show all blue on the left and the Y/B/G on the right. My original was exact opposite of their video. At this point, I didn't trust the "does not matter" advice. I can gladly say it fired right up and I drove it 20 miles with no issue. Gas mileage drastically improved as well. I also remember hearing the exhaust sputter these past few years but I just dismissed it as typical 3800 characteristic idle. The idle also seems to be improved. Total cost $202.98 for Wells and I think BWD ICM. Would have preferred AC Delco, but those parts are almost three times the cost. Might want to proactively inspect your coils by removing the six TORX screws and just look for gunk as it might not be readily apparent.

Good suggestions. Where can I buy a fuel pressure gauge to tap into the schraeder valve on top? I'd almost like a permanent one if that's possible. Harbor Freight?

I support these wireless messaging platforms (voice mail, MMS, and SMS) that you all are complaining about. www.comverse.com based in Wakefield, MA and Tel Aviv and www.mavenir.com based in Dallas and India. I've seen the progression from not wanting wireless calls, to leave voicemail instead. Then subscribers wanted texting only because voicemail required two-way interaction steps to dial in, retrieve, and delete. Now folks don't want to even have to call voicemail. They want voicemail to text and MMS only. Subscribers don't want to answer the phone because VoIP calling has made it so easy for telemarketers to spoof numbers. Now spammers are using text messaging and email to mobile traffic to send more spam messaging since subscribers are wising up and not answering from unknown places. The next evolution in messaging soon to launch this year will be "Rich Messaging". You can send direct messages to each other and also see when someone's real time phone status is busy/idle/away/DnD/in meeting/ etc. Seems like we are getting more invasive on the "did you get my text? I see you actively online, why aren't you responding?" realm. Even the customer service reps that send me escalated tickets talk in abbreviated nonsense (CCalld N 2advise msg not wrkng corrtly. Tk out bty and rst location, flwd all tblshtng stps). Half the time the English is so bad that I have to call subscribers to get a better sense of the issue and it's typically only 30% correct of what the actual issue turns out to be.

this really ticks me off if the CPS died again because I replaced it 2 years ago, less than 8k miles, from Autozone. It was a pain to remove the balancer and install this. Im tempted to go replace the coils and ICM box first, because I don't know the history behind them. I was at 1/4 tank of gas yesterday when it just all of a sudden died and I coasted to a side street thinking the gas gauge was overstating how much was left. So I called Hagerty for emergency gas. They gave me three gallons of gas, and it started right up. I figured it was just low on gas. So I whipped a U turn following the tow truck. As soon as I hit the main road it cut out again and died!!! People were very angry that I wasnt moving even though I had hazards on. I coasted halfway off the road into a bus stop. Multiple cars were not paying attention and almost sideswiped my car! Called the tow tuck driver back and he refused to come back and help even though he was still within my sight! I called Hagerty and complained he abandoned me. They said they would call another tow service and have a cop escort traffic away from my car. Another two hours rolls by, and no police and no tow truck, also no automated text from Hagerty. By this point, I was on 3% cell battery and my car battery was dead from the flashers. Hagerty's dispatched the SAME damn tow driver who charged me $15 because he claimed I was over my coverage limit. He towed my car home where it now sits in my driveway. Now I'm estimating either ICM/CPS cooled off enough and started which allowed me to take off just long enough to die again. All with a car with 51k miles.

my 88 has gloss black

So are you saying that if 12V power is applied to this green wire, it will bypass the 18x ring process and should start? Today I had a disaster with my Reatta dying on me in the middle of traffic.

Any thoughts on why the 88 brochure has the typical turn/cruise/wiper stalk vs. the odd style one found in 88-89? Why would they photograph this type only to switch back to the standard style across all brands in 90?

Saw this in Fiero group. Would this be of any use to anyone? My shifter is starting to fade at night. ;( Maybe someone can chime in on what to buy for a DIY repair kit? http://www.adafruit.com/products/414

Please be open to ideas. I'd love to have LED's in the fog lights and true projector HID H6054 conversion. I agree that one should never install HID in a reflector housing, but 35W HID fog lamps should be okay. I just converted my Accord halogen projectors with HID and it's precise as stock HIDs, no glare. The point is to find projector style instead of reflector. Also, 4300k is white light. Going above that it starts turning ricer blue and reduces the lumen output. 4300k is a perfect white color. 6000k is too blue. I buy my stuff from either TLG Auto or The Retrofit Source. https://www.theretrofitsource.com/

Probably just need to find a switchback same color LED bulb. For example of a switchback. Since this forum wont allow FFWD, go to 6:33. http://youtu.be/80rMQVhYOTU?t=6m33s

After looking at these photos you need to find a new A/C guy. https://www.facebook.com/ACManLLC/photos_stream Same repair guy I sent ol' yeller to.

I disagree. R134 gets just as cold as R12. I wish folks would stop pushing that myth around. Frostbite is frostbite. Especially the guys on youtube that are filling systems with keyboard cleaners and propane! I converted two Fieros to R134a and both have vent temps of ranging between 35-39 degrees depending on outside ambient temp. If I stick my hand against the accumulator while it's running, my fingers will stick to the pipes. **Remember**, R134 requires 90% capacity of R12. So perhaps if an A/C conversion is not cooling the same, verify how much refrigerant was pumped in. That will cause the pressure switch to kick off early. Reatta A/C is shitty by design because the airflow is the weakest I've ever seen for a GM vehicle. The automation doors are either pushing a quarter to the floor or some to defrost on Max cooling. The system just suffers from duct leakage. Once it gets up to speed, R12 offers me 41 degrees.

Is there a self serve car wash near Troutdale? Looks like it's also known as Gresham, OR. I can't seem to find a legitimate one on Google maps. I definitely don't want the automated wet sanding mud huts that most people prefer to use.

Yes. I'm going. Looks like it starts at 9am. That means I will have to leave sometime around 5-530am to get there in time to detail from the trip.

that's because when someone installs the R134 adapter kits, they needed to remove the R12 schrader valve FIRST using Four Seasons tool #59302. I ignored this advice twice when converting over (new accumulator, compressor, condenser, hi/lo side fittings). When the schrader valve is not removed, it's essentially double stacking the valve core and it will bend them, especially when fitting on the manifold gauge fittings. You are correct about the cap containing a slight leak. One of the adapter fittings, I was able to salvage it but it leaked just a little. The rubber in the cap was just enough to keep the leaking valve core closed.

Even though my brakes were somewhat good and I never experienced intermittent lights I went ahead and replaced my accumulator from Ronnies store link. Now the braking is crisp and immediate, no more mush. After so many years, the accumulator was losing it's ability to keep a full vacuum. After a while, the accumulator can't hold enough vacuum to get more than 4 pumps, so the abs/brake will flash as the pump is trying to keep up. I can simulate this if you pump it fast, then both lights will come one no matter how new the accumulator is.

Is this the same show as last year that was hosted by Gresham Buick, just a different location?