1965rivgs

Hi Pat, May I ask where you purchased the new mount? TIA, Tom Mooney

Use the force of the spring to help seperate the ball joint (be sure to leave the castle nut on the end) then cut the springs in half with a torch. You`re not going to reinstall the old springs after all that labor, right? Tom Mooney

All the dual quad `64`s I have owned and/or inspected had a 3:07 posi under them. That is not to say other options were not available but in my experience that seems to be the typically installed diff. Tom Mooney

Lot #307 is a `66 Wildcat convertible. The pics are not the greatest but it sure looks like it has a Gran Sport emblem in the grille. If so, that`s a rather rare Buick. Anyone close who can inspect it? Tom Mooney

Sounds great Paul. I have been driving an `82 T-Type weather permitting for several years now...nice driver...but I`m ready for a change. Maybe an early 4 speed Wildcat? Know anyone who has one? He, he, he...have fun! Tom Mooney

That tire chart doesn`t seem right to me. If I am reading it correctly it indicates a `64 7.60 tire is larger than a `65 8.45? And a `64 7.60 tire is equivalent to a 225 75? Hmmm... Tom Mooney

Hi Todd, Yes, two different rim widths are possible on your `64. I would bet you have the larger 6 inch rims though. The 235`s are on the big side in terms of stock type tires. The 225`s are an ideal size as they are slightly larger than the original 8:45`s if memory serves me correctly. Tom Mooney

Pete, why dont you post a part number and manufacturer for the tank filter for the benefit of those who would like to replace theirs? Personally, I`m not particular about the presence of a tank filter or not but most folks are and might find the info helpful, Tom Mooney

Hi Arron, Shoot me your email address and I scan scan and email the info you need, Tom Mooney

The price to recore radiators has risen dramatically in the last few years. Perhaps it has to do with a rise in price of the core itself? I have been quoted prices in the $400.00 range by the shops in my area which are reasonable shops and I have been using for years. If you check online, like Ebay, you may find a much more reasonable, but non-stock appearing, alternative in aluminum If the core itself is not rotten but just plugged it is possible to remove one of the tanks, rod out the tubes and re-assemble the radiator. Believe it or not, I had this done 3 years ago to an ORIGINAL `65 radiator and it has held up well, no more overheating, no leaks. I didn`t expect to drive the car across country, although I would, and wanted to retain as many of the original components as possible. Most rad shops will shy away from this but most , if they have workers that can actually solder, will do it without any guarantee. Regarding concerns about the 5 impeller pump and flow...the rad will not be the choking point, the thermostat will...unless you plan to remove it. Even then, I dont see it as an issue, Tom Mooney

The sending unit needs to see a good ground to work properly. The Rivs dont have a dedicated ground wire, some cars do. In the Riv the ground is completed thru the fuel tank mounting straps. Cant hurt to have an extra ground wire though. Your description of having ground at the bumper but not at the frame does not make sense as the bumper is grounded thru its mounting to the frame. So, something is wrong there. If you have ground at the bumper you should have ground on the frame. Maybe you failed to achieve a proper ground on the frame thru a bad troubleshooting connection? This circuit is a low voltage circuit, not full system/battery voltage. Some cheap test lights do not have a low enough threshold voltage level to light the bulb when checking low voltage circuits. Best to use a DVOM. Your dim light is encouraging in that it indicates that you have the proper reduced voltage at the sender from the gauge. So, your circuit is good thru the gauge back to the sender. That doesnt mean the gauge is good, just that there are no opens or shorts in the circuit. Cant recall if the Riv gauge is wired to go full when the sender wire is grounded or empty, both scenarios are possible, but that doesn`t matter at this point. To check the gauge, WITH THE KEY ON, ground the sender wire. The gauge should either go full or empty. no in between. Conversely, when the wire is removed from ground, with the key still on, the gauge should peg in the opposite direction. If your gauge does not respond like that the gauge is most likely bad. Be sure you have a good ground when testing! If the gauge checks OK there are a few ways to check the sender. You can use an ohmeter to check resistance or simply connect it to the sender wire, be sure it is properly grounded and manipulate the float while checking the gauge. I prefer the ohm meter method because it isolates the sending unit Connect one probe to the terminal where the sender wire connects. Connect the other probe to the sending unit body or top plate. With the float in the highest position you should show a resistance level. As the float is dropped the resistance level should become greater until it tops out at full float drop. Be careful as you manipulate the float arm as the contact arm may have intermittent contact with the grid if you torque the arm from side to side in any way, they are sensitive! Common problems are a broken strap (you`ll see it) and the "grid" contained in the unit under the stamped steel cover can varnish over interfering with contact. The system is quite simple when one is familiar with the basics. This is a situation where good common sense and success go hand in hand. Be sure you have good troubleshooting connections! Hope this helps, Tom Mooney

Those appear to be `64 belt buckles. Look factory to me. With age the belt material becomes stiff and takes a "set" because the adjustment hasn`t been moved, maybe for 20 years or better. Try holding the belt material in one hand, keeping it flat, and pull on the buckle with a back and forth, twisting motion. Look at the angle where the belt weaves thru the buckle as a guide and the material will slowly work thru the buckle until it gets beyond the "set". From there it will prove less stubborn. Tom Mooney

Buick definitely used a dark stain on the originals...very dark. The original color can be seen in areas which have not been exposed to uv light, like behind the plastic washer which insulates the vent crank handle from contacting the wood. And behind the "R" emblem when removed. The original panels look smooth, no raised grain. Tom

This is a great post! I recently checked out a Cars console kit is another member`s car (saw the receipt) and didn`t care for it. The veneer was grayish in color and not my impression of close to the original. I did not see the door panels, just the console kit. It did appear to be cut well, though. I have a Clark`s kit I hope to install and just double checked it for this post. I love the "hue" of the stain and to look at the panels they look impressive. But if originality is a priority they are easy to pick off. The texture of the grain is prominent (my impression of the originals is there is such a heavy clear coat the grain is a smooth surface) and the black pin stripe appears to have been placed after finishing. I could be wrong but you can catch the pin stripe with your fingernail. Not so with the originals. The originals look embossed instead of applied if that makes sense. I also have a kit that was done years ago by Jim Osborne (?) Dont think he does them anymore but I could be wrong. The hue and pinstripe/embossing are right on. But the texture of the grain is visible. If this kit was clear coated to turn that texture smoother it would be right on in my opinion. Is that possible woodworkers? If I was in the "business" I would reproduce a kit that was absolutely correct and charge whatever was necessary to make it worth while (hint, HINT!) Tom Mooney

The engine is a `65 for the reasons stated. Buick didnt place model numbers in the engine stamping in `65. As I stated, Buick changed the numeric block for Riviera and Wildcat after the first 20 or so cars to a 9000000 block in the Flint plant only. Owner states production code of LT. That`s a very obvious sign the engine is `65 vintage. Who knows who put it together? Who cares...maybe they just were not smart enough to do it right. Or maybe the adapter bushing for Nail to Dynaflow isn`t such a new revelation. I did several of these conversions 25 years ago with a simple bushing my dad and I turned on his Southbend lathe. Been a long time. I dont remember much of the details. Sometimes "internet revelation" is a little older than the internet itself. Tom Mooney

Hi Todd, Great to see your excursion worked out well. I probably have 10 sets of wires. These things seemed to grow out of the woodwork as I acquired cars and parts over the years. If you will be in the Chicago area anytime soon I`m sure we can put together a set to suite your condition requirements and budget. Otherwise, you should have no problem finding a suitable set via Ebay, this forum, etc...same cover for `64 thru `67, two blade spinner, silver "R" on a black background. PM me if you`ll be in the area, good luck with your new baby! Tom Mooney

Your engine is from a 1965. The "5" at the start is the year. The "H" after it simply means it was a Flint built car. Buick started using the 900,000 serial number sequence on the Riviera and Wildcat in 1965-Flint plant only. The production code to the left (looking to the rear of the car) on the same surface as the number you already found is probably an LT, LW or LX. The "L" is `65 specific. Check for the VIN on the passenger`s side top frame rail adjacent to the transmission. If your VIN tag is missing why not have CA issue a replacement tag for future purposes? How are you going to sell the car if the future owner needs to crawl all over and under the car to check the VIN? Or worse yet, what if there is an issue involving law enforcement? Like your car is stolen, recovered, but a VIN tag is nowhere to be found? Tom Mooney

The `64 in AZ was featured in the Riview. Not sure about the exact issue but I recall it was sometime around the ROA annual meet in Flagstaff. If the car has changed hands since, the article may contain valuable info which is lost between owners. Tom Mooney P.S. For me, finding the "right" car is about condition, provenance and color. Everything beyond that is just an exercise in OCD...at least that`s what my doctor says.

The heater core and evaporator core are part of the same system but you can disable the heater core and still maintain the AC Tom Mooney

My reference was in large part aimed at those folks who want to fit the later model Buick chrome wheels onto the earlier cars or any of the aftermarket wheels which are close in diameter...but the caution is relevant no matter what wheel one is considering. By the way.... "I'd suggest running a small spacer, say 0.25in, to push the tires out away from the frame." Wont a smaller,thinner spacer bring the tires CLOSER to the frame??? Tom Mooney

Backspacing has been discussed and is critical because the wrong backspace will forces the wheel to contact the fins on the brake drum before seating on the axle. This situation creates the false impression the wheel is properly seated and can create a condition where the lugs will loosen. Tom Mooney

Not an issue on the Rochester 4GC as it has a cast iron base as opposed to the Carter which has an aluminum base. You`re good to go.. Tom Mooney

Check power AT SOCKET. Check ground AT SOCKET. You are losing power or ground....or you have one or two bad bulbs. Dont snicker.....there is some real garbage on the market, even from well known brand names. Tom Mooney

Surprised it didn`t bring more but hard to judge the car given the pics provided. I wouldn`t draw any conclusions regarding the non-GS cars. The muscle car aspect of the GS model draws much more attention and a significantly different buyer. Best to compare apples to apples when making value judgements, Tom Mooney

I have the same question as Jim. I have been told a cross reference exists but is generally not available????????????????????????????????? Tom Mooney