1965rivgs

No vent windows period on the Rivs from `66 and up...you are correct, power vents on the Canadian built Wildcats only, not the U.S. versions....I`m currently installing power windows and vents from a Canadian parts car on my `66 Wcat driver...who would order a convert with crank windows!? Ugh... Another "interesting" fact regarding Canadian built Buicks...the Canada Salesman`s Manuals identifies the "Super Wildcat" as the SINGLE 4 bbl 425 unlike the U.S. versions which use the term to refer to the DUAL QUAD 425. Go figure.. Tom Mooney

Checked the `65 Buick parts book...the big cars and Riviera used different power vent window gears....time to call your machinist buddy!! Tom Mooney

Hi Rick, Your motor is a `66 and later version which is quite different than the `63-`65 Riv motor. I assumed a `65 big car would use the same motor as the Riv but in hindsight the `65 Riv was based on the earlier models so Buick may have used different vent motors for other models. Do you have a `65 Buick parts book? Do you have the right motor for your `65 big car? Tom Mooney

Hi Patrick, I`d also like one...any left? Tom Mooney

I have 4 NOS `64 Wildcat chrome wheel center caps. I`d like to see $400 for the set. Tom Mooney

Hi Rick, Are you sure they wont fit???? I`ve put the hydroelectric gears in `65 vintage vent motors quite a few times??? Tom Mooney

Everyone has different priorities and a different perspective. I feel mine have evolved over a few decades from one end of the spectrum to the other so I`d like to think I can understand what drives most old car enthusiasts. When I first started collecting I wanted to get intimately involved in every detail and refurbish everything no matter what the cost! I could spend an entire weekend just cleaning/polishing! Now, I hesitate to become over invested in any one car because I want to have funds available for the next "find"..I tend to "store" cars rather than "restore"...and I despise spending my time cleaning and polishing when I could be driving or sorting out some mechanical gaffe or exploring an original detail that peaks my curiosity...I have done a complete "180" over the course of three decades. Time and experience = introspection tends to do that in everyone...but I remember what, when and why I did the things I did. Boy, would I like to take back some of the "improvements" I made to some nice original old cars over the years! Bottom line is "different strokes for different folks"...what a cool hobby filled with interesting people..and cars! Tom Mooney

Hi Tom, Appears to be a well kept original car but with substantial miles. I did not read the entire listing but at that mileage I would pay close attention to the engine/trans..so a sight unseen purchase might be undesirable. The chrome wheels are not original and are in poor condition so count on finding replacements as you go thru the car. It may just be reflection of the trees in the paint but the paint on the horizontal surfaces (hood, trunk) looks thin to me. You did notice the dents in the rear panel, right? If you find complete paint and bodywork is in order that is a game changer financially. Did you notice the seam seperating on the upper left driver`s seat cover? Very typical but add a couple hundred bucks to your planned investment. The steering wheel, or at least the horn bar, has been changed and is not original. Hmmm... I believe this car is equipped with the dealer installed engine dress-up kit. The air cleaner is definitely original `65 hardware. That`s pretty unusual. Picking on the car a little...just some observations. I`d love to own the car, as I stated it appears to be a well kept original. From my perspective this car is screeming for a black vinyl top but I realize most would probably not agree. What one is willing to pay is too subjective a question for me to comment on. Good luck if you become the new owner! Cool car..... Tom Mooney

Hi Tony, Very interesting car and very typical of an accessorized `70`s cruiser right down to the window decals. Judging by some of the little things I see, like the emblem placement, what appears to be the addition of the power vents (notice the patching of the original vent crank hole), and some other items which are deviations from original, like the engine color and the accent colors in the interior, the basic car seems to be heavily personalized. But if you dont care about originality then no matter. The extras become a bonus. Send a pic of the Fisher Body plate and check the VIN and engine markings including the trans code and it will be easy to tell what the car started as when Buick originally built it. Who knows, perhaps you have one of the rare Super Wildcat only `65`s or a very rare `66 complete dual quad engine??? If the white custom interior is original to the car and not been transplanted that alone is very unusual. The detective work will be fun! Let me know if I can help, have fun, Tom Mooney

I would be interested in the armrest chrome trim pieces if they are not pitted at all and the chrome is not heavily scratched. Thanks, Tom Mooney

Depending on the state of tune and condition of your engine you should see about 20 inches. If you feel the engine is not running properly work that problem out first, then tackle the vacuum issue. You may find these two issues are tied together. When a carb sits for an extended period of time and the fuel evaporates from the carb the accelerator pump diaphram can dry out resulting in hard cold starting and a bog upon acceleration from an idle speed. Sometimes the accel pump will return to life, at least to a somewhat acceptable level for cruising, after some operating time. Sometimes, no dice. This is exactly the type of driveability issue I was referring to. But this would not be an issue I would consider a priority if I was having a brake problem... The sequence of attack is the same for any old car revival no matter what the make/model...first, make it run. If the engine condition makes continuing a worthwhile investment of time/money... Second, make it stop. At this point you will have a running/driving car that will hold your interest and fuel your enthusiasm/ambition. This step also affords one the opportunity to evaluate the rest of the drivetrain and decide if one would like to turn the engagement into a marriage. Third, get involved in the details while you continue to drive and enjoy the experience. At this point one will have a thorough understanding of the condition of major components and which areas will require rebuilding/investment. If, by this time, you are convinced "`till death due us part" take the car completely apart and start the process all over again! Have fun! Tom Mooney P.S. It is highly advisable to stop after step three unless your car is a collectible "heavy hitter"! At least that is what my bookkeeper and I have learned...

There will be a considerably volume of coolant left in the block unless you also drain the block. You will find the block plugs on the left and right lower block just behind the motor mounts. No special tools; they should be hex head plugs unless someone has substituted non original hardware. Tom Mooney

I called to buy the car 4 weeks ago and the seller told me a sale was pending. I asked he call me if the sale fell thru and I never heard from him. ??? Tom Mooney

Squeeze closed the rubber vacuum line which feeds the booster with a needle nosed pliers while the engine is running. If this changes the way the engine is running you have a vacuum leak. This may explain your engine running and power brake problem. In regard to the absence of power brakes pull the check valve out of the housing to see if you have FULL engine vacuum on the booster side of the check valve. If not, check for full vacuum on the engine side of the check valve by removing the rubber vacuum line from the check valve. Check for a collapsed rubber vacuum line or check if the carb mounting gasket has deformed and is partially or completely blocking the vacuum passage in the base of the carb. The booster needs to see FULL manifold vacuum to function properly. Unless you are convinced the carb needs rebuilding put some running time on the car while you sort out other problems. Sometimes carb driveability issues will sort themselves out after a few tankfuls of gas; especially on a car that has been idle for an extended period of time. Tom Mooney

The center link and the idler arm are probably wiped out...the last item you should go after is the steering box. They never "go out of adjustment" unless the miles are very high. Even then, they are worn out and need to be rebuilt, not simply adjusted. Tom Mooney

Your `63 should have a vacuum check valve at the intake manifold. If it is inop add another inline valve and your problem should go away. Tom Mooney.

Troubleshoot your problem by clamping off the rubber line then try starting after sitting overnight. If you suspect the fuel is siphoning away the clamp will not allow this to happen and will keep fuel available for starting. Tom Mooney

Hi Ron, The 3:23 gear is a nice gear for these cars. This ratio provides a little extra quickness compared to the standard 3:07 with acceptable manners and fuel mileage at highway speeds. Keep in mind you can use the same 3:23 ring and pinion with the carrier from a 3:07 posi. This involves a pro to do things right, and you will be tampering with the original wear pattern on the 3:23 gears, but I have done this swap a few times with very acceptable results. If you want to install a 3:23 posi with minimal fuss look for a posi from a `63 and simply change the yokes. Good luck, Tom Mooney

The motors are press riveted together so I dismantled them by grinding flush the rivets and seperating the motor housings with a few light taps from a chisel. I probably could have cleaned the internals up and reassembled the motors with replacement fasteners but I already had the new motors. The cost of the new motors was so low compared to what I expected I was pleased with the opportunity to replace the old with new. It should also be noted there is a plastic gear in the housing which showed some wear on the teeth so replacing the old motor seemed like cheap insurance. Have fun, Tom Mooney

Hi Jason, I recently replaced both the front door motors on my `82. For several years they were occasionally refusing to respond, sometimes just one, sometimes both and sometimes I could go for a few months with no problem so I just lived with it the first few seasons I used it. But recently I decided to troubleshoot the problem and was very surprised at what I found; also cant believe this has not been an issue for other owners of this generation. It should be noted I did not look for related period service bulletins. Upon removing and dismantling the motors I found the brushes and commutator completely buggered up with what appeared to be old grease. The grease was creating compromised contact between the brushes and commutator and causing the motors to operate intermittently. The car in question was undercoated with a product that I am unfamiliar with, not a tar but like a viscous varnish, and I initially thought perhaps this material made its way into both motors. Upon further inspection it became obvious the motors were assembled at Delco containing this grease. There was ALOT of it looking like someone greased a Zerk fitting on the window motor! Good news is the motors are available from Dorman and are very inexpensive. I believe they were about $25 apiece. Have fun, Tom Mooney

I`m taking a pass on this very solid and original Riviera. Good luck with your sale Eric! Tom Mooney

Hi Doug, Your link is not working for me? The originals were a one piece design. The aftermarket kits and even the Buick kits after a certain date are the two piece design pictured at the top in your first picture. Someone had replaced your bushings in the past, Tom Mooney

Yes, it is factory. Used to obtain proper ride height. If you are replacing springs you will most likely not need it but dont dispose of it until you are satisfied the ride height is the same left to right. Tom Mooney

Hi Mitch, Can you post a pic of the embossed VIN number you found on a `63? Was it the whole VIN or just the 5 digit model number? Thanks, Tom Mooney

Next up please.. Tom