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Profyrfyter

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About Profyrfyter

  • Birthday 09/18/1976

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  1. Well, we sold our 1926 DB Sedan this morning so we can pay the last of our bills off and start house shopping and I just wanted to say thanks to all of you who have taken the time to answer all of my many questions! Thanks and good bye to all! Dave
  2. Update on the price, I asked around a little and found out that I'm asking a little to much being the way the economy is right now. So with that said, my asking price is $5,500 Oh yeah, even though I'm selling the car I have ordered a fuel tank sealer kit from POR-15 for it. Thanks for looking! Dave
  3. Cool, Thanks for the responses! I'll definately take that into consideration I was just going off of what my uncle was asking before I got it, and that was before the economy took a dump. I'm not opposed to taking less for it by any means. With that said does anyone want a 1926 DB Sedan? haha Thanks! Dave
  4. Hello all! I'm resorting to selling my '26 DB Sedan and I'm looking for some input on its value. I know this isn't the for sale thread (I have it listed there already) but I just want to make sure I'm on target with the asking price. I'm taking it to the Big Boy Toys swap meet in Selma, CA on March 7th and I would like to get in the neighborhood of $7,000-7,500. But that's why I'm posting this, to see if you guys who know more about these than I do would think that's a fair asking price. The car is 98% complete and runs and despite selling it I have ordered a gas tank sealer kit from POR-15 so the new owner won't have to mess with it. It has 75,758 original miles on it. Any input would be appreciated! Thanks for all the questions you guys have answered over my short time on the site! Dave
  5. Thanks for the words of encouragement Caddy! Yeah, it's definately not my first choice, but with the way the market is right now we'd be foolish not to take advantage of it. I really wanted to get the vacuum issue fixed before it sells so all someone will have to do is seal the tank and off they go! Thanks again! Dave
  6. Mine is top draw as well. I just pulled all the lines off and cleaned them out with brake cleaner. I also pulled all the fittings off the top of the tank lid and cleaned them out and I was able to wash some brown sediment out of the vacuum port. I put it all back together making sure everything was nice and tight and it seemed to work just fine. I'm still using a 1 gallon jug of gas since the fuel tank still needs to be sealed and I had drawn a line on the outside of it where the fuel level was in the beginning and it dropped approximately 1/2 inch when I finally shut it off so it appears as if the vacuum is working now. It also ran much longer than it had been when it simply consumed the fuel in the canister. So with that said thank you both for your help! Dave
  7. I will tear it down again to make sure everything is free and clear as well as tight. I can hear the float rise and fall with fuel but I'll make sure nothing appears to be binding. The springs were purchased from Myers and are supposed to be the correct ones, but I still have the originals so maybe I'll throw those back in there just to see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the tips, I'll post back when I finish! Dave
  8. I'm still having trouble with me 26' DB sedans vacuum canister. I have a new gasket lid gasket, float springs and I've cleaned it all out and now it won't draw fuel into it. I remove the fuel inlet elbow and fill it with gas until the point where I can hear the float click into the up position then I run the car and it will run fine until all the fuel insinde the canister runs out. Before I put the new springs in it would draw fuel in with no problem. Please help! Thanks Dave
  9. Well I need to make a sacrafice so my wife and I can start house shopping so I'm selling my 1926 Dodge Brothers Sedan. It is a 4 cylinder, 4 door closed car. I am the 3rd owner of this piece of history and it's been garage housed for the at least the past 30 years. I received the car in non-running condition and have since got it running. Now it fires right up! Take your pick, crank the engine by hand or simply step on the starter button, either way you'll hear the engine start humming. Everything on this car works, from the classic sounding horn to all the lights. Other than some door handles and a missing dome light this car is complete and in sound condition. Being that the car is 82 years old, it does have some dings here and there and the front passenger door is in need of repair at the two upper hinges as there are cracks at both of them. All window glass in present however the right rear most window is broken (notice the blue tape in the pictures). I have done a little work to the car since I've had it, as I said I've gotten it running, reparied the gas tank (still needs to be sealed) it's not the nicest looking repair but due to the size of the rotted out section it's the best we could do and it doesn't leak now but when it's installed in the vehicle the repair isn't visible, changed the oil, tuned the engine up with new plugs/wires and adjusted the tappets, tore the water pump down and replaced a stripped packing nut and repacked it, rebuilt the carburetor with a new gasket kit, new radiator hoses, had new tubes put in all four tires and installed a new muffler. Included with the car that isn't shown in the pictures below are: <span style="font-weight: bold">3 ignition keys (including the original), 2 door lock keys and a skeleton key for the spare tire lock.</span> <span style="font-weight: bold">An additional spare tire on solid dish rim (tire needs to be replaced) New carpet and vinyl (I'm not sure if it's enough to complete the car but it was present when I got it) New wiper blade New gas guage float Mechanics instruction manual Misc. little items from the period </span> I'm asking $8,500.000 obo and of course if you have any questions or would like to see the car in person please feel free to email me at profyrfyter@yahoo.com or call my cell phone 559-410-0075 The vehicle is located in Hanford, CA 93230 Bear with me, there are a lot of photos! I have many more pictures of the interior and each door as well but I can't post them all on here so if you would like to see them please contact me and I'll email them to you. Thanks for looking! Dave Look at the guages, the vechicle is actually running when this was taken, everything works! Solid oil pressure and the ammeter is reading right where it needs to
  10. First of all thank you Chocolate for taking the time out to answer my questions. I have been a bad DB owner and I'm not a member of DBC club yet. I know I know, I really need to. I was messing with the car this afternoon and I couldn't figure out why the car would fire then die after a second or two. No matter how much throttle I gave it, it would die. I pulled the float chamber top off and found that the chamber was dry! so I filled the chamber with gas and then fired it up. Then it died again. Oops, I left the petcock off at the bottom of the vacuum tank. I opened the petcock up and then started it up again and ran just fine until it the float chamber ran dry again. I don't think the fuel is getting transferred from the vacuum tank to the float chamber. I just replaced the vacuum tank springs and cleaned the inside of it out also. Any ideas? Thanks! Dave
  11. I need a couple of parts for my 1926 DB sedan if anyone can help or point me in the right direction I would appreciate it! I need the front passenger door (mine is torn at the two upper hinges from being forced open to far) and I also need a dome light assembly as mine is missing. The one that appears to go in there is rectangular in shape and I have a toggle switch in the rear door pillar for it (I only need the light assembly) Thank you, Dave
  12. Some of the stuff you are looking for can be found at Myers Early Dodge, they are a great resource and a pleasure to deal with. Here's a link for you! http://www.myersearlydodge.com/ Dave
  13. I understand! haha I'll just fool around with it, I'm almost positive that it's the bell crank screw the book is talking about since it refers to turning the screw "up". I think the reason I wasn't getting any change in the popping is because I still had the cable hooked up to it so it wasn't allowing it to close any further. The exhaust leak is definately a possibility too, I knew I should have ordered the gaskets with my last Myers order! It just wasn't backfiring before I worked on the carb, but then again I wasn't ramping it like this either. Thanks for all the advice! Dave
  14. I only see the bell crank stop screw and idle screw (for engine idle speed). So I'm assuming the bell crank screw is the one I need to be turning? That seems to be the most logical since it says to turn the screw "up" until the engine begins to pop. Now what about the revving, do I just hit it and release or do I maintain the engine at wide open? It's backfireing when I release the throttle after a sharp ramp up like that. Thanks, Dave
  15. Ok, well here's the deal, I already put the carb back together with a little sealant before I read this. I did use it very sparingly and tried to keep it away from the actual openings so hopefully it will be ok. I've got it all back together and I fired it up. It seemed to run good, but I'm trying to make sure it is adjusted properly. It's not smoking like it did before but I want to make sure I've got it dialed in. I'm looking in the mechanics manual and it says to put the spark lever half way down and rev the engine quickly. (do I leave it at a fast idle or immediately return the throttle to the closed position? Then it tells me to turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise (up) until I hear a popping sound and then clockwise until that is overcome. What are they talking about when they say adjusting screw? The bell crank stop screw? Because the only other screw I see is the idle screw. Thanks! Dave
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