JanZverina

Can someone tell (or show) me how the fuel hose is routed on a '63 401 with no A/C from the fuel pump to the gas filter that sits in the bracket? Or is it sup[posed to be a shaped pipe? Seems like a hose could easily kink if it passes through a one of the large holes in the alternator bracket -- or does it go behind and under the bracket? Thanks!

All the credit goes to Bob - I just bought them and very carefully managed to peel back the tangs and replace the center emblem, and then press the tangs back down with a small block of pine and arm power while the wheel cover was face-down on a soft surface.

Hi Ed, A picture to show it DID happen.

I ordered and received a set of these tri-shield wheel emblems and am delighted to report that they fit perfectly and look great. My '63 came with the standard wheel covers (not the spinners or simulated knock-offs). Congrats to Turbinator for a job well done.

Do they also fit the standard wheel cover as shown here?

Thanks for the education, Ed. Rochester it is. Obviously I'm going to take it off and bring it back to the re-builder but I'm still curious as to what those who are more knowledgeable than myself think the cause may be.

Thanks, Dales 90. That would make sense, although I thought the accelerator pump only provided that extra squirt of fuel when the gas pedal was pressed hard. Still, when I pressed on the pedal to try to keep it running, the engine just quit.

I had my Rochester 4GC recently rebuilt by a recommended rebuilder here in SD, and upon re-installation this weekend it would fire up briefly and then stall. I checked the factory shop manual and adjusted the idle screws and throttle stop screw to initial recommendations just to get it to run, but still a brief start and stall-out. I checked that the inline gas filter was free and clear and in the right direction. I then cranked the engine with the fuel hose (brand new) end stuck into a bottle and the fuel pump looks to be working fine. I tried a few squirts of starting fluid, but it fired up than died. I also poured some gas into the carb and it ran for a little bit and then quit. So I don't think fuel is getting into the carb inlet (front and center). I even tried blowing into that brass inlet despite the delicious taste of gas, and it seems obstructed. I remember that on my '60 Electra I could see the gas being squirted into the barrels when I pumped the throttle linkage, but I see nothing like that here. Before I remove the carb and bring it back, does anyone have some ideas as to what else to try or what the problem might be? Pix attached just in case I messed up something, but I took a full set of pix before removal and they match up. Thanks in advance.

Forgive me if this has been posted by someone, but I just received a new release of a 63 Riv in Spruce Green with the white custom interior. Here are some pix. The model is by Acme and available from Mint Models in Latham NY. Now if I can only figure out a way to repaint it in Teal Mist!

Update: I had my QJet 4GC rebuilt by a recommended shop in San Diego (thanks for the referral, CarbKing Jon) and it was confirmed that this is indeed a correct carb for '63, #7023143 as stated on the triangular aluminum tag, which I'm glad to know that it was not just migrated to a later carb. My Q is: What part of the top of the carb was the ID tag attached to at the factory, and at what position so it didn't get crushed by the massive red crinkle air cleaner? The tag has seen better days during the last 56 years, so I'd like to give it some respect after gently straightening it out in a padded vise. Looks like four choices: LF, LR, RF, or RR, under the uppermost slot screws on the carb housing -- but I may be wrong. Any help appreciated before I stand back and fire it up. I was told that the previous rebuilder used the wrong gasket kit and seriously misadjusted the floats. Hopefully things are in spec enough so I can get to the shop for a final tuning.

Thanks MikeJS, I'll give it the Silhouette double-sided stick a try. Thanks, Turbinator. My concern with the epoxy is that if not applied smoothly it could show under the vinyl, or that it may be a bear to remove should I have to re-do a section. But I'll keep it in mind. And RivNut Ed, you may very well be right that it's the material, not the adhesive! -Jan

I didn't want to hijack the 'Gluing Wood to Metal' thread, but it reminded me that I still haven't found an adhesive that really holds the black vinyl in place on the 63's center console and center dash section/ash tray cover. I've tried both Sta' Put and 3m Super 77, and it still starts to lift after a while, especially on a warm day. The metal surfaces are free of old adhesive and prepped with acetone or lacquer thinner, and I've applied the adhesive to both sides and waited a couple minutes per directions. Any suggestions from the experts out there?

Does anyone familiar with greater San Diego know of a reputable carburetor rebuilder in the area? I'm ordering a rebuild kit from Jon at the Carb Shop in Eldon MO but unfortunately they no longer do rebuilds, just offer the kits.Thanks in advance,

Does anyone familiar with greater San Diego know of a reputable carburetor rebuilder in the area? I'm ordering a rebuild kit from Jon at the Carb Shop in Eldon MO but unfortunately they no longer do the rebuilds and just offer the kits. Thanks in advance,

Thanks all for your advice and expertise -- very much appreciated! I had some time to fiddle around with with this yesterday and it looks like it was a stuck float. I poured in some fresh gas and gently tapped the rear of the carb on both sides. Ran it on the fast cam and let it fully warm up to normal idle. I also pinched the inlet hose a couple times. It took longer than I expected for the stutter to happen but I could feel the fuel surge. I'll keep an eye on things going forward. Thanks again!

Last weekend (June 1/2) I took my '63 out for a spin after letting it sit about 4 weeks (bad me), and it had trouble keeping the choke operating in the cold position, where the front butterfly is open about 1/8th inch or so (this is San Diego). It was also hard starting after a partial refuel and running some errands. Yesterday it started on the fast idle cam fairly quickly but a n initial check under the hood showed the carb and surrounding manifold to be pretty wet with gas. I shut it down and let it sit for a few hours before mopping things up. No fuel line/hose leaks that I could see, and I'm also going to check if the plugs were fouled. The carb was completely rebuilt about two years ago by a rebuilding service recommended by BCA and has worked fine other than needing a small needle adjustment early on. Any ideas as to what I should start checking for from any experts out there? Thanks in advance.

Hi Rich, You'll note from the engine pix I recently sent you of my Teal Mist/White Leather '63 that I upgraded to a 1967 style dual master cylinder but kept the drum brakes all around. It's not on your side of the country, but I had the factory booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey at https://www.yelp.com/biz/power-brake-booster-exchange-portland They are highly recommended. It's important that you have him send you that correct square cut O-ring as mentioned earlier in this thread.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mastercraft-tires?N=4294879428 Pick the size closest to what you want. I have them on my '63 Riv and they're just fine and worth every dollar. Order 5 and be done with it.

Does anyone know if the silver-only tri-shield centers for the standard wheel covers are being reproduced, or if anyone has a good set of four for sale? Thanks!

Hi Terry, Please post this in the Riviera Owners Association section of this forum. You'll get some immediate answers.

Some interesting comments... https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2019/02/buy-drive-burn-classic-luxury-coupes-from-1963/#more-1659682

I had the same issue with a new Delco voltage regulator so it isn't always corrosion.

I think we may have covered all the major food and drink groups! Anyone know of a Riviera brand refrigerator or cupboard?

Being a first-gen Riv owner I don't usually weigh in on later Rivs, but kudos to Vanguard for the video and all the photos. No doubt it's a nice example. But as far as I know, GS or not, the 71s and 72s are those that typically bring the higher $$ in such condition (not $80K). I compare this to cars in my other vintage world, where the Series 1 E-type Jaguars trump the Series 2 and Series 3 models all day long. IMO, someone poured a lots of $$ into getting Riv up to this level, and is now seeking a return on his/her investment, which is their prerogative. But there's a a saying in the vintage car world that says one did not over pay - they just bought too early. Still, at $80K, that wait from "too early" may be a long time in coming . AFAIK, the 73's fat front bumper is a negative given the much more pure lines of the 71 or 72. Just my 2c.

Thanks, Ed. That's what I don't quite understand unless it has to do w/ride height, which has to be nominal given the delta in the two PSI levels.