38ShortopConv.

John, its on very first page this LZ WEB SITE about 6th post down titled ENGINE REMOVAL 39 zephyr. open it up ,first picture. Roy.

I sat pump on top of cross member, drivers side well up out of sight, bolted clamp to spare factory hole on front side of cross member. Cut steel fuel line, cleaned up, pushed brass olives [ferels] on, slipped high pressure rubber fuel line over olives, clamped both sides. Only use for priming after parked up, been there for years, checked two months ago no leaks.

John. Top marks for perseverance with your gearbox rubber mount. I suspect the original factory mount was vulcanized to the mounting bracket [like the Ford ones] to help with the sheer weight of the V12 engine. A touch of rubber adhesive may help in your case, or you may be able to re vulcanize it. I think you would need to get a jig made for that. Twenty two years ago I cut a solid piece of solid rubber and pulled the studs up tight, it sort of did the job but sagged and g/box used to sometimes bump on the cross member and have a bit of clutch shudder. I did about 8000mls on that setup. Had done about 17000mls previously. That G/box mount does a lot of wok in there and also helps keep the front and rear axles square to the frame. The 38 sedan has been gone 8 yrs now . About 18 yrs ago I needed front engine mounts for the 38 Convertible, they were bad. I had jigs made for the front mounts and " fan assembly" and had new rubber vulcanized on, they came up nice, had 3 sets made for my buddies, they helped pay for the jigs, that' was the expensive bit, $180 for each jig, two of them, $90 for each mount and " fan assembly". All units are still holding together today, mine have done over 20000mls .Just 6 mths. ago I refitted the Columbia 2 speed back axle and noticed the G/box mount was starting to look a bit ragged around the edges, its holding up ok but It looked perfect 20 yrs ago, thought about a jig now but didn't have the will, just needed to get Columbia together and installed after 6 months of hassles. I may have to revisit it later, so am watching yours with interest. [PS Columbia is running well] Just thought I would share this with you. . Roy.

Hi, have a look at [ Engine Removal ] 39 Zephyr post first picture, oil filter shown there I think would be similar to 37, someone will correct me if its not. Cheers Roy.

You can replace the seal by removing the top plate on s/box and lift sector shaft up and out after removing bottom steering arm. Don't loose any shims. Place container underneath to catch any oil. Measure housing opening for OD of seal, take sector shaft to seal supplier, get lip type spring loaded seal, tap into s/box housing with lip facing up. I use diff. oil in my 38 s/box. The box will unbolt from frame, drop to floor after removing steering wheel,[ nut under horn button], wire at bottom, tap s/wheel off with small heavy hammer and block of wood or puller and remove dash bracket bolts on column and clamp at box and slide tubing up. Steering column shaft can be pulled out of box by removing top bearing plate bolts, You may have to drop s/box into floor pit or raise front of car or if convertible put top down to remove column sleeve in place. I had a sheet metal man make me a new "heat exchanger" a simple tube one. Works ok.

Beltfed, .. Coil Resistance.. Coil on my 38 LZ. has resistance of 4300 ohms on each secondary winding, the primary resistance is 0.8 ohms each winding. I suspect it could have had new innards. I have run coil for 20 years, 24000 miles. with a couple of distributor resets, it has never missed a beat, runs strong. My spare get me home coil reads 4000 and 3700 ohms, is only good for 90 miles. The ballast resistors add 0.8 ohms to the primary. I have always run 8 volt battery. I did voltage and current tests with both 6 and 8 volt battery and the readings were very similar, almost self ballasting. Ohms law suggests the higher the voltage the lower the current. When the present 8 volt battery dies [ they last about 6 yrs.] are getting hard to get here, I'm changing to 12 volt. I have got 12 volt LZ. coil off Jerry Richman, it measures 4600 ohms!! each secondary, 0.8 ohms primary, new ballast resistors 0.8 ohms same as old resistors. I think a lot of the spark ' Flux ' intensity relies on the condenser capacity!! 38mf. ? Could this make the condenser a ' Flux Capacitor." Back to the future. Things to ponder over. Roy.

Yes the 39 handbrake cable center shaft assembly may be shorter? or different and bolt straight on. Calling all 39 LZ owners.

Back in 96 the lite switch on the 38 fell apart but I was able to fit a replacement which had bolt on solder lugs. A bear of a job getting under there. A year later I fitted a complete new wiring loom, To accomplish this I removed the complete seat frame, the center column, the gear [shift] lever and steering wheel. Threw down a mattress and pillow and spent the next 3 or 4 weeks under there. Just recently I needed to replace the temp. gauge, removed both glove boxes ash tray radio controls and used a mirror to locate the 3 x 7/32 nuts holding the speedo assembly unit which houses the temp gauge. It also exposes the lite switch terms. That's another way of getting in.

You maybe able to get some 38/39 LZ conduits from your ratrod mate or shorten the Ford conduits and have some new cables made to length. We have a brake cable man in town here but that's not very handy to you.

I'm assuming your 38 LZ has been changed from cable brakes to hydraulic and a previous owner has fitted a hydraulic master cylinder to the frame cross member which prevents the central cross arm shaft assembly being refitted to its original position to centralize your e/brake cables. If this is the case you may have to alter the cross arm assembly or relocate the hydraulic cylinder. Just a bit of a guess.

Yes sort of. Are you making up a hand brake cable hook up system? If so just use this cable cross arm shaft as it is. The cable to the handbrake hand piece inside car hooks into the slotted hole in center of cross arm shaft, the cables to the rear wheel parking brakes hook up to the two top holes on the cross arm shaft assembly.

New Zealand calling, Yes the spring center bolt, if not centered may cause crab walking and steer into a corner quicker more one way than the other, just guessing really. Thanks for your comment about our welfare re earthquake. We are OK. hit at midnight, our bed rocked, hasn't done that for a while now! the curtain drawstring weight swung about and kept banging the wall. No damage thankfully to us . We are 450 miles north of the demolished area houses and roads. They are isolated, access only by air or sea now. The tsunami was called off. Now its raining and stormy. Thanks for your concern. Call over some time, its usually quite pleasant. You will be welcome. Roy.

My 2 cents worth, How much steering wheel play have you got? Should be nil without binding. Radial tires are great for driving on old cars, I run mine at 38LB. on my 38 L/Z. You could check all wheel nuts, rear axle nuts, front hub nuts and the front and rear spring center " U" bolt nuts. Make sure the square head center bolt is flush with the top of the hole in the frame.

The oil canister on all L/Zs is a Bi-pass filter rather than a full flow filter. The return pipe goes to the pan on 36, 37 and early 38 Zephyrs. The 36,37s have solid valve lifters but the early 38s and later have hydraulic valve lifters. On 36 to early 38 blocks the bell housing has only two oil supply holes, one for the oil pressure sender and one to supply oil to the canister. From mid 38 to 48 there is a third oil hole slightly lower down on the bell housing, this is the oil return hole from the canister to the block. This return line gives filtered oil direct to the hydraulic lifters which they enjoy.( The main oil supply from the pump inside the pan goes straight to the bearings unfiltered.) There is another oil supply to the hydraulic lifters at the back of the valley thru a 12 lb valve, this I believe is held shut with oil flow from the canister during normal running but opens if the filter becomes blocked to supply unfiltered oil to the lifters . On the early 38 blocks with only two oil supply holes on the bell housing, this 12lb. valve was the only oil supply to the lifters.

Not a lot that you don't already know. The way I remember it , it says , H for 1937, 730 for 4 door sedan and 4941 says it is the 4941 th 4 door sedan made for 1937.

Allen Wellahan had one available a few weeks ago. Give him a call, listed in parts services.

Yes, especially thru the hydraulic lifters.

Hi Beltfed, haven't heard much from you lately ,thanks for the speedo drive pics for the Columbia, its all assembled, installed and back in 38 LZ conv. now. Yes it will be carbon filling up those 4 holes in the hotbox inlet manifold riser. The exhaust heat from the 4 holes on top of the block travels up into the riser and stops the carburetor icing up in really cold weather. You can clean them out carefully then sit manifold upside down overnight, fill those 4 holes with water and see if the level drops indicating an exhaust leak into the fuel air area of the inlet manifold. LZ motors don't run too well if hot exhaust gas is getting mixed with the fuel air system. If there is a leak you can block those holes off with welch plugs, engine may hesitate in cold weather till warms up . Nuff for now.

Looks like you need a better manifold! Hot exhaust gas from the exhaust ports on top of block plus corrosion have eaten the hot box out which normally warms up the fuel intake manifold during cold weather to stop carburetor icing up. Cant see how motor would run very well or long before the manifold burns thru into the intake system mixing hot exhaust gas with fuel air mixture. Are the valve springs etc. burnt from the exhaust gas heat? You could still do a compression test with the manifold off! You may have to do a valve spring job. If you can get cylinder compressions up, drop the pan again wash sludge out of valve valley area, fit good manifold and if it fires up see what it run like and if its got any oil pressure..

On my 38 L/Z the clock surround is chromed, the ash tray handles are a creamy ivory plastic colour. I bought some new ones years ago, cant remember where, Knobsoup may make them, he may chime in.

Don't know about 41 LC but on my 38 L/Z the round center " horn button" has 3 short legs under it with feet which push down thru 3 gaps in steering wheel center, there is also a spring under the horn button, give it a turn to the right and it clips in.

Bill , I use 30/40 or 40/50, non synthetic, the thicker the better with zinc, in my 38 L/Z. I find radial tyres are better for a L/Z that's driven, steers straighter, lighter and has less rolling resistance. Cheers.

Give Gerry Richman a call, he has new ones

Bill, short answer to 3 questions, # 1, no. only if the resistor is faulty. # 2. my L/Z is a 38, very difficult to get at, don't know about 47 Continentals but bound to be, you would need to have a look. # 3. could do, resistors drop the voltage down from 6 to 4" 1/2 volts at the coils, you could check for loose connections at the resistors, can cause overheating and higher resistance and too low voltage at the coils. Original L/Z COILS ARE RATED AT 4 1/2 VOLTS.

Ditto on a 38 L/Z s/wheel.