Tom_Overfield

I just picked up a 41 zephyr that wouldn't shift into 1st, the floor hump was already removed and I discovered the emergency brake cable was directly below the shift lever and preventing the shift arm from moving down to engage 1st. just another possibility. Tom

If is the dies are the ones I am thinking of, they are original and correct in all respects. I,ll buy a set for the 41 three window I might get to before I check out.

Rather late in the reply, but Earle Brown used to carry those fender washers.

Vern,,make sure you are using the proper battery cables for a 6 volt system, they are larger in diamater then any 12 cables out there. Next check all of your grounds, make sure there is no paint between a ground cable and the connection. Check the starter when it mounts, my starter had paint on it and all of it needed to be sanded off where the started bolted to the engine,,same with the engine mounting point for the starter, that needs to be shiny clean as well. With the mentioned problems I had, it acted very similar to your issue. Cables have to be huge,,,all connections clean, as long as your starter is good,,it should spin it over just fine. The added burden of installing the plugs and resulting compression will slow it down indeed, but it doesnt have to turn over very fast to start. Keep us posted on how it turns out and what you found. Tom

Look in the sources section, several vendors there that would no doubt have a fan belt with the original type markings. Champion H-10s were indeed the original plugs and H-10C's are still available.

I believe one can get away with a good fuel stabilizer for the time period involved along with a good battery tender to maintain the battery. Much further than that though, I would for sure give consideration to draining the tank. I would for NOT run the engine just to hear it during the off months. That will do nothing but put moisture in the exhaust system as well as other places you don't want it to be. I have been storing several of my cars during the winter months for years (heated and unheated garages in N/E Ohio) and this is all I do to them. They all start right up come spring, no issues at all. Tom

Paul,,,looks like you have the sequence right for removing and installing the frame insulators, pretty straight forward actually. To move that rear spring there are several way to accomplish it, I used a "porta-power" unit between the left and right side of the spring and just pumped it enough to get the shackle bolts out. Each end of the porta power had wedge shaped parts so it worked perfect. Tom

ah HA!! it worked,,,the cut and paste that is, I can tell you that all of these cars were a slight bit different when built and the top will probably not fit perfectly as delivered, however a good upholstery shop can no doubt correct any slight fit issues. Tom

[TABLE=class: panel-layout, width: 100%] <tbody>[TR] [TD=align: right][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [TABLE] <tbody>[TR] [TD] [TABLE] <tbody>[TR] [TD=width: 100%, align: center] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [TD=width: 5] [/TD] [TD=width: 75%] [h=1]1940-8 LINCOLN & CONTINENTAL CONVERTIBLE TOP KIT- NEW[/h] Price: $800.00 This item is in stock <form name="cartadd" method="POST" action="/servlet/Cart" style="margin:0px;padding:0px"> [TABLE] <tbody>[TR] [TD] Quantity: <input name="qty" value="1" size="3" type="text"> [/TD] [TD=width: 100%] [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD=width: 100%] [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] </form> [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=colspan: 3] Brief Description Detailed Description Specifications MADE TO ORDER. Stayfast. Over 30 years of <nobr>selling</nobr> & installing tops on Lincoln Zephyrs & Continentals. <nobr>Correct</nobr> stitching. NO SEAM AT REAR BOW... Price <nobr>includes</nobr> matching pads. <nobr>Window</nobr> & straps available, but NOT included in price... Worldwide shipping available. Email country & postal code for <nobr>shipping quote</nobr>... ****KLASSKOLLECTION EBAY... [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD][/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD]E-mail a friend about this item. [/TD] [/TR] </tbody>[/TABLE]

Mike, unless I missed something on that company's web site, I didn't see a listing for a 41 Continental top. Try this place, I have not had any dealings with them, but perhaps some others on this forum have, they do list a 41 Continental top in Stayfast material for $800.00. If you go to the web site listed, left column, click on Lincoln Parts and you will see the listing for the top and price. Hopefully this helps, I do know that at one time they also had an interior kit available. Kepich Exhaust, 465 Liberty Church Rd. Mocksville, NC 27028 336-492-5509 www.kepichexaust.com Tom

My 41 Continental, body #18 had the gold macoid finish on the interior parts however nothing was left of it on the instrument bezels. There was no mention of the gold or chrome interior finish on the production card. Tom

I'm all in Keith Tom

Ron, you might also remove the bracket that holds the spare tire, I found my original Darian Blue Poly paint under that bracket in perfect condition. Tom

I feel your pain Larry, my car also had that issue. All I did was take some 18 gauge, put it in a vise and carefully started bending it over a little at a time, then moved it up a bit and bent it a bit more, you would have to do this several times to get a rounded edge rather than a sharp bend so it matches the original contour. Then you cut out the bad piece and weld in the new. If you have the rusted out area on the lower left or right edge where is is curved, you do it pretty much the same way however unless you have a shrinker/ stretcher, you will have to just cut small pie shaped pieces out of your straight piece then bend it to shape. It only has to be close to the original contour to allow the rubber seal to seat in place, once the seal is glued in, you won't see it anyway. Here are a couple of photos of a piece I made for John Murphy to repair a 41 dash that someone had hacked. It started out as I described, however I had a shrinker/stretcher to make the part curve to fit the curved part of the dash. Tom

So, I am watching a TV show last evening called Fast and Loud, and the star of the show stopped by a guys house to see if a 39 Zephyr 3 window in the drive was for sale. They talk about the Zephyr 3 windows for a bit and then the TV screen goes to a still of a red 3 window with a guy in it that looks very similar to one of our members. Cecil?? is that you?? Tom

The tops on 41 and 42 Lincoln, Ford and Mercury were all electric in nature as John mentioned and they all used the same gearboxs and electric motors. The differences were in the length of that special thick threaded shaft and the clevises that rode up and down the shaft and connected to the top pieces. The gearboxes are very difficult to find, the internal nut that rides up and down that shaft ever more diffficult. The clevises that hold the internal nut can be made without to much difficulty. The internal nuts on my original clevises were destroyed when plated years ago and I looked for several years to no avail for the original nuts. So here was my solution at the time. I got online and ordered two lengths of acme threaded rod with as course of a thread as possible, though was finer than the original rod threads by a ton. I also ordered two large diameter nuts to fit those threads. The upholstry shop I used for my top then sent my gearboxes out to a small machine shop they use and they swaped out the original acme thread rod with the new ones, then fitted the nuts inside the clevises. It would have no doubt worked just fine, slow, but at least it would have worked. I kept looking on e-bay and finally found two Ford clevises with the internal nuts I needed, so in the next few months, as I finish assembling my car I will swap out the threaded shafts and nuts and go back to the original set up. Other than watching e-bay daily and haunting the Ford/ Mercury and Lincoln forums, I cannot offer much in the way of encouragement in locating these parts, but I found what I needed finally, so all hope is not totally lost. There is also a place in Florida that offers a hydraulic kit to convert the electric setup to hydraulic. Northern Tool also lists several different sizes of electric actuators that could probably be made to work as well, they are 12 volt but that can be dealt with without too much trouble. I will try and attach a few photos so at least you can see what you are looking for. Tom

If I had to start removing clothing for all the help Dee Peecher has supplied, well,,let just say it wouldn't be pretty. Tom

To remove the window cranks, press in on the door panel behind the crank and you will find a spring loaded bezel. Press that in and you will find a small pin holding the window cranks in place on the shaft. Using a small pin punch and while holding the spring loaded bezel in, tap that pin out and the crank will come right off. You will need to remove the chrome/macoid coated bezel around the interior push button,,,press in on that bezel and twist, it should come off once you twist to release it. Once you get the screws out,,,the door clips released, lift up on the door panel to remove. The outside door button is removed by loosening the set screw found on the back edge of the door oposite the push buttom. Look for a 1/4 inch hole on the back door edge and using a bright light you will see the set screw. If it is a slotted set screw like mine were, use a lot of penetrating oil and tap the screwdriver handle gently with a small hammer while you turn it and hope it comes out. I broke half of the head off of one of my set screws and reverted to lots of not nice words hoping that would convince it to come out on its own, that didnt work. The door lock, opener etc are easily accessed now and the repairs needed, probably more of a cleaning and lubrication issue than anything else, can be made. Tom

Hey Jeff, I am finally getting back to normal, well normal for me anyway. I actually was in the garage this past week, moving stuff around and contemplating putting the V-12 back in it's proper place. As soon as I get motivated, it shouldn't take long at all for the first test drive. Tom

Lookin good Jim,,,real nice. Tom

double what has been said here about the battery cables, a 12 volt cable will NOT start the car under heavy load conditions. Go the the vendors section, Narraganset Restoration, and you can order the proper cables from them. Also make sure your connections are spotless clean and tight and as also stated, remove the starter and make sure the mounting area is clean and dry. I had the exact same problem with my V-12 and once I put on the original cables, problem solved. Tom

Look in the sources section here. There are at least two vendors that have what you need. Prices are on an exchance basis. Tom

Not much good for anything you sit on for that matter.

if they were not polished originally, the best way to do it would to remove the heads and have them glass beaded by someone who knows what they are doing. I know your are trying to avoid this but that would bring them back like new. Or, fine steel wool and lots of time might work, but not near as well. Tom

That is exactly the name of the company that did my tank and would would highly recommend them to anyone. I am sort of "back in the saddle" and it amazing how better I feel each day. Now to get these 43 staples out and i will be on my way to getting back into action. Tom