D-a-n-i-e-l

OK so I am in the middle of plumbing my latest and last swap in with the F40 tranny. My question is how important is PS cooling and what are thoughts on using the transmission cooler to cool the PS fluid? This would clean up the front of the car a bit and I think would look better for presentation purposes. Oh and just to reiterate I do not need the tranny cooler as I no longer have a automatic tranny.

Yes you can pull it from the top. Much easier if this is a garage swap. Just ensure to take out the radiator first. Also you will have to swap over all the mounts, they all bolt up. http://forums.aaca.org/f116/series-one-swap-240868.html This should give you a good start. Couple notes: If you want to use the tranny you will have to use the ecm as a piggyback or rewire and us it on its own. Other option (may be easy or a little more work but would work and look much better) Use a 91 ecm and rewire what ever needs to be rewired at the ecm connections. You will need the driver side axle off a 91 Reatta as they are different lengths and either modify or replace the passenger transmission mount bracket. If you have the aluminium transmission bracket spend some time finding a steel one as I have seen three of the aluminum brackets snap.

Is the cdm (radio brain) unplugged? Sound as if it is, or the communication (e&c) wire is open, final option bad cdm. They are pretty easy to get a bold of. Forgot one other option. Power to the radio both acc and battery.

Yes easier but much more trouble to drive around town and not nearly as safe.

Open up the center console and un-clip the cable on the right of the shifter (as you are looking down facing the front of the car). This is what locks the shifter out. The there is not a need to tow or depend on having some one shifting so you can drive. Also what if you had to pee or use reverse? Un clip the cable and save some time and money.

Sounds right. Specifically the key assembly. Mine did the same thing a while ago. Word of advise, if it is, get a quality set. As the cheap one I bought lasted six months and then I found myself doing the job again.

I have a working one that I will trade you as long as yours still receives a signal from the crt. Basically it has to be recognized and try to take commands. Price shipping labels and your old player for area code 96789. Also I would like the CRT but not a requirement. PM me for the whole address.

I love this forum. Merry Christmas to each and every one of you. Now can I get some snow for Hawaii? Man I miss snow.

It has been slow going with life getting in the way, but I have got the engine in now to customization of all the connections to each system. Also I know I had said that I would not revisit the subject but I am including a picture of the Fiero engine bushings installed. The center washerer were paint scrapers but do fit well once past the openings. Also I will have all my old ones up for grabs after I finish this swap.

My fuel gauge has never read right for me so I grabbed one up. Let u know if it works correctly. On a side note any one want a fuel pump as I cannot use the one that comes with this.

Pull your alternator and have it tested. I have had a few rebuilts end up bad. Also clean the ground to the engine and check for bad connection to the alternator (by multimeter while shaking pulling and pushing on all connections.

Have you tried cleaning the sensor and ring? As far as the difference in the sensor design, it is just two ways of getting the job done. I prefer the covered sensor as I worry about the tip getting hit on the other, but I am still using them on my current project.

The hubs are the same 89-91 and the abs ring has the same number of teeth. This I know for sure. the sensor pics I have seen seem to be identical except for the connector. The picture are not verified by a trusted source, just sales pics.

Ok after looking at a few pics and other things I see the only difference is the connector. So making the earlier ones work should be easy enough. if they are just copper wire splice on the original connector. If they are coaxial cable go to Radio Shack buy a coaxial end crimp it on. Then buy a adapter to change the connection to a two wire out and splice on the old end. After either fix heat shrink the whole thing to ensure a water tight splice. Does not seem like a huge deal to me as there are parts that can be adapted to work. If I was going to have the part made I would have it made in a way that either end could be clipped into place this would not only fix the 91 issue but would ensure that it does not become an issue for the 88-90.

Can some one tell me the difference in the different year abs sensors?

Just curious did you try to clean it and the teeth it reads. I have fixed the issue on a couple cars just by making sure there wasn't any build up on them.

They are still metal through out the 3800 line of engines. They just have a thick covering that looks like plastic. Some one correct me if I am wrong but even the 2005 engine I am getting ready to use has the same covered metal design.

They are so common and cheap that I would just find a good used set and clean them up. This is goes for keeping them stock or repainting.

If you have to use an eccentric bolt the your car has many other issues. Unless you are trying to do some ridiculous things to your alignment and in that case I will remind you that these are front wheel drive cars. One other point is that the eccentric bolts are, in my opinion, weaker do to smaller diameter.

TCC operation? If I remember right this is what locks in the overdrive (4th). Some one correct me if I am going in the wrong direction. Also I believe it can be check in the diagnostic mode.

could be an intake gasket, they have been around four revisions for coolant leak issues. As far as the head gaskets I have not ran in to many issues with them on even borderline poorly maintained cars.

Any one have experience with welding stainless exhaust? Also even a longer shot, anyone know of a place near Honolulu that regularly does stainless exhaust? I guess it is not normal here to use stainless. I would have thought it would be almost common practice as everything rusts here in a very short time.

It was parted from Michigan. I may be able to get the vin but no promises as it is a yard and I am not sure if they will go that far. On the other hand they seem to like me and keep several Reatti in the yard. SS was not issued in 88? Correct? Either way I know they said they had one. The mix up on my harness could have been a lazy employee or a number of other things. Also I had told them I did not care what year it came out of.

Exactly what I needed. Also just as I suspected, the harness I am using is from an 88. No matter already fixed the wiring.

Does any one have a copy of the 88 C216 connector? It should be around the 202 area of the FSM. Any and all help is appreciated.