SeanR

Great explanation. Why did they take DC voltage and change it to AC? Seems like such a wasted effort.

I bought a 24MM socket and it's too small. So what's the correct size socket to remove the 88/89 bolt?

Sorry but I don't have $4500 for an ape-***** wife.

pamelahutson@xxx.net -- If I were you I would petition the site admins to change your user account to something other than your full email address. Spam webcrawlers will find and capture your address and spam you with junk mail.

Thanks ronnie. I understand the overall concept after studying a few replacement articles, I'm just trying to nail down the finer details. I just ask alot of questions before tackling something.

I found this info on another Buick forum from a mechanic. I'm not clear on what this means or if it even applies to the Reatta 3800. What is a "keyway"? :confused: "when you are ready to reinstall the new balancer lube the crank shaft with engine oil and what whatever you do, DO NOT LOOSE THE KEYWAY. Make sure the balancer plates align perfectly with the crank sensor or else you risk damaging the sensor and its mount. Spin the engine by hand so that everything runs smooth and don't forget to torque the center bolt to 186 ft lbs in two stages."

Is installation easier than removal or is there more to it than just bolting the new one back on? Does it have to be pressed on or fitted a certain notch way besides being torqued down? I saw torque values ranging anywhere from 150-300!! Not sure they make a torque wrench that large.

hey thanks that was the same video I watched earlier today. Good to know it's the same procedure.

bump. Ronnie, did you know this link no longer works? Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal - ReattaOwner.com

just curious, why are these harmonic balancers made out of rubber?!? Seems like a big failure point.

thanks. I think I will also take the belt off and start it to make sure the noise is indeed coming from this balancer. Is it hard to replace or involve the cam magnet at all?

Really?!?! At only 48k?!! So unfair! It's not wobbling or leaking or anything like that and started making this noise practically overnight. So it's the cam magnet in there making that noise?

My 88 Reatta with 48k has been fine but had this slight scrape sound when cold. Drove the car last night to a few errands and on when back in the garage starting hearing a metal scraping noise with engine RPM. VIDEO0016.3gp - YouTube The belt is fine. Nothing is wobbling or leaking. It sounds like it's coming from the harmonic balancer pulley. So is this a sign the cam magnet is about to fail??

1994 BUICK REATTA

OK so frustrating. Took my driver door panel off so that I could tap into the TAN power door lock motor wire for the TAN C16 on the RKE module. When I would hit unlock on the keyfob, the lights would dim. Just confused, considering the diagram specifically says hook C16 up to TAN PDL wire. The diagram doesnt really mention the switches and where they play into the setup. So I played around and hooked the tan C16 from the RKE to the black wire from the power door lock switch. It worked perfectly! However, both doors simultaneously unlock! At this point, so tired i don't care and will hook it up this way. Also, ran the car. With door closed, the ADL will kick in and lock the doors. Previously when I would hit the PDL unlock button, the locks wouldnt do anything and the lights would dim. This time around, all features work correctly when the car is running, and regardless whether the locks are locked/unlocked from the door switch or from the key fob! :D:D When the pink ignition run wire is hooked up, the module disregards all keyfob input including the trunk unlock.

Confirmed from that Ebay listing that C16 tan goes to LH door lock motor tan as well.

I checked Ebay and I think I found a comparable example. I just needed to confirm the wire colors. This is so I can hook up RKE C16 pinout directly to the LH door lock motor. POWER DOOR LOCK WIRING HARNESS MONTE CARLO EL CAMINO | eBay

Anyone by chance have a pic of the driver side door lock motor wiring? I've searched but cannot find and don't want to tear down my door again just to look at wires.

Thanks Barney. I think I got a bit overwhelmed and restudied the fuse layout. Appears a previous person installed wrong amp fuses in certain spots which was enough to confuse me.

I was semi-successful in adding ADL locking to my 88 Reatta tonight. I also added stock keyless entry (RKE) from a 92 Seville which has similar module box and remotes. RKE input PIN C13 is hooked up to PIN G3 on C200 wiring or D3 C216 harness(es). When I took the gear out of PARK, the door locks would LOCK. They would return to UNLOCK when I put the car back in park. The only problem I need to continue troubleshooting is TAN wire door lock output C16 from the RKE. When I would press the power unlock on the door, it would cause the lights to dim and the locks wouldn't unlock. If the car is shut off, the locks work fine from the door switch or with the tan RKE wire hooked up. It probably has to do with the fact that I hooked the tan output directly to the F pin (black wire) on the door lock relay. It might need to go directly to the left side door lock instead of the relay. This causes me to lose the feature of staggered unlocking. In other words, pressing unlock causes both driver and passenger door to simultaneously unlock which is a non-issue for me. For a complete 88 install, should I start a new thread covering the other details such as security? :confused: (Attached pic shows where the C216 harness where the transaxle position info is obtained for the ADL feature.)

88 fuse box diagram does not match owners manual? :confused: Is this a known issue where the manual was printed wrong? Trying to find the body fuse and a switched/hot fuse. Also, which side of the fuse would be the hot side vs. circuit side?

Cool. Care to write something up for archives?

88 Reatta Purchased Dec 2011 with 43k miles

Replaced passenger side torque rollers in the headlight motor. Such a PITA to remove the headlight bucket just so one can get to the motor! Once removed, the motor cover screws and rebuild went really smooth.

My 88 does NOT have ADL. On my prior RKE research, only the Riviera had it in the diagram. The RKE dual function is what reacts to park input and outputs the signals to the lock relay.