Bill Harmatuk

Nice 1966 Chevrolet Caprice on New Bern, NC, Facebook, yard sales. Decent car. I'd buy it. 5,500.00. Wish I knew how to copy and paste it. Bill H

Its all about the front fenders. Bill H

From hours of searching.... What I could find was.... Chrysler Corporation cars from 1928 to 1931, restored, barn finds and original unmolested. 9 Black Firewalls 16 Body Color Firewalls Body color it is. Thanks for the replies. Bill H

It won't be long ... I'm putting the front fenders and splash aprons on the 1930 CJ-6. I have never seen, and never seen signs of anti- squeak between the front fenders and aprons and the frame. There are rubber pads between the fenders /aprons and body but nothing between the frame and front fenders / aprons. It appears the fenders, etc are screwed / bolted to the frame before the body goes on. So. Has anyone "been there, done that" I sure don't want squeaks. Chances are my better judgement says go with the anti-squuek. Just asking. Bill H

There is now. Bill H

Thanks so much, 33. I'm going with black, BUT.! I'm gonna search the internet some more and keep a tally. Desoto, Dodge, Plymouth and Chrysler and the years. I'm sure there will be an expert chiming in shortly. Ok Tim Wolf. What color is that pretty 77, firewall..? ? Bill H

30 Chryslers of color, other than black. What color is your firewall.?? My 30 CJ, 4 door, was black all over from the factory and I'm thinking I might go with another color. I'm not real crazy about the factory colors on the Auto Color Library but might go with a blue, green or brown. Tough decision. Martin Lumm sent a bulletin that said you could get any color of the rainbow for 15.00 when you ordered your car. Some one pick a color for me. Black for fenders, aprons, and gas tank cover.

The Filling Station has a complete rebuild kit for windshield risers. They sell Chevrolet parts. Bill H

I bought a 30 Desoto K model ??, transmission, from Wheelmang about 2 weeks ago. Just looked. Nothing like that on the transmission. I didn't get the brake handle but what I did get is not the same. Bill H

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The seat for the bleeder valve....(part of the brake cylinder), internal to the threaded bleeder valve hole, is cut to death, screwed up, pitted, almost gone.... from / by, some one that thought he / she was doing a good job cleaning all 4 brake cylinders. The bleeder will not seat, to the internal seat. There is no machined face left. Bought 4 new cylinders. Lubed with synthetic grease. Everything new. Bigger shoe towards front. Synthetic fluid from Cartel. I have great brakes.

NAPA Auto Parts has the crush washers you need. Bring the 2 different sizes to the store and they can match them or order them. John Kieser gave instructions on annealing the washers to make them softer. A search might find how he heated the washers .... then dropped them in oil. I was hard headed and didn't do anything to my copper washers. I'm using silicone brake fluid and no leaks. I'll find my original bleeder valves and take a picture. Bill H

I think you are spot on, Mr. Keiser. I almost said, 30 CJ-6 till I saw the front spring hangers. Half of the gas tank cover is rusted away, also. Bill

My 1930 Chrysler CJ, had that same, all cast iron carburetor Zenith on it when I bought it. No vacuum tank. Has a fuel pump. It only ran with the choke half closed. Could never get it to work right. I came across a BB-1 really cheap off a 1930 CJ that was being rodded and boxed my Zenith up. I plan to have it rebuilt one day so I can run my original air cleaner. If I were you I would have that cast Iron Zenith rebuilt. Probably a better carburetor. They put BB-1s on everything. They are good, and you can buy rebuild kits for them, but they made big and small jetted models. Its a crap shoot unless you do some research. Good Luck Bill H

This is what my Toyota Tundra is made from. There is a million dollars worth of stainless on the Buicks, Oldsmobiles, Cadillacs and Mopars. Bill h

Great advise, Guys. Thats what I would do. Wish I was there to help. Bill H

Best way to look at the video is with your finger on the play / pause control. What a shame. Bill H

Thank you for the pictures. I am also running a BB-1. The drip I'm told is the nature of the beast with the up-draft BB. I only have the drip when cold starting using only one small pump of the throttle and some choke. Yes, the exhaust is directly under the leak / drip. My family and friends get uncomfortable when they smell gas and see the gas vaporize on the hot exhaust. I was also wondering what to do about the leak when my engine dust pans are painted and installed. I've seen the pictures before and now it is a priority. Amazingly, I was talking about the re-circulation tube just 2 days ago. Thank You, Again. (Might do this job today). Bill H

Large shoe to the front. 1/8 inch larger diameter boor, (bore), to the front. Riveted brake shoes. AAAANNNNDDDDD (And), silicone brake fluid with no leaks. I'm sticking to it. Bill Harmatuk

NOT SOLD. STILL FOR SALE. Bill H

Thanks for the photos. Nice.

Sold. Bill Harmatuk

Hope the water was fresh and not salt. That would be my first consideration. Location, when and where damage occurred. Wish I was a young man again. I'd go for it.! Bill H.

Back in 1985, or so, there was a 1930 Chrysler 66 2 door, (not a 77) It was owned by a friend. It was a running, driving car but not too pretty. All brown. He sold it. It was in Bridgeton. Across the river from New Bern, NC. I thought I saw it a few years later in New Bern, behind some one's house in a nice, older neighbor hood, but I never asked anything about it. Not there anymore unless its in a barn / garage. Yes. Don't see many 2 door Chrysler Sedans. Thats how I remember. So you're 77 must be lonely. 77's are just so top shelf. My bottom shelf CJ-6, 4 door, is slowly moving forward. Bill H

The new cylinders were not re-sleeved with brass. They are new. I dis-assembled them last night and checked the bore for rust etc. Taped up the ends of bore, cleaned and painted exterior with Eastwood Brake Gray paint. I dry fitted this morning and they all fit. Large bore to the front and all bolts match holes in the backing plates. (I must be living right). It appears that the cups were pre lubed from the supplyer. I will add a little more silicone grease to the cups before final assembly. I'm happy. Moving forward. I can"t believe I got this lucky. The cylinders were purchased off of E Bay.