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CheezeMan

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About CheezeMan

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  • Birthday 06/26/1965

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  1. I use K&N HP 2003 on mine... yes a little pricey and prob quality-wise similar to WIX. Just avoid FRAM with whatever you choose.
  2. I snugged up my shifter linkage with a cheap grommet assortment kit you can prob get anywhere. Found what I needed and it is working so much better now. Before either Park or Reverse wouldn't engage. Now, all quadrants work as they should. Of course had to adjust the shifter rod connection. Do so from Park, according to the manual. In my case, it was 125-Piece RAMPRO #2390. UPC 815518023904. You can search for that UPC number and find it.
  3. Friends, My speedometer seems to stop working... runs smoothly for a while and then drops to 0 while I am moving (any speed). Sometimes the next day, it works for a mile or 2 and then stops again. I have replaced the cable and put in a new driven gear (19 tooth). So, when it works, it is really smooth The gear came from james kehr and is one of those Chinese made ones. Anyone have a good experience with those? Anyway, I am thinking that the teeth are not meshing like they should. Can anyone provide me details on the driver gear specs? I wonder if that ha
  4. There are several Dynaflow videos on YouTube where fellow Buick enthusiast "Mudbone" rebuilt his '55 dynaflow. Search for 1955 Buick Dynaflow. They are great to watch. He did a wonderful job at documenting the process and rebuild.
  5. Awesome! I've seen this process done before on Wheeler Dealers (Mike Brewer and Edd China). Just replace the panels that need replacing, and paint to color match. Put some high quality leather conditioner on all of it, and it becomes new again. This video below is similar. I couldn't find the exact one I was thinking of.
  6. You may also find a place that can refurbish the original part. Some of those gauge and clock guys will restore the face and number plates by repainting/silkscreening/etc them. I think you just have to google that. I can't say these guys will do it, but a few I would ask. http://www.american-classic.com/ http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/ https://www.clocksandgauges.com/ http://www.clockwks.com/
  7. Hi Bill, There were many details on this build and some processes that I probably had to make up as I went along. Not sure if I can recall of them. The door "pan" or what Buick calls the inner door panel, was not re-painted, I had it powder coated. I suck at painting. Needed pro help there. Taking lots of photos along the way was key. I have over 580... When I laid out all of the parts for one door, oh my! My dad basically said "I hope you remember where all those go!" I replaced all felts and rubber materials, gaskets etc. Some I had to cut/fabricate myself.
  8. Ed, I found a local welder who really knows his stuff. He is amazing with pot metal, and very reasonable. I think he only charged me $20. Once I got it welded back together, I was able to save the original rivet (pic #1) and reuse it to put it back together. To do this, I drilled a hole into the shaft of the rivet, and threaded it (pic #2). Then cut and shaved a bolt to the exact size I needed (pic #3 & #4) From there, it was re-assembled (pic #5). I used some blue thread-locker on the bolt so it won't come back off. I think after I assembled it, rep
  9. Adam, I had my '63 AM radio redone by an old radio guy from Farmington Hills area of Detroit. He removed all the old stuff and replaced with modern solid state electronics, which also "upgraded" the AM to AM/FM, MP3 4-way stereo (front/back) and sub-woofer connectors. He also upgraded my speaker (the only one in the car) to have stereo in the stock location. However, it is bone stock on the outside. All of the controls and push buttons work as before. Someone could stare at it all day and not realize it was a fully modern radio. Still looks and functions the same as original.
  10. Long story short... I finally decided to investigate that little annoying rattle in the passenger door. Found the window arm was broken. Just because I can't let an opportunity slip by, I decided to refurbish both doors on my '63, complete with new carpet on the interior trim panel. Every piece and part was touched and refurbished. The long story is that this took all winter. I'll let the pictures tell the story.
  11. Hi Tom, I have those. I think I shared them with Jim originally. None of these have any date codes on them, but assuming FB89 is correct, the FB25 & FB43 were on or before 07B.
  12. I found a tag that does have a date code of 07B for FB89. However the "font" of the date code is a little smaller than normal. Hopefully that is factory stamped that way. We know that Silver Arrow I was modified from FB43. I am not sure if they had "pilot" runs or not. I wouldn't think that pilots were sold, however in the '60s we can't really know for sure what they did with their early test builds. So, presuming the 07B is authentic, then the first 200 were built in July & August (which I would call pilots).
  13. Hello Frank, According to the 1963 Parts Master Catalog, this is the switch for a 1963 Riviera: Group 4.054 Neutral Safety and Back-up Switch GM 1178137 I think I found that listing you are asking about. The picture appears to be correct to me (assuming that is the real pic of the item). The write-up states it is for the '63 Riv. A searchable PDF copy of the entire 1963 Master Parts Catalog is available from Jim Cannon. I believe he only charges are very reasonable amount ($15-- I think is still the price). If you are an ROA member, you can find Jim's contact information in the Rivi
  14. You can could use a vacuum pump at the slave side to draw fresh fluid down. This way you wouldn't have to press the brake pedal. Makes a good one-man bleader system. Several types available. This is one example. http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-brake-bleeder.html?fee=7&fep=49482&SRCCODE=GA220010&adpos=1o8&creative=83580269820&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CKysmteF9soCFQ6LaQod_3gH3g
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