72caddy

Thanks, I did not know that. Learn something new everyday.

I have bought a couple of small DB items from Bob recently, sight unseen, and have always found his decriptions of condition to be conservative. His 'good' has been a VG in my book. He also replies via email in good time. If someone is serious I think you will find dealing with Bob a good experience.

I like the sun-visor. I haven't seen many cars with that.

I been looking for a DB95 for 6 months. They never seem to come up. I did buy some CLUM blanks that I could have cut and I think I saw some the other day on the auction site (blanks that is)

True that most people that post are only creating an account to post the 'for sale' ad. So why don't we suggest that the Buy/Sell forum have mandatory fields (like when you join). AACA members should be able to by-pass this form (a privilege IMO) but visitors would have to fill it out? What do you think?

I'll try again to post the photo

During a rainy day at the beach (shool break vacation) I took the family over to the Air Base in Pensacola. Other than the amazing display of aircraft I found this Dodge Screenside in the center of some WW1 aircraft. It was missing the spark and throttle controls on the steering shaft but otherwise was in great shape. Even had the tools and perfect wheel caps.

I too appreciate the photos as I am trying to sort a 1919 Touring. I have similar type fasterners along the sides and two up front but the top itself is tacked in. So my questions are if that is correct for my year. I also noticed your touring (Big Mark) that you have top saddles. I have been told by several that in 1919 saddles were not available. Did you add yours? I would like to add some to mine, but don't know where to start. Thanks in advance for any light you can shed on these topics.

Nice Photos. Thanks for posting...

Yea, I kinda thought they looked different but the radiator and the body sure does look DB. I was sure if the fenders were different early on...

Looks like a very early Dodge Brothers, around 1916-17 or possibly late 1918, 1919, or 20 -- they had bloack trim around the headlights during the war.

Hit 'Reply' (not 'Quick Reply'), then use the File Manager link. Select 'Browse' to locate the image on your computer. Once highlighted select 'add file'. When done select the 'done adding files'. I usually c,ose out all the dialogs and then hit File Manager again to make sure that the file was added (you will only see the filename at this point). Then submit. Image should appear.

So, finally finished redoing the fuel & vacuum lines on the 19 (picture attached). Admittedly I got a little carried away but I like the way it looks. So that is the one step forward. So I went to start it up (it ran fine prior to the copper work) and it sparked a little at the positive battery post, blew the fuse to the starter (PO put inline fuses to protect the components). Replaced the fuse and cleaned up the battery, but now the Starter/Generator won't even turn. The fuse on the back on the Starter/Generator is good. Any ideas?

Looking for a robe rail for an open car. Mounting holes are 28 1/2" center to center width-wise and approx 1 1/2" vertically. Please contact me with you asking price/condition/etc. Many thanks in advance, Richard

We are all green with envy....

I'm a newbie and I am lost about your comment 'nearchoclatetown'. Could you educate me please? I would greatly appreciate it. If it something I can look up in my 'Book of Information', just reference the section and I will read-up for myself.

Look to be an early Dodge. 3/4 ellitical springs in the rear. The correct license plate holder on the spare. the spare attachment arms are different than my 1919 and the way the rear fenders attach to the body tub 'flange' means that it is definietly earlier than 1918/19. Since there is no motor, see if you can read any numbers off of the fram cross member directly in fron tof the front passengaer seat (or where it would have been). If you post that number - many can tell you exactly (what month/yr) when this car was made.

Don't have anything to trade but may be interested in some top saddles for my 1919 Tourer

What about a airport vehicle? What did they use back then for night landings - where rural airports well lighted? Even today when they do check of the runways the vehicle turns on 'emergency' or flashing lights so it is not confused with a runway light. I also like the boat idea. The design hints that this was obviously something that needed to be sealed from the elements and possible 'point-able' or rotated to face the direction of interest.

I was wondering if the gear noise was just the nature of the car. In second something it really vibrating on the cowl or exhaust- so it may sound wqrse that it really is. I am running 600W oil I bought from the Model T suppliers and even added some STP engine treatment to make it really sticky (as this was recommended by an old newsletter). Thanks for taking to the time to respond.

Don't mean to hijack this thread, but would the timing also be my issue? I finally got my 1919 on the road this past weekend. Other than 1st and 2nd being rather noisy it ran OK. When I hit 3rd (extrememly quiet) the car would maintain speed but not really accellerate no matter what I did with the throtte. Any advice on the gear noise and lack of power in third?

Any truth to what I read in an old article about applying linseed oil to the wood wheels to help them from drying out?

The article I read in the DB newletter mentioned that if fuel was being sucked in through the vacuum line it would be cooler than if it was operating correctly.

From my very limited experience (6 Months) with these system each of the above posts could be causing the issues (sunken float, hole in the inner tank, flapper valve). I think I read that if the vaccum line is cold then the issue is with the vacuum tank and if the vacuum line is hot then the issue is with the carb. I would start with the tank IMO.

I just had this same problem with my Dodge. The 'flapper' valve at the bottom of the inner tank has come off - which means that the vacuum tank is constantly feeding the carb gas - instead of 'on-demand'. Remove the line connections to the tank, remove the 8 or so screws around the perimeter of the tank top and pull the top out of the vaccum tank - like most cars this will just be the float mechanism. Now remove the inner tank and you will see (at the bottom) the outlet for the gas. There should be a metal 'flapper' that is held on but two screws. I bet your flapper is at the bottom of the outer tank (like mine). Just re-install the flapper (make sure the surfaces mate well) and the re-install everything. Hope this helps.