jan arnett (2)

Go to the Durant website and look at the discusion going on there. There are some pictures there of a Model A brake switch and a Durant switch which should allow you some options. http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/durant/

As Dave says they started using them in 1924 and you can use a switch from a 1924 for your car and mount it on the transmission. I have found that Model A switchs and switchs from modern motor cycles are easier to find and can be cheaper to use. I have a model A on my 24 Star and a Honda Motor Cycle switch on my 23 dodge. Have a nice day Jan

They did not have a brake light. You can have a brake light by adding a late model brake switch and then either putting a resistor in the light to dim it or putting a twin filament bulb in and a second wire. I opted for the second option which involves swapping out the single point socket for a duel socket and running a second wire from the switch. The third way to to mount inertia brake lights from a motor cycle. I did this on my 1916 T which doesn't have a battery. Hope this helps. I can furnish a wiring diagram if you need. Jan

Are you using a drum puller?

I would not worry about it. You need brighter lights not dimmer lights. I just wire across the two contacts on all my cars. I even installed Halageon(sp) to make it brighter. Jan

I am restoring a 23 screen side truck as we speak and have before and after pictures. What information are you seeking. Jan Arnett

Sounds like you are getting air into the line between the vac tank and carb. Take the fittings off and use some teflon tape on the fitting, around the line where it goes into the tank and see if it helps. Jan

I made a cage out of pvc tubing that fits over the car and then I put the cover over it. It cost me about twenty bucks, two beers and an hour to make it. Make sure you put some mouse traps on the floor under it before you put the cover on. Jan

Get two old spark plugs. Break out the center and put eye bolts in them with the nut on the inside. Screw them into the spark plug hole and you will have something to lift with. Get some thin wall tubing with the inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the stud. File some teeth on them and chuck it in your drill. You can then use them to cut the rust and crap lose on the studs. I would never pry a head off as you will score the head and the block and as Jothan said you can break a stud. Lots of luck Jan

Arthur: Do you have kevlar or cotton bands and they are set differently. Jan

My father had a 1916 & 1922 Model T and I have a 1916 model T. My father also had a VW bug and my daughter has a bug with his engine in it. I removed his engine to keep him from driving at 91 and put it in my daughters car. Jan

Your drums should be the same.

Jesse: I have a 16 T and would be interested in you unit. You can send me photos at jan.arnett@keysol.com

Nishka: I have a Moon touring car which had a complete wood frame and a lot of it had been eaten by powder post beattles. I bought a lot of qwick poly and rescued 90% of the frame using it. Hope this helps. Jan

I have the rivet set and I just order some parts for my T last week from them. For some reason the Model A has a smaller head on the rivet. When DB1926 posted his comment i went to the barn and pulled a wheel to measure the head. If snyder will just sell the contersink then I can use my drill that is flattened on the end to open up the hole. Thanks for the information as I never read the full description in the catlog and it does not show a picture of what is included. I really appreciate everyones help. Jan

The type that you have to work about have lock rings which fit in the outer edge and that is why you inflat truck tires in a wire cage to protect yourself. My 23 Moon has lock rings on the disk wheels. Jan

Go for it. All he can do is say know but at least he will know he is interested. Speak to his wife who probably wants to get the junk out of her yard. A friend of mine tried to buy a car for years with no success. He gave it to his grandson who sold it to me the next day. I still have the car a 1916 Model T roadster.

Well here is where I stand so far. I looked at countersink cutters and they may work if I can find one. In the meantime I borrowed a spot weld remover and it is the wrong diameter and it tends to tear the liming. I tried a brad point bit and it is not flat on the bottom. I tried a spad bit with the same problem. Tonight I am going to try and grind the cornors off the spade bit and make it flat also try to grind a regular twist bit flat and use it. If that will make a flat bottom hole then it will be a two step process. Use the spade bit to make the initial hole and then the modified bit to remove material. I love the challenge. Jan

It set up so you could run a ice cream freezer or rear windshield wipers. Jan

I miss spoke. You are correct it would be nickle. The process is base metal, copper, nickle and then Chrome. I am not sure how Chrome would be porous since you have nickle, and copper underneath the Chrome. Jan

John: Do you trust the platter? If you do I would go with their recomendation. The rims should not be a problem but you nuts will be subject to more wear. Also what type of chrome plating are you getting and are they putting down a heavy coat of copper. Jan

for some reason you have to copy the link to your browser. I will check the diameter of the rivet and also a spot weld cutter. I never thought of that. I will also check my McMasters catalog. I know that they do not have a counter sink like I need. I will also check out dewalt. I had about a dozen in a can but they all floated away and some archeoligist will find them 100 years from now and wonder what they are. Have a nice weekend. Jan

Here is a link from Dyke's that shows the countersink. http://books.google.com/books?id=BtYbqYNbg0QC&printsec=frontcover&dq=dyke%27s&ei=Yz5mSYeKCo2YMtStvcYD#PPA690,M1 Thanks Jan

Thanks Jack: I have purchased rivets from them in the past but unfornately they do not carry a counter sink to be used on the brake lining. The countersink I need will cut a flat bottemed hole in the lining to allow the rivet to sit below the lining. Jan

I need to buy, beg, borrow or steal a countersink for my 1923 brake linings rivets. I lost all of mine when the flood came through. Thanks for your help. Jan