jan arnett (2)

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Everything posted by jan arnett (2)

  1. I thought you might be interested in this link on how to read plugs. Spark plug reading
  2. I use dry lubricates on my bikes but would not use it on my cars. They serve very different functions. The bike chain is constant rotating and tends to sling the dust away. You also have closer tolerance then a brake clevis. I also doubt if my bike chain will wear out. In a car you have a different situation where mud, sand and dust will be picked up but unless you do a lot of cleaning under the car every time you will not be cleaning it. As I said earlier I check my connections once a year after I put it in the garage. I want something that will block the water and suspend the dirt in a joint. The joint has a large tolerance not a tight tolerance. Where it goes thru the backing place it has a closer tolerance. If you are concerned about geting dirt in a joint you can put a boot on it. I used to put gaiters on my model t racing cars and then I put grease and graphite between the leafs. I am currently making up a boot for my 1923 Dodge drive shaft but this is to keep grit out of the drive shaft. You have a very rare car an I applaude your effort and concern to keep it original but their are a million Model T's on the road and I think most drivers just use a little bearing grease. Have fun with it and I would like to see more pictures
  3. I have only seen engine fires started one of two ways. A back fire through the carburetor or fuel leaking onto a manifold or exhaust pipe. Normally a backfire is because of timing problems or crossed wires. It can also be the result of carbon in the distributor cap. If I were trying to find the problem here are the steps I would take. 1. Change the oil. You will be able to smell raw gas in the oil if it is loaded up. 2. Disconnect the fuel line from the vacuum tank to the gas tank. This will allow the car to run on a full vac tank to check it out. 3. Check the plugs to see if they are running rich. If they are carboned up then clean them as you probably are floating the carb needle valve. 4. Fill the vac tank and start the engine and see if you have the same problem. 5. If you do then your problem is probably not linked to the fuel pump. You did not say if the fuel line from fuel pump is going into the vac. tank or directly into the carb.:eek:
  4. I put a touch of lubriplate on all wear points every winter. It gives you an excuse to examine each point to make sure you have no potential failures waiting for you. I use chassis grease in the grease cups and alemite fittings.
  5. As Terry says you have an accessory oil line that was installed to lubricate the front main. You will have to take it off and clean it and then put it back together. Make sure the tubing is not split at the flare. The post is the magneto post and should also be cleaned. As was said earlier there is no oil pump on a model t. Model T leak oil to mark their spot to make sure cheys. do not try and park in their spots. You will also find that they leak from each bolt in the pan. If this happens remove the bolt and wrap dental floss around the threads and put it back together. You check the oil level by opening the top petcock on the pan and seeing if any oil leaks out. If it does it is too high. Open the bottom petcock and see if oil comes out. The oil should be between the two petcocks. Put in straight 30 wgt. non detergent oil. The next thing you will probably want to do is adjust the bands but you will probably need help for that or the owners manual. If you are going to drive it far you should also lubricate it. Enjoy the car they are a lot of fun.
  6. I believe the term is rat rod as in down a rat hole.
  7. I also run modern points and I can't tell you what it fits. I just went through the parts drawer and matched up what I needed. I did the same thing on my Moon so if you have a garage that has been in the business stop by and see what they have in their parts drawer. If you find one that fits they probably will give them to you. Have a nice day.
  8. Bob: Glad you found the door but it is interesting that you had to buy the who truck. I need screens and the eyebolts that hold the tailgate on if you have spares. Have a nice day.
  9. It also fits the earlier cars but they have an alimite fitting and not a grease cup. This is a 1923 engine.
  10. Try this link for additional information. Morton & Brett, Elvin D. Morton, Jack Brett, Speedster, Model T, Morton and Brett - Coachbult.com This is only one of many.
  11. The hood former is from a 15/16 T and the tires look new. The radiator still has its shine in the first picture. I am going to bet that the photo was taken later then 1916 as they usually did not make a speedster out of a new car. That is a great picture and I hope when I get his age I am allowed to have a speedster like his. Wonder what happened to the car?
  12. One of the best purchase I ever made was a cheap small video camera. I put the camera on a tripod and any time I touch the car I video what I did. I can always go back and review the video if I am having trouble figure out what I did or if something popped off. It has saved my bacon many times when I had some thing come loose that later I could not figure how to put back. I also take hundreds of digital photos and then transfer them to disc with tags like transmission, engine, wire, ect.
  13. One other thing. Don't start the engine until you drop the pan and clean all the crud out. Then fill the pan with fresh oil and start the car. Run for five minutes and then drain the oil and put fresh in. Check the oil pump while you have the pan down. Check the wiring and make sure you do not have bare wires as they could start a fire.
  14. I have volunteered to help an elderly gentleman get his 1909 Maxwell running. We have found out that the time gear has a three inch section broken out and the center is split. Has anyone else had this problem. How can I remove the pieces which have fallen in the crankcase? Is there a paper gasket between the cam case and block or is it cork. Right now there is nothing and it is spewing oil all over the place. It appears that I have to remove the cam lobes and the timing gear from the shaft to replace the timing gear. They are pinned on and I would like suggestions on removing the pins. What is the level of oil required in the pan to start up the engine. By the way this is a 2 cyc. engine. This was taken apart but another gentleman who then handled it off to me. The individual has joined the HCCA and we are now trying to help him. I posted this in the Maxwell forum and received some excellent information but need more. Thanks for your help
  15. I have volunteered to help an elderly gentleman get his 1909 Maxwell running. We have found out that the time gear has a three inch section broken out and the center is split. Has anyone else had this problem. How can I remove the pieces which have fallen in the crankcase? Is there a paper gasket between the cam case and block or is it cork. Right now there is nothing and it is spewing oil all over the place. It appears that I have to remove the cam lobes and the timing gear. They are pinned on and I would like suggestions on removing the pins. What is the level of oil required in the pan to start up the engine. By the way this is a t 2 cyc. engine. Thanks for your help.
  16. I would approach it a little differently. I would replace the door rubber and trunk rubber first because water will damage the interior first. The interior is the most expensive to replace and I would preserve it with blankets until you get to it but make sure water does not get in. The second thing I would do before driving it is tear down the brake system and rebuild it. There is nothing worse then a broken brake hose or a failed brake cyc., rusted lines or master cyc. Take the radiator hoses lose and flush out the radiator. Check the wheel bearings your don't want a wheel to fail. Check your wiring because a short will burn that beautiful car and it can happen in your garage. If you have grease and oil on the engine clean it off so it does not start a fire. Check your tires to make sure they are safe. Check your exhaust system you do not want to die while driving her/him. I would not worry about the rust as the damage has already been done and minor driving is not going to make it worse. Rustoleum can be a bear to remove and I believe is based around fish oil but I could be wrong. I would next do the suspension and change the shocks so you have a comfortable ride. have nice day. Jan
  17. Stephen: Remember that a Model T was what the term "Shade Tree Mechanic" was created for. The Model T has a low compression and you can not really do anything wrong. I would only not use the original ones if one of these conditions have occured. 1. Bent Valve. 2. The valve stem is pitted 3. The bottom of the stem is mushroomed. 4. The valve stem is to short and you can not get the proper gap between the stem and the lifter. If you have adjustable lifters then this may not be an issue. If you have valve lapping tools and know how to use them then do not read any further. Looking at the number of cars you have then I am sure you can handle it just make sure that you use a valve lapping tool and not a suction cup. If you have not done it before remember that after you lap the valves you will have to grind the valve stems to get the proper clearance between the stem and lifter. I also use drill rod as a retainer pin. Have a nice day. Jan
  18. I have a 1923 Moon and this emblem does not fit anything up through 24 when it changed to a square emblem for the series A. Have a nice day Jan
  19. Dave: Maybe I can help on two of your cars. I am restoring a 23 Moon touring car and just finished the wood work. The original wood is ash and that is what I put in along with a lot of Kwik Polly. Regarding the Devaux which was built by Durant. There is an excellent car club for Durant products. I happen to be a technical editor and can highly recommend it. It does have a link on this forum. Do you have pictures of your cars. Have a nice day. Jan
  20. I have always been able to remove the bushing by taking two sockets and a long bolt. One socket is the same size as the bushing and the other is bigger then the bushing. Put the bolt through the two sockets with the bushing in the middle with the socket resting on the bushing. Just tighten the bolt and it will pull the bushing into the larger socket. Hope this helps. Jan
  21. Did you try the Hot Rod forum? Jan
  22. I have a set of metal ones hanging on the wall and I used to put rubber and metal ones on when I was a teenager. Jan