72caddy

I may have one. It is probably pitted a little (not perfect). If you want perfect I think there are reporductions available....

The oil can was for a few oil points under the hood. The distributor has a small opening that you are supposed to oil every so often. I know there are others, just havn't worked on my 19 in a while. My 19 has grease CAPS (not fittings) that you were suppose to give 'half a turn' every 50 to 100 miles! Your cap to the right of the starter button is the grease cap to te main throw out bearing in the transmission. Make sure you have good grease and that it can get down in there.

We don't sell 'Lemons' only 'Watermelons'.

The chrome on my rear bumper on my Eldo is starting to look 'thin'. It also has a couple of dimples where someone pushed the car with another car or truck. These dimples are not deep but are the size of a quarter/half dollar. My question is, what am I looking at to have the center section of the bumper filled and refinished? I have never had anything rechromed, have no shops that do the work directly in town and just looking for a ballpark estimate. I do realize there are various levels of chrome quality - I am looking for 'driver' quality. Thanks in advance Richard

DBers, On a short lunch break and thought I would toss this out there.... I have been thinking about getting some bumpers for my Touring - to both help protect her as well as 'tart' her up a bit. I have seen all the ads for after-market bumpers of the era but have had no luck in finding a set on the auction sites. Does anyone have some recommendations on where to look and the price range I would be looking at? Are the specialist DB part suppliers the best starting place? or does someone make reproductions? Thanks in advance for any direction you can provide me.... Richard

I am still under the 'buy and hold' strategy...gets cramped

Not usre if one of these is what you are looking for. I got all three with my touring. Obviously I need to keep one. I guess the 'patina-ed' one and the slightly bent one can go to a new home. Contact me with an offer if you are interested. These are heavy. I am in Northern Alabama if you want to do a cost + shipping analysis first. Richard ltpopeATknology.net (substitiute the @ symbol for AT)

I must be missing a sensitivity gene or something, as I do not see how that is offensive.

Just an update if anyone was curious. Here is the 'template' that was made from 'duck cloth'. Just came out of the dryer and it shrank just enough to really fit snug. I may just go with this as I like the look. Many thanks for the 'panel' idea. I will get the club name stitched on later.

I like the sledge hammer in the upper right of the photo - frame must be bent....

Yes, it is 34" diameter. I have 33 X 4.5" tires. that was just a screen shot of the drawing. I am adding more detail (seams and extra material lines for fabrication) to these drawings. Be happy to send on the PDF files if you want to see it full scale. Richard

I like the 'flat' area to make room for logos /club names. I think I will change the front panel to be like this one. Thanks.

So I took some measurements for a tire cover and then did a detail drawing. I am soliciting comments on design or ideas on how to improve this. I will make a 'sample' out of cheap fabric before I go to a shop to have this professionally made. Be happy to share the PDF with anyone who wants it - but I think you may might want to wait until I complete my sample and 'tweak' the design. Any initial comments? I am mainly concerned with the slots on the backside to allow the cover to be slipped on and the general width - I don't want it to tight. but it does need to be snug.... I am also doing a drawing of the top cover (when irons folded up) and the front header bow.

Thanks Dave, I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions. Yes, a 1919 by engine serial number. Horn Ring: I think the horn ring just was put there by a previous owner (there was no horn or button) when I purchased the car. Tire Cover: I was just thinking of taking some measuresurements and having one made - then stitched with 'Dodge Brothers Club' or something like that. Just trying to sort it out as close to 1919 as I can. My other 'antique' car is a 72 Eldo convertible - hence my screen name. I did not have the DB when I joined AACA. I also have a couple of 'other' cars that are in a complete different category (Z3 & Nissan) Richard

OK. Would'nt a 1919 Touring have a horn button on the door? (my door has the mouting holes for the button)

Just some general questions about my touring that maybe someone can help me. First, what is this between my throttle/sparks controls and the steering wheel? It is loose and the only details you can see in the photo. Secondly, Do I have the correct hood sides? See the gap between the bottom of the side and the fender? Cowl is to the right. Lastly, where would I find a resource for a spare tire cover for these tall skinny tires. Anyone repro them or do I need to get some made? Anyone have one for sale? Thanks in advance for any help guidence, Richard

Just to polish this off. Below are the order numbers for DB roadsters and open cars as well

Should mention that only battery commandors were allowed this vehicle....PERK?

Interesting enough in the whole 'Handbook...' mentioned above that covers 'motor and traction equipment' (pg 357-383) ONLY the 'staff obs. car' mentions the tire size (36" X 6") and that a spare is INCLUDED. All other vehicles omit any mention of tire size or a spare.

There is also a photo of the 'staff observation car' which was based on a White chasis - it is also missing the spare tire but has the split rim mounted on the drivers side (blocking the door BTW). This is definitely a used vehicle as it is dirty and in a field setting. The 'reconnaissance and machine gun car' also a 1 ton White chasis has a spare on its rim - also in a field setting. I'll check to see if spare tires were a separate contract.

OK. tried to get photos but can't find the cable to connect it to my computer. I don't think you really need a photo. On my car these are 1/2" 'rivets - round heads on both sides - like the ones that hold the out-riggers that support the splash pan. If you open one of the front doors you will see a rivet near the rear of the door that holds the pan to the frame - but the body has an opening in the metal for clearance as this rivet does not hold the body on top of the frame or pan at this location. I double checked and there are three layers of metal. The bottom is the frame, second is the pan lip on top of the frame held on by the rivet and the third is the metal body work. I'll find my cable and post, but every fastener I can find for the splash aprons is the same round 1/2 rivet. Richard

Again the production figures from the 'Handbook of Ordnance Data'

Here are the details of the 'light repair truck' from the 'Handbook of Ordnance Data, Nov. 15, 1918'. Note the headlights and the missing spot light that was on the previous version. Also note the caption were this was superceded. I like the detail of what EXACTLY the truck contained. This book goes through every type of vehicle ordered.

Here are the production figures and whether they were shipped overseas or not....

Not sure if this is old news or not, but thought I would share. In an attempt to help a fellow AACA member trying to locate a person who displayed their FWD Model B at a local show, it started 'research' by my father a VERY BIG WW1 buff. My father decided to go through his materials and find me some information on DBs in WW1 (I have a 1919 Touring). I thought these images and data were very interesting. First images are from 'Americas Munitions 1917-1918 Report of Benedict Crowell The Assistant Sec. of War - Director of Munitions' in 1919. This is a 600 pg. book. Here a DB light truck photo and a couple of interesting photos of how they stored the vehicles: