1965rivgs

Parts car

This type of freeze cracking is very common on the Nailheads and is one of the issues I look for when considering buying one. I have had a crack like this repaired many years ago. There was/is ? a shop in Chicago that peens soft steel into the crack and seals it. This was done while the engine was still in the car and took 2 hours on the lift. The charge was $150 but that was probably 2 decades ago. I was very skeptical but decided to give it a try because the engine had been freshened up and was a number matching GS, ran great! The repair held up and stayed absolutely dry without any sealer as I drove the car thru summer and cool fall conditions for the next year. I was truly amazed. But if you think about it, this is not a stressed area of the block which only needs to hold 15 pounds of coolant pressure in the worst case scenario. If I had to contemplate such a repair at this point, I would do the same thing but add the block filler that the high perf guys are using so coolant would not be exposed to the inside area of the crack. Good luck! Tom Mooney

I mentioned values in post #9. Thought this was a pretty straight forward question and answer???? I always preferred the `65 model and was convinced it represented the styling pinnacle for the Riviera...until, after 2 decades of devotion to the `65 model I had the opportunity to study the `65 and `66 models, side by side, while having dinner at one of the annual meets. It struck me that the `66 design appears so much cleaner, almost as if mechanical engineering forced no changes to the intended design by the styling dept. No bulky stainless trim on the A pillars, no vent windows and frames, just pure style...so I made up my mind I would find the most collectible `66, a factory dual quad car. I spotted the right car in California but by the time I responded to the ad it had been sold. Three years later the car surfaced in a parking garage 15 miles from my home...nice car. So I currently own both a `65 and `66. Each have their advantages but the market values are pretty well defined. It is obvious the `65 GS models are the choice of collectors..but a super dandy `63 in the right colors and with the right equipment is no slouch! Happy New Year to all, Tom Mooney

`65 is not the only year for the hideaways which is a styling feature, whether clamshell or not, draws me to many models including Fords and Chryslers. But the answer to this is a no-brainer...look at the market values. Merry Christmas to all, Tom Mooney

Were the originals multi-piece frames? Dont think the first gens were... Tom Mooney

Great eye Al. Buick issued two `63`s for press review before the production cars were available. The antenna placement on those cars is unique but still on the passenger side. I`m surprised no one noticed the outside rearview mirror. I think Mitch may have explained these quirks. This does not look like an early car, as in possible prototype, so it is most probably a plain jane that has been added on to. BTW, what does the "XP" notation stand for in your avatar? I`m sure I should probably know the answer to this... Tom Mooney

The printed circuit boards in the first gen cars get chewed up, break or burn out occasionally. I have sold a few over the years but certainly not a high demand item. On the other hand, the few I have seen go thru Ebay are, in my opinion, very inexpensive. It`s one of those items that doesn`t go bad often but when you need one you REALLY need one. The circuits can be repaired by soldering a length of wire to bridge a burned out section. I performed a similar repair on the printed circuit board in our dishwasher 15 years ago and it is still going strong, used daily. I`m sure my wife would like to strangle me for that repair..but that pales in comparison to our GE side by side. It has a diagnostic connector under the doors in the front which enables me to troubleshoot it in a matter of minutes without any disassembly. Parts are readily available. The frig is 23 years old and shows no sign of giving up anytime soon...I`m sure my wife will bury me in it...or an old Buick! Tom Mooney

Hi Ed, As stated I am in need of an `86 wheelcover with hardware. If you have a set I dont want you to break it up, I`ll pick one up on Ebay or at a swap. The one I would like to replace is badly dented but it is there so I would hate for you to break up a set just so I can replace one. The piece which holds the license lamp which I need is the driver`s side, I`m sure they are different left and right. If you have it that would be great but dont go to any great trouble, it`s Christmas and this is just a beater, I can wait. Thanks, Tom Mooney P.S. Yes, on the coach lights I currently have nothing. Something that I can send to Jason to get working again would be great.

Hi Ed, Sorry for the delayed response but UPS has been keeping me busy, `tis the season. Thanks for the reply and your generous offer but after taking a good look at the wheelcovers I think I have `86 wheelcovers on my `85. I`m rather surprised as it is a very original car, basically purchased thru a scrap metal trader, from the original owners widow, 66K original miles. Maybe someone stole the originals and these are replacements? Or did late `85`s get `86 wheelcovers? In any event they are much different than the `85`s. I called Bobby Ward regarding the fillers. He carries the ABS replacements but a full set is more $$$ than I payed for the car!! So I`m looking into more economical options...as I stated, I`m not particular about fit I just need something to fill the empty space and I`ll probably paint them with a rattle can! This car has undercarriage corrosion issues and can never be more than a driver, unless I replaced the frame and that wont happen. Currently doing all the metal brake lines to the rear and replacing the muffler, eliminating the resonator with a straight pipe, someone else already eliminated the cat. Just trying to make a cosmetically tolerable, functioning car out of this "gem". Couple of other parts I need are the coach lamps, a tail light lens and the piece which holds the license plate light in the rear, mine is cracked. If anyone has these items and would like to sell them please let me know, thanks, Tom Mooney

Hi All, Looking for bumper fillers for an `85 I just rescued from the crusher. If you have a set which did not fit well enough for your showcar they should be just fine for me. I just want something to replace what is currently there...nothing! Thanks, Tom Mooney

Hi All, Just picked up an `85 that was heading to the scrap yard if I didn`t buy it, leather wrapped sport wheel and all. I`ve decided to drive it as a winter car while I work the bugs out of it, only 66K original miles but it is UGLY! There currently are no bumper fillers on the car and I`d like to keep overall cost as low as possible. Does anyone have a set of fillers they didn`t use, possibly because they didn`t fit properly? Doesn`t matter to me as this will not be a showcar, I just need something to make this beast look OK for the neighbors! :eek: Also need a wire wheel hubcap. Please let me know if you can help, thanks, Tom Mooney

Ed is correct. You will need to change the `63 yoke for the `64. Be careful when you run up the nut, not too tight, not too loose. There is a crush collar on the pinion and when you are tightening the nut you are putting preload on the bearing...not too tight, not too loose... Tom Mooney

It is not surprising someone would add the GS emblems in spite of the fact the LW equipped car is more rare. It is simply because, in spite of the relative production numbers, the GS is more desirable and hence, more valuable. Apparently, Buick buyers thought so in `65 too. I have encountered a few LX only equipped cars, which are rarer still, which have been converted to GS cars. I love them all, Tom Mooney

Just a note about some of the comments... The GS package did NOT include the H2 handling package. The H2 option was a seperate option from the GS option. So, not all GS cars necessarily were equipped with the H2 option. I have owned quite a few GS cars without the H2 option. I have the numbers but off hand I would say my experience has been about 50/50. The H2 option came with different springs, shocks, track bar bushings and a quicker steering box..too quick, in my opinion. Makes the car "twitchy" going down the road, especially at high speeds. Also, it is possible to find a legitimate, original GS with a rear gear ratio which is not 3:42. I owned one with a 3:23 that I am convinced was original. Buick printed a GS specific chart which notes the availability of optional ratios for the GS equipped cars and called the 3:23 a "turnpike" gear. The latest point is a good example of being careful with absolute terms like "never".."all"...etc. For instance, we all know that ALL `64 Rivieras were produced with the 425 engine, right? ..Wrong! Buick produced 275 low compression single 4 bbl `64 Rivs for export. So, it is possible to find an original numbers matching `64 Riv which is factory equipped with a 401. Same goes for `66 Tom Mooney

If your `64 has the original locks and ignition there should be ONE key for everything. This was a change/feature Buick advertised in the `64 literature. It only lasted one year as the `65`s went back to two keys. Tom Mooney

If you have had other `60`s Buicks and have left over keys try them. There were not that many combos. I have about 30 left over keys I keep on a large ring and often have had luck doing this. It`s a long shot but a thought which does not occur to most, Tom Mooney P.S. Your `64 should be a one key system from the factory if the locks or ignition switch has not been changed.

Hi Brian, Disconnect the negative cable and connect a 12 volt test light between the battery and the disconnected cable. If the light is on there is a current drain. Be sure you do not have radio memory or some other accessory which would provide an acceptable but constant drain. For instance, if the clock is working. Disconnect such items While watching the test light remove the fuses one by one. If the light goes out you will have narrowed down the circuit which is providing the drain. If you pull all the fuses and still have a light you may have a short in the circuits which are always hot like the alternator, starter, ignition switch. Hope this helps, Tom Mooney

Done...have Roz mention the ROA! Tom Mooney

Fat, Swedish chicks??? No such thing...or is there? Has McDonalds saturated Scandinavia? What`s the world coming to!? Tom Mooney

The 4 prong relay is still available from Delco part #1365166 The short # is 15-8172. This is the same relay as the high blower relay on the pass side fender well. Probably be much less expensive than from Cars, better quality too. The 3 prong relay will need to be secured from Cars, etc as this relay has been generally very hard to find for years. If you dont want to spend the money for the 3 prong you can modify the system to eliminate it. Just be sure the limit switches are adjusted properly. Tom Mooney

Dark Green `65 Riv...I think it is a GS...or at least has GS emblems The car has been thru Ebay several times. I would describe its condition as typical "urban assault vehicle". Tom Mooney

The Nailhead does not like high RPM. Usually the piston pin gets ripped out of the piston skirt and wallops a hole in the block or takes out the central oil galley which runs front to back thru the center of the block. I have seen many of these. It is foolish to run the rpm up on this motor because it stops making power in the upper RPM ranges because of the heads...they dont breathe well, at least not in stock form. Tom Mooney

I`m speculating the change occurred over the Christmas break. Can any `63 owners help with this research so we can give Jim yet another indice to track on his long anticipated research project? Tom Mooney

Comparing a Buick Riviera, the top of the line of a auto maker which attracts older, conservative, value oriented consumers, and the typical `60`s muscle car which was relatively inexpensive and marketed by a division with a performance reputation, or a sports car like the Corvette, is really comparing apples and oranges. The typical Buick Riviera buyer was older and more conservative than the muscle car or Corvette buyers. The Rivs were no doubt kept better, driven more conservatively, recognized when new as destined to be classic cars and just too damn expensive to be thrashed to parts and pieces. Besides, it is a heavy car and not your typical candidate for drag race enthusiasts. My experience has been that the majority of real GS cars still retain their original drivetrains. It is true that when the Nailhead sees any appreciable rpm above redline it self destructs but any large displacement `60`s V-8 is tired by 100K. We short tripped them more, no fuel injection, blah, blah, blah.. When given a choice it is always desireable in a collector car to retain the original drivetrain, or any original components for that matter, because that is an indication that the car was not abused, may have relatively low miles or was perhaps owned by few owners. But as we have seen in the muscle car market having documentation is nearly as good, in terms of value, as having matching numbers. The numbers matching aspect was huge for awhile but that seems to have tapered off. I think as Buick Rivieras go we are privileged to have a better chance to find a numbers matching car. There seem to be quite a few "hodge podge" specimens surfacing lately. Buyer beware, Tom Mooney

Exterior color code is designated by two characters...so, CC denotes Arctic white upper and lower body. A factory vinyl top car is designated by a "2" which is "black vinyl top". So, a White car with a black vinyl top should have C2 as the upper and lower body code on the Fisher Body plate. One of my first Rivs had this color combo (black over silver)... that was 30 years ago, but I still like it...nice contrast, especially when it sits low and shiney! Tom Mooney