38ShortopConv.

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About 38ShortopConv.

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  • Birthday 01/20/1942

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    Hamilton New Zealand

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  1. You probably have a broken strand on the inner cable, catching on the outer sheath or a break in the sheath causing a snag. I would take complete cable /sheath assembly out and take it to a old speedo repair shop or similar place and get a complete new inner and outer cable assembly built possibly using your old end fittings. Then see what happens! The problem may be inside the OD. unit, oh dear.
  2. Is this lead Factory lead or repair lead? may be both. Just curious.
  3. Could be close to normal! But you need to have good head gaskets w/pumps and hoses to start with and a clean radiator. If you start with a full radiator and give the motor a good drive 10 miles highway speed and stop it will have lost some fluid even drop some coolant on the spot and find its happy level . Mine settles half way up top outlet holes. On a hot day mine will run 3/4 to hot on temp. gauge. I run thermostats and zero pressure cap. Used to run 4 Lb. cap and higher with recycle bottle but still ended up with same fluid level. I gave up on antifreeze, some of that stuff seems to track thru all sorts of non gaps, keep it in the garage when frosty. I use soluble oil, very small amount, 24 to 1? ratio, get right grade? engineers cutting oil, they are not all the same. The block stays clean the aluminum heads and pump bushes love it, no squealing bushes. I drain my coolant if Im not using car for several weeks, no weeping gaskets, no rusty water. I can drive all day and finish up with the same level I started with.
  4. LZ. V12 ignition timing is slightly complex as the engine has an uneven pulse between the left and right bank. The right bank leads by 7- 1/2 degrees and the left bank lags by 7-1/2 degrees, a pull me / push you pulse to compensate for the 75 degree angle of the block. Block should be 60 degrees or 90". This is why Jack Fleming wrote in "Tech. Tips" Vol. 27 # 5 Sept/Oct. 1994 in TWOTZ that the Ign. timing of No. 4 cyl. [right bank] should be 22-1/2 degrees after No. 1 cyl.[ left bank] and the firing of next cyl. No 9 [ left bank] should be 37-1/2 degrees after No. 4 cyl. and so on. It makes an interesting read. For best results the distributor timing should be set on a workshop Stroboscope or small bench degree disk by an experienced operator. This method sets ignition timing and scycronises the left and right banks together perfectly. But its fun trying it yourself!
  5. Yes, the two large spring loaded flanges are designed to slip around the main shaft boss to smooth out any minor vibrations. Can be a trap if you have timing marks on flanges!
  6. Thanks, my harmonic balancer on V12 is doing fine, was just curious, thought the Chevy balancer may have been from a 1930s 6 cyl. Chevy. All good.
  7. Yes, it seems its just a matter of matching your axle length and number of spur gear teeth with a Ford axle from the thirties. The broken axle that came out of my 38 LZ. and the one I replaced it with both had FORD stamped on them but no part number visible.
  8. Hi Chad, sounds like it may have broken an axle. That happened to my 38 LZ. about 4 years back. Jack the left wheel up, give it a shake, see if it wobbles and falls off. Can be due to worn axle tapper, due to loose nut and or worn bearing housing sleeve. The sleeve has a grease nipple and should be regularly greased. The sleeve can be replaced. Check the under side of sleeve for wear. Similarities? The 36,37 LZ. . rear end is similar to Ford I believe but from 38 the housings where heavier and the gear wheel / pinion was Hypoid. The axles are the same as Ford as much as I can tell. Roy
  9. Tie the brushes up out of the way to allow the armature to be reinstalled all the way in.
  10. Pull each brush wire out against the spring tension, peg them, or release the spring so the brushes clear the armature. [commutator]
  11. Hi Vern, Yes there should be oil pumped to the lifters if they are hydraulic, none if they are solid lifters, But I dont think you would get much oil if any on a Starter Crank . As I have not read any previous history about the leadup to this situation its hard to say what your problem may be. Is this a new build? Has the motor been running? Do the lifters rattle? Do you have oil pressure at the dash gauge? You may have the oil filter pipes connected incorrectly or no pressure relief valve at the front of motor or the reducing valve at the back of the motor has been replaced with a solid plug in a earlier life by a previous owner. As I say don't think you would get much oil if any at the lifters on a Starter Crank as its too slow and has to flow thru the reducing valve as well as fill the filter. You may like to have a read of an earlier post on this forum under V12 LINCOLNS titled V 12 LIFTERS by Cokekid April 11. See reply by 38 Shortop on hydraulic lifters. Roy
  12. Hi MGB, The way I see it, original factory or new ballast resistors of 0.8 Ohms. are used on either 6 or 12 volt resistor coils . Of course you need to switch to 12 volt " Resistor Coils" when switching from 6 volt to 12 volt and not rely on a higher ballast resistor to reduce the 12 volt down to 6 volt and expect to use the original 6 volt coil. Gerry Richman can supply a original 12 volt resistor coil. You can use straight 6 or 12 volt coils [non ballast] [non original] with no resistors if you choose to. See post on " Hard Starting" for 6 volt readings, 12 volt will be higher . Abe @ Tom may chime in. Simple isn't it.
  13. Yes, can be. Hold the unit in a vice, carefully. Just press the ring thing down against the spring pressure with a fork arrangement and flick the horse shoe clip out.. Try not to loose sight of where the clip ends up. Good luck!
  14. Hi, all good.Sounds like a great plan, , keep at it. Thanks for sharing.