72caddy

Richard, There have been many topics on this and the advice varies by the 'era' of the car and the level of technology advancement. Not sure where a 25 falls, but in my 1919 I use 600wt -available from Restoration Supply or Model A dealers - for the tranny and the rear end. For my car the instructions were to fill the tranny just above one of the gears. For the rear end it is easy enough as there is both a drain and fill plug with the fill plug about 70 up the 'pimpkin'. You may want to do a forum search and see if the weights I mention are applicable to a 25. By 1925 they may have been able to use some lighter weight oil. Richard

Well that would make sense, as I usually turn to the forum when I get stumped, need or want a second opinion about a fix or proper approach to an issue. If I did not have any work to be done on my car I would not spend as much time on the forums. This is true for my other cars that are on the back-burner. When I get to a point that I can turn my attention to them, I will be less active on this board.

I get some electrical cleaner and clean it up. Thanks again.

Thanks for the advice. I took the sleeve off of the rear of the starter genernator and was checking the brushes when it finally dawned on me what I was viewing. The commutator was fouled with what looked like a combination of carbon and grease. A little starter fluid on a rag and slowly turning the engine by the crank allowed me to clean it up enough to start the car. There is still some 'residue' on the commutator. What would you recommend o get rid of the hard to remove stuff?

I am also a little surprised by the lack of feedback on this topic. I always thought I was one of the few that just worked an drove my cars as a personal endevour. I always though I was in the minority and hoped this would either confirm this or open my eyes to how others use their cars.

Don't tour or show my 1919 Dodge or 1972 Cad Eldo Conv. Neither is show quality in my opinion and I would feel somewhat embarrassed to have either judged even though I try to keep them as original as possible. I use to like working on them but that is loosing its luster lately. I mainly just take the wife an kids out for spins in the neighborhood and around a historic part of town nearby with the Dodge. The caddy can go anywhere, but the family just doesn't enjoy it as much. When we host family events one usually just pulled out for short runs. My 84 yr old father really enjoys the Dodge so I take him when-ever I can get it working properly. I travel a good deal world-wide and work is an around the clock job these days so time to fix an enjoy is very limited.

Went to start the 1919 tourer and the starter was a little slow to turn (as usual) but eventually got the motor spinning. It caught and ran briefly after priming. When I went to re-start ---nothing---not even a hint of a revolution from the starter. Motor turns fine by the crank. I jumped the starter switch battery post to generator post and still nothing. Pulled out the battery charger and went directly to the posts on the rear of generator and still nothing. Fuse on the starter/generator is OK. Not even a hum or anything from the unit. Before I pull the starter/generator out of the car is there any other tests I should do? If this is just the brushes or carbon build-up can these repairs be done with the unit in the car? I am sure someone has had this happen before and looking for some advice. Richard

Just a follow-up. Sent my wheel to Stutzman and just go the wheel back. About two weeks from sent to received. The workmanship and quality is hard to believe. The wood is so smooth, perfect seams, and the hub fits so percisely I am impressed. Many thanks for the recommendation.

As promised. Hopefully this will help others. DB Hub Removal Full Floating Axle.pdf

We have a winner. Yep, when I removed the drum it was obvious that some holes were oval at best, some were misdrilled and I am not sure ever properly aligned to the fellow. Scary.

See if you can guess why the spokes failed. Needless to say the other wheel is coming off for inspection.

Thanks Steve, I knew I was missing something - removal of the bolts to expose the locking nut. I read everything I could find last night and these steps were missing. I think I will document thoroughly and post here so all will have this if they are every unfortunate to have the same issue.

Many of you know I lost some wooden wheel spokes the other day and I asked for shop recommendations, which there were several. Thank you. Now I need a hub puller to remove the fellow and hub from the full floating axle. My car is a 1919 +/-. Hub thread diameter and TPI is 2.5" - 18 if I am seeing good. Does this sound correct? If anyone could loan me a puller I would appreciate it. Otherwise I will just wait for one to turn up on fleabay. If these are so hard to pull off, how hard are they to get properly seated back on the axle? Richard

Yes, I think this car is very much a 'bitsa'. Right now I need to get a hub puller to get the wheel off. This is a full floating axle with no nut/cotter pin. Anyone have one they would loan/sell? By loan I would send you money to hold while I used it. I also noticed the holes in the drum and saw no bolts. I can certainly add these if that is how it is supposed to be. Mr. Lawson, how can you tell a front spoke from a rear spoke? Diameter?

Sorry...meant to state 23" fellows and 25" split rim. Don;t know what I was thinking

1919 Touring. 35" wheels...

Finally got the Dodge out after a couple of years of being a 'hanger queen'. Drove it around quite a bit and then coming up the driveway I either popped the clutch or it slipped and grabbed. I hear a weird 'pop' an you can see the results in the photo. Where should I send this for repair? I'll do a search to see how to get the wheel off. I know I have seen previous posts on this over the years, Have a good holiday and I appreciate any recommendations. I am in the deep south but willing to send the wheel to a proper place. Richard

The seller on 'Pawn Stars' was wearing a BJ jacket BTW

I may be interested in the bumper brackets as I am trying to retro fit a bumper to my 1919. Could someone advise on how these mounted?

I have two 'Books of Information' (1917/1919) and both have illustrations of the door horn button just being directly mounted on the top center of the drivers door. No flap, but that may have been omitted for clarity. Wiring was just straight from under the dash to the button with some slack for when the door is open. Doors don't swin that open because of the side curtain snaps. Yours sounds very interesting and ahead of the time, so to speak.

Door handle and front bumper remind me of my first car - 73 Chevy impala

1930, I also appreciate you taking the time to scan and post this information. I am fairly isolated from others that have my year car and balancing family, work and hobby (that order) provides little time for finding this kind of info. Richard

The wiper was probably manual - meaning you grabbed the end and made it go back and forth...most likely complete as it sits.