Ronnie

I disagree. Once the accumulator is full the fluid has no place to go, pressure is built in the system, and the pressure switch (if working properly) will shut off the pump. I know this from experience. I had a ruptured diaphragm in my old accumulator. The pump would run when the key was turned on until pressure was built. The lights on the dash would go out and the pump would stop. As soon as the brake pedal was pressed the lights would come back on and the pump would start. Then the whole process would start over.

Thanks! If you (or anyone for that matter) stumble across tutorials, tips or articles about the Reatta and you would like to see them on my website, please let me know.

I would check the sway bar end link rubber bump stops. They can cause noise, rattles and possibly a poor ride when the rubber has deteriorated. Changing mine to polyurethane bump stops made huge difference in ride and handling. Here are the instructions for replacement on a '88-'89 model. IF you have a '90-'91 model they are different.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rawja</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Maybe I'm missing something here, but the pump running continuously could be any number of things, like a bad pressure switch, a stuck relay, etc. I would think a bad accumulator would reach the pressure required, but would need to be refilled more often to maintain pressure. </div></div> I agree with your assessment. The accumulator would not make the pump run continuously.

What car are the 16" chrome wheels off of?

Hi Luis' Welcome to the forum! I have not read much about the Series II SC swap. I'm wouldn't doubt it has been done. The series I SC engine and the series II SC engine are similar but not identical. I would start here reading about the series I SC swap and then build on that knowledge to find out how to do the series II swap. From what I have read, you shouldn't have to do much to get it to fit, nor should you need to fabricate a lot of parts. You will find the problems you will have will be more electrical modifications and possibly fuel delivery problems . Others here will jump in and tell you more.

Barney, It appears the caliper unit is almost identical to the caliper used on an '88 Fiero that I once owned. The main difference in the two are the Fiero uses a lever to pull the cable and the Reatta uses a pedal. I prefer the lever. It is common knowledge in the Fiero community that if you do not use the emergency brake routinely that the rear calipers do not get adjusted. It also is widely known that the cable and adjuster will freeze up if not used.

The bottom cabinet is still available and is a great deal at $139 if you need it. The link is still good at least. I didn't try to purchase one.

Thanks guys. Glad you like the website.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don't be afraid to pull your brakes apart and carefully inspect all the moving parts. They are usually simple to understand, and you can take lots of pictures along the way. Don't do both sides at the same time, use the opposite side as a reference. </div></div> Here is a photo of that "simple" system you are referring to. Maybe you should rethink it being simple.

Advance Auto Parts for that. Cheap GMPartsDirect http://gmpartsdirect.com/ for the expensive stuff.

Hi Wayne, Welcome to the forum!! You have came to the right place to find answers to repairing your Reatta. First thing you are going to have to do is find what is making the clicking sound when the problem occurs. When you are trying to start the car and hear the sound, do you have your foot on the brake pedal? Do you have any brake lights on the dash that do not go our in about 15-20 seconds? Let us know more details and I'm sure someone here will help you out.

If he stripped the spark plug hole he may still be sitting in the corner of the garage staring down at the floor. I stripped one on a Monte Carlo once and I had to remove half the stuff in the engine compartment to get room to run a tap in the hole to re-tap the threads. It looks like it would be harder on the rear side of the Reatta.

You can also find an online version of the FSM at Reatta.net. Registration is required but well worth it. I use it more than my paper version. I carry a paper version in case I break down away from home.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: myantis</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I haven't seen the car yet--plan to over the week-end. So, are these little beauties collector cars or are they going to be some day? Millie </div></div> Welcome to the forum!! We always like to see new photos of Reattas. Do you have some you could post? Most people here on the forum treat our Reattas like they are collector cars. Weather they are or not could be debated I guess but I feel they are. I consider almost any car that is scarce like the Reatta and 20 years old to be collectible.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GuitarVince</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi, I am brand new to the club, just bought an '89 without seeing it. I sat in one when I was 20 (19 long years ago), and was in love, but broke. Will a 6'2" 220 lbs. (ok 245, but working at it), guy fit ok? It has 45k miles, but has been sitting for a couple of years. My GM certified (read certifiable) brother-in-law checked it out, said the brakes were good, and it ran and drove fine. Any concerns driving it 150 miles home? What tools would you take? Thanks a ton. You guys have a great forum here. Vince </div></div> Vince, Welcome to the forum. You will fit just fine in the car. I am 6'1" tall and weigh 270. I feel I have plenty of room in my Reatta. It is the most comfortable sports car I have owned. It is also the largest. You will like it. Sounds like a really nice car. With that low mileage, I would check the brakes and tires closely, get a cell phone and a pocket full of money and head out on your trip. I don't think you have anything at all to worry about driving 150 miles. If you take a tool kit, be sure it has an 18mm socket or wrench in case you need to change the belt. Some small kits skip from 17mm to 19mm and don't include the 18mm size.

On my '88 model it is behind the glove compartment which is easy to remove.

Has Barney Eaton's account been hijacked? This doesn't sound like a reply by Barney to such a serious issue as smoke coming out of the dash.

F14, I applaud you for your hands on approach to getting things done. I don't want to be critical of what you are doing. I have been a mechanic/machinist and welder for many years. I don't really consider myself a good welder now that I have not done much welding for a number of years. To be a good welder takes lots of training, practice and experience along with a good knowledge of metallurgy. There is more to it than mearly melting metal. Please take my advice and hire a certified, or at the very least, an experienced welder to do the welding in critical areas on your car. It could be the best money you spend on your car. It could also save your life. Thanks for keeping us posted on the progress of your project.

Welcome to the forum! You have come to the right place to get help with your Reatta. The first thing you should do for your Reatta is go by Reatta.net and take the brake test that can be found there. Report the results here and we will help if you have problems. The Reatta has a unique brake system that can be problematic if not kept in good condition. You also need to flush the brake system. (Also found on Reatta.net.) The oil pressure sender is a common problem and replacing almost always cures your problem. Referring to the transmission you say "when I down shift".. Is there a problem when the transmission shifts on its own?

My first impression when looking at it is that it is a Salt Flats racer. I guess the wheels look to me like the full moon hubcaps some of the Salt Flats racers once used. I think I like the looks of the stock Reatta better.

Let me know if you need more photos.

If the SPARK PLUG moves any at all I would keep moving it back and forth while spraying it with a penetrating oil every once in a while. Do not keep backing out the plug with brute force or you will damage the threads. Try some "Aero Kroil" penetrating oil if you can find it locally. It is one of the best.

Does it turn any at all?

I hate to admit it but I'm still confused. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: reattasnohio</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It is on the back side of the oil pan and that is where my starter wires run from. </div></div>What are you referring to when you say "it"? The wire hanging down? Are you saying your starter wires come from the rear of the oil pan to the front of the oil pan where the starter is located? I assume your '91 has the starter located on the side of the engine nearest the radiator? <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I also have an 88 and 89 and they are like the pictures that were posted. I never thought to look under them since I am working under the 91 and that's how this caught my attention.</div></div> I understood you to say your '91 was like the wires shown in the photo. Sorry about the dumb questions. I have never had the opportunity to look under a '91 model and maybe that is why I don't understand clearly what you are saying.