Ronnie

Take the brake test and report the results here. We can help.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Reatta send me an email and I will send you a copy of my write-up in the last Reatta newsletter on redoing the headliner.... send to Barney@texas.net </div></div> Barney, If you would like to make the write-up available for public access I would be happy to add it to my web site.

Is this the car you put so much time and effort into trying convert to a 6 speed and Supercharged engine?

He is referring to the rod that prevents the glove box from falling open too fast. I need one on my Reatta glove box.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought new accumulators came with the O-ring fitted. Has something changed ? </div></div> You are probably correct. When I posted the part numbers and stated you should replace the o-ring, I was looking at my invoice from GMPartsDirect.com. For some reason I ordered the O-ring separately. Maybe no one had told me that the O-ring came with the accumulator.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Actually, I more angry at the driver who hit the car and drove off. The Reatta is a pretty hefty car. I hope whatever the SOB was driving is torn up! My guess is that the fool did not have any insurance, or money for that matter. Texas requires everyone to have insurance, but I would say many people don't have any coverage in force.</div></div> Howard, Again I'm sorry for your car being damaged. I too would be angry at the driver that left the scene of the accident. Don't let your anger for the hit and run driver make you have much compassion for the owner of the shop. He is business to make a profit. If he was a friend or neighbor with a back yard garage I would say "yeah cut him some slack" but that doesn't appear to be the case. He didn't cut you any slack when he quoted you the excessively high price for rebuilding the engine. I believe he was trying to take advantage of you. I don't know about Texas but here in Tennessee all drivers are required to have insurance. It is a law that has good intentions but still allows people to drive who have no insurance until they have an accident or get stopped for some other reason. There is not a requirement to have insurance in order to get a drivers license or to register a car and get tags. I think insurance should be required before you could do either.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's OK. I have seen pictures of signs with high gas prices already. lol </div></div> I agree with Dave. Please don't post pictures of the signs here. I never look at the signs until the minute I need to buy gas. There is no reason to get depressed any sooner than I have to about something I can't control.

Yes it was in the Electrical Diagnosis section of the FSM.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone have a pinout/wire diagram for the 89' ECM. </div></div> Pinout chart for '89 can be found here

I read too fast. I didn't see where you said you put in a new battery.. I believe Dave is on the right track.

Fully charge the battery and test again. If you still have problems clean the CRT connections on the back. Click here for removal instructions. It's an easy job.

How is the code written? Can it be viewed with a laptop with the correct software? Is the ECM programmed in a low level code like assembly language or is it a high level code like C or Basic? OR is it plain old ladder logic like a PLC would use? I guess I'm asking... how do you read the ECM program?

Have you entered diagnostics mode and checked for ECM codes? What year is your car?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I came across one post which said in general Timkin made better roller bearing and SKF had better roller bearings. Did you see any evidence of that? </div></div> Mike, I assume you meant <span style="font-weight: bold">roller</span> bearings as compared to <span style="font-weight: bold">ball</span> bearings? Anyway, our test department always recommended Timken as a first choice in critical, high stress applications. They not only tested random samples of bearings in the test lab, but analyzed oil samples that were taken on a monthly basis from gear boxes to determine how bearings in use were holding up. They thought that Timken made better bearings. I have bookmarked the links you provided and will add them to the website soon. <span style="font-weight: bold">Anyone know if the write ups cover all years of Reattas?</span> I noticed the write ups were for an '88 model.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was saying I tested to see what polarity the terminals were before I jumpered them, one was negative and the other did nothing so I assumed it was only supposed to have power current flow when the A/C AUTO was engaged. Since the compressor disengaged before I got to jump out and check it when I got around to it, it still wouldnt read as positive or negative. </div></div> I don't mean to sound negative but I'm not sure I understand what you are trying to tell me. I hope you have a positive outcome with your A/C problem.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The only thing that confused me about it was the very next step which talked about connecting a test light from the jumper to battery ground</div></div> That test is to see if there is power coming to the pressure switch from the A/C controls. I assumed you had already done that by reading one of your previous posts.

The Test Department where I worked did extensive testing of all major brands of bearings. Timken always came out on top with superior ratings. The Test Department attributed it to Timken making their own metal, that was used in their bearings, giving them better quality control where some of the others outsourced their metal. Timken, Hayatt, Brenco and SKF were the only bearings the Test Department approved for use. SKF usually came in last in the tests. Some of the bearings tested were precision bearings 10" in diameter and costing thousands of dollars. They were used in the headstock of large lathes. We only installed Timken bearings in them.

It is a SWITCH. It interrupts the supply of power to a device. There is no need to worry about polarity. Put away your test light and get out your jumper wire. As was stated before, put a jumper in place of the switch to complete the circuit to the compressor. Put the A/C controls in auto on the lowest temperature setting. If the compressor runs you either are low on freon or you have a bad pressure switch. To know for sure which is causing the problem you will need a set of A/C gauges to check for proper pressure. If the compressor does not run you have problems other than freon pressure.

Please let us know if the accumulator corrects your problem.

Thanks Barney. I'm glad you like the site. I add information to it every day. If you would write up instructions for changing the Power Module I will add it to the website. I have not yet changed one myself.

Time for a new accumulator. You can get one from GMPartsDirect.com for $112.00 plus shipping. Part #25528382. Install a new O-ring on it also. Part #25528383. Check part numbers before purchasing. They could change. Click here for instructions on how to change. It's simple as changing a light bulb.

Is it called the power module?

Nic, You are going to the wrong site. Go to ReattaOwner.com > Information > Tips, Upgrades and Tutorials > Body - Exterior. Read the article "Door Weather Stripping Repair" Bookmark the site. It is the parent site of ReattasForSale.com Thanks

Batman's daily driver?

Dave, If you ever contemplated changing to 134A, while you have the system down to replace the condenser, would be the time to do it. There shouldn't be much additional cost involved to change to 134A while you have the condenser off. If you have to add freon in the future the price difference between the R-12 and 134A would certainly offset the extra cost of changing over to 134A.