Jump to content

38ShortopConv.

Members
  • Posts

    287
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 38ShortopConv.

  1. Yes, Damm! could be a lot of work if gear on cam is slipping! Both heads off, all valves out, pull cam. Maybe that is why motor needed rebuilding, sudden loss of oil pressure. Could gear be Tigg or Migg? welded in place? Theres a lot at stake though. Good luck and keep persevering.
  2. Could be what you say but the large center gear is removable for cleaning etc. may not have been put back in during reassembly. Gears are accessible behind a bolt on cover rear of block in front of flywheel.
  3. I visited the car wreckers, found a 2016 Honda something left and right front door checks, fitted and works well, 3 stops, doesn't swing open or shut in wind. Had to drill two 5/32" fixing holes in door frame .
  4. There are gears at back of block under cover plate behind fly wheel.[ See my post March 8 ] These gears drive oil pump off rear of camshaft. During engine rebuild these gears should be removed for cleaning oil ways etc. then refitted. The gear on rear of cam is part of the cam shaft I think and shouldn't slip. I suppose the cam shaft is turning and the cam gear at front has been fitted? Do you have 12 compressions and not just one?
  5. Give em a good wack with the soul of your rubber soled shoe or the palm of your hand above each mounting clip. I assume this is on the 38? I have only had two 38 LZs. Theres a large stud pattern and small stud pattern wheel , both use same type of hubcap mounting pins, non adjustable. If the pin heads are in reasonable condition and hubcaps are not out of round, they will stay on!.
  6. OH, so the pump does have a proper pickup, good, it just wasn't in the picture. Rear main drain apparently avoids oil leakage into clutch bellhousing area after a bit of wear has developed. You may need to find out what that copper pipe is connected to incase it is allowing oil pressure to bleed off. Also check oil pressure relief valve has been fitted. Another area where oil pressure can be lost is when a 1 inch? oil gallery plug falls out of a crank web, they are pressed in , about a dozen of em. Some pop out!
  7. Wow,! never seen anything like that before. That copper tube looks more like a drain pipe, would be above oil level I would think Should have a drain pipe from rear main on other side of pump though. The oil pump usually has a 1/2 inch? pickup pipe at bottom of pump down into oil with pickup strainer on end. Is there a hole at bottom of pump on other side we cant see in pic? Not sure which M15 or 19 you could use or what pump that is.
  8. Yes, start with taking inlet manifold off and check if a OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE has been fitted. Easier job than removing pan!
  9. No. both ports are supply ports, one for sender, other to feed filter usually into bottom of canister. Side outlet on canister goes to pan although it shouldn't matter as long as there is a restrictor in supply pipe line otherwise filter lid could leak oil. Before you drop pan you could check sender nipple is not blocking oil flow in gallery on block and also check oil pressure relief valve is fitted inside valve chamber front of block under 3/4" screw cap. The filter is a by-pass filter, just filters oil. Bearings are fed oil direct off pump internally.
  10. Remove sender, turn over on starter or fire up motor briefly, should have oil spurting out at top port. Is this a two port solid lifter 37 LZ bellhousing? or three port? 38 LZ onward have three ports,[ hydraulic lifter block]. The third lower port is connected to filter outlet and feeds filtered oil to hyd. lifters. Did you run motor with oil canister top off and still got no sign of oil? I think you would need cap on to create back pressure to register pressure on gauge. The oil pump may be missing or the drive gears at rear of camshaft under a plate may have been left out Is there oil in motor?
  11. Hi Tom, Don't think the headlight decoration was on 36 LZs
  12. Hi Tim, we met on this post back in 2018 and I PMd you I think, forgotten how I did it. Are you looking to aquire another LZ convertible? Roy
  13. So it sounds like you have a Columbia two speed rear axle in the 39? You have been holding out on us Scott, that's OK they were an optional extra. Those overdrives have a lot going on in them. I don't know about horizontal shaking but mine had a rumble from around 40 MPH. in OD after I rebuilt it!! Changed oil to" Pink Shock Proof" racing oil, and it gradually lost its rumble and runs smooth now. Does "clunk from high to low ratio though so I always change down as Im pulling up to stop. Not game enough to change down at speed! Does any one out there know if its safe to change down at speed? or what the procedure is?
  14. Wow! bold step. Good to have you back. Thanks for sharing. Bring on the turret.
  15. Floorboard seals. The gas--brake-clutch pedals and dimmer switch has a bolt on metal mud cover under the floor over the pedals ,see if your metal cover fits there. Carpet seals on top of floor.
  16. Colin Spong, could help, London area. 37 LZ sedan, coupe, 38 convertible, LZOC member.
  17. Has anyone ever come across the 26H 4.222 - 1 / 4020 higher ratio? ring gear. 38 teeth. What years would that cover?
  18. Detroitsoul I think you are talking 38 LZ. My 38 wiper knob may have on side screw or just push on or be glued. Glove box handles screw on from inside lid. Escutcheons are spring loaded just push in towards door panel to reveal pin thru shaft and push out with 1/8 rod ? or scriber. . Can be fiddly.
  19. Abe, how are those adjustable lifters sounding now? As Ken said the adjustable lifters are lubed from crank splash and mist in valve chamber area so you wont see any great oil flow in lifter gallery. With the removal of hydraulic lifters and with the rear regulator plugged you don't get oil flow thru the hydraulic lifter oil gallery so you would need to leave screw cap off above rear plugged regulator to allow oil to circulate thru bypass filter, is filter getting hot? Oil thru hyd. oil gallery is for opening the valves not for lube. Not sure about drilling 1/16" holes in front to lube cam gear, may loose oil pressure if its into main oil gallery? Oil already flows from front oil pressure relief valve to cam gear. I once ran adjustable lifters with hydraulic cam, were very noisy! Hydraulic cam has steeper profile plus solid adjustable lifters weigh 2-1/2 ozs. compared to 1/2 oz for solid non adjustable lifters. I changed back to hydraulic lifters real quick. Ahh, Nice and quiet. Roy
  20. What makes you think you have stuck valves? Spray CRC down plug hole around side of valve head with plastic straw provided with CRC can. Some valves can be tapped down gently thru spark plug hole. [Check Cam Down].Remove inlet manifold and spray CRC around lower valve stems and guides. Use valve pry bar to pull any stuck valves down.[ CCD]. Also spray down inlet valve port holes. If you still have sticking valves after this remove appropriate head,s. take them right out, clean them up.
  21. There are shims in steering box to remove to compensate for Sector /Worm wear. Remove top plate, drop Pittman arm off, withdraw sector shaft out top of steering box , catch oil, remove smallest shims first, reassemble. [ patience and perseverance]
×
×
  • Create New...