jan arnett (2)

Looks like a 23 so it would not have been from the first war. Mess kit is second war. Jan

I should have said that the original motor is the same motor as you will find in and automobile. If you want to sell the head I would be interested for my truck. Since you are in Ind. you might want to visit the cincinati fire museum and the next local muster which normally has a flea market. Jan

The OHV head was added to increase the power of the truck. It could have been added when the fire truck was built or added later by the fire department. The OHV head is a nice accessory to have with the truck and can be removed if it is bad. You have a nice and rare truck. There is a fire engine club that I used to belong to called the ding a lings. As was said earlier Dodge/Graham would have built the chasis and then the body builder would have added the fire truck body. try this link to a local club who should be able to help you. http://www.spaamfaa.org/ Lots of luck. Jan

i am not sure if we answered your question. I think you have several problems and you need to separate the prolems. Your hard starting could be caused by bad connections but it also could be bad brush or armature. They could have a high resistance. A simple test without using a growler is see if the back of the starter is hot after starting. Your other problem could be valves that are set to close and when they get hot they will not close. I have had coils and condenser fail when they got hot and then work when they cooled down. A fuel problem could be with the vac. tank, vac. line, or carb. You need to eliminate each possible problem. The simplest way is when it stops check for a spark and eliminate the ignition system. Then work on possible fuel problems. I have been doing this for fifty years and if you break down the problem into small steps you can fix the problem. You are on the right track. Jan

Go to page 3241 in the McMasters Carr catalog and you will find what you need. http://www.mcmaster.com/

Babbet bearings have to be poured. Unless you are putting an oil pump and filter on the engine I would not worry about shell bearings. Babbet is much softer and any particles just embed them selves in it. If you do go to shell bearings you will have to machine the rods and turn the crank journals to make sure they are round. Have a nice day. Jan

The same fastner is used on later model T and model A. You can get them from a Ford suppler or a marine supply house as mentioned earlier. You can also get them from renovators supply and McMaster. Have a nice day. Jan

The strip you refer to is called a tack strip. Even modern convertibles use them. It mounts to the body and then the back seat upholstery goes over the strip and is tacked to it. The top material then goes over the upholstery material and is tacked to the tack strip. I use a modern plastic tack strip on my cars and then use stapples instead of tacks. The fittings you describe are original and they can serve three purposes. On some cars they anchor the cornor of the top, they are also what your side curtain attaches to and they are used when you put a boot over the lowered top. Have a nice Hereshey day. Jan

private message in your profile. Go to the Durant site and post your request. http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/durant/ Jan

If you could send me an email copy it would be appreciated. I am going to put it in the Durant Magazine as they use Lovejoys also. thanks Jan modelt1916@yahoo.com

I thought you might be from Cal when you said that. jan

I would be interested. removespam-modelt1916@yahoo.com Jan Arnett

yes I believe you do. This should give you the frame number. Jan

First thought is don't but it you do you will have to install it at the fuel tank and get one that is adjustable way down in pressure. Jan

You are 100% correct. The English Star looks nothing like the Durant Star. Jan

If gas is being sucked through the vac. line then the engine will run very rich and you will have very little vac to the tank. I have seen this happen once in 40 years and when I removed the line from the intake manifold gas ran out. You are correct it can happen. Have a nice day. Jan

I provided the article on the Durant web site and I have worked with cars that have vac. tanks for the last 40 years and find them extremely reliable. Just take your time and only do one thing at a time and you will find that they are easy to work on. I am not sure what the temp. of the vac line has to do with the tank. Have a nice day. Jan

Andrew: You did not mention what year you have but a 1923 has the vac. tank mounted on the engine. You should move this to the Dodge Forum for more exposure but maybe I can help you. There are several things can cause a engine to stall or sputter when hot. There is a tube between the carb and exhaust manifold that must be in place. A second potential problem is a weak condensor that breaks down when it is hot. Make sure you do not have a crack in the distributor cap or a carbon trail. If you valves are set to tight when then get hot they will not seat and cause backfireing and a lack of power. Hope this helps. Jan

The rugby would have the same crank as a Star. It is esentially a rebadged Star. Jan

Thanks Bob. I sent you my address. Fornately I didn't have any of my Moon parts in the barn. Jan

When we had the last set of tornado's and floods I lost a lot of car parts. One of the items it seems that I lost is the shaft that the clutch pedal fits on. Does anyone have one they want to sell that fits a 1923 dodge. Thanks Jan

Nice looking car. Jan

I believe the one with the four keyways is newer. I have a locking fatman steering wheel on my 1916 Model t and according to my lit on the T they went to multiple keyways as a way of giving drivers the option. I would be interested in you steering wheel for my 23 screenside when you do sell. Have a nice day. Jan

Tony: If you go to the Dodge Forum your problem has been discussed several times. Your two earlier comments are very good and let me add a couple. I have five cars with vac. tanks on them and they all work well when you understand what the vac. tank does and what problems you can have with them. They are not fuel pumps and when you replace them with a fuel pump you can create problems. A vac tank is a holding tank in which fuel is drawn into the tank using the vac. from the engine. It delivers fuel by gravity to the carb. and when you replace it with a fuel pump you will usually overwhelm the needle valve and create additional problems. To test the fuel system I start with the vac. line from the intake manifold and make sure it is not plugged or leaking. There is a pipe plug in the top of the vac tank and you can fill the tank with gas and see if the engine starts and runs. If it does then your carb is ok and you can proceed with the rest of the fuel system. While the engine is running disconnect the line from the vac. tank to the fuel tank and see if you have a suction. If you do not then your problem is in the vac tank. If you have suction then your problem is with the gas tank or then line leading to the gas tank. If it used to work and all of a sudden it quite working you may have a broken spring in the vac. tank or your vent line has become clogged. Take the screws off the top of the tank and carefully remove the top. There are two counterbalance springs in the tank, make sure they are not broken and there is a vent in the tank top make sure it is open. Beyond a leaking float and a leak in the gasket I am not aware of anything else going wrong with vac. tanks. Jan

Tony: I had a tornado go through and destroy two of my barns which had cars and parts in them. The river rose and I lost most of my parts and I am trying to recover from it and dry everything out. Right now we are going through the mud and seeing what we can recover. Send me an email to Modelt1916@yahoo.com. Jan