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JanZverina

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Everything posted by JanZverina

  1. I just wanted to mention that the 808 QR steering box I recently ordered from from ROA Member Tom Telesco was worth every penny. It was installed late last week, plus a front-end re-alignment to his recommended specs - lots of positive caster! The difference is truly transformative: a nice increased level of steering effort, markedly better straight-ahead tracking, and much, much better response on road curves at (of course) moderate speeds. My alignment tech even said that this was one of the rare properly rebuilt boxes he sees, with new innards and not just the usual 'reseal it and forget it' approach. Kudos to Mr. Telesco. Not sure if some first-gen Rivs (I'm thinking GS models) had a QR box, but you first-gen owners might want to look into this.
  2. Thanks. Ed. That's what mine are but I see a few on Bring A Trailer that are all chrome including the grills.
  3. Quick question since I've seen them both ways. Are the two large cowl vents just below the wipers supposed to be all chrome or body-colored on the actual grilles?
  4. I've noticed the same thing on my '63 Riv with its OEM factory wheel covers. I spread the tangs (just a bit) and break out the rubber mallet to tap into place. It seems to help, but if you're checking tire pressures regularly, simply make that part of the routine. Most of us are used to fancy factory rims these days on our modern rides, which eliminate this issue. File under automotive engineering progress, I guess. I live in San Diego, and before that lived in Michigan (working at Chrysler HQ through various questionable mergers) so when BEVs are eventually declared mandatory in those colder climates, this will pale by comparison when one's range is sapped by heated seats, defrosters, etc.
  5. Cleanout time in the garage: Rather than throw them out or even put them in the recycle bin, I have a small assortment of parts that someone may be interested in. Some parts are free but you pay shipping from San Diego. Pix attached. Here goes: 1963 Riviera: Pair of reverse light housings and assembly. Pitted, one lense good condition, the other crazed. A rechromer’s dream! Make offer. Master cylinder. Not sure if anyone but a purist would want a single MC these days but I’m offering before I toss. Free, you pay shipping. Later model Riviera: Hood emblem for l1979-84 (?) Riviera. Gold “R”. VG condition. It was on my ’63 when I bought it. Make offer.
  6. Cleanout time in the garage: Rather than throw them out or even put them in the recycle bin, I have a small assortment of parts that someone may be interested in. Some parts are free but you pay shipping from San Diego. Pix attached. Here goes: 1963 Riviera: Pair of reverse light housings and assembly. Pitted, one lense good condition, the other crazed. A rechromer’s dream! Make offer. Master cylinder. Not sure if anyone but a purist would want a single MC these days but I’m offering before I toss. Free, you pay shipping. Later model Riviera: Hood emblem for l1979-84 (?) Riviera. Gold “R”. VG condition. It was on my ’63 when I bought it. Make offer. 1960 Buick: CS 589 carb rebuild kit for a 1960 Buick 401 4-barrel, probably fits more models. Unopened kit from The Carburetor Shop, Eldon Mo. I paid $55 for it, so make me an offer I can’t refuse! Water pump housing. Fits 1960 Buick 401, probably others. Shaft to fan broken. If this is just scrap, please tell me - I won’t be offended. Free, you cover shipping. Pair of horns from my ’60 Buick, not sure if they’re original to car. One stamped with ‘423’, one ‘424’, for what I assume is one high note, one low note. Make offer. Glad to take more pix and answer any questions.
  7. Thanks, Chris, I'm in University City close to UC San Diego, where I used to go to work before COVID, but I'm now working from home like a lot of other folks who were fortunate to keep getting a paycheck. And of course one seems to work more hours from home! I'm not driving my daily ride or classics nearly enough these days so I think that's what got me in trouble this time around. Especially the Riv - my maintenance sked is based more on time gone by than miles piling up, that's for sure.
  8. Many thanks, Jim. I think you gave me enough guidance to sleuth through this. After studying the Edelbrock 1406 pdf a bit closer, it looks like the fast idle cam was in the wrong position, and just for good measure I inspected the choke assembly more closely. It started right up normally after some minor adjustments but I'll do another "cold" start tomorrow here in 80s+ San Diego. I know, we're spoiled. But this weekend we've been getting a special dose of airborne ash from the LA-area wildfires!
  9. Hoping for some clues. Yesterday I started up by '63 Riv, which was not started in a month - my bad. I had a new Edelbrock 1406 installed on it in late 2019 and it always ran very well, worlds better than a wonky 4GC which was beyond a rebuild if anyone remember my earlier thread. (The rebuilder was kind enough to give me a full refund.) I understand that with the 1406, one should press the gas pedal once with the electric choke, but I had to press the pedal numerous times for it to start, and when it finally did, it immediately idled excessively fast, and if I pressed the gas pedal slightly it would stay at the higher rpm.. Not sure what happened, but after shutting down quickly and manually pulling the throttle linkage back a bit and lowering the idle screw quite a bit I managed to get it to start at a lower idle on choke, but before long (it's about 96 degrees here in San Diego this weekend) the engine started running off the choke and at a fairly normal rpm. This morning after a full cool-down I tried to restart and same thing, a very high idle at startup. I went on the Edelbrock site and it said to make sure there's no air getting in the carb via an open port. There's a screwed-in metal plug at the center rear (power brake port). There's a tight connection to the PCV port up front center, a good hose on the 3/16 vacuum advance port on passenger side, and a tight cap on the 3/16 manifold vacuum port on the driver's side. I also see there's a fast idle screw below the idle screw but I can't imagine how that would get out of adjustment so fast. The large throttle linkage spring is in place and everything looks to be connected according to the shop manual. Any ideas welcome!
  10. Looking for this part, which is also offered by Edelmann under Part # 80717. (I also posted this in Buick Buy/Sell but thought some Riv folks could be of help as well.) And leads appreciated! Thanks!
  11. Looking for this part, which is also offered by Edelmann under Part # 80717. And help or leads appreciated!
  12. That because great minds think alike, Ed!
  13. Try this shop and forget Rock Auto rebuilds and all that cheap crap. They actually know what they're doing and will guide you through the process if you need any advice. They really came through for me. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/
  14. Wow. The two images of the engine bay seem to indicate they spent little time on anything there other than darkening the photos to make the engine color look more acceptable. All for hoping for an $18,400 flip minus transpo expenses?
  15. The odd thing was that the actual sign was one of those fabric sail panels that retract into the base, i.e. something seen at more professional trade shows. Pretty good graphics, etc. But yes, he didn't have the text spell-checked (at the very least), and as mentioned, some of those numbers don't appear to be grounded in verified research if available. Maybe the buyer will contact ROA at some point and ask for help in bringing this car up a notch or two. Or maybe he's already looking to flip it. At any rate, it will be a reality check for sure!
  16. I attended the McCormick Auction in Palm Springs CA this weekend, where a '65 GS was hammered sold at $41,500, apparently with no reserve. I would say the car was a Condition #3 at best. The engine compartment left a lot to be desired, starting with the engine block color and various missing vacuum lines - feel free to comment. Newer exterior paint but lots of amateur-level touch-ups and an aftermarket wood steering wheel. Some interesting reading on the signage next to the car.
  17. Hi Adam, I've been following your projects for many years and admire your craftsmanship as well as your documentation skills for the forum. Probably an uninformed question, but does leaving polyester in what I assume are the low spots create any issues for those who may still run a magnet over a panel to see if there's "bondo"? And, is the poly a pretty stable filler over the long haul given temp changes, shrinkage, etc.? Keep up the good work and updates!
  18. I had a beautiful 1964 Skylark Wildcat 310 coupe many moons ago that lurched out unexpectedly into oncoming traffic one day. The solution was that chain link holding down the engine some solid engine mounts were available shortly thereafter. Those mounts were the first thing I replaced when I acquired my '63 Riv in 2015, just to be on the safe side. Peace of mind for me and others, as they say.
  19. Hi telriv, Could you be more specific as to what should specifically be checked for when hooking up the DynaFlow linkage with an Edelbrock1406 or a non-period 4GG/AFB carb? I took my Riv out for an extended run last weekend, and while I don't press usually my luck by stomping on the 'GO' pedal of a 56 year-old car too often, it appears to run quite well and my nose is already sensing much reduced fuel vapors in my garage after such a run. Plus I may be getting (slightly) better MPG, although that's not a big priority for me as it's relegated to pleasure cruising and smaller runs. I'm also aware from this forum that its 20-gal tank typically means a 200-mile cruising range, with not much forgiveness.
  20. Jon wrote: "I know you posted that the engine is now strong and smooth with the clone; but would highly suggest that if the rebuild shop can figure out what they did incorrectly with the Rochester, you would be better off with it rebuilt than the clone and even a full refund!" Jon. Hi Jon: My experience of late, meaning the last 2-3 years as 4GCs are apparently getting thin on the ground, has been that once someone else has worked on them (and most rebuilders can tell, according to my experience), that they're considered "damaged goods" and no one wants to touch them. I'll hold on to the 4GC for sure, and yes, it would be good to find out what the problem was. As mentioned earlier in my ROA thread, when at first the rebuilt 4CG wasn't getting any fuel upon re-installation in my '63 Riv, the rebuilder said the 4GC was "over engineered" so he threw out the tiny springs below the floats (that's what he said, I didn't see them myself) and said it should be good to go. That's when all the sputtering and stalling began, and after a 2nd revisit with the carb installed he swore up and down that it wasn't the carb. So after two trips back there to make things right, I'm not confident he's going to make things any better. Still, I plan to let him know that the main issue was indeed the carb despite his protestations. TelRiv says: "The DynaFlow linkage needs to be hooked up to work properly. Throttle shafts could be swapped from an original carb. ALSO, the carb. top plate where the choke blade sits can be swapped for an original top plate so the air filter is pointing in the proper direction with the air cleaner tabs." I'll take the Riv out for a spin again but all seems to be in order. Using the factory air filter housing is not an issue but I'd like to be able to share some info with my shop if something with the DynaFlow linkage has to be done. I'm not having any drive-ability issues, but I also didn't hammer on the old girl as I drove it home. I was glad that it was pulling like a freight train on inclines and idling well in thicker traffic, which is the new norm in San Diego unless you pick your drive times carefully. RivNut Ed wrote: "It would probably okay to post a picture of the entire (1960 Electra) if the rest of it looks as nice as everything in this picture." I'd be glad to, but it was a 10-footer - very complete and mostly original except for a distant repaint in original colors, and was dead reliable and well cared for by a previous owner in Texas. I sold it in 2015 (to fund the '63 Riv, which to me is a landmark design) to a Finnish collector who owned an import/export business with a port in LA. He sent a local driver and flatbed to San Diego to inspect it and the buyer paid asking price on the spot. Hope he's enjoying it! During my seven-year stewardship it was accepted to the snooty La Jolla CA Concours some years back and drew a lot of interest, much to the chagrin of others. I'll dig out some pix if you want. Like the first-gen Riv, the '60 Electra was somethign else. Appreciate all your collective the input and continued education! Report post
  21. Thanks, Ed. I always thought that was the positions from all the Riview pix, etc. I knew about the alignment tabs but I guess with the new setup one could point the inlet tube to the right, as it was on my '60 Electra. (It's OK to post an Electra pix on the ROA forum, right?)
  22. I didn't know we had to do anything w/ that linkage. Isn't the Edelbrock basically a Carter design that they took over? RivNut's response up 7 messages in this thread indicated nothing was needed, but maybe that's for a swap between a 4GC and an original AFB.
  23. Latest update: The carb shop in LA let us know that the 4GC he had for rebuild failed the on-engine tests and he's still looking into why. So my mechanic suggested we try an Edelbrock 1406 w/ electric choke and now the Riv is running strong and smooth. Picked it up today - drove it on coastal roads and freeway and no issues at all. So... as mentioned I have to have a conversation with the shop that "rebuilt" my 4GC to see if we can come to some agreement on a refund or partial refund. Any suggestions on what's fair? I know some of you are in the repair business and time is $$, but I paid ~$450 plus to get a well-performing carb and that was not the case. BTW we used a small adapter so I could retain the original large red air cleaner housing. I always thought its air intake pointed toward the power steering pump but page 3-7 of the factory Chassis Manual is not exactly clear. It says "standard" 4 bbl air cleaners should have the air inlet tube positioned about 15 degrees to the right of the center line of the engine. I take that to mean passenger side. The text does mention "except Riviera engines" but it's not very clear. Thanks, glad to be nearing the end of this project.
  24. Thanks Jon and Ed. Good to know it's a direct replacement. I'm waiting on the 4GC but I still would like to eventually find an appropriate Carter AFB for my '63 without fear of inheriting someone else's potential issues. Is there a tin tag # or casting # that denotes a '63 or are they generally all the same from 19xx to 19xx on the Riv or a slightly earlier model? Thanks again. I'll keep everyone updated on any progress later this week.
  25. Latest update for those still following along: After eliminating any (or at least most) fuel tank and line issues by running a fuel hose from a 5-gallon container to the fuel pump inlet and still getting the same symptoms, I broke out my AAA Plus card yesterday and had the Riv flat-bedded to another shop that specializes in vintage car repair and is known for its electrical diagnostics. After a half-day of diagnostics, they concluded that the carb is still the culprit. Ignition system (including Pertronix), advance/timing, fuel pump and filter (both new), etc. all tested fine. He sourced another 4GC from a carb builder in LA who engine-tests all his carbs. The other option was getting an Edelbrock and then having to fabricate the linkages and get the massive Riviera air filter housing to fit properly. More news mid-next week. If it turns out that it was the first carb being rebuilt improperly or the rebuilder not noticing anything amiss or defective with the castings, I guess I have some options - the first one being a conversation with him regarding at least a partial refund. I've been back to him twice already - the first time when the carb was not getting any fuel whatsoever, and the second visit when I drove the car to his shop under hazardous conditions because of a 40 mph limit and uphill sputtering, and 5 1/2 hours later he was still insisting it wasn't in the carb. Thanks again to all who have offered suggestions, procedures, and encouragement! P.S. I think I asked but I can't recall if I received an answer: On a '63 Riv, does the Carter AFB require a different intake manifold and linkage setup than the 4GC?
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