72caddy

I didn't think of that! That is a ton easier.

So my 'fronts' are really 'rears'?

Thanks! It is tilt/tele but I will read and see what I am up against.

All, I have a 1972 Eldo conv. that I need to get a spare key made (only have one key). Problem is that the oringal key is paper thin and is so worn it is impossible to get a key duplicated from this original. I have been told that it take s apsecial key to remove the cylinder from the column (to see the code to cut a key). Is this the only way to remove the cylinder? Car can't be driven to teh locksmith either... Any advice is appreciated...

I should have mentioned that these can off the front of my car...Ihave not checked the rear springs...

This is what I found on my 1919. They were bolted to the shackle but not as described above. So any help from the others on this forum as to how this is supposed to be mounted would be most appreciated

Like the sign! I need to make one of those. Could some of you educate me, please? I can't help but notice that very early cars had small wheels, but my 1919 Dodge has 35" wheels. I realize the roads in the teens were no where near what they are now and that makes sense to me (larger size than today). But why would early cars have such small wheels? The roads had to be even worse. Was it a manufacturing limitation of the time? Europe influenced? Obviously, I am missing something....

Phantom image. Here is the correct image:

Looking for $15 and actual shipping costs. Got this with a 'lot' of DB parts and have no need.

This is the housing plus reverse lense (looks like a small glass). Housing has some serious cracks but is all there. I got this in a 'lot' of stuff I needed for my DB. Just looking for a few $ for the parts and the cost of shipping. Don't get to this forum much, so if interested just PM me. I can send photos.

I can lift the tranny with some effort with something providing a good grip....that would probably be about the same as my youngest child, 100 Lbs. So a block by itself aroudn 775 - that sounds about right. I have two on dollys and they wer not even easy to push around.

Is that a 75 or 76 Eldorado in the garage?

Late to the topic, but my .02 I travel the coutry for work and usually stay at Hamptons, Hamptom Inns, Holiday Inn, Holiday Inn Express, Marriotts, and occasionally a Hilton. Our travel department work deligently to get the best rates - we are also a gov contractor. So we get a good rate but usually get the handicap rooms by the elevator (noisey). These usually have a breakfest, good parking lot lighting, sometimes security. If you can get a room rate below $100 a night in a big city you are doing good. In smaller towns the price can vary greatly (70's to 90's). Sorry, can't help on the other costs. I have never been on a tour - heck I can't even make the week club meetings!

That is very slow. Mine is about 60 rpm. it seems slow and takes about 4 or 5 rotations to fire and catch. To me this seems slow as well. Is it?

Being new to DBs and just finishingup the Dodge Brothers book, it is probably a case of neither would have become near as successful without each other. Only a few ever knew exactly how condusive this relationship was to their growing business. I stopped getting Hemmings years ago; I am sad to admit. When I got into the hobby (early 90's)it was THE place to find parts and suppliers, but with the internet, strong forums like this one, I find that I can educate myself and work with specialyty vendors like Romar,Myers,etc much easier that trying to explain to a generalist what I am looking for. Photo ads are the norm on the web and a picture is worth a thousand words, so I fear they will have a tough future.

I have a blue Eldo convertible like yours in the background. does it have a blue interior? mine does but i have not seen many with the blue/blue option. Mine is triple blue (blue top) as this was an option (color matched top) in the day.

Just something else to double-check...does each spark plug wire go to the correct spark plug? If the wires are out of sequence the spark is missing the compression stroke or intake of gas.

Maybe this mysterious 'date' code is really a combination of the date (28 seems to be consistent with the year of the cars noted above) and the first three digits the casting station? It could also be a 'batch' number if they made a whole bunch at one time, then stopped until the warehouse was at a certain level before they made the subsequent batch (and change the number accordingly).

If the head number is 2221591 That # is the same as the plate - prototype indicator?.

My past software experience with Mechanical Engineers leads me to wonder about two things you might consider in this number chase: 1. As different casting stations/locations were making this part they may have wanted to track which station/location the part came from for quality control. If they found a error was being made they could easily track all the others made at that same station and systematically find the other 'bad' parts. 2. Most mass produced parts of assemblies go through changes. This requires a 'version' or 'revision' number on the part. These numbes are always noted on the engineering drawings of the part. The part number may not change as that is just an assembly part number. But they would want to know which part version were the 'newer' design verses older design in case the designs changed so much that you could not replace a version 2 head with a version 7 head (because te block was also revised at version 7 to accomidate the version 7 head). So the dealer would have to find an 'older' head that matched that particular block. In essence, you will need the engineering drawings of the parts to piece all this together. You also may need a dealer repair book that has the 'compatibility' chart for what versions of parts can be interchanged and what can't - a Hollander of the day. Hope this helps. Just thinking out loud.

What are the 3 other cars?

Thanks for the links and additional info. I am looking at the Model A switch and will probably go that route. I currently use bicycle 'flasher' rear lights that all you have to do is push the button for it to come on and go off. They are LED, variable flash modes, and really get your attention. They are also removeable (clip-on) so easy pocketed.

Thanks to all. I really appreciate the support of the forum members. It really helps.

So I need to ask some questions about my 1919 Touring that I can't seem to find in my manuals. 1. Did these cars have 'brake' lights or is the tail light just a 'running' light? 2. Located and purchased and robe rail for my car but I'm having trouble finding the right size fasteners. I have tried 10-24, 10-32, 1/4(to big) and then went metric (6mm) and the diameter seems correct but the thread spacing seems to be the issue. Any advice is appreciated.

Harry, I suggest creating another topic on this board. A couple of the forum people are really knowledgable about how much line pressure the old carbs can work with and how much will cause more problems than solve. Profryfytr, Glad this issue is solved. Sorry you plan on selling it but understand completely...family always comes first. There will be other cars.