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Everything posted by JanZverina

  1. Does anyone familiar with greater San Diego know of a reputable carburetor rebuilder in the area? I'm ordering a rebuild kit from Jon at the Carb Shop in Eldon MO but unfortunately they no longer do the rebuilds and just offer the kits. Thanks in advance,
  2. Thanks all for your advice and expertise -- very much appreciated! I had some time to fiddle around with with this yesterday and it looks like it was a stuck float. I poured in some fresh gas and gently tapped the rear of the carb on both sides. Ran it on the fast cam and let it fully warm up to normal idle. I also pinched the inlet hose a couple times. It took longer than I expected for the stutter to happen but I could feel the fuel surge. I'll keep an eye on things going forward. Thanks again!
  3. Last weekend (June 1/2) I took my '63 out for a spin after letting it sit about 4 weeks (bad me), and it had trouble keeping the choke operating in the cold position, where the front butterfly is open about 1/8th inch or so (this is San Diego). It was also hard starting after a partial refuel and running some errands. Yesterday it started on the fast idle cam fairly quickly but a n initial check under the hood showed the carb and surrounding manifold to be pretty wet with gas. I shut it down and let it sit for a few hours before mopping things up. No fuel line/hose leaks that I could see, and I'm also going to check if the plugs were fouled. The carb was completely rebuilt about two years ago by a rebuilding service recommended by BCA and has worked fine other than needing a small needle adjustment early on. Any ideas as to what I should start checking for from any experts out there? Thanks in advance.
  4. Hi Rich, You'll note from the engine pix I recently sent you of my Teal Mist/White Leather '63 that I upgraded to a 1967 style dual master cylinder but kept the drum brakes all around. It's not on your side of the country, but I had the factory booster rebuilt by Booster Dewey at https://www.yelp.com/biz/power-brake-booster-exchange-portland They are highly recommended. It's important that you have him send you that correct square cut O-ring as mentioned earlier in this thread.
  5. https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/mastercraft-tires?N=4294879428 Pick the size closest to what you want. I have them on my '63 Riv and they're just fine and worth every dollar. Order 5 and be done with it.
  6. Does anyone know if the silver-only tri-shield centers for the standard wheel covers are being reproduced, or if anyone has a good set of four for sale? Thanks!
  7. Hi Terry, Please post this in the Riviera Owners Association section of this forum. You'll get some immediate answers.
  8. Some interesting comments... https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2019/02/buy-drive-burn-classic-luxury-coupes-from-1963/#more-1659682
  9. I had the same issue with a new Delco voltage regulator so it isn't always corrosion.
  10. I think we may have covered all the major food and drink groups! Anyone know of a Riviera brand refrigerator or cupboard?
  11. Being a first-gen Riv owner I don't usually weigh in on later Rivs, but kudos to Vanguard for the video and all the photos. No doubt it's a nice example. But as far as I know, GS or not, the 71s and 72s are those that typically bring the higher $$ in such condition (not $80K). I compare this to cars in my other vintage world, where the Series 1 E-type Jaguars trump the Series 2 and Series 3 models all day long. IMO, someone poured a lots of $$ into getting Riv up to this level, and is now seeking a return on his/her investment, which is their prerogative. But there's a a saying in the vintage car world that says one did not over pay - they just bought too early. Still, at $80K, that wait from "too early" may be a long time in coming . AFAIK, the 73's fat front bumper is a negative given the much more pure lines of the 71 or 72. Just my 2c.
  12. Thanks, Ed. That's what I don't quite understand unless it has to do w/ride height, which has to be nominal given the delta in the two PSI levels.
  13. For a novice to the vintage car world, the best advice I can offer is this: BRING ALONG A GOOD MECHANIC AND MAKE IT WORTH HIS TIME & EFFORT. Have him also check for rust and corrosion. If you pay him $100-$200 for his time but he says look at another car, consider that a great investment. You just saved yourself thousands, if not more!
  14. Let me throw out one more question to all of you gents. Since I lowered my tire pressure to 24 psi from ~32 with good results in rise, would that drop affect the front end alignment? My alignment guy offers a no-charge follow-up so that's not an issue. As JohnRex suggests, should I also have him add some positive caster with the radials now set at 24 psi? I apologize for not being fully up to snuff on this subject.
  15. Hi jframe, I'll leave it to the members who are more knowledgeable than myself to respond, but as far as I know, lower than recommended PSIs on radials will shorten tire life. But with most vintage cars, it's not miles but time that dictates the life of a tire.
  16. Thanks everyone for your input - all very interesting and full of useful tips. This weekend I lowered the TPs to 24 PSI front/ 26 rear. It made a pretty substantial difference in both ride smoothness and whatever steering feel large cars had half a century ago. I guess I always thought radial tires should be run at higher PSIs. Rodney, I can believe that new seat cushions definitely factor into the rise/comfort equation. That's on my list. The next big project is door skins off to chase some window rattles and make sure everything is good before I install a full rubber kit for the front and rear side glass including vent window seals, fuzzies, and everything else. Got them from Rubber the Right Way which is only a couple miles for me, but as mentioned elsewhere on this forum they also source from Steele and SoffSeal. Will take some pix when that project gets underway. Thanks again - the participation on this forum is outstanding!
  17. All good advice - thanks! Will report back after the weekend. Winston, thorough warm-ups are routine for me with both the Riv and my E-type. That's been the key to the exhaust systems lasting a long time on both cars - and protecting my wallet from a severe fiscal shock!
  18. Winston: Drill the hole at the lowest point near an end flange, right? Are we talking a tiny hole? Tom: Re lower PSI - a Post-it is already on my console before a test drive this weekend. Should I take down the rear tires to the same level as well? I have air shocks in the rear just to get a 3/8 to 1/2 inch of lift. Of course I have to add air every two weeks or so but that's no problem given the checklist we go through for any vintage car. Many thanks to all of you!
  19. "The jarring on potholes, tars strips, and almost any road imperfection may be due to the new springs." Thanks for your response, Bernie - lots of good info (and wisdom) to be sure. But I did not have new springs installed. The steering assist feels just like it did before so no dramatic change there. My first step will be to lower the PSI in the tires. I normally keep them about 34-35 so I'll dial them back and see how things feel from there.
  20. Thanks KongaMan and JZ Riv, I didn't mean to imply that all the other front end parts were original. The odo shows about 90,000 miles and maybe it's 190K for all I know. When I bought the car in 2013, it was from the daughter of the original owner, and the service history file she provided was not that complete except for one thing: annual receipts from Midas Muffler that showed various muffler system components being replaced every spring, most likely at the insistence of her father having them honor their lifetime warranty. My mechanic really inspected the ball joints carefully leveraging them for any signs of play (I assisted him with the full inspection) but you both have a good point with the control arm bushings. That may be for another day.
  21. This week I picked up my ’63 Riviera from a trusted alignment specialist in the San Diego area after having several front end items replaced after a thorough inspection in which I participated: my original center link was rebuilt by Rare Parts -- sorry Kongaman, no old parts were returned despite my mechanic saying he did ask.) Also replaced were the front strut bushings and idler arm (new or NOS Moog parts); and new Monroe shocks (nothing fancy) were installed. Other than repacking the wheel bearings/replacing the WB seals, and snugging up the steering box, all other front suspension/steering components were declared in good health, as were the body bushings. The front end was of course aligned. I also replaced the four track bar bushings in the rear, which were not in that bad shape to begin with. Every mechanic who sees this car is amazed at its rust-free condition underneath and throughout. Does the car ride and steer better? Yes, there’s a noticeable improvement but hitting a pothole (yes, we have one or two out here) or an uneven manhole cover is still more of a jarring experience than I would think. I’m sure a few of you have owned your ‘63s since new, and I know that like most cars of that era, steering and overall handling was always pretty vague at best for a car of this size. Which leads me to my question in the caption. What I’m not asking is for ways to firm up the ride handling or steering response -- I’m aware of the numerous discussions on better shocks, springs, and steering boxes but I want my car to ride like it did back in the day, even though I do have radials on it. My question simply has to do with isolation from harsher road surfaces. I also realize that body insulation/road isolation have come a long way in 55 years. But was the Riv known for a “magic carpet ride” when it first came out? Thanks in advance!
  22. Hi Adrian, Jason is right, IMO, and not only because we JZs stick together. I did a forum post a week or so ago about replacing the centerlink on my '63. My mechanic had me in the car up on the lift moving the steering wheel side to side as fast and sharply as I could while he was down there inspecting things. He also had me do the same routine with the engine on (brave soul!). Rare Parts was recommended by a few regulars on this forum -- but RP first needs your core or a usable one to rebuild if you decide to do so. I should be getting my CL back later this week or early next (fingers crossed) so I'll keep any interested forum members posted. Idler arm and front strut bushings are also being replaced so I think I got off easy, all things considered.
  23. Thanks all for your advice and input, I'm going with Rare Parts - sent my worn center link this week for rebuild. I managed to easily source other parts needed: front strut bushings, idler arm, wheel bearing seals, and rear track bar bushings. Will keep you posted on the progress.
  24. Hello ROA members, I'm (finally) tackling the front end on my '63 Riv and am in need of a center link. Being a good member I searched the forum and see that they are available as rebuilds/refurbished only. Can anyone recommend a good source? I see Rare Parts Inc. does this as well as Summit. Any recommendations? Does anyone have a known good one to part with for a fair price? Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
  25. Yes, that was the first thing I noticed, which set off some caution signals. The paint was also a bit thick but looked OK otherwise. There also was a black '73 with a fairly nice under hood presentation and it sounded very snarly as it was being parked, but the rear window surrounds and fits were really off big-time.
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