JanZverina

Just saw this thread and I'm also soon starting some door work on my '63. Since your first posting mentioned that you also have the front sheet metal off the car, I'm assuming that means the front fenders as well. Would it make more sense to get those in proper alignment before aligning the doors, or am I missing something? -Jan

I agree with Adam - I don't know where it would fit!

The HO Riv is definitely an original molded-in tan color, and yes, Aurora. I thought it would be of some interest to ROA members. Also in this find were two Cobra coupes, a 60's Sting Ray coupe and first-gen Mustang hardtop.

Just curious if anyone is familiar with this recent find in the family home back in NY. Pix attached.

Thanks, EmTee. That makes sense to me. Still curious if anyone knows can recommend a good body shop in the greater San Diego area.

My since apoIogies in advance to Mr. Earl and Co. if I posted this to the wrong sub-forum, but can anyone recommend a body repair person or shop in the greater San Diego area that does good work at non-stratospheric prices? I'd like to have the two door skins on my '63 Riviera smoothed out and primed while they're off the car to tackle some inner door repairs. No rust but they've had some work done before my stewardship that could have been a lot better. Any leads appreciated!

Hi Electra 63, Another suggestion to solve the sloppy steering syndrome would be to go with a more responsive steering box, which made a huge difference in my '63 Riv, and may very well fit your Electra. Go the the Riviera site on this forum and look for Tom Telesco. He will rebuild your steering box with a quick ratio (QR) gearing. This mod really transformed my 63 Riv, essentially converting your box to an 808 QR. Tighter steering feel, better tracking, MUCH more responsive overall. He's very knowledgeable on Rivs and I imagine other big Buicks of the era.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-buick-gran-sport-9/ An ROA member?

Wow, Brian - great progress and beautiful work and attention to detail. So much so that it might be a shame to put a body over it! (only kidding... partly). Although my Buick is a '63 Riv it's always interesting to see how things were done 25 years or so earlier, and there seems to be lots of things that didn't change too much as far as basic principles and assembly processes as well as smaller fittings, etc. Keep up the good work! -Jan

Thanks Tom and Chasander. As usual, all very knowledgeable info which makes this particular forum so good! I'll keep everyone posted on my progress. My next 'big' job lies ahead and that's removing the door skins to tackle the inner mechanisms and rubbers. I've already printed copious notes on that process, thanks again to this forum. -Jan

That's what I thought, gungeey - yes, quite an exaggerated loop from what I see on p. 9-6!

Thanks, Bill. Those rubber pieces behind the rear bumper are exactly what I was referring to. Much appreciated as always. Some pix of my progress on this extremely rust-free Riv. Maybe someone can tell me if that brake line loop on the driver's side of the rear ham is factory correct or a creative addition done sometime prior to my 8-year stewardship. -Jan

Hi Turbinator, Do you have a link to that Lisle tool? And is there a special name for these? -Jan

Yes, Ed, that looks familiar and it lies flat on the glass if I recall correctly. Thanks! -Jan

Thanks Bill, yes, I suspect they were unpainted. It would probably make sense given the assembly sequence. Mine show just a little bit on the corners from some angles. That's a pretty wide molding as well. -Jan

With regard to the wide rubber molding that appears to be clipped on to the body pinch weld behind the top of the rear bumper, and more visible at the pointed end corners of the bumper: was that rubber piece painted body color at the factory or just black and installed afterward? Thanks, -Jan

I would like to remove the top/side (passenger side) stainless molding on the rear window. Does anyone have a link to which proper 'modern day' tool should be used to undo the clips. Also any thoughts if I have to remove another one as part of the sequence? I looking at the 4700 series Back Window section in the factory Body Service Manual, they show a 'J-9698' tool in one illustration on Page 4-1C. They also say to start in the middle of any molding and not the ends. Thanks again for any advice.

Original bottle and cap, repro sticker. -Jan

Good question and observations. My trans shows no signs of being painted and neither does the inspection/converter cover. -Jan

Quick question on a '63 Riv w/ a 401: Was the torque converter cover painted silver or left unpainted from the factory?

I have Tom's quick ratio steering gearbox in my '63 and if there's one thing that truly transforms everyday driving, it's this invisible mod. Night and day difference and all for the better. Tom goes by 'telriv' on this forum and an absolute font of knowledge! -Jan

Just for reference, the pix is of the one I have, which IIRC replaced the tatty original one on my '63 after I purchased the car it 10 years ago.

Apparently my magnets don't work because they keep on falling off those front drums! Seriously, that was a real "duh" moment for me, Ed, when you suggested that! I bought this Riv in late 2013 from the daughter of a very long-time owner (pbly not original owner) in Washington state. It already showed 95,604 on the odo but TMU (true mileage unknown) due to a lack of a complete service history. But I'm glad to know it still has the aluminum drums up front!

Some pix of the front drum now that I'm toiling away in the R/F zip code demucking the various components. Can anyone confirm if this is an aluminum or cast iron drum? Thanks!

Thanks all, especially EmTee and Tom M., regarding the drum colors. Mine are exactly that - a quick spray of black across the drum face and nothing on the fins. Mine (rear ones, at least) are cast iron and have a 60-fin count. As mentioned, they are not OEM factory, and my '63 came standard with the wheel covers with the all silver tri-shield center emblems. So now my remaining unanswered questions are: Are the front cast iron drums different from the rear drums? Telriv said "Better off sourcing good used. Rears are easy. Fronts are much more difficult & pricey." Which makes me think fronts are different, even cast iron ones. Where to get good rear used cast iron drums as Telriv suggests, making sure they fit a '63? And should I be looking for specific part numbers front and rear to make sure they fit a '63? (BTW my Riv still has reverse thread bolts, both front and rear, on the passenger side. Thanks for your collective input!! -Jan