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Everything posted by JanZverina

  1. I'll second that on Gordon. I ordered mine from him quite some time ago and they've been flawless. Gordon might also tell you they're even good for RHD models Down Under, if you've read about his recent adventures there. Rock on, Gordon! -Jan
  2. Thanks Kongaman. Have you had success with the aerosol for this particular application? Maybe 3m "super" adhesive will do the trick here in warmer San Diego. I'll keep your recommendation in mind. Kind regards --
  3. Thanks, Scott. I'll try the Stay-Put before it's banned here as well.
  4. Thanks all. I just checked into 3M 90 adhesive and naturally, it's no longer available in CA. Lacquer thinner is not far behind. I better stock up.
  5. Can anyone tell me what is the best adhesive to use for gluing the black vinyl inserts on the center stack/console of a '63? I've tried a few, mostly 3M products, the latest being the 3M 77 adhesive, and after a few weeks the edges start to lift. I've been careful to prep the surface with a prep solvent or mineral spirits, and nothing seems to help. I'm not sure if its the adhesive or the prep that's to blame. Or me, of course. Thanks!
  6. Thanks for the tutorial, jsgun. I've been looking for a 'Chapman' lock for some time for my '63, so this was the clue I needed. Unfortunately the first lock they sent me was defective - one could not push in the lock plunger even when the cable was perfectly straight. But they made good on it and sent me another one. And yes, drilling the firewall hole was lots of fun, especially make sure not to drill into the back of the brake booster. So a punch came in handy to mark the spot and confirm from the engine compartment side before drilling began. Here are some pix - I painted the bracket semi-gloss black to blend in a bit. Thanks again! (Sorry that the first one is sideways - is there a way to rotate them after they are posted?)
  7. I bought five new Mastercraft P235R/75R15 whitewall radial tires from Summit Racing for about $70 each, a LOT less than the new breed of "vintage" tire companies. They're quiet and track well, even with my semi-worn front end that's on my to-do list. The whitewall band is a bit thinner than what was stock for '63, but I like the look a lot better as my Riv originally came with the base-level wheel covers, which to me are a perfect match for Teal Mist w/white leather interior. Yes, the whitewalls look a bit yellow in the pix but one shot of Westley's 'Bleche White' and they're snow white again. I drive this Riv pretty often!
  8. Hi Kaber, One of the first things I did when I bought my '63 was to have the core replaced with the high-efficiency kind, which has smaller but more fins, with as fat a core as the original upper and lower tanks would take. I had it done at a radiator rebuilding shop here in San Diego for about $400 all in, IIRC. Looks stock for the most part but I also want reliability in warmer SoCal weather and any traffic congestion.
  9. Outstanding. If I only had the extra garage space, a Sport Wagon like that would be there.
  10. That's a true find and a stunning design - looking forward to your progress. Not too long ago someone told me that the upward swept rear quarter glass at the C-pillar is known today as the 'Hofmeister Kink' for all you trivia fans. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hofmeister_kink
  11. Nice car, Hunter. Great color combo. Do you have a good shot of the instrument panel? I'd like to see the differences between that and the '63 Riviera.
  12. Hi Ed, Please tell me where these go on a '63 Riv, and how many and what size I should choose. I have a good Ace near me and more than once they've had exactly what I needed for my guitar collection, as well as for my Riv and Jag.
  13. Ed wrote: "Seems a lot more expensive than having yours recovered." I asked Just Dashes in Van Nuys CA for an estimate some time ago and they were in the neighborhood of $700, but that included the foam core. I'm sure there are locals around who can do it for quite a bit less. My temporary fix was the grained plastic dash overlay also offered by OPGI, but IIRC I found it for less by going straight to the source. Yes, this is a new item from OPGI that straddles the difference. I too would be interested in some initial reviews before parting with the required $$.
  14. Hi Loren, I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable side to side. On page 12-12 of the factory chassis service manual they are described as Lamp Assembly - Turn Signal, but as you know they sit below what's called the Grille & Lens Assembly in that schematic and are solid metal. I just completed restoring my parking lights after finding some good original outer lenses that go behind that upper grille assembly. Both the outer "grille" over the parking/turn signal lights as well the outer and inner clear lenses behind them are interchangeable side to side. What's NOT interchangeable are the housing assemblies in which the bulbs sit. Those are left and right designs and marked on one edge where the screws attach them. Hope this helps.
  15. Hi Mike, The year may make a difference but the one in my '63 maintains vacuum and will release the trunk latch days or even many weeks after the engine was last started. In fact I never thought to see if it wouldn't work after an extended time.
  16. Thanks, Ed, for the Mustang video. Tonight I found that it's actually simpler than that. I removed one of the large bulb housings from my '63 Riviera parking light assembly, and all one really needs to do is to lubricate the wire or wires that go into the back of the upper and lower lamp contacts. That will make the spring contact(s) "spring" forward and create a good positive contact again. No need to splice in a new spring and contact assembly. True, 54 years of crud and corrosion from the front fender well exposure will stop those spring contacts from functioning the way they should, but splicing in a new contact should be done only after one works on cleaning and freeing up the wire's movement thought the rear socket boots. Thanks for the video, which led me to the workaround! Kind regards, -Jan
  17. Hi Ed, The link to your video seems to be no longer valid for some reason. http://forums.aaca.org/f177/renewing-tun-lamp-sockets-372153.html Thanks for the housing photos. My housings have the two bulb design as the one on the left (no smaller bulb above the large one in the upper section.) As luck would have it, I managed to free up the contact springs in all the sockets - with the exception of the last one I tried (naturally), which is the single-contact socket for the 67/67A. That contact appears to be hindered from springing forward by the surrounding brass ring so I'm slowly working it using some penetrating solvent.
  18. Thanks, Ed. the 67s are available in clear only at Bulbtown, while one other place has the 67As, but has a $50 minimum order - that's a lot of bulbs! Some googling shows that one can use stained glass paint to tint a clear bulb, but I can't imagine the coating will last long due to heat. But worth looking into. -Jan
  19. Thanks again, Ed! Sounds like another fun job ahead. I'm having trouble finding the 67Ambers online, and the 1034As look to be superseded by the 1157As. I once told my wife that a good hobby is akin to having a passion for something, but I'm not sure she believes me when I come in from the garage after a couple hours or more of being "tackling challenges." This weekend I finally got the Riv running again after I sent back the rebuilt Rochester carb for a check, since it wasn't coming down to curb idle. The cause was a bent linkage in shipping it back to me the first time. Plus, an exchange on a defective AC Delco voltage regulator, the first one which would make my Amp light glow as if it had 1,000 watts. So all's well in the engine room again. Now on to switching out the front parking lamp lenses and eventually sorting some loud rattles in the right door after going through the 'outer door skin removal' process. Probably time for the full vent window weatherstrip and felt kit. I've had good luck with Rubber the Right Way previously.
  20. Thanks, Ed. I'll look into that. Does one remove the socket(s) from the rear of the assembly like the tail lamps, or is it better to replace the bulbs by removing the trim and lenses from the front? If the former, do you recommend using some penetrant first?
  21. The factory shop manual specs call for say 1034A and 67A. Three questions: Looking at some eBay pix of the front housings, am I right in thinking that's one 1034A and two smaller 67As per side? Looking at the same pix, the 1034A is orange and the 67As are clear. Is that correct? I thought the A means orange, right? I can order the 1034As, but do the 67As go by a different number these days? Thanks!
  22. Someone recently told me (I don't think it was on this forum) that the front outer parking lenses on the 63-64 Riv are interchangeable side-to-side, but in looking at the eBay ads I see they are marked LH and RH. Can someone confirm that they are not interchangeable? Thanks,
  23. Hi John, See https://mrgusa.com/ Just a possibility... I've used them for smaller plastic chrome plated parts and they've always delivered a great result.
  24. Hi offdensen, I had my pump rebuilt recently by Lares Corp. and upon asking the same question, they said their seals will handle any kind of good quality P/S or ATF fluid offered today. I'm using non-synthetic Dex-Merc ATF and everything seems to be fine.
  25. Would any of you kind souls have a spare original 1963-64 outer front parking lamp lens to sell, not NOS but in pretty good condition? I scored a good one plus the inner lens on eBay that polished up very well, no crazing or cracks included! Now I just need another one. If it comes with an inner lens as a combo deal, that's fine too. Thanks in advance.
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