D-a-n-i-e-l

Thanks for the response, but I am talking about the interior in the 88-89.

I would like to Keep the factory look in my modified Reatta. Anyone know a source or how to recreate the anodized aluminium our cars have? Daniel

So four months past the date I thought it would be in and running but it is now in and running. I guess that is one of the perks of being on an island. I still have a lot of finish work, testing and adjusting to do, but I have driven it threw three gears with no issues. More to come on this soon.

As long as you are not adding g a sub the set up should sound good. If you add a sub you will want a external bass nob. As far as changing the brain, there are cdms that have low level outputs that eliminate the need to use speaker level converters.

No the linkage does not, but there is an other cable that does. It goes from the right side of the shifter to the ignition switch on top of the steering column. It is smaller than the shift cable which goes directly to the transmission.

sorry I do not feel like reading all the posts and know that the members here have most likely covered the basics. So I did search for chain and timing. You see where this is going..... Have you looked at your timing chain? (no matter how unlikely) It is the only thing that may not have been mentions by the members here and would definitively cause a crank no start.

The time and patience sit takes to update to a supercharged series three with a six speed.

Agreed. There is a check valve in the fuel pump if it is bad it can let the fuel flow back into the tank. So you will be looking not only for good pressure but a bleeding of pressure after the key is off. I usually let it sit for ten minutes or so. If the pressure drops down to nothing then the valve is bad. As far as replacing the pump if the valve is bad, I would not worry about it. Just let the key sit for a couple seconds in the run position before cranking. As no one likes dropping the tank.

Is it when the car is warm? Cold? Is it only after the car has been sitting? Or running?

According to TONKINONLINE they are.

I still have a tuned chip for an 89. If you get an engine and install it I would give it up for little more than shipping. So all it would cost is around $45 for a adapter plus shipping. THERE IS NO NEED TO CHANGE ECM TO USE A SC ENGINE. Sorry everyone seems to thing you have to change the ecm and it is getting annoying. It is only programming.

a 91-95 supercharged complete engine is almost a bolt in. Just have to have the ecm reprogrammed. If you want to keep the original block you could rebuild a NA using the crank from the supercharged engine, but then you would have to track down all the brackets, accessories and a harmonic balancer.

These should be a goo option while keeping the stock 15" rims. Also the rotors have the right bolt pattern I am not sure about the center opening but the cars that these fit would point to it being large enough. I think someone had done this a long time ago, but I could not find the post. They also would be easy to fine in yards to do the real tests. You get the dual pistons and keep the stack rims. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Caliper-Reman-A-1-Friction-Choice-Caliper-w-Bracket-Front-Left-/350872671745?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51b1a41601&vxp=mtr

It would only be for the CRT. The overlay would be the original. I am not trying to have this be an end all for bringing the car into this century. With an aux video in a person could pretty much make the screen do what ever they want it to do. The screen would be green and black when the video from the car is showing and full color when the aux is selected. As far as getting something to replace the touch screen; I have not found anyone willing to take on that project for a reasonable price.

I am working with a company to make a direct bolt in replacement for our CRTs. I want to know how many would be interested in one. They will be a color match and will also support a aux full color input, cost will stay the same with or with out the aux in. These will be a little pricey but I am shooting for 250-300 dollars; dependent upon quantity I have produced. The price is a little up there but they should last much longer than the CRT.

I do. That is when I want it. I placed a fuse in the wiring so for everyday driving I have abs and when I want to pus the limits of the car I can pull it and have complete control over the brakes. and abs works as normal. For days when I feel like pushing the limits of the car I pull it and have complete control of the brakes.

I am not 100% on why on the pedal, it has been a long time sense I did my swap. I just remember having to weld a plate on to my pedal to push one of the switches. I can take a look tomorrow to see why exactly. The ABS brain would be if you wanted to keep an abs system in the car (as I did). Part numbers are all from a 91 Riviera. I pulled all my parts from a donor car so I never looked up part numbers. I would suggest finding on unless you are very good at bending brake lines, as I doubt that the lines are available new.

with abs: (not sure how different the non abs is) pedal or weld a plat on to the existing pedal power-booster master cylinder lines to abs valve abs valve assembly two rear lines with there proportioning valves (located in the rear) Rear lines should be shortened about six inches abs electronic brain (located in the trunk) a little rewiring All would work without the brain just would not have abs. Non-abs: (from what I can remember) pedal or weld a plat on to the existing pedal power-booster master cylinder front proportioning valve rear lines (not sure is there are one or two)

They will send the 115 I have ordered them from auto zone, rock auto, and oriely

The larger disk, bigger pad, and additional pistons provide; faster cooling, more evenly distribution of pressure, and the faster stopping the when wider tires are used. Also ceramic pads mean less brake dust, better friction during high heat, and longer life.

2000 Camaro are still going strong for me. They defiantly improved my stopping. One other note they uses the same rotor as the Aurora brakes, but you have an extra piston in the caliper.

This is a curious issue. If it is for sure oil then my first guess would have to be some one used oil in the transmission and a bad radiator. Other than that the chances of oil getting into the coolant is almost nil. The three options would be cracked block or head, bad intake gasket, or a bad head gasket. All three usually manifest as coolant in the oil not oil in coolant. First check your oil and tranny fluid. Then, if all are fine, run a compression test on all cylinders to include leak down this is the easiest way to see if it is an engine issue.

Is there any clunking one acceleration or braking? Also you are running get the original break system correct?

Driver side granny mount, front lower hydraulic mount, passenger granny mount, dog bone on top front, and then the all elusive vibration dampener near the pulleys. The last of each in my opinion is the least needed as I have not seen a difference with or without it.

Can't help you on that question, but if you are swapping out seats I could use the tilt mechanism out of one of them. Pm me if you do scwap out seats. One idea for you is to just swap the covers, it would not be too hard to do and you could keep your 16 way seat.