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jan arnett (2)

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Everything posted by jan arnett (2)

  1. Try this link for additional information. Morton & Brett, Elvin D. Morton, Jack Brett, Speedster, Model T, Morton and Brett - Coachbult.com This is only one of many.
  2. The hood former is from a 15/16 T and the tires look new. The radiator still has its shine in the first picture. I am going to bet that the photo was taken later then 1916 as they usually did not make a speedster out of a new car. That is a great picture and I hope when I get his age I am allowed to have a speedster like his. Wonder what happened to the car?
  3. One of the best purchase I ever made was a cheap small video camera. I put the camera on a tripod and any time I touch the car I video what I did. I can always go back and review the video if I am having trouble figure out what I did or if something popped off. It has saved my bacon many times when I had some thing come loose that later I could not figure how to put back. I also take hundreds of digital photos and then transfer them to disc with tags like transmission, engine, wire, ect.
  4. One other thing. Don't start the engine until you drop the pan and clean all the crud out. Then fill the pan with fresh oil and start the car. Run for five minutes and then drain the oil and put fresh in. Check the oil pump while you have the pan down. Check the wiring and make sure you do not have bare wires as they could start a fire.
  5. I have volunteered to help an elderly gentleman get his 1909 Maxwell running. We have found out that the time gear has a three inch section broken out and the center is split. Has anyone else had this problem. How can I remove the pieces which have fallen in the crankcase? Is there a paper gasket between the cam case and block or is it cork. Right now there is nothing and it is spewing oil all over the place. It appears that I have to remove the cam lobes and the timing gear from the shaft to replace the timing gear. They are pinned on and I would like suggestions on removing the pins. What is the level of oil required in the pan to start up the engine. By the way this is a 2 cyc. engine. This was taken apart but another gentleman who then handled it off to me. The individual has joined the HCCA and we are now trying to help him. I posted this in the Maxwell forum and received some excellent information but need more. Thanks for your help
  6. I have volunteered to help an elderly gentleman get his 1909 Maxwell running. We have found out that the time gear has a three inch section broken out and the center is split. Has anyone else had this problem. How can I remove the pieces which have fallen in the crankcase? Is there a paper gasket between the cam case and block or is it cork. Right now there is nothing and it is spewing oil all over the place. It appears that I have to remove the cam lobes and the timing gear. They are pinned on and I would like suggestions on removing the pins. What is the level of oil required in the pan to start up the engine. By the way this is a t 2 cyc. engine. Thanks for your help.
  7. I would approach it a little differently. I would replace the door rubber and trunk rubber first because water will damage the interior first. The interior is the most expensive to replace and I would preserve it with blankets until you get to it but make sure water does not get in. The second thing I would do before driving it is tear down the brake system and rebuild it. There is nothing worse then a broken brake hose or a failed brake cyc., rusted lines or master cyc. Take the radiator hoses lose and flush out the radiator. Check the wheel bearings your don't want a wheel to fail. Check your wiring because a short will burn that beautiful car and it can happen in your garage. If you have grease and oil on the engine clean it off so it does not start a fire. Check your tires to make sure they are safe. Check your exhaust system you do not want to die while driving her/him. I would not worry about the rust as the damage has already been done and minor driving is not going to make it worse. Rustoleum can be a bear to remove and I believe is based around fish oil but I could be wrong. I would next do the suspension and change the shocks so you have a comfortable ride. have nice day. Jan
  8. Stephen: Remember that a Model T was what the term "Shade Tree Mechanic" was created for. The Model T has a low compression and you can not really do anything wrong. I would only not use the original ones if one of these conditions have occured. 1. Bent Valve. 2. The valve stem is pitted 3. The bottom of the stem is mushroomed. 4. The valve stem is to short and you can not get the proper gap between the stem and the lifter. If you have adjustable lifters then this may not be an issue. If you have valve lapping tools and know how to use them then do not read any further. Looking at the number of cars you have then I am sure you can handle it just make sure that you use a valve lapping tool and not a suction cup. If you have not done it before remember that after you lap the valves you will have to grind the valve stems to get the proper clearance between the stem and lifter. I also use drill rod as a retainer pin. Have a nice day. Jan
  9. I have a 1923 Moon and this emblem does not fit anything up through 24 when it changed to a square emblem for the series A. Have a nice day Jan
  10. Dave: Maybe I can help on two of your cars. I am restoring a 23 Moon touring car and just finished the wood work. The original wood is ash and that is what I put in along with a lot of Kwik Polly. Regarding the Devaux which was built by Durant. There is an excellent car club for Durant products. I happen to be a technical editor and can highly recommend it. It does have a link on this forum. Do you have pictures of your cars. Have a nice day. Jan
  11. I have always been able to remove the bushing by taking two sockets and a long bolt. One socket is the same size as the bushing and the other is bigger then the bushing. Put the bolt through the two sockets with the bushing in the middle with the socket resting on the bushing. Just tighten the bolt and it will pull the bushing into the larger socket. Hope this helps. Jan
  12. Did you try the Hot Rod forum? Jan
  13. I have a set of metal ones hanging on the wall and I used to put rubber and metal ones on when I was a teenager. Jan
  14. The one question I always ask before I rebuild an engine is what type of life will it have for the next ten years. If you are going to really drive the car then you do not want to do it again. You will be driving it faster then it was designed for with modern rings with are made of harder material and designed to seal better. This means the cyc will wear faster. I would bite the bullet and completely rebuild it. That taper will only get worse not better. Make sure you flush everything real good to make sure there are no metal shavings left. A good engine is hard to nfind. Have a nice day Jan
  15. Thanks for sharing and taking us for a ride. Jan
  16. I have found that brake fluid is better for freeing up engines. Marvel oil is used for misting and lubricating when you put the car away. Jan
  17. If you will send me a email I will send you pictures of linkage and I may have some extra pieces. Jan Jan.arnett(**** remove this)@keysol.com
  18. "What linkage are you inquiring about.
  19. I was born on VJ day aug 15, 1945 and my father had to stand on the front bumper to get through the traffic. The car was a 1939 Dodge. I used to own a three door borgward station wagon and I ended up putting the engine in a boat. Have a Happy Easter, Jan
  20. I don't know about the sedans and tourings but my 23 screenside has wooden running boards. Jan
  21. I think a large part of your cost is in leather seats. Most shops do not do leather and it can be very expensive. Lots of luck Jan
  22. Your nuts are incorrect. I can see the comments on this statement. Jan
  23. The front has the single retainer and the rear has the double retainer. Jan
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